Harvest Ridge Theater (A CJ Project) - Page 54

Yes there is. I totally forgot to post my experience.

A friend of mine stopped by with a two wheeler to help move the best into place. We removed the screen, then moved the speakers around a bit to make room for the sub. We put the sub on the dolly and wheeled it into the room. A short lift onto the top of the stage, then another lift into it's final home. It wasn't nearly as hard as I had thought it would be. Here's a photo of the sub in place.



I still need to cover it with OC703 and black muslin, then connect it all. I've been very busy, but I know what I need to do to get it connected and working. I'm going to try to get it operational this weekend.

CJ

A few days ago, my youngest said almost in passing "there's a warning on the projector about the lamp." That surely got my attention! I found out that I had hit the 1800 hour mark and that I was receiving a warning to replace the lamp. I've ordered another one from ProVantage and will post an update when it arrives!

I'm going to watch some stuff this weekend and make sure that I burn the brightness into my brain. I want to see the difference that everyone speaks of when they replace the bulbs in their 4000.

OK, so I've finally found some free time to get the sub hooked up. We removed the screen and I began removing the old sub and worked to get the new sub connected. BUT, I found one fatal flaw in my building logic...the input connectors! When I built the sub, I used speaker connectors. Now, there's nothing wrong with this, but I didn't think about how I was going to connect the wiring. I ran two runs of RG-6 quad shield to the front wall when I built the room. The RG-6 is much more resistant to interference, so I thought I was good to go. The old sub had an "F" connector input, so all was good. The inputs on the sub are speaker wire inputs.




I spent a bit of time at Radio Shack this afternoon trying to figure out how to make this conversion. I don't think that I have a good solution, so let me open it up...how do you convert between RG-6 and speaker wire inputs? I could run new speaker wire to the sub, but I'd like to avoid that if there's another solution.

....sigh. Why does this have to be so hard?

I ended up running two new runs of speaker wires from the equipment room to the screen wall. I also got the front of the sub covered with OC703, black cloth, and got it wired. Tomorrow I'll have to terminate the wires in the equipment room, but I'll need to get a termination plate. I'm getting close to the first fire of the sub!

CJ
Edited by carboranadum - 2/24/13 at 4:30pm

When I finished up last night I had run two new runs of speaker wire to the sub, wired, it, covered the front of the sub in OC703, then covered it with black fabric. I then put the screen back up. Here are some photos:







Tonight I'll add binding posts to the wiring area behind the rack and should get the sub wired up!

Darn delays, cables and things. Got a shipment with cabling and a wall plate or two from Amazon this evening. I'm heading down to install the wiring and hopefully get the wall plates installed and the sub working.

OK, so I got the wiring done this evening and got the speaker connections made:

Here's the before:


Here's the after:


I got it all wired up, but I think I have it wrong. I'll post details in the next response.

OK, so I have the Danley DTS-10 sub, and I've gotten new speaker wires run from behind teh screen wall to the equipment room. In the chain, I am connecting everything as follows:

Denon AVR3311-CI - RCA Sub out to
Behringer Feedback Destroyer Pro Input 1 (via RCA to XLR cable) & Output 1 (XLR) to Behringer EuroPower 4000 Amp Input 1 (via XLR cable).

Behringer amp is set up in stereo bridge mode.

The Left channel output is sent to the sub driver 1 (via speaker connection)
The right channel output is sent to the sub driver 2 (via speaker connection)

When I power the stack up and get it working, the sound is present, but not too powerful. I think that one of the drivers is not working, because it is not getting any power from the amp. I don't think that I have it wired or configured properly.

Is this connection correct, and if not, what do I need to change?
Edited by carboranadum - 2/27/13 at 8:05pm

Thanks! It is the Richmond Model. I put the theater under the dining room and parlor (the room beside the front door). MMMKAM has the same house in South Riding and he put his in the same side, but flipped the screen wall.

Where are you located?

Look at the plan that I did. Also, look up the build for user MMMKAM. Both will give you some ideas. If I were doing my build again, I would move the lolly column under the kitchen and use the entire 15' width for the build. I'd also go most of the 30' length.

If you are finishing the entire basement, you have a whole household's worth of space (about 1700 SF if memory serves).

Get the little lady in line! Seriously, my wife wondered why we needed so much space for the theater, but once it was built and operational, she can't imagine living without it.

Find a local theater to visit and visit with the owner. There are a lot of variables and different decisions to make. If you go into it with some understanding of the different trade-offs, you'll be much happier with the result and the build will go much quicker. For instance, height of the ceiling may cause you to choose a scope screen. Length of the room will cause you to think about the number of rows and the number of seats. Do you want to close it off and make it a dedicated space or do you want it more open? Will you entertain large groups frequently enough that an open layout (with it's attending audio issues) be worth it or are you a purist?

CJ

WAY MORE...WAY, WAY MORE. I've visited a lot of the builders in the area and there are some really, really nice spaces in NoVA.