After HVAC work was complete, we called the framing inspector for a courtesy walk through. I was concerned about the RSIC clips and the space between the top plate and the joists. If I needed to make modifications, I wanted to do so before I was too far along...
The inspector came out and spent about 10 minutes looking over my work. He asked lots of questions about the sound clips and the sound attenuation techniques. He said that the framing looked better than a lot of contractors he'd seen.
While he was poking around, he noticed that I had what looked like new HVAC work. He asked about my permit. I went upstairs and gathered all of the documentation that I had received from the city, and couldn't find an HVAC permit. He called the inspector that handles HVAC and asked him to stop by later in the day. He told me the sequences of the next few inspections and went on his way with a "good job".
The HVAC inspector (actually...he was the "mechanical/plumbing inspector" stopped by and looked the work over. He said it looked good, but that I needed a permit. He said not to worry...I could go to the city office and pick up one. I resolved to go there that afternoon.
While he was there, I asked lots of plumbing questions and received some great advice:
1. He originally inspected my house when it was built 2.5 years ago. Apparently, even inspectors can miss drain vent lines (that were supposed to have been installed in the basement bath rough in).
2. CPVC is used for fresh wawter in my town. PVC for waste.
3. 1/2" CPVC can support 3 water devices (?)
4. 3/4" CPVC can support many more.
5. Autobalancing shower valves (also called anti scald valves) are required in my town.
6. Studdor valves are A-OK when inspectors miss vent pipes that should have been installed.
After he left, I was off to the city office for another permit (the third so far). When I obtained the permits originally, I explained what I needed...framing, plumbing, electrical and that I'm adding HVAC registers, but I didn't receive a HVAC/Mechanical permit. After another $65.00 (minimum in my town), I had that fancy permit.
I went home and spent the next two weekends plumbing for the bath and thinking about how I was going to lay out the bar...
Bath photos:
Started in the water heater closet (adjacent to the bathroom and stoars up). I added two valves here so that I could turn off the water to the bath and bar if necessary.

Interestingly enough, you can find 3/4" CPVC valves at Lowe's and HD with red handles, but they don't stock them with blue handles too (hot = red, blue = cold).






The Studdor valve needs to be accessible. I placed it in the wall, but it will be accessible from under the stairs. The other side of the stairs is the unfinished storage room. The studs holding the stairs looked too much like loadbearing members, so I decided to go around with the pipe...it'll be in a chase in the closet (I may make a built in shoe rack or something similar inside the closet).
The entire finished thing:

Our problem with this is that we are planning a 42" x 60" shower, and the drain (installed by the builder) is in the front corner. I'm debating whether we should break into the floor and try to center it either on the 42" leg or the center of the entire shower. I'm going to have to think about this one for a while.
We looked at premade shower pans of that size and all I can say is WOW, are they expensive. Over $900 at Lowe's (special order, but a stock size)

Maybe I'll just build my own shower pan. I saw it done once on TOH... I would really love to give a jack hammer a try too -
