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RS2/ PRO-FPJ1 Owners: Setup Discussion Thread - Page 2

post #31 of 4219
I will be checking mine for convergence very soon with the DVE disc. So far mine looks pretty good, but I haven't really scrutinized it too much.

The mounting plate for the sled does seem like a good idea. I might say that the price for one is a ripoff. Even the AVS discounted pricing is a good bit high.
post #32 of 4219
I've had my RS2 for about two weeks now and I've ended up with brightness -2, and contrast 0, cinema profile and for gamma either theater 1 or normal. Black items in a movie such as a hat, coat etc. are as black as my screens black border but at times the image appears a little washed out on my 100" Firehawk. I wish I could solve this and I wish in the service menu I could adjust the blanking like on the Sony VW60 and the new Marantz. I don't like the image spilling onto the black sides of the screen and the mask affects sides and the top and bottom. My room is dedicated with no light but it's not black. I don't think this is why some movies look sort of grey in dark scenes. Maybe it's the movie itself, I haven't determined this yet. Does this sound familiar to anyone else ?
post #33 of 4219
Quote:
Originally Posted by GScott View Post

Those that have your projector setup what is your brightness and contrast settings? I set mine using DVE and ended up with a brightness of -1 and a contrast of -3. The problem is the black level is not all that great. I can easily see a 0 IRE screen and black space scenes do not look all that black. This wasn't the case with the local RS1 demo I viewed. I'm stumped because the RS2 should have twice the contrast and roughly half the black level of the RS1. I also have misconvergence issues on the right 1/3 and bottom 1/3 of the screen. The red is off by 1 line on the DVE convergence pattern and easily seen from 12' back.

I noticed your HT has light ceiling and walls. This would limit your contrast dramatically I would guess.
post #34 of 4219
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cameron View Post

The mounting plate for the sled does seem like a good idea. I might say that the price for one is a ripoff. Even the AVS discounted pricing is a good bit high.

Yeah, I know what you mean. I just wrote the check and tried to forget about it.

But, and it's a big but.............the price of admission is well worth it. I just got my setup complete today. It works perfect and the image is outstanding!! I've always been a huge believer in using the whole panel of the projector. The HBO HD OAR SW Attack of the Clones was unbelievable. I did some comparisons back and forth with the Pannie in the path and out of the path via the super cool little remote that comes with the M380. It was a bit of a pain having to adjust zoom, position, etc., to fill the screen but there is no doubt that the image is brighter with VStretch on and the lens in place.

Chris
post #35 of 4219
Thread Starter 
Quick note:

Hey Shawn Kelly, if you're following this, hows about having the little remote eye that comes with the M380 a pass-thru type so that we can stick that to the RS2 ir-in first and then attach our emitter to the outside of that. That would eliminate having to do 2 ir emitters in the same area.

Chris
post #36 of 4219
Quote:
Originally Posted by kevivoe View Post

I noticed your HT has light ceiling and walls. This would limit your contrast dramatically I would guess.

Sorry but my room has very dark maroon walls and a dark grey ceiling. They may look brighter in the picture but in real life both a very dark and a far cry from light colored. The pics in my gallery were taken with a 1000w halogen light so you could see the projector when I was selling it.
post #37 of 4219
Quote:
Originally Posted by CCLAY View Post

Yeah, I know what you mean. I just wrote the check and tried to forget about it.

But, and it's a big but.............the price of admission is well worth it. I just got my setup complete today. It works perfect and the image is outstanding!! I've always been a huge believer in using the whole panel of the projector. The HBO HD OAR SW Attack of the Clones was unbelievable. I did some comparisons back and forth with the Pannie in the path and out of the path via the super cool little remote that comes with the M380. It was a bit of a pain having to adjust zoom, position, etc., to fill the screen but there is no doubt that the image is brighter with VStretch on and the lens in place.

Chris

I'm glad to hear that it is looking great!

When you say it looks brighter with lens etc, are you comparing it to zooming?

I have my RS2 temporarily setup on a Stewart Grayhawk in the rec room. It still looks way awesome even on the old low gain screen.

I still have construction underway in the dedicated theater room and it is of course behind schedule as it is taking me too long to do all of the wiring.


So are you ceiling mounting your RS2?
post #38 of 4219
Thread Starter 
If I fill my screen with a 2.35 image and no lens in place, then compare it to a filled screen with the Pannie in place, the image is brighter. This has to because of using the whole panel of the RS2. By my math, you're putting up about 33% more of the panel on the screen by using VStretch and a lens.

I did some tests long ago using a light meter with my G11/Panamorph vs. the G11 alone and found substantial light output differences.

I'll take a few shots of my install and post them.

Cameron, another note, and please confirm this once you get your install done. I found I had to tilt the UH480 lens downward a bit to keep a good geometry on the screen. Otherwise there was a little curve to the image on the lower left/right part of the screen. The only thing I can think is that with a ceiling mount and the image being shot downward, the lens has to be tilted down to match the light path.

BTW, I'm using now a 10ft wide 2.40 SMX screen vs. my old 9ft wide 2.35 Firehawk. The more I watch, the more this combo is blowing me away. It takes time, for me anyway, to watch a lot of familiar content and get a feel for how this setup compares to my old G11 setup. It is amazingly clear, the colors are vibrant and the blacks are so much better.

Chris
post #39 of 4219
That is interesting on the tilt. Thanks for the clarification on the brightness.

My final setup will be with a 10' wide 2.35 screen. Ultramatte 1.5 gain microperf. I am excited to try it out. The screen is setup in another theater and I can try out the combo when the Panamorph arrives.

I will try it on the grayhawk first. It is a 9' wide 16:9.

I'm glad to hear the good results. I really didn't want to go anamorphic, but at the discount price, it was definitely doeable.

Cheers.
post #40 of 4219
Thread Starter 
I think you're going to be very glad you did the anamorphic system. After playing around now with both ways, I'd never go back to just the RS2 alone.
post #41 of 4219
I think I will be happy with it too. I just didn't want to spend the extra money on the lens and sled. MSRP the combo kit with the plate is close to $6500.00.

So have you figured a way to automagically enable VStretch when you need it?
post #42 of 4219
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cameron View Post

So have you figured a way to automagically enable VStretch when you need it?

No, not yet. We need that ir code for VStretch. If there are codes for zoom, focus, etc., VStretch has to be available too, right? That should've been a button on the remote.

I did figure out the sled ir sensor thing though. Pic to follow.
post #43 of 4219
Thread Starter 
When I pulled the ir sensor off the sled housing, which is where I first had it, the dbl sided tape came off the sensor. Much to my chagrin, the sensor is open on both sides so I simply cut a hole in the tape, stuck my system emitter on to the RS2 ir in sensor, then put the tape on the front side of the sled sensor and viola, it works perfect. I may need to do a little more to ensure that both pieces stay there, like maybe a thin strip of Velcro that wraps around the ir area.

Chris
LL
post #44 of 4219
Thread Starter 
The angle of the lens to the RS2.
LL
post #45 of 4219
The JVC NA Chief engineer for D-ILA doesn't seem to know very much in regards to this projector and doesn't seem to want to help out that much to get the RS232 and other important IR codes. Perhaps I can get Tom Stites to help out with this a little.

Thanks for the pics.
post #46 of 4219
Has anyone gotten into the maintenance menus yet? Anything interesting in there? Just curious.

Mine's due on the 8th so I'm busy cleaning out the room so I can paint 'mouse ears' on the walls/ceiling and hang the screen.

I just got my BlueRay copy of Blade Runner Final Cut and am saving it as the first movie!

Can't wait!
post #47 of 4219
The good thing about the service menu is a white cross hatch pattern. My convergence looked off with the DVE pattern but was much closer with the internal pattern. Using the remote codes in one of the other threads you can also adjust the focus using the white crosshatch instead of the standard green one.
post #48 of 4219
Folks,

Can you tell me what the highest resolution you were able to input into the RS2?

I cannot get over 1080px24Hz. That was the highest I could get to work from my Anthem D2 processor. I am not sure whether it is a HDMI cable (I only have 25' run) or something else... In the manual it says that JVC RS2 can accept up to 1080p x 60Hz. But as soon as I go over 24Hz I lose the picture..

Thanks
post #49 of 4219
I have no problems with 1080p coming from a xa2 and ps3. My guess is a problem with your anthem settings or output.
post #50 of 4219
Cameron,

I can set Anthem to higher refresh rate, and as soon as I go over 1080p x 24Hz I get blank screen.

So, 1080px30Hz or 1080px60Hz is not working for me.

What refresh rates are your PS2 and XA2 outputing?

How long is your HDMI cable?

Thanks
post #51 of 4219
Is the convergence off just as much in the other corner? If not it's the lens.
post #52 of 4219
Sorry if I missed it, but how do you access the service menu?
post #53 of 4219
Quote:
Originally Posted by rsh View Post

Folks,

Can you tell me what the highest resolution you were able to input into the RS2?

I cannot get over 1080px24Hz. That was the highest I could get to work from my Anthem D2 processor. I am not sure whether it is a HDMI cable (I only have 25' run) or something else... In the manual it says that JVC RS2 can accept up to 1080p x 60Hz. But as soon as I go over 24Hz I lose the picture..

Thanks

In the HD100 of a friend of mine we put with an HTPC 1080px50Hz with no problem.
post #54 of 4219
Just got my RS-2 yesterday and was surprised at the packaging material it came in....just two styrofoam sides inside of a box that was too big. I mean during shipment it could rattle around inside its box...(and the box was the acutal JVC RS-2-G box) so when I set up my PJ, the left/right lens shift knob doesn't work. Everything else about the unit looks great, and am wondering if anyone else has had packaging problems? Is it a huge deal that the knob doesn't work? could I just manually shift the lens, or should I ask for an exchange?
post #55 of 4219
Curious...how did you determine the shift knobs were broken? They are not the greatest quality and on mine I had to move/turn them several turns before they seemed to catch and actually move the picture.
post #56 of 4219
FerPhobos,

How long was the cable between the HTPC and RS2?
post #57 of 4219
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by GScott View Post

Curious...how did you determine the shift knobs were broken? They are not the greatest quality and on mine I had to move/turn them several turns before they seemed to catch and actually move the picture.

Ditto.

The packing was not very tight in mine either, but I have no issues so far.

Chris
post #58 of 4219
I figured the shift knob was kaput when after several HUNDRED spins in either direction, nothing happened to left/right. the vertical shift works, though. I'm sure its something simple as re-threading the knob on its internal mechanism.

Curious, on the box or warranty card, does anyone else have an "RS2-G"? Does anyone know what the G stands for?
post #59 of 4219
Thread Starter 
On the bar code label, mine says G also.
post #60 of 4219
I recieved my RS2 on Dec.29/07 and was so happy. The image is just staggering compared to my old PT-AE700U. However, after the honeymoon, I noticed that the bottom left 1/4 of the image is out of focus compared to the rest of the screen. Now I'm not saying it looks really blurry from my seating position, but I can not see the individual pixels focused sharply in this area when I focus the pixels in the center of the image. When I focus the pixels in the bottom left 1/4 of my image the center pixels are out of optimum focus. So in other words I can not have the rest of my image focused the same as the bottom left 1/4 of my screen. I hope that makes sense to you guys........

My projector is 14ft from the 119" screen. I have it shelf mounted 2 1/2ft from the ceiling and about a foot to the left (when looking at the front). There is a good amount of vertical lens shift used, and a bit of horizontal. I know that this is not optimal, but my room dictates this setup.

I am wondering if this is to be expected on this model (or any other model) when using the lens shift. I did not notice it on the PT_AE700U with a similar lens shift, but then again I was not really looking.

I would greatly appreciate it if GlenC (I believe he has an RS2) or someone could tell me if this is normal or not for the RS2.............

Quote:
Originally Posted by CCLAY View Post

On the bar code label, mine says G also.

Ditto! Mine says DLA-RS2-G on the bar code and on the warranty card. Every where I look I see no mention of a "G", only DLA-RS2U. Does anybody know what the heck this is? Mine was packed pretty tight in the box.

Thanks,

Relic
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