Official Elemental Designs Subwoofer Thread - Page 506

your ohm readings sound normal.

with modern low cost electronics, it is often luck of the draw... sometimes they last a while, sometimes they last a week. that is the price we pay... face it... there are only a few of us that are willing to pay more for quality without realizing it. if say... a 300 watt amp costs $100, most of us that do not know any better, will not pay $200 for a 300 watt amp which we do not know is of much better quality. we have been conditioned to expect the lower price, not always knowing that we are getting exactly what we are paying for.

a great example, is the $179 TV that Walmart was selling on Black Friday... how many of them are still working ? i personally know of one that i have fixed, and one that is not working anymore. ( that i offered to fix ) and that is out of the exactly two of them that i know the people that bought them. wonder how the ones of the thousands of people that i dont personally know who bought them are doing... im sure they also got what they paid for.

back in the day, there was quality electronics even for low prices. i have a 18 year old Sony mid line 12 inch sub, that is still working perfectly and has required no work. i bought the Klipsch thinking i was upgrading, however, turns out i was actually downgrading... yeah... Sony... not my favorite brand. however, looking at the actual electronics of the amplifiers, it is quite obvious that the Sony amp is far superior to the Bash amp in the Klipsch. and here is the strangest thing... the Sony goes deeper, and sounds better. course, neither compare with my custom built multi speaker monster sub, powered with eD amps... but then again, i have seen nothing on the market that does.

anyway, it's $45 to $55 plus $16.85 USPS Priority 2-3 day large flat rate box return shipping for an LT200 fix and upgrade. it should last longer, as i refuse to use any China made parts in anything electronic i fix. only quality parts from Japan, Germany, or USA. however, that all depends on how you use it or abuse it, and if speaker abnormalities takes the amp out. with my personal upgraded eD amps, they have handled serious abuse quite well so far... but who knows how long it will be till i do something stupid.

I have an A3-250 and within the past couple of weeks I've noticed my sub making a clicking sound. One night, when the system was off, I noticed the red power light intermittently going on and off; something I have never noticed before. It's obviously normally a solid red when off. Then a couple nights later I could hear some mumbling coming from the sub when I was watching television, when normally I would not hear a peep out of the sub, and heard the clicking/switching sound. When I turned it off that night, even for a couple minutes after I turned it off, I could still hear the clicking. This week it seems every time I have watched television the clicking sound is present, and very annoying, so I turned the sub off. Any ideas what it could be? Could it be an issue with the receiver in anyway?

Thank you for your help!

Hey Dave. I would love to see the subs you built. Also I finally put to use 2 of the 3. Lt200s I got from you. Thanks for the help.

so, the sub plays normal when the receiver is on and sending a signal ? if so, unplug the RCA's and see if it still does it. if it does, then you may have a problem with the auto on/off circuit... which is pretty rare. i have seen that around 5 times out hundreds of eD amps.


will post pictures when it is completed... unfortunately, that date is an unknown. the car audio world is slamming me... they sure blow up a lot of amps.
but as of right now, it is uncovered bare MDF and still under development. eight 12 inchers, two 21 inchers, 2000 watts RMS, and currently about $700 invested. i am a firm believer in using speakers at around half of what they are capable of, with absolutely no problems with cone control like a maxed out speaker. why use one speaker at it's limits, when you can use two at half way ? ( ok, so space is not an issue for me ) super expensive high end subs out on the market are pretty wimpy...

Sweet I didn't know you had 21s. You had told me about the 12s. Must be fun.

Well, tonight it didn't have any clicking at all, however, it was doing the rumbling when I was watching tv. I watched a blu ray and it seemed to perform as it should, but when that was over and I switched it to television, it had the bass rumblings that should not be coming from the sub. I have no idea what is wrong with this thing.

i agree...,my 1300/LT has been hammering away for 9 or 10 years....and it has only seen great drivers...never touched a eD sub:eek:

Good to hear that the 1300 is good, because I own two of them.

Does anyone have any recommendations for replacement 15" drivers for the A5-350? I want something that will perform well with its LT.500 and hopefully come in at under $200, if possible.

********DISCLAIMER - I DO NOT WORK FOR eD AND HAVE NOT IN OVER 4 YEARS. PLEASE DO NOT REACH OUT TO ME WITH QUESTIONS***********

Now that that's out of the way, I'd guess more like 5~6.5 years

I know it seems like forever ago but 9 years ago I wasn't even at eD yet and we didn't move in to HT until late 2006/early 2007(post move to Newton).

Long time no hear Chris! I hope all is well with you and your family. My dual tri-port A7-450's are still kicking some serious butt with nary a problem. Removed the LT1300ssf and just used my velo sms-1 ssf for more tuning options (port plugs). BTW, I recall you tuned these to 18hz with all ports open, but when i disable the sms-1's ssf, response shows flat all the way down to 15hz and probably beyond. Room gain?

Hi Chris, I have not been able to figure out a solid answer on what the hpf and slope is on the newer lt 200 amps with the internal fins. If you have any solid info on the specs of this amp it would be great. I have 4 that i am using in some diy projects. thank you for the help

you are right, i just checked and i bought it march of 2007...so 6 years...i forgot about a couple of pro amps that that i tried in this house prior to buying the LT/1300.

seems like a million years ago.

Chris, would you remember the freq and slope of the built-in hpf on the lt1300?

did you unplug the RCA's like i suggested ?

when it does the rumble, is the LED on the amp green ? or red ? did you wait the 10-20 minutes for the amp to auto off ?

I'd have to think so. From the testing we did the drop started almost exactly at 18Hz.

Those are after my time. I've got no info there, sorry.

I know. Sometimes it feels like I've been gone for 6 or 7 years when I left barely 4 years ago.

Sometime ridiculously low, but no, I don't remember what it actually was.

Ok thanks, I guess with the LT1300 hpf removed, I'll just stick with the sms-1's ssf at 17hz 4th order to be on the safe side.

I have the television on now and I heard some clicking. I unplugged the RCA's from the sub and it is still doing the clicking/switching sound.

When the rumbling occurs, the LED is green. It only does the rumbling when the tv is on, and with the RCA's plugged in. Two nights ago I was watching NCAA basketball and literally every dribble made the sub respond with the light rumbling. It was beyond annoying; as it obviously should not be doing that.
Edited by Ace2377 - 3/5/13 at 3:59pm

so with the TV off, there is no problem ? the sub normally shuts off and shows a red light after say... 10 minutes or so ? then when music is played ( with the TV still off ) the light goes green, and works normally ?

the more and more you explain, the more and more it sounds like it is not the sub... but some interference from the TV.

There was one instance when I shut the tv off, and yes, after 10 minutes or so the light turned red, and it was still doing the clicking. There was also one instance when the system was off, the red light was on, but the red light kept intermittently going on and off. Not red to green, but red to completely off, back to red, back to off... But that was just one time that I noticed. But typically, when the tv is off there is no problem. I have never tried playing music with the tv off. I don't quite follow how the sub making clicking noises could be from the tv though? The rumbling I could possibly see, but it's the combination of the rumbling and clicking that made me think there was something wrong with the sub. The clicking/switching sound that is makes sounds similar to when the system is turned on and the light goes from red to green, but it just keeps intermittently doing it after it's kicked in.
Edited by Ace2377 - 3/5/13 at 6:55pm

My sub has no output. The lamp on the amp is green. The fuse is good. I don't even know where to start trouble shooting.

A7S - 450 LT/1300 amp.

I have a multimeter, but no idea what to do with it.

Daveds50...... The latest now, I still have the RCA's disconnected from the subwoofer. The red power light keeps going on and off. So the fact that the red light is intermittently going on and off with the RCA's disconnected, plus I hear a clicking/switching sound when they are connected and for a while after I disconnect them, plus the sub gives me bassy responses when watching tv programs that it never used to....does any of this add up to anything that you can think of?

Thank you for your time!

put the multimeter on ohms, on the lowest range it will go, disconnect the amp wires from the speaker, and measure across the speaker terminals. you should measure around 4 to 5 ohms. let me know what you find, and we will go from there. do not bother with the "9 volt battery test"... a cooked speaker that has a half ohm resistance on the voice coil, will make noise with a 9 volt battery... but it will blow up any amp you hook up to it.


possible the auto on/off circuit is not working right. the clicking is one of the two relays inside. one is for AC power, one is for speaker output delay. the auto on/off circuit controls both. i forgot to ask... this is on an LT300 right ?


anyway, will not be available till monday morning. will answer then.

Yes, this is an LT300. Is this something you can fix? Thank you!!
Edited by Ace2377 - 3/8/13 at 7:35am

My meeter was reading 5.2-5.3 ohms.

I have now checked the ohms on 2 a5-300.

I used a cheap harbor freight multimeter read .6 when leads shorted together.

On the first one with the coils wired up in series the multimeter read 5.6 ohm.
When I tested the coils separately one read 3.0 ohm and the other read 3.1 ohm.

One the second one with the coils wired in series the multimeter read 5.4 ohm.
When I tested the coils separately one coil was 3.1 ohm and the other coil was 3.1 ohm.

I also now have dual a5-350's in my living room. Dave has repaired the amp on each one and the subs are going strong so far. I have been living with one for about a year. I just recently added the second.

[Hi Dave,
My A5-350 went out Friday, sent you a PM with ohm measurement. If it turns out the speaker is bad as well as the amp, is it worth replacing the speaker? Which one would you suggest?

Thanks
Dave

What were your measurements?

Measuring at the end of the wires it read 6.7 - 6.8 ohms. Speaker moves freely with no crackling or any other sound.