RS2/ PRO-FPJ1 Owners: Setup Discussion Thread - Page 93

I see you have it or something similar installed.

How far back is it from the screen? Is brightness ok?

If it works I might considering using this idea. It looks damn good.

I have 160 hrs and sin i calibrated at 70 hrs I have had to bumpup brightness from 0 to 5. Eeeek

Did you bump up your contrast level?
Once it starts dimming due to hrs there is nothing can be done since the contrast level should remain fixed if calibrated.

Thanks, it's a Vantage Point shelf system similar to the omni mount. The PJ lens is 17' from a 116" wide high power screen which, as you might guess, provides plenty of foot Lamberts on the screen. The reasons fo the switch from a ceiling mount to the wall mount was two-fold, to reduce PJ vibrations induced from upper floor activity and a desire for a very convenient method of raising or lowering the PJ for desired on screen brightness . The shelf mount is lagged into concrete and definitely cured the vibrations from both upstair activity and some vibations induced by the subwoofer. With the PJ vibrating less I believe this will increase bulb life as well, I've been going through a few (3 with RS1 and on my second with the FPJ1) and theorize the lamp early demise may have been due to my previous ceiling mount. So far so good, wish I done this type of setup originally.

I have a chief-mount available if anyone's interested.

Correct, the shelf will work fine. My Omni Mount is older than the one they sell new now but the new dimensions are fine. The feet of the projector are 11" apart so technically that is all you need. The front of my shelf is around 23" from the back wall and I have 8" between the wall and the back of the FPJ1. You will end up with around 6 depending on where you position the unit on the shelf.

No, not that I can tell. However, I haven't used it in about two weeks, so I don't know if I would have noticed.

I have one of those Kill-A-Watt meters and noticed that the FPJ1 consumes 5-6 W while in standby mode. While not a lot (about $5/year's worth of energy), it's considerably more than I expected, so I've plugged the projector into a rackmount power strip that I'll be turning off whenever I'm done in the home theater (of course after letting the FPJ1's cooldown cycle fully complete). If anyone else is removing power, just wondering if I should anticipate any negative effects, such as losing settings.

Will 4 toggle bolts hold this wall mount with the projector on it if there is no studs available for it to attach to? 1/2" drywall.

Thanks again.

Good question, not sure of the answer for short term, but I have disconnected the power to my RS2 during real bad thunderstorms
and the settings held. If you leave it without power for a week or so I am not sure of the effects if any.

Better keep it plugged in to protect electronics assuming it won't get by tstorm.

It appears four 1/4" toggle bolts would be overkill. I'm not an engineer so I will not and can not assume responsibility for signing off on your families safety but it appears one 1/4" toggle bolt would suffice for the tension and shear strengths required to hold the projector on the shelf you noted. Here's a link which supplies most of the info required so you can determine the toggle bolt requirement needed, responsibility/liability for whatever fastening requirements you employ are yours and yours alone.

http://www.factsfacts.com/MyHomeRepa...rstrengths.htm

Cheers.

Why do you think it's better to keep it plugged in?

Some components such caps last longer witha small flow than none.
But if you are using it every day or at least once week then you may shutt off the power w/o any problem.

The question dp70 had was if the settings would hold with the unit unplugged for an extended time. That I do not know.

I posted this observation a month ago, and have noticed that quite a few DVD's have playback issues similar to this. For example, tried watching the Indiana Jones Trilogy and there were the lines again. Can anyone tell me if there is a way to get rid of them?

Also tried to watch T2 last night off DVD (Extended Cut) not extreme edition but release before that. This time it had lines running vertically down the sides. Could fix that easily by zooming out a bit. But thought it was weird.

Watched over 50 blu-rays and this problem does not exist on blu. Is this a common problem for DVD's and projectors?

Looked over the web and cannot find information about this problem, or how to fix it.

Are you also using a PS3 to watch DVDs?

Could you be more specific? I just watch Indiana Jones DVD yesterday on DVD with no issues at all. When you say lines on it what do you mean?
Do you see zebra stripes in black and white all over the place color stripes in the corner, it hard to tell your description needs to be way better. All I can tell you is that you should not be seeing stripes at all, it should be a normal image. I have not seen a single person report this stripe issue.

Yes. With or without upscaling the lines are there.

Sorry for the bad description. I guess pictures would help, but I couldn't find anything similar online.

Let me try to describe it again. The picture looks fine, NO zebra stripes or anything like that. We are also talking about images less that 1.78:1. Most noticable on 2.35:1 films.

Now watch a bright scene on say Indy 3. You should see 2 very faint straight horizontal black lines (NOT BLACK BARS) in the picture itself. 1 running near the top and 1 near the bottom of the picture.

Its hardly noticeable, but if you look you will see it. Once you see it its distracting. Especially noticable of 100" screens and larger. Mine in a 106" 16x9 Screen.

If it is the PS3 doing this what can I do? Why is it doing this? It sort of reminds me of overscan but the projector has these settings greyed out. Nothing on the PS3 to control it.

I am running it on a 110" (16:9) screen, but I have yet to see these lines you describe. If you could hook up a different DVD player to see if its the player itself. I wish I had more info for you, maybe someone else will chime in. that has seen this before.

Yep, I have seen this on Indianna Jones before. I have the Denon Dvd 3930 and it was away for a lens clean (bloody stupid overpriced unreliable player). So I stuck Indianna in the PS3. I saw the scan lines as described, I noticed the image improved when you turned the sharpness down. However when I got the Denon back there was no issue. So it is related to the player itself.

Dono

So you are saying its just the PS3? Your Denon did not display this problem?

Could you clarify something for me. Does the Denon chop that part of the image being displayed by the PS3? I have a theory that the PS3 may be showing you a bit more image (Thus the black border line). Could you compare when you have a chance? See if you are getting a little more image from the top and bottom out of the PS3.

Yeah, let me clarify. When I got this projector I ran Digital Video Essential on Blu-ray. You can put up a test pattern for overscan. This projector has no overscan (it shows 100% of what it should). Most projectors I have had in the pass have had about 5% overscan. So when you put on Indianna or T2 the discs them selves have been made poorly and dont extend to the sides.
The worst I found was T2, Men in Black and Hollow man (just about anything Columbia Tristar). I just threw them away and got the Blu (problem gone). I think in the early days of Dvd they antispated that most displays would overscan and no one would see it. No good for now.
The differenced I have observed with the PS3 and Denon is. The PS3 is doing what it is supose to (show 100%) but it really is showing every little artifact (particularly the sides look awful) with the Denon and the Relta chip it sharpens the edges up and you have 5 different picture setting memories. What I do is have them set on different posistion settings. One setting will locate the picture in the middle of the screen which only leaves a tiny mask line down the left and right. This works well for Indianna you can't notice any problems. I have observed all Fox, Warners and Universal have no Masking issues. Columbia and Lionsgate are the worst. Paramount has a little.
The PS3 is doing what it is supose to it is just the Denon has a work around that works well. That being said I have a Love/Hate relationship for the Denon. When it works it is great. However mine is bloody unreliable it need constant Lens cleaning.

Thanks
Dono

Both are showing 100% of the picture. I have tested on DVD essentials on Dvd. It is just that the Denon Realta chip sharpens the edges and you can re-posistion with tiny mask lines down the edges. Works well on Indianna. T2 on DVD is hopeless.

Dono

Has anyone done any calibrations recently? I hit 110 hrs tonight. I have CalMAN and an Eye-One, but have not done anything other than the gamma setting discussed many pages ago.

I thought I needed caibration after last nite viewing "Mamma Mia" with the wife. The colors on the DVD to me looked horrible! Even she noticed it. I thought my PJ colors got out of wack. Right after the movie I had to play a test disc to double check things and it all checked out OK.

Well, I've narrowed down my screen surface choices but can't seem to pull the trigger. I have samples of Firehawk G3, Studiotek 130, Dalite Da Matte, Cinemavision, and HC Cinemavision as my final 4.

PJ is mounted overhead with about a 12' throw distance. Seating is about the same. Room has blackout coverings on windows but within the room I have a light couch, hardwood floors, and offwhite walls. Screen size is 106" diag.

Is anyone using one of the these 4 screens with a FPJ1/RS2? Anyone using one of them in a room with some reflective ambient light?

The picture on the PJ is stunning on my wall so I can't imagine how it will look on the right screen surface. In initial testing, the FHG3 has best blacks as expected but looks dim at times in comparison to the others, particularly when watching sports. ST130 is brightest picture but I can't tell if the blacks are black enough. Da Matte seems closest in picture to my wall which isn't a bad thing and seems to be a medium between FH and ST130. The Cinemavision is hard to gauge. AT times it looks washed out but at times, it's the best picture. I wish the screen samples were larger. Tough to judge on a little swatch.

Have you tried Carada? If you are going the use a fixed frame screen I would HIGHLY recommend them. Their screen material is the only one that I have used that didn't exhibit sparklies or have the screen structure visible during bright scenes. Since they sell online you can get a screen usually cheaper from them. I know Alan Gouger has the same expririece with their material and he like me despises sparlies and visible screen structure. If black levels are not good enough on a higher grain screen just slap a neutral density filter in front of the lens to lower black level. As the bulb ages and dims just remove the filter.

Tom

Most unity gain screens don't have sparklies so that is not unique to Carada.
Sparklies come from coated surface to increase gain. Carada is nearly a 1.1 gain and in my comparision ST130 G3 is much brighter and at normal seating distance you are not going to see the sparklies. But it is expensive.
Carada is a good screen at the price point not performance in gain. Their frames are real nice and where its good at.

Tom,so how you do find the noise level of the Pioneer? Has it been much of an issue for you? What about your general impressions compared to the Pearl? Any regrets?

I have a 110" HC cinemavision with about a 16' throw (FPJ1) sitting back about 10', I don't like being able to see the embedded crystals on the screen when there is a white or otherwise bright image. Just my 2 cents.