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Harvest Ridge Theater (A CJ Project) - Page 3

post #61 of 1625
Thread Starter 
In my last update post, I had completed wiring for the can lights in the remainder of the basement. Over the next three weeks (leading up to Christmas), we completed the wiring of the basement. We added a over 53 outlets, 29 switches, added four lights to the storage room, five sconce boxes in the theater, boxes for rope lighting in the trey ceiling, step lights, riser rope lighting, wiring for 5 cans to shine on the screen, 2 lights to show off the speakers behind the AT screen, marquis light, ticket booth light, and 10 new circuits. Unfortunately, I didn't take photos of the work. I don't know what I was thinking, but I didn't get photos. Sorry.

As we were finishing the electrical, we put the insulation back on the rear wall (walk out to outside). I did manage to take photos of this. You can see the boxes in some of these photos.







...more....
post #62 of 1625
Thread Starter 
...cont....

In the equipment room, I installed four separate electrical circuits. Three were install to power the equipment rack, and one for the remainder of the work room. Since I don't yet know what hardware I'll have in this room, I over engineered it ;-)

Work room electrical behind the future home of the equipment rack:


If you look closely, each outlet is listed with the circuit number (number contained in a circle). The box on the right (circuit "11") is a "dead outlet" This will not be wored to power. It's terminus is in the theater on the back wall where the projector will be. We're going to install an outlet on each end. The projector will be plugged into one end. The other end will have a male to male jumper cable that will be plugged into a power conditioner/UPS. I figure this is sort of a poor man's Powerbridge. http://www.powerbridgesolution.com/a...tallation.html

The blue smurf tubes will go to the surround speakers (sides and rears). I may wire to 2 front presence speakers, but I'll feed them through a conduit to the front.

Here's how we terminated each of the new circuits:


We didn't connect them to the panel for safety's sake. We weren't sure whether the inspector would want to see the breakers installed or not, so we erred on the side of caution.

All of the electrical boxes in the theater are Carlon adjustable electrical boxes. We'll be installing two layers of 5/8" drywall in this room, so the adjustment feature is critical. They were more expensive, but they'll be worth it in the end.



Here are some photos of the back of the theater.
Right side:


Back:



Left side:


You'll also notice that we've installed a 2" electrical conduit to the back of the theater leading from the equipment room to the location of the projector hush box. We used the gray electrical-type based on the recommendation of someone on this board. They said that the sweeps (elbows) will make it much easier to snake cables through. We're also going to install one to the front of the theater for front speaker wiring.

One of the soffits that traverses the theater was used as the central raceway for the new electrical circuits. The electrical panel is on one side of the theater and the equipment room is on the other. We found cool wire clips to secure these wires.



These are available at HD ($16.00 for a box of 20), but they sure saved a lot of space. They are made by Gardner Bender Electrical.


Here they are in action:


Next post will detail the inspections and how they turned out.

CJ
post #63 of 1625
CJ - where did you find the box into which your smurf tubes feed? I assume that it's not a regular outlet junction box.
post #64 of 1625
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cathan View Post

CJ - where did you find the box into which your smurf tubes feed? I assume that it's not a regular outlet junction box.

It is a regular box. I picked up the smurf tube push in connectors (they self lock when pushed into the right sized hole), then drilled a hole in the sides where I wanted the tubes to terminate.

One tip...when you drill the holes, don't try to drill through the reinforced spaces where the fixture screws go. Oh, and DO use something to clamp the box down. It does tend to wheel around in circles when the bit catches as it's nearly all the way through.



CJ
post #65 of 1625
Quote:
Originally Posted by carboranadum View Post

The box on the right (circuit "11") is a "dead outlet" This will not be wored to power. It's terminus is in the theater on the back wall where the projector will be. We're going to install an outlet on each end. The projector will be plugged into one end. The other end will have a male to male jumper cable that will be plugged into a power conditioner/UPS. I figure this is sort of a poor man's Powerbridge. http://www.powerbridgesolution.com/a...tallation.html

If I'm reading this right you definitly do not want to use a male to male cord. BIG safety risk if someone accidently touches the live end......and not to code.

Cheaper options are to use either a home made power bridge as described here

Or do what I did.

Both of these are to code (in my area at least)

Cheers,
Mark
post #66 of 1625
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by BritInVA View Post

If I'm reading this right you definitly do not want to use a male to male cord. BIG safety risk if someone accidently touches the live end......and not to code.

Both of these are to code (in my area at least)

Cheers,
Mark


I had to think about this for a bit. I see your point. I'll go the route of the home made power bridge connector.

Thanks for helping me see this...exposed connectors are bad. When it's said like that it really is a no brainer.

CJ
post #67 of 1625
Just buy a male inlet and you'll be all set. Mark's point about a male to male cord being a major hazard is very valid.

I ordered an inlet several months ago through Amazon: http://www.amazon.com/Leviton-Motor-.../dp/B00074USHY
It should work great.


post #68 of 1625
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cathan View Post

Just buy a male inlet and you'll be all set.

+1

I got the exact same inlet from a different online source. Works great!
post #69 of 1625
""The interior walls of the theater will be covered with two layers of 5/8" drywall with Green Glue between. The walls will also be insulated with R-13 insulation, leaving the 1.5" void between each wall. Again, this should significantly retard sound transmission. ""

Been there, done that. Sorry, but R-13 will have just about no help in reducing sound transmission. Mine was a Toll Brothers house too.

Speaking of Toll, a part of the back of your house is brick. Why is Toll putting vinyl siding over brick?

I also have to ask why you are doing a home theatre before you are doing a back deck? Why didn't Toll provide a back deck with the house? I can also see that you are also finding out that Toll is not a quality builder. I can't believe that Toll put a French door that opens into a support post then wanted to charge you $1800 to fix it to a slider! Why did you go to settlement with that situation? That was when you had leverage to get them to fix it at their cost.

And what is that white pillowing stuff you are attaching to the foundation walls? I'm worried about black mold forming on the rear side of that stuff.
post #70 of 1625
Quote:
Originally Posted by carboranadum View Post

The builder did not use 1/2" sheathing on the outside of the structure, nor did they use a vapor barrier. Their sheathing was an engineered material that was rather thin. I was told they it included an integrated vapor barrier.

It does, Toll uses this on all houses. It is strong stuff even though it is quite thin. You cannot punch your fist through it. Other homebuilders use this kind of sheathing too. Lennar is one.
post #71 of 1625
Quote:
Originally Posted by easycruise View Post


Been there, done that. Sorry, but R-13 will have just about no help in reducing sound transmission.

In and of itself no, you are right, R-13 doesn't block sound. But what it does is fill the void so you don't have hollow space creating an echo chamber. It's the DD+GG that is his chief sound isolation barrier. He's saying all of those build techniques put together ought to work. (And they will.)
post #72 of 1625
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by easycruise View Post

""The interior walls of the theater will be covered with two layers of 5/8" drywall with Green Glue between. The walls will also be insulated with R-13 insulation, leaving the 1.5" void between each wall. Again, this should significantly retard sound transmission. ""

Been there, done that. Sorry, but R-13 will have just about no help in reducing sound transmission. Mine was a Toll Brothers house too.

Easy: As Michael said, there area large variety of techniques that can be used to stop the transmission of sound through walls. I've chosen to use a number of different ones at the same time.

The dual layers of 5/8" drywall will add mass that will retard sound tranmission, particularly the low frequencies. GG will also help stop sound transmission.

The sound clips stop flanking noise, particularly up into the joists above (sort of building a room within a room.

The dual walls separated by an air cavity will create two independent obstacles for sound to penetrate. R-13 insulation will act to fill the void and stop resonations. It will also provide a bit of sound deadening. The air dap has some purpose...but it escapes me now. I think it has something to do with sounds ability to transfer through dissimilar marterials.


Quote:
Originally Posted by easycruise View Post

"Speaking of Toll, a part of the back of your house is brick. Why is Toll putting vinyl siding over brick?"

I think you're confused about the back. There's no brick on the back of the house. My plan is a walkout and as such, the foundation walls are cement on the sides and only a foot or two on the back. The foundation walls have a stamped brick pattern, so it's a bit confusing.


Quote:
Originally Posted by easycruise View Post

"I also have to ask why you are doing a home theatre before you are doing a back deck? Why didn't Toll provide a back deck with the house? "

...really? Seems a silly question to ask. It's currently a personal preference. When we were looking, very few builders provided decks, and when they did, they were absolute crap. I can do better, just not as quickly.

Quote:
Originally Posted by easycruise View Post

"I can also see that you are also finding out that Toll is not a quality builder. I can't believe that Toll put a French door that opens into a support post then wanted to charge you $1800 to fix it to a slider! Why did you go to settlement with that situation? That was when you had leverage to get them to fix it at their cost."

The french door was standard in their plan. We asked that we swap it out with a slider when we signed the initial purchase agreement, but Toll said they don't do sliders below grade. Seemed a little weird to us, but it wasn't a big deal, as we were planning to finish the basement ourselves after closing. I also looked at really good sliders at big blue, and I could do MUCH better than their upgraded model for $1800.

I'm really impressed with Toll's quality and designs. Every builder is going to have some issues, but I've been really impressed with the quality, service, and the entire experience. There are many builders that we looked at. None of them were in the same ballpark as Toll. The higher end ones were really light years ahead, but we weren't in that league.

CJ
post #73 of 1625
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by easycruise View Post

It does, Toll uses this on all houses. It is strong stuff even though it is quite thin. You cannot punch your fist through it. Other homebuilders use this kind of sheathing too. Lennar is one.

Easy:

...actually, no. They didn't use 1/2" sheathing in my neighborhood or any of the ones in NoVa that I looked at. They use something called Thermalply. This is quite thin, but they claimed it had the same insulation properties of 1/2 sheathing. They did not use a separate vapor barrier (they said the Thermalply was a vapor barrier as well).

Va code was changed in 2006 to require sheathing and vapor barrier for all houses started in 2006. Toll changed and began using 1/2" sheathing and tyvec for all of the houses in my neighborhood. The one behind me was the first delivered in 2006 and I watched them put sheathing and tyvec up.

From what I know about sound transmission, the sheer mass of 1/2" sheathing would be superior to the Thermalply. I can't tell any other difference. If I were building a custom house, it's tyvec and thick sheathing for me.

CJ
post #74 of 1625
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cathan View Post

It's the DD+GG that is his chief sound isolation barrier. He's saying all of those build techniques put together ought to work. (And they will.)

Michael:

Sure hope so. I would really like to be able to hear the difference...sort of a before vs. after deal. I really believe the test results, but I'd like to hear the results of each technique with my own ears.



CJ
post #75 of 1625
Quote:
Originally Posted by carboranadum View Post

...really? Seems a silly question to ask. It's currently a personal preference. When we were looking, very few builders provided decks, and when they did, they were absolute crap. I can do better, just not as quickly.

Why is that a silly question? Without a deck, how do you sit outside? How do you BBQ grill your food near the kitchen? And what can be crappy about decks? Pour the footers and put pressure treated beams with Trex decking. Sounds quite formulaic to me.


Quote:


The french door was standard in their plan. We asked that we swap it out with a slider when we signed the initial purchase agreement, but Toll said they don't do sliders below grade. Seemed a little weird to us, but it wasn't a big deal, as we were planning to finish the basement ourselves after closing. I also looked at really good sliders at big blue, and I could do MUCH better than their upgraded model for $1800.

What was below grade about the slider? At least have them move the support pole away from the door. What a dumb place for that pole. All my former neighbors agreed that Toll sucks. Maybe they cleaned up their act from the mid 90's. Hopefully you will be able to have a back deck. There was a class action lawsuit against Toll in one neighborhood where a number of the residents found out that they couldn't have a deck because the foundation was too close to the setback line.

I noticed that you said that Toll is using 2x8 for framing? You sure about that? Is that local code? Back in the mid 90's they were using 2x4, which was yet another item of complaint. You would slam an outside door and the whole house would shudder. Then another development near me sued Toll (early 90's) because they stripped off all the topsoil and sold it before they sold the houses. Owners were left with rocky soil that was low in nutrients. Toll didn't even fight it and settled. Your back lawn looks prretty good though. Maybe Toll really has cleaned up their act.

BTW, after checking, I see that the white pillowing stuff is that Mansville Blanket? Isn't it supposed to go down to the floor? In addition, I have finished a number of basements in our various houses, both pourd and block, and I'm surprised when I see numerous HT threads here where they didn't paint the foundation walls with waterproof paint such as Drylock. A water leak from hydrostatic pressure is a pain in the ass to fix AFTER the basement is finished. Even though you have a poured foundation, waterproof paint is always a good idea that is easy and cheap.
post #76 of 1625
Did a bit of checking. Seems Toll Brothers might not have cleaned up their act after all. Numerous negative comments after the article. Looks like their contract now says you can't sue, you have to go to arbritration. Some say that is a stacked deck.

http://tolltruth.blogspot.com/

http://housingpanic.blogspot.com/200...anti-toll.html
post #77 of 1625
easycruise - what exactly are you trying to accomplish? If this was my thread I'd be less then happy about someone coming in to disparage my home. Not only is way off-topic, it's also just not good form.
post #78 of 1625
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cathan View Post

easycruise - what exactly are you trying to accomplish? If this was my thread I'd be less then happy about someone coming in to disparage my home. Not only is way off-topic, it's also just not good form.

Agreed - it has NO place here.

Let's get back on track, please.


I love your attention to detail, planning, and quality of work. A lot of "professionally" done work does not come close to what you have already accomplished.
post #79 of 1625
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by easycruise View Post

Did a bit of checking. Seems Toll Brothers might not have cleaned up their act after all. Numerous negative comments after the article. Looks like their contract now says you can't sue, you have to go to arbritration. Some say that is a stacked deck.

http://tolltruth.blogspot.com/

http://housingpanic.blogspot.com/200...anti-toll.html


Easy:

We'll have to agree to disagree. There's folks that are unhappy and those that are happy. Please vote with your feet and avoid Toll for your future purchases. I'm in the camp of the happy Toll owners. If you really need to complain about Toll, please do so in one of the blogs that you referenced.

Complaints about builders is WAY off topic for this forum.

..now, back to the business of this forum.

CJ
post #80 of 1625
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Johnsteph10 View Post

I love your attention to detail, planning, and quality of work. A lot of "professionally" done work does not come close to what you have already accomplished.

Say..thanks for the note. Makes one blush...

post #81 of 1625
Quote:
Originally Posted by carboranadum View Post

very few builders provided decks, and when they did, they were absolute crap. I can do better, just not as quickly.

I know this is off topic, but I absolutely agree. The builder of my 3000 sq.ft. house built crappy decks, even though their homes are great. Like you, I opted to do the deck later, with my own contractor and did NOT use Trex (no offense to those who do). I opted for a different top of the line tongue and groove composite decking, railing, and lighting option as opposed to the kmart variety.

Now that is off my chest...

I'm excited to see more progress on your build. Do post more pics as they become available!
post #82 of 1625
Quote:
Originally Posted by carboranadum View Post

Easy:

We'll have to agree to disagree. There's folks that are unhappy and those that are happy. Please vote with your feet and avoid Toll for your future purchases. I'm in the camp of the happy Toll owners. If you really need to complain about Toll, please do so in one of the blogs that you referenced.

Complaints about builders is WAY off topic for this forum.

..now, back to the business of this forum.

CJ

You're right, I apologize. Me and my friends have had a terrible time with them in the past and I shouldn't have pontificated, but at least you could have answered some of my questions (such as 2x8 construction?, mansville blanket) ) instead of ignoring them. At any rate, I hope you don't mind me pointing out that you are supposed to get from Toll a small concrete slab outside your basement french door so that dirt (from hard rain) and grass clippings don't get thrown against the glass door. Maybe Toll overlooked this item and you should put it on your punch list. Hope this helps. Best regards. P.S. Since you put in the second basement door, maybe you can get two slabs? LOL! Maybe they won't know you did one yourself. It would actually give me a tiny bit of referred satisfaction if you talked them into it.
post #83 of 1625
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Audixium View Post

I know this is off topic, but I absolutely agree. The builder of my 3000 sq.ft. house built crappy decks, even though their homes are great. Like you, I opted to do the deck later, with my own contractor and did NOT use Trex (no offense to those who do). I opted for a different top of the line tongue and groove composite decking, railing, and lighting option as opposed to the kmart variety.

Now that is off my chest...

I'm excited to see more progress on your build. Do post more pics as they become available!

I know it's way in the future, but I've contracted a bit of a bug for woodworking. I'm really interested in building small furniture.

When we built the house, we figured that one upgrade project would be to add a large deck across the back of the house. We're thinking multi-level deal with built in seating and possibly support for a hot tub. We are also thinking of adding a screened in porch under the deck, since that space is usually wasted. That plan has turned into a small woodworking shop AND a screened in porch under the deck.

My deck will be nearly 10' above the grade, so we decided that the theater was first. I can always sit on deck chairs on the lawn until we get around to building a deck, but I can't watch a good movie on a huge screen without building out the theater.

I'm in LOVE with the composite decking material. Winchester is home to TREX HQ, and I've got a friend who is a VP there. I don't know if there is a deal [discount] in the works, but like I said, I really like the composite decking.

That will be next year's project...provided I ever get this one finished.

;-)
post #84 of 1625
Thread Starter 
Some will have noticed that I posted a new thread asking for assistance with my ceiling. I had a design that included a octagonal tray ceiling. I never really liked the design, but that story is included in the thread (linked below).

Here's a before and after photos:

Before:

Front screen wall


Rear wall



AFTER:

Front screen wall


Rear wall


Here's a link to the ceiling help thread: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=992661

Thank you to everyone that provided comments including Biggy, Todd, Michael (Cathan) and Scaesare.

CJ
post #85 of 1625
looks like you gained some height. Good for you!!
post #86 of 1625
Carb, nice build.
I really liked the octagonal ceiling, so I will need to go read up on your ceiling thread and see what the decision to change was. I will eventually have the same issues, where I have a beam and HV in the theater ceiling.

Keep the updates coming. I live vicariously through these threads since my brother-in-law is living in my unfinished basement, I am not able to do anything in the way of construction, just dreaming.

P.S. I know you never mentioned you graduation rank in the Loganized thread... I just get a kick out of people who go to a small school and brag about their rank. One friend always told be they graduated in the top 5 (of 5). They were also the prom queen (and only senior girl). So it was a bad joke, didn't mean to get off on a bad first impression.
post #87 of 1625
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chiahead View Post

Carb, nice build.
I really liked the octagonal ceiling, so I will need to go read up on your ceiling thread and see what the decision to change was. I will eventually have the same issues, where I have a beam and HV in the theater ceiling.

Keep the updates coming. I live vicariously through these threads since my brother-in-law is living in my unfinished basement, I am not able to do anything in the way of construction, just dreaming.

P.S. I know you never mentioned you graduation rank in the Loganized thread... I just get a kick out of people who go to a small school and brag about their rank. One friend always told be they graduated in the top 5 (of 5). They were also the prom queen (and only senior girl). So it was a bad joke, didn't mean to get off on a bad first impression.

No worries. It's hard to tell who's yanking the chain and who's being sincere. No worries.

I'm exceedingly proud of the fact that I was able to graduate and start a new life on the other side of the country...country that I'd never have seen otherwise. I have done well so far (knock on wood).

Made major progress on my build, and I think your note will be the catalyst to get me posting in my own thread again. Look for an update soon.

BTW: I graduated number 3. Number 2 went on to be a drug sales rep for a major pharmaceutical company, while number 1 is a teacher in a small state college in OK.

CJ
post #88 of 1625
CJ - The changes in ceiling structure looks great - you made a difficult but right choice in redoing. I liked the architectural detail the octagon gave but the new design does give a look of more height. The main thing is your happy with it.
post #89 of 1625
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by BritInVA View Post

CJ - The changes in ceiling structure looks great - you made a difficult but right choice in redoing. I liked the architectural detail the octagon gave but the new design does give a look of more height. The main thing is your happy with it.

Thanks, Mark.

This weekend, I was quite busy. I hired Bryan to do the room design and make a number of suggestions. I pulled down the side soffits this weekend so that I can drywall the ceiling and walls to create a soundproof envelope. It was hard to pull them down, but we decided that since we're going so far with soundproofing, it was worth the little extra time to pull them down in preparation for drywall in the theater.

Bryan also made a recommendation that we run the HVAC ducting through the new soffits that we'll install after the room envelope is in place. It's going to be really hard to pull down the ducts and redo them from outside the room.

More updates this evening.

CJ
post #90 of 1625
Looking good CJ. I know you must be chomping at the bit to get back at it, and I am looking forward to seeing the progress.
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