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RS2/ PRO-FPJ1 Owners: Setup Discussion Thread - Page 97

post #2881 of 4190
Quote:
Originally Posted by notoriousmatty View Post

Any dealers still sellling these?

I can get the RS2. but I doubt there are any FPJ1s after the dumping a few months ago..... at least at the dumping price.
post #2882 of 4190
Quote:
Originally Posted by gregeas View Post

I haven't looked at this thread in a while so I might have missed this, but is anyone using the FPJ1/RS2 with the new Oppo Blu-ray player (BDP-83)?

If so, can anyone share info about the settings and performance? My theater setup is at a weekend house, so I don't have much time to tweak out there. Can wait to get rid of my loud-as-hell first gen PS3. I'm betting the Oppo with my FPJ1 will rock...

I swapped out a Panasonic DMP-BD30 for the Oppo BDP-83. Definitely faster load times and works great for SACD and DVD-A. Setup of the Oppo was easy. I didn't adjust much (it came with latest firmware). I did set HDMI output to 1080p24.

I bought it for faster load time and universal function (SACD/DVD-A) mainly. Improved DVD playback and BDLive are nice, but I wasn't expecting tremendous improvement when playing DVDs. It can't perform magic while upscaling, but it's nice to know that it's pretty much as good as it gets. BD playback is going to crush DVD on my large screen, so being realistic was important in setting my expectations. I still need to see if there are any further tweaks and play around with the Spears BD. I have only set "1080p24 playback for DVD". I haven't dug any deeper. Most of my time has been spent setting up sound options in my setup.

I'm happy with my Oppo and FPJ1 combination along with my 7.1 audio.
post #2883 of 4190
Quote:
Originally Posted by notoriousmatty View Post

Any dealers still sellling these?

I've seen some dealers around Atlanta that still had them listed in their HT packages. However, they were not at blowout prices. Most of the ones I've seen recently are around $4-5k. The days of getting one for under $3k are gone, gone, gone.
post #2884 of 4190
I have trouble with DVD's when player set for 1080P/24. The imgage gets horizontal lines during fast pans. When ouput on my player is set to 1080p/60 this does not happen.
post #2885 of 4190
Quote:
Originally Posted by limulus View Post

I've seen some dealers around Atlanta that still had them listed in their HT packages. However, they were not at blowout prices. Most of the ones I've seen recently are around $4-5k. The days of getting one for under $3k are gone, gone, gone.

I would think for that price that buyers would have to consider the newer RS10(350) and RS20(750) models. Given a choice of a new RS2 or a RS10 I think I would definitely go for the newer model just for the added brightness and lower audible noise level. Anyone like to exchange their RS10 for a RS2??? I'm listening.
post #2886 of 4190
Quote:
Originally Posted by OzzieP View Post

I have trouble with DVD's when player set for 1080P/24. The imgage gets horizontal lines during fast pans. When ouput on my player is set to 1080p/60 this does not happen.

Assuming you were referring to my post on the Oppo....

I just got mine set up and haven't played many DVDs yet, so I'll look for this. I'll take this over to the Oppo thread in BD player forum should I see it and need more info on if/when fix will come from Oppo.
post #2887 of 4190
Just bought an FPJ1!! Got a fantastic deal on it too. Now onto the research of screens.
post #2888 of 4190
Quote:
Originally Posted by Clark Burk View Post

I would think for that price that buyers would have to consider the newer RS10(350) and RS20(750) models. Given a choice of a new RS2 or a RS10 I think I would definitely go for the newer model just for the added brightness and lower audible noise level. Anyone like to exchange their RS10 for a RS2??? I'm listening.


I concur
post #2889 of 4190
Quote:
Originally Posted by limulus View Post

I concur

I got mine today for under 2500.
post #2890 of 4190
Quote:
Originally Posted by notoriousmatty View Post

I got mine today for under 2500.

Is there anymore left for that price? I got mine for around that price but a friend of mine has been trying to get a FPJ1 also.

I know what dealer here in the Bay Area that has one left and it was a demo model so it has hours on it and he wants a little under $4k for it. So glad I got mine during blowout sale
post #2891 of 4190
Hello.
I was wondering if anybody can help me with my problem which is driving me crazy. My onkyo 885 is connected via HDMI to my Pioneer Pro-FPJ1 (RS2 clone) PJ. My source component is a Toshiba HD-A35 HD-DVD player. Since last night I can not get any audio from any movies via bitstream. The 885 shows no "signal" from the HDMI, it puts itself in 2 channel mode PCM. If I switch inputs on the PJ the audio comes back. When I go back to the HDMI input where the A35 is connected I get video but no audio. Everything is setup for bitstreaming from A35 to the 885.

I don't think is the 25 ft. Monoprice HDMI cable because I do get video but no audio. I have checked and re checked the settings on the 885 but with no luck. Am I missing something?

Thanks
post #2892 of 4190
So finally been getting a chance to watch some movies on the FPJ1..Made a 126inch screen out of Blackout cloth..came out pretty nice! I play on getting a Carada BW though or maybe even finding some DIY screen material that is equal quality as Caradas BW..

I have noticed reds are really over saturated.. It doesnt bug me to bad though.. Will the DVE or Avia calibration disc work good enough to get more natural colors for the FPJ1? Or am I better just leaving the settings how they are?

Also blacks are very nice. even better on Blu-ray! Is there anything I can do to get the blacks even blacker like the inky blacks the Kuro plasma have?

I know a totally black bat cave will give me the best contrast but is there anything else I could do to get better contrast without having the room totally black?

Any tips/advice would be great!
post #2893 of 4190
Quote:
Originally Posted by notoriousmatty View Post

I got mine today for under 2500.

With or without warranty?
post #2894 of 4190
......
post #2895 of 4190
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chrisx510 View Post

So finally been getting a chance to watch some movies on the FPJ1..Made a 126inch screen out of Blackout cloth..came out pretty nice! I play on getting a Carada BW though or maybe even finding some DIY screen material that is equal quality as Caradas BW..

I have noticed reds are really over saturated.. It doesnt bug me to bad though.. Will the DVE or Avia calibration disc work good enough to get more natural colors for the FPJ1? Or am I better just leaving the settings how they are?

Also blacks are very nice. even better on Blu-ray! Is there anything I can do to get the blacks even blacker like the inky blacks the Kuro plasma have?

I know a totally black bat cave will give me the best contrast but is there anything else I could do to get better contrast without having the room totally black?

Any tips/advice would be great!

Paint all of your windows black.
post #2896 of 4190
Did you install Alan Gougers settings yet? They make a significant improvement!
JB
post #2897 of 4190
Quote:
Originally Posted by olinda cat View Post

Did you install Alan Gougers settings yet? They make a significant improvement!
JB

No I did not.. Where can I get them?
post #2898 of 4190
I installed it today. 96" 2:05 screen and a pioneer fpj1 projector. First off the Projector was "ISF" Calibrated, or so says the person that i bought it from. It has about 200 hours on it and in movie mode the brightness is WAYYYYY low, plus the red push is unbearable. Its in movie mode. When I switch to standard I get black crush. User 1 or 2 seems the best to me so far but its uncalibrated. I love a natural picture so for me to say something has red push it really has a red push.
Also this thing sounds like a tank moving through my room. I put it into normal lamp mode from high lamp mode and that took off the edge on the noise. Its still really loud though. In my 11x15 room this projector is a furnace. It heats up the room like I had a live fire cooking right in my room. So lots of reading to do for me in the forum.
On a positive note the 2:05 carada screen looks great!!

I should also note that Im in a man cave.
post #2899 of 4190
Quote:
Originally Posted by olinda cat View Post

Did you install Alan Gougers settings yet? They make a significant improvement!
JB

What post # ?
post #2900 of 4190
Quote:
Originally Posted by notoriousmatty View Post

I installed it today. 96" 2:05 screen and a pioneer fpj1 projector. First off the Projector was "ISF" Calibrated, or so says the person that i bought it from. It has about 200 hours on it and in movie mode the brightness is WAYYYYY low, plus the red push is unbearable. Its in movie mode. When I switch to standard I get black crush. User 1 or 2 seems the best to me so far but its uncalibrated. I love a natural picture so for me to say something has red push it really has a red push.
Also this thing sounds like a tank moving through my room. I put it into normal lamp mode from high lamp mode and that took off the edge on the noise. Its still really loud though. In my 11x15 room this projector is a furnace. It heats up the room like I had a live fire cooking right in my room. So lots of reading to do for me in the forum.
On a positive note the 2:05 carada screen looks great!!

I should also note that Im in a man cave.

Try these...

Quote:


-Pioneer for some reason boosted sharpness to +20. The RS2 is set to 0. I tested it with DVE and 0 is spot on. Anymore and you get ringing.
-Set user gamma to 2.4 and than goto W and set 5 IRE from 40 to 45.
-Set color temp to middle.
-If the colors bother you, dropping somewhere between -5 to -12 will help.
-And lastly set black and white after these settings with a test disc. (0 will be close)
-save all settings under a user and your good to go.
post #2901 of 4190
thanks. couple more problems. I have a white beam of light on the right side of my screen when the image is complete blackness. Its shaped like the lens so I how do I get rid of this? How to you clean a lens. When the projector is one I see what looks like thumbprints on it, maybe its just how im looking at it. Im still trying to get the colors to look proper. What exactly is ISF calibration? Is it going into the service menu and changing stuff? I might have to send this to AVS for a calibration because whoever did this one is bad at their job.
post #2902 of 4190
What you see in the corner is called "bright corner". That is actually a shading issue. Mine has zero shading and with excellent uniformity. There is nothing can be done to correct that. Do not clean the lens other than blowing it. What you see on the lens is normal.
If the gray scale is done right (isf ing) then set the color to -18. There should not be any red push or green push at the price of lower blue. Do not change the color temp to mid if it is isfed. Leave it at the manual and ask the previous owner where the custome calibration is saved at. Perhaps it is user 1 or 2.
If considering doing a second calibration I suggest to be done at your place with your screen.
post #2903 of 4190
Changing the contrast from -21 to positive 8 helped. I changed brightness from -3 to +1 The color was set at -5 and I left it there. I also changed the gamma as instructed througout the forum. And put it at Medium color temp. This seemed to alleviate some of the red push. Also one of the blue settings was at -25. That seemed odd and I put it back up to -5 with the rest. These give me the best settings so far.
post #2904 of 4190
Quote:
Originally Posted by CaspianM View Post

What you see in the corner is called "bright corner". That is actually a shading issue. Mine has zero shading and with excellent uniformity. There is nothing can be done to correct that. Do not clean the lens other than blowing it. What you see on the lens is normal.
If the gray scale is done right (isf ing) then set the color to -18. There should not be any red push or green push at the price of lower blue. Do not change the color temp to mid if it is isfed. Leave it at the manual and ask the previous owner where the custome calibration is saved at. Perhaps it is user 1 or 2.
If considering doing a second calibration I suggest to be done at your place with your screen.

That is not "bright corner" he is experiencing. The FPJ1's and the RS2's do not generally have this problem and it does not, as I understand it, manifest in that way. I believe what he is seeing is light leakage from the side of the lense. I am betting this is because the seller failed to insert the foam padding around the lense when he shipped the the projector. The padding is intended to keep the lense stable in the event of harsh handling. If I am right, this will likely require warranty work. My advise would be to call the seller. He may want to take it up with the shipper.

J
post #2905 of 4190
Quote:
Originally Posted by nohjy View Post

That is not "bright corner" he is experiencing. The FPJ1's and the RS2's do not generally have this problem and it does not, as I understand it, manifest in that way. I believe what he is seeing is light leakage from the side of the lense. I am betting this is because the seller failed to insert the foam padding around the lense when he shipped the the projector. The padding is intended to keep the lense stable in the event of harsh handling. If I am right, this will likely require warranty work. My advise would be to call the seller. He may want to take it up with the shipper.

J

I did get one FPJ1 first with bright corner which I returned. It was not too bad but visible in low cr clips.
His might be light leakage or shading issue. It is hard to say for sure.
I have mine w/o the foams and have no issues with light leakage.

Bright corner is very possible even with RS2 but it certainly has improved immensly and should not look like light leak.
post #2906 of 4190
Quote:
Originally Posted by notoriousmatty View Post

thanks. couple more problems. I have a white beam of light on the right side of my screen when the image is complete blackness. Its shaped like the lens so I how do I get rid of this? How to you clean a lens. When the projector is one I see what looks like thumbprints on it, maybe its just how im looking at it. Im still trying to get the colors to look proper. What exactly is ISF calibration? Is it going into the service menu and changing stuff? I might have to send this to AVS for a calibration because whoever did this one is bad at their job.

Just to revisit this comment. An ISF calibration should be done in the environment that the projector is situated in. The ISF calibration may have worked in their environment, but will not necessary work in your room due to many variables that will effect the picture i.e. screen type/color/gain, wall colours, other reflective items in the room, different zoom/focus characteristics etc. Also depending on when the calibration was done, the may have been flucutations caused by the bulb. It is recommended that it will take 100 hours for the bulb to settle down.
post #2907 of 4190
Quote:
Originally Posted by CaspianM View Post

I did get one FPJ1 first with bright corner which I returned. It was not too bad but visible in low cr clips.
His might be light leakage or shading issue. It is hard to say for sure.
I have mine w/o the foams and have no issues with light leakage.

Bright corner is very possible even with RS2 but it certainly has improved immensly and should not look like light leak.

I know that it is possible for this projector, just not common. On the foam for the lense, I wasn't suggesting it needed to stay in place. The foam is to keep the lense in alignment when shipping. I am guessing that the lense came out of alignement and light leakge has resulted.

J
post #2908 of 4190
Quote:
Originally Posted by R10KYJ View Post

Just to revisit this comment. An ISF calibration should be done in the environment that the projector is situated in. The ISF calibration may have worked in their environment, but will not necessary work in your room due to many variables that will effect the picture i.e. screen type/color/gain, wall colours, other reflective items in the room, different zoom/focus characteristics etc. Also depending on when the calibration was done, the may have been flucutations caused by the bulb. It is recommended that it will take 100 hours for the bulb to settle down.

Screen requires the gray scale a touch up.
Zooming and refocusing has no effect on grayscale.
Wall color if too reflective would change the top a bit but hardly has any effect on the lower portion of the scale.
I would wait at least for another 300 hours (better if another 500 hrs) before tweaking the grayscale as bulb aging has the most effect on the grayscale.
post #2909 of 4190
Should I reset my ISF calibration back to factory default? Ill eventually get an isf done.
post #2910 of 4190
Or better use one of the user's setting that has not been calibrated (factory setting).
There is no point by deleting the calibration if you use another user's since the changes are not global.
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