RS2/ PRO-FPJ1 Owners: Setup Discussion Thread - Page 107

I got a setup question - sorry but first projector

So I went to projector central and set my screen -- 110 inches 1.3 gain

The site tells me that 14' 6" is the optimal distance. Now that is leaving the Zoom unchaged at 1.48.

This leaves me with 2 questions.

1) Is that 14.6 from the front of the projector or the middle or the back? The thing is 1.5ft long so that makes a difference

2) Is the 1.48 zoom "optimal" ? I can move the projector further back even though it would show the cable. I can live with that, but just trying to figure out what the best distance is

I will be absolute centered with the screen and the bottom of the lens will be about the top of the screen

Thanks!

With the RS2 I believe that it would be best to mount the projector as far back as possible, which increases the black levels and contrast of the projector.
Typically mounting distance is calculated from the screen to the lens.
Hope this helps and maybe some others will chime in.
You may want to use a ladder or something to test different distances, just be careful not to let the PJ fall :-(

OK I have a problem with my setup and now need to confirm that it is the projector and not the screen. Hoping for some suggestions. There are two white bands going across the screen (top to bottom). I took a picture last night and pointed out the one band. The other one is next to it on the left, but much narrower so didn't point it out. The screen was just put up 2 days ago - could it be the screen that is not stretched out yet? Could there be something on the lens or am I SOL and need to send the PJ back?

Appreciate any thoughts

http://s564.photobucket.com/albums/s...gefaxprint.jpg

Push the projector a little to the left if the stripe follows it's the projector if it stays put it's the screen.

Using the shift knob or zoom move the image and see if bands move as well.

This just hit me a few minutes ago as well. Will do this as soon as I get home.

Assuming it is the projector are there any suggested things I could do to see if it can be corrected?

I also plan on inverting the picture as if it was a table-standing projector to see if that changes anything

OK so I moved the picture with lens shift right and the banding stayed in place. I inverted the picture and same thing. I was going to change HDMI inputs etc, but based on initial results it doesn't seem to be the PJ.

So question 1) Can I rule out the PJ 100% or is there some other test that should be done?

2) Behind the screen is a black painted wall. There are no studs behind in the areas where the banding is (there is only one on the one side and it cannot be seen).

The screen is new - could this simply be from having just rolled it out? Should it improve or will it never get fixed?

Appreciate any thoughts and advice

If you moved the image and the bars stayed stationary on the screen, it's definitely not the PJ.

What kind of screen/screen material is it? If you can slide the screen left and right on the wall - for example, with a Carada - you can determine if it's the material or if you're getting a reflection from the wall behind the screen. If you determine it's definitely the screen material, I'd contact the manufacturer and I'd imagine they'd send you a replacement.

Send the screen back. It's a piece of fabric. It's not going to get better or worse.

Great suggestion. Will do this. Not to easy to slide it back and forth, but can be done and either way I can disconnect the bottom and move it a bit back and forth.

If the bar stays in place then it is the behind - if it moves it is the screen. - should have thought of that myself

Thanks - darn it 9 hours until I am done at work......

I have a couple of gamma questions as they relate to my FPJ1.

First, the background. My flattest gamma readings were at the lowest gamma setting (1.8 I believe), but they were way low (on a numerical scale I was getting average of less than 1.5 I think. I rechecked greyscale/gamma on every preset using my Eye1 LT and AVHCD and even at 2.6 gamma my average was 2.0 (and not flat). I have the ability to drop luma at 11 pts on my Vision HDP to bump the gamma up to 2.2, but it requires quite a big drop at the higher IRE end. When doing so, it seems like I am losing too much brightness, although the picture does look pretty nice and details looked great in my 10 minute test on Braveheart Blu ray. I ran out of time and have not quite flattened the gamma to a perfect 2.2 (I have an almost perfectly flat grey scale). So here are my questions:

1. What were your average gamma readings (please list the preset on the pj and the actual measured gamma average)?
2. Are my results atypical? Or is the RS-2 FPJ1 significantly off on gamma with too much Luma across the board, but especially on the high IRE end?
3. If atypical, could this be a bad light meter? Or do I simply have contrast set to high (I had it at 0)? Or what could be causing this?

Edit:

I found at least one review of the RS-1/RS-2 that showed initial gamma pretty low like mine (between 1.7 and 1.9). Looks like this might be typical, and with the RS-2 / FPJ1 it can be adjusted in the pj and, in my case, more easily in the Lumagen as I have done (mostly). So with that in mind, what have you all found to be the best "true" gamma settings (i.e., not the 2.4 preset with 5 pt bump at 10 IRE)? Do most of you run at a true 2.2, 2.25, 2.4 or a custom non-flat one (like 2.2 at low IRE and 2.4 at high)? For reference, I presently have a light controlled room, but it is not a batcave. For at least a few more months I have light carpet, reasonably dark walls and ceiling (but not black), with some off-white columns / bass traps that do reflect some light back to the screen. A batcave is in my future, however, and would already be done if the ceiling were square and not cut off at a down angle in 1 difficult corner... but I digress.

http://www.displaycalibrationonline.com/reviews_rs1.asp

Well this is what is happening.

I went home - moved the screen and the bars moved. Turned on the lights and started really closely examining the screen and found the bars in it. The PJ was off but I realized that there was a shade difference going from top to bottom in a few places. Now I had only seen a couple of those when the PJ was on so was surprised that there were more.

Called the Vendor and AVS and an hour or so later they said no problems sending a new screen, so sorry it happened etc.

Great customer service so far - do wish the screen had been better inspected when it was sent, but as long as it gets fixed at no cost to me then I will be happy

Good that you know now.

Hi people. I have an issue with the European model KRF-9000FD. I'm trying to calibrate this one (using Calman) and have trouble getting the colortemp straight.
Initially, out of the box without changing settings. For the eye the 10IRE testscreen looks reddish.Measurement confirms, from 40IRE and down I have excessive increasing red (from 100 to 140%). From 40IRE to 100IRE red slowly falls down to 90%.
At the same time, blue and green are very low from 40IRE and lower (going down from 100% to 80%). Above 40IRE blue and green are reasonable straight, slowly increasing to 110%.
With the Colortemp Manual settings and the Offset settings I'm trying to get RGB in line and to get the colortemp as it should be. I've also tried with low contrast settings and different gammes settings. Nothing changes the way red behaves. Either it's reasonable okay above 40IRE, but then excessive high values below 40IRE. Or I have it reasonable okay below 40IRE, but then above 40IRE it falls down to 65% at 100IRE. Blue/green also keep the same behaviour.
So, I can't get a straight horizontal colortemp behaviour. Someone suggestions whats going on here?

Yes, your results are typical.

First, did you calibrate 100 IRE yet? I had to drop blue by over 100 points and green by 70 some points to get white spot on. Do this first in a User 1 or User 2 setting and save. This should be the only time you use the colortemp settings. Do not use the color offsets at all. They mess up other things.

If you do not have an external VP like a Lumagen to correct the colorspace, then you may also want to reduce color saturation by about 10 points. Retest white at this point, or do this one first. Having spot on colors looks a bit dull for about 10 seconds... until you realize what you are looking at now looks real.

Next, test your grey scale and gamma. If you do not have an external VP like a Lumagen, then your best bet is to use the RGB custom gamma that the RS-2 / FPJ1 has onboard. Go to gamma, custom, and then you will see there are separate settings for W,R,B,G. Bump each color gamma at each of the 10 pt IRE scales to get flat grey scale. Then reduce/increase white gamma (which should move each of R,G,B in unison) to get your flat gamma curve.

Disclaimer: This is how I think you would do it using the onboard controls. This is how I did it using my Lumagen. You may not be able to get a perfectly flat grey scale and gamma with the onboard controls, but you can get a lot better than out of the box or any preset settings.

Well I missed out on the B-stock deal a little while back as buying a new pj while out of work would not have set well with the better half

Instead I am now ending up with a NIB RS2.

Initially I am just going to run with my parkland plastic screen, but will probably look into something better down the road. Given this, is it worthwhile to have any calibration work done now?

I'm sure that's what I will do.

I've had this screen setup for 3 years with my CRT PJ and haven't given any thought to changing it. So I'm betting I'll be perfectly happy with it

I picked up one of the refurb RS2 and finally got around to setting up and watching. I upgraded from the Sony vw100 Ruby pj. It was there on the black levels but everything else I think I actually prefer the Ruby. My biggest complaint with the RS2 is the sharpness or focus. Seems like there is a filter or fuzz to the picture almost like it is out of focus. I have been playing with the focus and it is driving me crazy that I get seem to get the picture in focus. Also I don't understand why the only way to focus it is in the menu with the boxes. Shots of screen credits or on espn with the bottom scroll and stats on screen seem to be awfully bad and inconsistent. While the score board at bottom or top of screen might be clear the stats on screen appear very fuzzy and out of focus, or vice-versa What would you all suggest as the best way of improving on the focus and shaprness of the pic for the RS2?

Is there a big thumb-print on your lens?

Shots of screen credits or on espn with the bottom scroll and stats on screen seem to be awfully bad and inconsistent. While the score board at bottom or top of screen might be clear the stats on screen appear very fuzzy and out of focus.[/quote]


Do you see a pink outer line around the letters why the letters or scrolling?

Hopefully that was not the reason that particular unit was returned and refurbished in the first place.

Ok, I took a closer look at my lens and it looks like there are smudges on the lens and appears to be cloudy type spots.

Also looks like there are some scratches around the outside part of the lens so I assume the refurb part involved some sort of issue with the lens??

Any ways, what's the best way to clean the smudges/cloudiness off the lens? Tomorrow during lunch, I'm thinking of going to a camera store or should I be looking at eyeglass cleaner (Visionworks?).

Took a flash light for closer look and it looks like some of it might be inside the lens.

hopefully not inside!!

I currently have an OPtoma H78 with a Prismasonic 600 lens projecting onto a Carada BW 117.5" wide cinemascope screen. I'm thinking of upgrading to an RS2.

I have some questions for anyone that may have done this

1. I want to use the RS2 min zoom. How will my brightness compare to what I have now. One of the reasons for upgrading is to move the PJ to the back of the room. Where it is now people keep banging their heads on its shelf

2. I believe the Optoma also has oversaturated reds. Will the RS2 be similar? I don't mimd the OPtomas colors

3. I have always liked the pop and sharpness of DLP but I'm getting sick of rainbows. I'm thinking the jump to 1080p will make up for the loss in sharpness and at least even out. Is this what others have found?

4. Any other observations that would help me

Hey,

I went from the Sharpvision XYZ-12000U 720P DLP to the Cineversum (RS-2 clone).

I have never looked back.

Mine is on minimum zoom. 5 meters back and 88 inch screen. DILA was brighter. Allmost too bright it showed ever blemish on the screen. I stuck a point 6ND filter on to tone down the brightness.

Rainbows are gone.

Going from 720P to DILA 1080P was sharper and more detailed.

I have never noticed colour problems and using Digital Essentials on Blu-ray has shown the colours were better than the Sharp vision. (warning mine is a Cineversum which is a tweaked RS2 but with a price premium. Colours have been factory tweaked by Cineversum/Barco technicians for beter contrast and colours)

Hope this helps.

Ta Dono

Had a couple of H77/H78 a few years back.
Nice machine in its day.

Your only concern should be getting a good RS2 ie. good color uniformity across greyscale and no bright corners. Otherwise brighter, sharper, smoother, etc.
If you hate rainbows you will love the stability of the image that RS2 produces.

I have a JVC 720p RP tv in another room and I like the picture it produces. It sucks for black level, but the colors and stability of the image are nice. That's one of the reasons I think I'd like a RS2

what screen are you using? gain? your 88 inches is Wide or Diagonal?

i'm planning a 120" wide 2:35 screen and trying to decide on material. probably going to start ordering up some samples.

thx.