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RS2/ PRO-FPJ1 Owners: Setup Discussion Thread - Page 101

post #3001 of 4190
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by OzzieP View Post

I was just curious on how wide I could go with this unit and still maintain a bright image. Did you ever find a way of switching to anamorphiv mode without going thru the menu system?

To me it's plenty bright, but I'm 100% light controlled.

No, I still use a Control4 macro to switch to VStretch, but it's fast and works perfect every time.

Chris
post #3002 of 4190
Hi,
I've tried calibrating for the first time by following the grey scale for dummies guide and using the spyder2 meter.
My PJ has 160 hours on it. I've measured all color temperatures while using gamma 2.4 and found that the best looking RGB graph was on low temperature so I used it, tweaked the offset so I'll get closer and then played a LOT with the gamma settings.
I got a descent RGB measurements so far but for some reason the gamma stays screwy. What could be the reason and how Can I fix it?

Thanks!
LL
LL
post #3003 of 4190
You can't. This projector does not have enough control for full calibration. You need an external VP or a good blu-ray player that has the controls this projector is lacking. When you tweak the offset you really changing all the other settings as well, that is why you find it screwy.
post #3004 of 4190
Well it looks like this on all of the different measurements I took except from 80-100% where the red and blue were a little bit closer to the green (different temperatures and gamma settings and without touching the offset).
So I guess all I have to do is try to tweak it a little bit better and leave it at that.

Thanks.
post #3005 of 4190
Quote:
Originally Posted by OzzieP View Post

You can't. This projector does not have enough control for full calibration. You need an external VP or a good blu-ray player that has the controls this projector is lacking. When you tweak the offset you really changing all the other settings as well, that is why you find it screwy.

Are you confusing primery/secondary color with graycsale?
What bluray offers such control?!! None!

He has tweaked his gray scale and RS2/clone has enough control for that.
post #3006 of 4190
EyalR,

Take a look at my attachment. This is my latest attempt at calibrating using ColorHCFR and the i1 Lite colorimeter. I used to use the Spyder2 but I've found this to be more consistant, accurate and faster. I don't have anything other than the software and i1.

If I can get results this good, you can too. Stick with it. I've had to monkey around with the settings a lot to get this far. On this particular calibration I chose to use the Memory1 setting and left Offset at 0 across the board. I decided on the best Contrast and Brightness settings based on the AVSHD Rec709 Disc. Then I used the software and colorimeter to determine the optimum settings for RGB Memory1 at 70IRE.

After that I went in to Gamma and tweaked the other IRE values. There's a lot of give and take and they all affect one another. It takes some time and patience. Once thing I found out is that if your original settings at 70IRE using Memory1 or 2 or the Offset isn't close to accurate, then no amount of tweaking in the Gamma area will do anything. You have to play around with it. I've used 60IRE and 50IRE as starting points as well.

Anyway, hope this helps.

Wayne

 

HP Laptop Rec709 July 21 09.doc 349k . file
post #3007 of 4190
Quote:
Originally Posted by CaspianM View Post

Are you confusing primery/secondary color with graycsale?
What bluray offers such control?!! None!

He has tweaked his gray scale and for that RS2/clone has enough control for that.

If one is trying to get good CMS you simply can not do it with the limited color controls on this projector. To get perfect gamut with this PJ you need and external VP, also many of the newer high end blu-ray players from Denon and Pioneer give you greater color control lattitude the this PJ. Now as far as greyscale my RS2 was as good as I could ever want out of the box.
post #3008 of 4190
Thanks Wayne,
How does your gamma look?
post #3009 of 4190
Quote:
Originally Posted by OzzieP View Post

If one is trying to get good CMS you simply can not do it with the limited color controls on this projector. To get perfect gamut with this PJ you need and external VP, also many of the newer high end blu-ray players from Denon and Pioneer give you greater color control lattitude the this PJ. Now as far as greyscale my RS2 was as good as I could ever want out of the box.

All he said was that he did his grayscale and you said "you can't". None sense.
FPJ1 doesn't has NO control over color decoder why do keep saying it has limited control.
Which pioneer bluray player offers CMS? Can you elaborate?
No RS2/fpj1 Out Of Box has good grayscale. I am sure it was good enough for you but off by a good margin.
post #3010 of 4190
Quote:
Originally Posted by CaspianM View Post

All he said was that he did his grayscale and you said "you can't". None sense.
FPJ1 doesn't has NO control over color decoder why do keep saying it has limited control.
Which pioneer bluray player offers CMS? Can you elaborate?
No RS2/fpj1 Out Of Box has good grayscale. I am sure it was good enough for you but off by a good margin.

I said "This projector does not have enough control for full calibration.", and
my greyscale was spot on out of the box by the way.
post #3011 of 4190
Quote:
Originally Posted by EyalR View Post

Thanks Wayne,
How does your gamma look?

It follows a smooth curve but ColorHCFR says it's below 2.6. Didn't someone say in this thread somewhere that you have to plug in 1.9 if you want 2.2?

Images on screen are incredible with great shadow detail. No crushed blacks or whites. Nice bright image yet good contrast. Nothing appears washed out. I think the 2.8 gain of my High Power screen might be messing with the software/colorimeter or something when it comes to the gamma curve.

Wayne
post #3012 of 4190
Quote:
Originally Posted by OzzieP View Post

Now as far as greyscale my RS2 was as good as I could ever want out of the box.

Ozzie,

You're lucky. Mine was off by quite a ways. Very watchable though. If I didn't have this software and measuring device I could have been satisfied with OTB settings and AVIA/DVE tweaking.

Wayne
post #3013 of 4190
What, in theory, would look better ( more vibrant) I dimmer projector on a HP screen 2.8 gain or a brighter projector on a 1.0 gain screen? Size under 100 inches. I recently found out that I am indeed a lumen fiend.
post #3014 of 4190
Does it matter how you tune the greyscale or all that matters is the final result?
If I get a pretty good result with setting the offset and playing a lot with the gamma curve should I try to get a good result with playing with the color tempreture and offset first and try to tweak the gamma settings as little as possible?

BTW I see that you tweaked the green as well, on the greyscale for dummies they say not to touch it, is this projector an exception?
post #3015 of 4190
Yes, the Gamma WRGB settings should be a final fine tuning. The major change should come from the CT and or Offset controls. I've found that the best way to go about this is to work on the color that's out the farthest first. In my case, blue was the worst so I used that control to go into the minus area I think around 85 or so. Then I chose to adjust green. This is the first projector that I've touched green. With my BenQ W5000 it wasn't necessary and it also didn't have direct 0 to 100 IRE adjustments either, only Gains and Cuts.

However, even though the Guide states not to fool around with green, I found that with this projector I had to in order to get anywhere close to D65. After green was tweaked I lastly tuned in the red. One way you'll know if you're anywhere close to accurate with the CT/Offset results is when you go to the Gamma WRGB controls and start working in there. If you find that you have to move anything to where it's drastically removed from the stock number then you probably need to go back and revisit your earlier work with CT/Offset.

After many tries, I found out that the Gamma controls are meant for small fine tuning only. If you start to move any of the controls in Gamma up or down and don't see the color bar in the software move in response after a few seconds then try one of the other colors. If there's very little movement unless you change the numbers in a huge way, then you're going to be in for a very long and frustrating session.

I'm not sure if there are different ways to the same result or not. With my unit, it seems that unless I have the CT/Offset red near zero, green around 40 below it and blue about 40 below green, I don't get anywhere with my calibrating efforts.

One thing that is very frustrating is the fact that you can't save different Gamma settings for different sources the way you can save Memory1 for HTPC or Memory 2 for BD for instance. Because of this I leave the final tweaked Gamma settings alone once I have them set for one of my sources and then only do CT with the other Memory for the other source and get it as close as possible. It seems to not end up as good as the best tweaks for source number one but it sure beats going in to the Gamma controls and re-setting all of those numbers just for watching one movie with a different source.

By the way, I never touch the Gamma W control because I don't really know what to do with it.

Wayne
post #3016 of 4190
Quote:
Originally Posted by mystery View Post

By the way, I never touch the Gamma W control because I don't really know what to do with it.

Wayne

Might try calibrating Gamma W before anything, then leaving it alone.....
post #3017 of 4190
With digital pj it is actually the red that remains at max or near initially and eventually at the max. In long haul it become red deficient and need green/blue adjusted.
Some change the bulb early due to red deficiency.
WRGB tweaks the entire gray curve (rather than R-G-B) at 5% piont intervals in order to flatten the curve.
post #3018 of 4190
Quote:
Originally Posted by notoriousmatty View Post

What, in theory, would look better ( more vibrant) I dimmer projector on a HP screen 2.8 gain or a brighter projector on a 1.0 gain screen? Size under 100 inches. I recently found out that I am indeed a lumen fiend.

In another thread you said your main issue is in dark not bright clips.
If so that is not a lumen whereas calibration/set up issue.
If you don't have a calibrating disk get one and calibrate your black level with (brightness, gamma and wgamma) for best shadow detail.
post #3019 of 4190
Yes, one should be calibrating for RGBW but in order to calibrate Gamma W one must have the option to adjust for both X and Y values, something I would have to ignore on my own projector although the option is there.
post #3020 of 4190
Quote:
Originally Posted by SteveMo View Post

Yes, one should be calibrating for RGBW but in order to calibrate Gamma W one must have the option to adjust for both X and Y values, something I would have to ignore on my own projector although the option is there.

In FPJ1 the X value are preset at 5% intervals and Y are user's adjustable.
post #3021 of 4190
Does anyone know a dealer who might still have the FPJ1 at a good price?
post #3022 of 4190
I am looking for a screen and was wondering what gain I should be looking at.
Projector is 18.5 feet from the screen and the sitting position is about 13 feet.
I would like to get a screen that is at least 120" diagonal.
Projector is the FPJ1.

Thanks for the help.
post #3023 of 4190
Quote:
Originally Posted by thegamer36 View Post

I am looking for a screen and was wondering what gain I should be looking at.
Projector is 18.5 feet from the screen and the sitting position is about 13 feet.
I would like to get a screen that is at least 120" diagonal.
Projector is the FPJ1.

Thanks for the help.

Depending on the money there aren't many gains to choose from.
Either unity gain or HP with 2.8. Now if you want stewart you have options.
For 120" unity gain might be on the dark side after the bulb get some hours.
Going HP has its compromises that need to be understood before purchase.
post #3024 of 4190
Wayne, I've tried your route but had to start tweaking the gamma a lot so I went back and tweaked my last settings.
Maybe the fact that my lamp is new (160 hours) makes it a lot different than yours. I'll measure it again in about 200 hours but for now I'm satisfied.

My only concern is that I've used my HTPC to play the AVS test disc and I watch movies mainly with my streamer. I'll have to check and see if there are differences.

Edit: it's the same.
post #3025 of 4190
Quote:
Originally Posted by mystery View Post

Yes, the Gamma WRGB settings should be a final fine tuning. The major change should come from the CT and or Offset controls. I've found that the best way to go about this is to work on the color that's out the farthest first. In my case, blue was the worst so I used that control to go into the minus area I think around 85 or so. Then I chose to adjust green. This is the first projector that I've touched green. With my BenQ W5000 it wasn't necessary and it also didn't have direct 0 to 100 IRE adjustments either, only Gains and Cuts.

However, even though the Guide states not to fool around with green, I found that with this projector I had to in order to get anywhere close to D65. After green was tweaked I lastly tuned in the red. One way you'll know if you're anywhere close to accurate with the CT/Offset results is when you go to the Gamma WRGB controls and start working in there. If you find that you have to move anything to where it's drastically removed from the stock number then you probably need to go back and revisit your earlier work with CT/Offset.

After many tries, I found out that the Gamma controls are meant for small fine tuning only. If you start to move any of the controls in Gamma up or down and don't see the color bar in the software move in response after a few seconds then try one of the other colors. If there's very little movement unless you change the numbers in a huge way, then you're going to be in for a very long and frustrating session.

I'm not sure if there are different ways to the same result or not. With my unit, it seems that unless I have the CT/Offset red near zero, green around 40 below it and blue about 40 below green, I don't get anywhere with my calibrating efforts.

One thing that is very frustrating is the fact that you can't save different Gamma settings for different sources the way you can save Memory1 for HTPC or Memory 2 for BD for instance. Because of this I leave the final tweaked Gamma settings alone once I have them set for one of my sources and then only do CT with the other Memory for the other source and get it as close as possible. It seems to not end up as good as the best tweaks for source number one but it sure beats going in to the Gamma controls and re-setting all of those numbers just for watching one movie with a different source.

By the way, I never touch the Gamma W control because I don't really know what to do with it.

Wayne

I just got the optical engine replaced in a customer's RS2 and all the factory default gamma settings (normal, Theater x, .... and all default custom) are toast. If I set 100% to D65, 10% is about 4800K. The unit went back and processor board was replaced, no change. The RS2 was sent back and after they put 20 hours on the projector, they came back with "it can be corrected in custom." The final result is I will have to significantly tweak the custom gamma to correct the grayscale uniformity while adjusting color temp to achieve D65.

It is apparent that with a lot of work, the grayscale and gamma can be adjusted to track very well from setting up a custom gamma memory. This requires adjustments way beyond those I have initially done in the RS2, including my own. It is apparent that the custom gamma creates its own LUT.
post #3026 of 4190
Quote:
Originally Posted by GlenC View Post

I just got the optical engine replaced in a customer's RS2 and all the factory default gamma settings (normal, Theater x, .... and all default custom) are toast. If I set 100% to D65, 10% is about 4800K. The unit went back and processor board was replaced, no change. The RS2 was sent back and after they put 20 hours on the projector, they came back with "it can be corrected in custom." The final result is I will have to significantly tweak the custom gamma to correct the grayscale uniformity while adjusting color temp to achieve D65.

It is apparent that with a lot of work, the grayscale and gamma can be adjusted to track very well from setting up a custom gamma memory. This requires adjustments way beyond those I have initially done in the RS2, including my own. It is apparent that the custom gamma creates its own LUT.

Doe's not sound like it is something easy for the average bear to do just becuase they have a spyder.
post #3027 of 4190
Quote:
Originally Posted by OzzieP View Post

Doe's not sound like it is something easy for the average bear to do just becuase they have a spyder.

I would agree, I already have hours into it and not close to the tolerances I desire.
post #3028 of 4190
Quote:
Originally Posted by GlenC View Post

I just got the optical engine replaced in a customer's RS2 and all the factory default gamma settings (normal, Theater x, .... and all default custom) are toast. If I set 100% to D65, 10% is about 4800K. The unit went back and processor board was replaced, no change. The RS2 was sent back and after they put 20 hours on the projector, they came back with "it can be corrected in custom." The final result is I will have to significantly tweak the custom gamma to correct the grayscale uniformity while adjusting color temp to achieve D65.

It is apparent that with a lot of work, the grayscale and gamma can be adjusted to track very well from setting up a custom gamma memory. This requires adjustments way beyond those I have initially done in the RS2, including my own. It is apparent that the custom gamma creates its own LUT.

Sounds like a bad optical engine too me if that is all they replaced created the tracking issue.
When you send a unit in need to keep fingers crossed.
post #3029 of 4190
Quote:
Originally Posted by CaspianM View Post

Sounds like a bad optical engine too me if that is all they replaced created the tracking issue.
When you send a unit in need to keep fingers crossed.

Problem is they put in a new engine and they will not put another one in, it's complicated when Japan is controlling things.
post #3030 of 4190
Quote:
Originally Posted by GlenC View Post

I just got the optical engine replaced in a customer's RS2 and all the factory default gamma settings (normal, Theater x, .... and all default custom) are toast. If I set 100% to D65, 10% is about 4800K. The unit went back and processor board was replaced, no change. The RS2 was sent back and after they put 20 hours on the projector, they came back with "it can be corrected in custom." The final result is I will have to significantly tweak the custom gamma to correct the grayscale uniformity while adjusting color temp to achieve D65.

It is apparent that with a lot of work, the grayscale and gamma can be adjusted to track very well from setting up a custom gamma memory. This requires adjustments way beyond those I have initially done in the RS2, including my own. It is apparent that the custom gamma creates its own LUT.

Sounds like a royal pain Glen. I've been scratching my head at all of the reviews I've read that stated the RS2 is so close to being accurate that a calibration is almost unnecessary. Maybe I'm picky but my unit although not horrible, was into the 7000 range OTB at the best combination of settings I could come up with. Again, could be far worse and it was very watchable but I don't like that 'Best Buy' look to in image with everything looking a tad on the blue side.

It's good to know that the RS2 can be corrected in home should something like what your customer experienced happen. Lots of time and patience though...

If you ever take a calibration tour anywhere near Michigan or NY State, pop over into Ontario and I'll make use of your expertise. I'm only a two hour drive from Detroit.

Wayne
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