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Official Elemental Designs Subwoofer Thread - Page 504

post #15091 of 15422
Hmm, the amp is what smelled very strong of burnt electronics right at that coil, so I assumed it was the problem. Also, it was burnt through black on the back of the green board...

I have not removed the sub yet, but I'll try and get a multimeter. The amp is probably broken now after me taking it apart and tying to rebuild it. What is a good replacement woofer and amp combo for this box?

What is the displacement and tuning frequency of this box?

Thanks again,
Dan
post #15092 of 15422
Quote:
Originally Posted by yellow98stang View Post

The amp is probably broken now after me taking it apart and tying to rebuild it.

no matter what you did to the amp, it is fixable. you should see some of the stuff that has been here... most would have thrown it away, but it left here working. besides, i have extra amps laying around.
post #15093 of 15422
Quote:
Originally Posted by daveds50 View Post

no matter what you did to the amp, it is fixable. you should see some of the stuff that has been here... most would have thrown it away, but it left here working. besides, i have extra amps laying around.

Pm sent...
post #15094 of 15422
Quote:
Originally Posted by daveds50 View Post

.
yup... needs to be sent for repair.

Who, Where, How much you think?

Thanks
post #15095 of 15422
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cadrian View Post

Who, Where, How much you think?
Thanks

me, Las Vegas, $55 to $65 plus return shipping.

you probably missed my original post in this thread way back... but i was doing the repairs for eD last year, and am still doing repairs for many other car and home audio companies. full stock of parts, same day or next day turnaround.

i'll send you a PM.
post #15096 of 15422
wait... yours is a LT200, correct ? in that case it is $45 to $55. the LT500 is $55 to $65.
post #15097 of 15422
I got an A3-300 back in 2008. Never had a single problem, ever. I could crank this thing up and rumble the room. Just recently it has started shutting down. I don't know if it's shutting down because it's getting too much input signal or if it's the amp over-heating or something. Sometimes it stays on for hours, sometimes it shuts down every 5 minutes. I have tried:
Setting the switch from Auto to Always On
Pulled the AC power plug several times on it and my Onkyo 5.1
Switching the RCA cable that runs from the Onkyo to the Sub
Turning the output of the Onkyo down
Turning the "volume" knob on the sub down

I don't know what to do. I've got it turned down so low that I can barely hear it and it's still shutting down.
post #15098 of 15422
Quote:
Originally Posted by hammerdwn View Post

I got an A3-300 back in 2008. Never had a single problem, ever. I could crank this thing up and rumble the room. Just recently it has started shutting down. I don't know if it's shutting down because it's getting too much input signal or if it's the amp over-heating or something. Sometimes it stays on for hours, sometimes it shuts down every 5 minutes. I have tried:
Setting the switch from Auto to Always On
Pulled the AC power plug several times on it and my Onkyo 5.1
Switching the RCA cable that runs from the Onkyo to the Sub
Turning the output of the Onkyo down
Turning the "volume" knob on the sub down
I don't know what to do. I've got it turned down so low that I can barely hear it and it's still shutting down.

sounds like you possibly have a speaker going bad... check the speaker with a multimeter. you should see 4 to 5 ohms. check if the speaker moves scratchy, or smoothly when you lightly push on the cone.
you have an LT350 amp, correct ? i would not use the sub at all until you find the problem. you do not want to hurt that amp, as parts for them are getting rare. i still have a limited supply of some parts, but most are just not available anymore. later models used the LT300, which i have both amps and all the parts for.
post #15099 of 15422
Quote:
Originally Posted by daveds50 View Post

sounds like you possibly have a speaker going bad... check the speaker with a multimeter. you should see 4 to 5 ohms. check if the speaker moves scratchy, or smoothly when you lightly push on the cone.
you have an LT350 amp, correct ? i would not use the sub at all until you find the problem. you do not want to hurt that amp, as parts for them are getting rare. i still have a limited supply of some parts, but most are just not available anymore. later models used the LT300, which i have both amps and all the parts for.

Thanks. It does have the LT350. I will do those checks today after work.

Little more info-
When it shuts down the light just goes red, no yellow. If I'm close enough to the unit when it shuts down, I think I hear a tiny relay click, it's more of a tick. Then I can either unplug the AC power or turn the power switch off/on then it comes right back on to green.
When it does work, the audio that comes out sounds fine to my ears- no popping or loose or muddy or scratchy sounds.

Just in case, any suggestions on shopping for a compatible replacement speaker?
post #15100 of 15422
Quote:
Originally Posted by daveds50 View Post

...check the speaker with a multimeter. you should see 4 to 5 ohms. check if the speaker moves scratchy, or smoothly when you lightly push on the cone...

Speaker- reads 5.0 ohms.
Pushing on cone- not scratchy.
post #15101 of 15422
I have been away from this thread for quite some time, but am very saddened to see this mess. I bought... damn, cant even remember the model.. 18 inch sub, was very popular model. Anyways, I am buying a house that has an inlaw quarters above the garage and was going to be turning that into my dedicated home theater. I was going to get me another one of these subs to go along with the one I custom ordered from ED several years ago........ I have had ZERO problems with mine an dit has been a great sub.

Really disappointed to see what happened to Ed, and more importantly, to those that got screwed.
post #15102 of 15422
Well, it happened again. My A5-350 amp refuses to turn on. The last time this happened, eD was still in business and they fixed it. I obviously can't send it to them again. mad.gif

I am going to remove it to see if anything pops out at me (loose wire, burnt pieces) but I assume this is something a good audio repair shop can take care of if the problem isn't something I can fix.

Thoughts?
post #15103 of 15422
^^^
PM daveds50. He used to do repairs for eD and can likely fix your amp.
post #15104 of 15422
Quote:
Originally Posted by Yamaki View Post

Well, it happened again. My A5-350 amp refuses to turn on. The last time this happened, eD was still in business and they fixed it. I obviously can't send it to them again. mad.gif

well... if you have a time machine, set it back to 2011, and then send it in to eD, they will then send it to me. biggrin.gif unfortunately, my time machine is broken, so you would have to wait till now for me to receive it. on the bright side, i would send it to you direct after it was fixed. biggrin.gif at least that is how it worked between me and eD back in 2011.

can you tell that i am currently reading a science fiction novel ? cool.gif

thats an LT500 amp, right ?
post #15105 of 15422
I currently have a dead LT500 and one that hums. Since the last one also hummed before dying, it appears its on the way out too.

Sent from my DROID3 using Tapatalk 2
post #15106 of 15422
Quote:
Originally Posted by mfmathis75 View Post

I had the same problem with the LT 500 that Dave sent me to replace dead LT 550. I had to use AC cheater plug adapter ( 2 prong to 3 prong) to cure my hum. I think it' some kind of ground loop.

Quite funny, I was looking for picks of the old LT/550 amp to see if it had a 3 prong on it to see if that is why I am having a huming with the new LT500 amp and I ran into this post I previously posted through google. Pretty funny, anyways, I need to figure out this hum and I don't want to use a cheater 2 prong plug.
post #15107 of 15422
Quote:
Originally Posted by Face2 View Post

I currently have a dead LT500 and one that hums. Since the last one also hummed before dying, it appears its on the way out too.

send me the dead one. also, humming does not mean the other amp is about to die. it could be multiple things if the proper cord is being used.

Quote:
Originally Posted by maxpower2078 View Post

I need to figure out this hum and I don't want to use a cheater 2 prong plug.

like almost all amps, the LT500, LT300, and the LT200 need an earth ground, otherwise there will be noise... do not use a cheater plug... use the proper cord. all the cord is, is a standard computer power supply cord. most people with computers have a few laying around. but if not, they are around $3-$4 at your local Walmart or whatever.

http://www.walmart.com/catalog/product.do?product_id=9714618&findingMethod=rr

http://www.walmart.com/ip/Tripp-Lite-P006-004-GN-18AWG-Power-Cord-with-Green-Connectors-4/20574986
post #15108 of 15422
Quote:
Originally Posted by hammerdwn View Post

Speaker- reads 5.0 ohms.
Pushing on cone- not scratchy.

Thanks to Daveds50!

Replaced my LT350 that was shutting down with an LT500 in my A3-300 (130v.2 speaker). Working great!
Had to cut the hole in the box a little to accommodate. I'm not much of a woodworker. Using a jigsaw, some 1/4inch moulding, & some wood glue I was able to seal it up. Had to mount the amp sideways because no clearance to make a cut along the top/bottom edge. If I had a router and a rabbet bit, it would have been done "right". But nobody's gonna see that side of the box anyways.



Found the original website for my A3-300 from Dec 2008:
Elemental Designs A3-300 Wayback

Hoping to get another 4 years out of this box!

Anyone wants an old LT350 for parts?
post #15109 of 15422
i have a question for these of you you that had the amp go out, did u have your subs connected to a surge protector/monster clean power surge protector? or u just had it plugged into the wall?
post #15110 of 15422
I havent looked on here in a while, but it seems quite the mess has happened with ED! My kids just screwed up my LT300 on my A5-300 by breaking off the rca deep in the LFE/Mono input, so the amp wont do jack. Does Dave still repair these amps? I was also wondering if someone has a working LT350 they'd like to sell. I wouldnt mind sticking a bigger amp in there.
post #15111 of 15422
Quote:
Originally Posted by hammerdwn View Post

Thanks to Daveds50!
Replaced my LT350 that was shutting down with an LT500 in my A3-300 (130v.2 speaker). Working great!

no problem, enjoy ! however, like i mentioned before, use care... that extra 200 watts can be hazardous to the drivers health...
Quote:
Originally Posted by lamonsasa View Post

i have a question for these of you you that had the amp go out, did u have your subs connected to a surge protector/monster clean power surge protector? or u just had it plugged into the wall?

power strip, surge protector, should not be a problem. it is only a varistor to absorb large voltage spikes. in fact, could be a good thing.

some power conditioners could be a bad thing though. however, there is confusion caused by the manufacturers of what exactly a power conditioner is. ones that filter the AC power are not really needed though, as the amps already have that built in.

the most common reason these amps blow up, is not because of the amp. a very large percentage of the people sending me amps, have found that the drivers have cooked the voice coils. no amp can survive that. i just repaired a Behringer amp... and sent a cheap Harbor Freight multimeter with it with instructions of how to check a speaker. all signs of damage to that amp, said shorted voice coils. and no... a 9 volt battery test is almost useless, contrary to what people think.
post #15112 of 15422
Quote:
Originally Posted by sgresham View Post

I havent looked on here in a while, but it seems quite the mess has happened with ED! My kids just screwed up my LT300 on my A5-300 by breaking off the rca deep in the LFE/Mono input, so the amp wont do jack. Does Dave still repair these amps? I was also wondering if someone has a working LT350 they'd like to sell. I wouldnt mind sticking a bigger amp in there.

darn... i have no suggestions on how to get a broken RCA pin out... that RCA casing is totally sealed, so there is no pushing it out the back in this case. tiny dremel drill ? while i can replace the RCA set, there has to be a way for you to get it out... suggestions anyone ?

the LT350 and LT300 are the same wattage... contrary to how they were marketed. the 300 is actually a better and newer amp anyway. but you are correct... it is a bigger amp... ( physically ) biggrin.gif
post #15113 of 15422
Quote:
Originally Posted by daveds50 View Post

darn... i have no suggestions on how to get a broken RCA pin out... that RCA casing is totally sealed, so there is no pushing it out the back in this case. tiny dremel drill ? while i can replace the RCA set, there has to be a way for you to get it out... suggestions anyone ?
the LT350 and LT300 are the same wattage... contrary to how they were marketed. the 300 is actually a better and newer amp anyway. but you are correct... it is a bigger amp... ( physically ) biggrin.gif

Thanks for the quick response. I can try the dremel idea for sure, but the light on the amp is red as well. I don't remember, but isn't it green when working?
post #15114 of 15422
Wow thank you so much and disregard my past comment. Dremel worked! You are my hero right now Dave!
post #15115 of 15422
Quote:
Originally Posted by sgresham View Post

Wow thank you so much and disregard my past comment. Dremel worked! You are my hero right now Dave!

no problem ! just send large box of cash, or a new Corvette my way... biggrin.gif
post #15116 of 15422
Sigh... My A2 300 still sits there dead. Just don't know if it would be better to try and fix it or buy a BIC f12 or Dayton Audio sub1200...
post #15117 of 15422
Quote:
Originally Posted by Robert Clark View Post

Sigh... My A2 300 still sits there dead. Just don't know if it would be better to try and fix it or buy a BIC f12 or Dayton Audio sub1200...

depends... is the driver still good in the A2-300 ? got multimeter ?

is it the old amplifier with the big heat sink on the back ? or is it a LT200 with no heat sink ?

if both the speaker is bad, and the amp is the one with the heat sink, then i would start over with something else. the cost for a new speaker plus amp repair would not be cost effective.

dont know about the BIC, but the Dayton is a pretty low powered sub. a friend uses one for a computer sub and it works well, but for HT in anything but a tiny room, i cant see it making anyone happy that is used to the output of your sub you have now.
post #15118 of 15422
It says Lt200, but there is a sizable heat sink on back. I don't own a multimeter.

Anybody want a large plant holder? wink.gif
post #15119 of 15422
Quote:
Originally Posted by Robert Clark View Post

It says Lt200, but there is a sizable heat sink on back. I don't own a multimeter.
Anybody want a large plant holder? wink.gif

old style LT200. limited parts availability... some are available, but not all.

get a multimeter. everyone that is into audio should have one. cheap one on ebay around $4. cheap one at Walmart around $12.

if your speaker is good, it is worth saving. can fix amp, or replace for not much money. if it is bad, then shop for a whole new sub. you should measure around 4-5 ohms at the speaker wires going to the amp.
post #15120 of 15422
I bought my A5-350 back in 2007 (the old downward facing 350's). The LT-550 amp failed in early 2008, they replaced it back then, and it has worked ever since.

Does anyone know if that replaced amp probably already has the modifications that will hopefully prevent it from going out again? I'm not sure if all the LT-550 amps were the same model, but mine has the Keiga part number KGD-5250 (serial number scratched out - which seems to be common).

thanks...
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