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Harvest Ridge Theater (A CJ Project) - Page 54

post #1591 of 1625
Thread Starter 
A few days ago, my youngest said almost in passing "there's a warning on the projector about the lamp." That surely got my attention! I found out that I had hit the 1800 hour mark and that I was receiving a warning to replace the lamp. I've ordered another one from ProVantage and will post an update when it arrives!
post #1592 of 1625
in my experience you will fall in love with your projector again.
post #1593 of 1625
Thread Starter 
I'm going to watch some stuff this weekend and make sure that I burn the brightness into my brain. I want to see the difference that everyone speaks of when they replace the bulbs in their 4000.
post #1594 of 1625
Quote:
Originally Posted by carboranadum View Post

Yes there is. I totally forgot to post my experience.

A friend of mine stopped by with a two wheeler to help move the best into place. We removed the screen, then moved the speakers around a bit to make room for the sub. We put the sub on the dolly and wheeled it into the room. A short lift onto the top of the stage, then another lift into it's final home. It wasn't nearly as hard as I had thought it would be. Here's a photo of the sub in place.



I still need to cover it with OC703 and black muslin, then connect it all. I've been very busy, but I know what I need to do to get it connected and working. I'm going to try to get it operational this weekend.

CJ

HOLY MOTHER! You may blow that screen right off the wall!

Bud
post #1595 of 1625
My experience is that you will notice only a slight difference and will not notice that after a few movies. Hope you have better results.
post #1596 of 1625
Thread Starter 
OK, so I've finally found some free time to get the sub hooked up. We removed the screen and I began removing the old sub and worked to get the new sub connected. BUT, I found one fatal flaw in my building logic...the input connectors! When I built the sub, I used speaker connectors. Now, there's nothing wrong with this, but I didn't think about how I was going to connect the wiring. I ran two runs of RG-6 quad shield to the front wall when I built the room. The RG-6 is much more resistant to interference, so I thought I was good to go. The old sub had an "F" connector input, so all was good. The inputs on the sub are speaker wire inputs.




I spent a bit of time at Radio Shack this afternoon trying to figure out how to make this conversion. I don't think that I have a good solution, so let me open it up...how do you convert between RG-6 and speaker wire inputs? I could run new speaker wire to the sub, but I'd like to avoid that if there's another solution.

....sigh. Why does this have to be so hard? mad.gif
post #1597 of 1625
I've seen speaker level to line level converters for about $40, but not the other way around since relatively high power throughput could be involved. Without looking through your thread, I would assume you have a dedicated subwoofer amplifier. You may end up moving your subwoofer amp to where your line level outputs are to go into the amp and then short runs of speaker wire to your sub.
post #1598 of 1625
Thread Starter 
I ended up running two new runs of speaker wires from the equipment room to the screen wall. I also got the front of the sub covered with OC703, black cloth, and got it wired. Tomorrow I'll have to terminate the wires in the equipment room, but I'll need to get a termination plate. I'm getting close to the first fire of the sub!

CJ
Edited by carboranadum - 2/24/13 at 4:30pm
post #1599 of 1625
Thread Starter 
When I finished up last night I had run two new runs of speaker wire to the sub, wired, it, covered the front of the sub in OC703, then covered it with black fabric. I then put the screen back up. Here are some photos:







Tonight I'll add binding posts to the wiring area behind the rack and should get the sub wired up!
post #1600 of 1625
Can't wait to hear the results. I mean, LITERALLY....HEAR...THE.....RESULTS.
post #1601 of 1625
Quote:
Originally Posted by tlogan6797 View Post

Can't wait to hear the results. I mean, LITERALLY....HEAR...THE.....RESULTS.

Heck NO - I want to feel the results !!!
post #1602 of 1625
CJ, that looks like it could hurt somebody....
post #1603 of 1625
Sooooo...is it working????
post #1604 of 1625
That's what I'm wondering Ben! For something so exciting, you sure are dragging buddy! eek.gif
post #1605 of 1625
Thread Starter 
Darn delays, cables and things. Got a shipment with cabling and a wall plate or two from Amazon this evening. I'm heading down to install the wiring and hopefully get the wall plates installed and the sub working.
post #1606 of 1625
Thread Starter 
OK, so I got the wiring done this evening and got the speaker connections made:

Here's the before:


Here's the after:


I got it all wired up, but I think I have it wrong. I'll post details in the next response.
post #1607 of 1625
Thread Starter 
OK, so I have the Danley DTS-10 sub, and I've gotten new speaker wires run from behind teh screen wall to the equipment room. In the chain, I am connecting everything as follows:

Denon AVR3311-CI - RCA Sub out to
Behringer Feedback Destroyer Pro Input 1 (via RCA to XLR cable) & Output 1 (XLR) to Behringer EuroPower 4000 Amp Input 1 (via XLR cable).

Behringer amp is set up in stereo bridge mode.

The Left channel output is sent to the sub driver 1 (via speaker connection)
The right channel output is sent to the sub driver 2 (via speaker connection)

When I power the stack up and get it working, the sound is present, but not too powerful. I think that one of the drivers is not working, because it is not getting any power from the amp. I don't think that I have it wired or configured properly.

Is this connection correct, and if not, what do I need to change?
Edited by carboranadum - 2/27/13 at 8:05pm
post #1608 of 1625
Quote:
Originally Posted by carboranadum View Post

When I power the stack up and get it working, the sound is present, but not too powerful. I think that one of the drivers is not working, because it is not getting any power from the amp. I don't think that I have it wired or configured properly. Is this connection correct, and if not, what do I need to change?

The Behringer is a commercial amplifier and is therefore expecting a 1.00 - 1.22 volt input (1.228 nominal) signal. The Denon receiver (as does all other consumer equipment) provides a much lesser voltage output for the signal, typically 0.316 nominal volts. Wikipedia does a good job of explaining it HERE: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Line_level

There are little devices like this one: http://www.daleproaudio.com/p-10241-rolls-mx51-mini-mix-ii-4-channel-mixer.aspx?gclid=CJO61beR2LUCFQUGnQodgQsAog that will allow you to adjust the signal level output.

I learned this little nugget of info when I dumped my standard Buttkicker amp for a high-powered commercial unit and immediately ran into the same issue with the signal being weak.

I hope this helps.
post #1609 of 1625
CJ,

It took me two days to finish reading your build thread. Congrats on completing a great theater and the bar. Looks Rocking!

And the floor plan looked so familiar to me, is this a Richmond Model by Toll Brothers?

Thanks,
Anu
post #1610 of 1625
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by anubis05 View Post

CJ,

It took me two days to finish reading your build thread. Congrats on completing a great theater and the bar. Looks Rocking!

And the floor plan looked so familiar to me, is this a Richmond Model by Toll Brothers?

Thanks,
Anu


Thanks! It is the Richmond Model. I put the theater under the dining room and parlor (the room beside the front door). MMMKAM has the same house in South Riding and he put his in the same side, but flipped the screen wall.

Where are you located?
post #1611 of 1625
CJ,

So I was right with my guess of Richmond.
I am planning my media room at the same location, it's a bit width challenged but at least has no windows. I am in Ashburn and still in process of learning from all the builds to get some ideas for my space.
I am thinking of doing InWalls to save some space.
post #1612 of 1625
Thread Starter 
Look at the plan that I did. Also, look up the build for user MMMKAM. Both will give you some ideas. If I were doing my build again, I would move the lolly column under the kitchen and use the entire 15' width for the build. I'd also go most of the 30' length.
post #1613 of 1625
Quote:
Originally Posted by anubis05 View Post

CJ,

So I was right with my guess of Richmond.
I am planning my media room at the same location, it's a bit width challenged but at least has no windows. I am in Ashburn and still in process of learning from all the builds to get some ideas for my space.
I am thinking of doing InWalls to save some space.

Welcome .. there are several AVS'ers in Ashburn / Loudoun County as I'm sure you have discovered. Myself, Morph1c, Cathan, BritInVA, bmackrell, BIGmouthinDC (close by) ..probably more.

If you are considering inwalls ... (IMO) Triad should be on your short list.
post #1614 of 1625
CJ, I would try to allocate more space for the theater but may not have much choice (read WAF) with everything that we need to do in our tiny basement space.

Pauleyc, thanks for the warm welcome, I will probably do a Beer and Pizza evening to invite all AVS'ers for suggestions! And yes, Triad is on my list along with RBH, Sunfire and Episode speakers.
post #1615 of 1625
Thread Starter 
If you are finishing the entire basement, you have a whole household's worth of space (about 1700 SF if memory serves).

Get the little lady in line! smile.gif Seriously, my wife wondered why we needed so much space for the theater, but once it was built and operational, she can't imagine living without it.

Find a local theater to visit and visit with the owner. There are a lot of variables and different decisions to make. If you go into it with some understanding of the different trade-offs, you'll be much happier with the result and the build will go much quicker. For instance, height of the ceiling may cause you to choose a scope screen. Length of the room will cause you to think about the number of rows and the number of seats. Do you want to close it off and make it a dedicated space or do you want it more open? Will you entertain large groups frequently enough that an open layout (with it's attending audio issues) be worth it or are you a purist?

CJ
post #1616 of 1625
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by pauleyc View Post

Welcome .. there are several AVS'ers in Ashburn / Loudoun County as I'm sure you have discovered. Myself, Morph1c, Cathan, BritInVA, bmackrell, BIGmouthinDC (close by) ..probably more.

WAY MORE...WAY, WAY MORE. I've visited a lot of the builders in the area and there are some really, really nice spaces in NoVA. biggrin.gif
post #1617 of 1625
My Danley's ran from the voltage of my Denon receiver before I changed it out. So I wouldn't count on that being the issue. The dip switches on the Behringer are very easy to get wrong. In fact, I remember a bunch of folks saying that theirs was even labeled wrong! Ivan (at Danley) confirmed that you can't hurt anything by moving those dip switches around and trying things. I did it that way and stumbled into the right settings.
post #1618 of 1625
Quote:
Originally Posted by carboranadum View Post

WAY MORE...WAY, WAY MORE. I've visited a lot of the builders in the area and there are some really, really nice spaces in NoVA. biggrin.gif

Absolutely, I was just quoting the ones I know of in Ashburn wink.gif I threw in BIGmouthinDC b/c he's pretty close and an icon around here wink.gif
post #1619 of 1625
Thread Starter 
OK, gotcha. CATHAN is not in Ashburn, (or Loudoun counry) though.
Edited by carboranadum - 2/28/13 at 7:12pm
post #1620 of 1625
Quote:
Originally Posted by TMcG View Post

The Behringer is a commercial amplifier and is therefore expecting a 1.00 - 1.22 volt input (1.228 nominal) signal. The Denon receiver (as does all other consumer equipment) provides a much lesser voltage output for the signal, typically 0.316 nominal volts. Wikipedia does a good job of explaining it HERE: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Line_level

There are little devices like this one: http://www.daleproaudio.com/p-10241-rolls-mx51-mini-mix-ii-4-channel-mixer.aspx?gclid=CJO61beR2LUCFQUGnQodgQsAog that will allow you to adjust the signal level output.

I learned this little nugget of info when I dumped my standard Buttkicker amp for a high-powered commercial unit and immediately ran into the same issue with the signal being weak.

I hope this helps.

Quote:
Originally Posted by tony123 View Post

My Danley's ran from the voltage of my Denon receiver before I changed it out. So I wouldn't count on that being the issue. The dip switches on the Behringer are very easy to get wrong. In fact, I remember a bunch of folks saying that theirs was even labeled wrong! Ivan (at Danley) confirmed that you can't hurt anything by moving those dip switches around and trying things. I did it that way and stumbled into the right settings.

Tony piqued my curiosity, so I referred back to the Behringer EP4000 specifications found in the owner's manual HERE. For the input sensitivity - in other words the voltage the EP4000 is expecting - the specification on page 12 shows the amplifier expects a +1.23V (+4 dBu) signal. Having an input receive a 0.316V input typical of all consumer products could definitely be one culprit.

But to Tony's point, on page 6 of the same manual there is a Configuration Switch (Mode Switch) legend - the low cut filter switches should be set to "OFF". These are switches 3 (for Channel 1) and 8 (for Channel 2).

If these dip switches don't solve your problem and you have confirmed that switches 4 and 5 are engaged for stereo mode and switches 6 and 7 have bridged mode turned OFF, then the only other thing to look at is the lower input voltage provided by your receiver for which you need and in-line device to adjust the voltage to the expected input levels for the Behringer EP4000.
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