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RS2/ PRO-FPJ1 Owners: Setup Discussion Thread - Page 109

post #3241 of 4190
10/14/09 at 7:01pm
Time and higher priority projects get in the way of any DIY options right now, which is one of the reasons I'm also considering a Jamestown.

I haven't looked, but I'm guessing the Da-Lite JKP Affinity is quite a bit more than I'm willing to budget for a screen
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post #3242 of 4190
10/14/09 at 9:02pm
Joseph,
Don't know anything about Jamestown but I HIGHLY recommend Carada as do many others.
My first screen in 2003 was a Carada and imo for the money they cannot be beat in terms of price, quality, options and service
Take a gander at the screen forum. A lot of happy customers.
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post #3243 of 4190
10/14/09 at 9:05pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by wes k View Post

So can anyone suggest to me settings for a black screen?

Thanks

Wes

Or maybe a grey screen without the white tint in it?
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post #3244 of 4190
10/15/09 at 7:26pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by wes k View Post

Or maybe a grey screen without the white tint in it?

Who Knows, who cares. Stop asking the question. It is mute.

No one is using a black screen.

You can't even compare between white screens.

Buy yourself a Screen and a Test disc and set it up.

Ta

Dono
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post #3245 of 4190
10/15/09 at 7:53pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Badas View Post

Who Knows, who cares. Stop asking the question. It is mute.

No one is using a black screen.

You can't even compare between white screens.

Buy yourself a Screen and a Test disc and set it up.

Ta

Dono

My, my. Touchy. I was just hoping for a little help which is why I came back and asked about grey.

It looks great on black by the way. Just would like some help with fine tuning.

Go to bed.

Wes
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post #3246 of 4190
10/18/09 at 4:47pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by wes k View Post

My, my. Touchy. I was just hoping for a little help which is why I came back and asked about grey.

It looks great on black by the way. Just would like some help with fine tuning.

Go to bed.

Wes

Like I said. Buy a test disc. You can't even compare between white screens. There is too many variables. Such as Gain, Size, Throw distance, High Lamp and even differences in lamps.

Buy a Test Disc like Digital Video Essentials on Blu-ray and it will help with whatever Screen or setup you may have.

Ta

Dono
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post #3247 of 4190
10/21/09 at 3:54pm
I'm at about 1500 hours on my first lamp on my KRF-9000FD (EU model) and tonight the lamp started to slowly flicker and look a bit unstable in normal lamp mode. It is one flicker about every 10-20 seconds. (It looks as if the contrast is lowered about 10 steps) Switching to high lamp mode eliminates the problem but is comes back in low lamp mode. Previously this has happened one time but then it dissapeared completely by switching to high mode and back to normal again. You think a new lamp will solve the issue? I'm thinking 1500 hours is still pretty good for a lamp rated at 2000 hours?
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post #3248 of 4190
10/21/09 at 4:18pm
Sorry in advance if this has been specifically addressed, but this thread is really long and my search didn't yield any decent answer...

I will likely be buying an RS1, RS2, or FPJ1 shortly. I will install it in a fully contained hushbox. This is partly for sound, but mostly for protection from my kids and a clean look (it's finished in cherry like my speakers).

Currently I have a Sharp XV Z10000U DLP, and have both an exhaust and a supply vent to the box with in-line fans mounted far away and hooked up via a cheap attic thermostat that sits near the PJ.

My question is: How is the RS1,2,FPJ1 vented for intake/exhaust?

Looking at the manual, it appears as though there's and intake on the front left (looking at the PJ from the front) and also on that same side on the bottom. Then there is a single exhaust on the front right (again, looking at the PJ from the front).

Am I correct?

Thanks all.
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post #3249 of 4190
10/21/09 at 5:19pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Drem View Post

I'm at about 1500 hours on my first lamp on my KRF-9000FD (EU model) and tonight the lamp started to slowly flicker and look a bit unstable in normal lamp mode. It is one flicker about every 10-20 seconds. (It looks as if the contrast is lowered about 10 steps) Switching to high lamp mode eliminates the problem but is comes back in low lamp mode. Previously this has happened one time but then it dissapeared completely by switching to high mode and back to normal again. You think a new lamp will solve the issue? I'm thinking 1500 hours is still pretty good for a lamp rated at 2000 hours?

how long did you leave it in high lamp mode? try leaving it there longer before switching back to low.
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post #3250 of 4190
10/21/09 at 8:06pm
dave7,
You're correct on the RS2 venting but my question would be, other than looks, I've had no issues with the RS2's noise level and I have a very quiet room, dedicated room. Mounting fans on the hushbox will create more noise.

Now if your main concern is protection then I can see the point.
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post #3251 of 4190
10/21/09 at 8:35pm
Thanks for the confirmation.

I've already got the venting system in place and it's worked perfectly for years now...other than sometimes the fans run too long since the thermostats are set too low. I'd have to reverse the air direction for the new projector, but that's not hard.

The fans are in adjacent rooms. I can only hear one fan in my upstair office, but in the theater itself, you can't hear them at all. It's a nice conservative heat protection...total overkill I know, but I do that a lot - and I'm OK with it.

My room doubles as a recreation room for my kids and general family. It keeps the mess to a tolerable level when unexpected guests arrive for the rest of the home.

Still, as a two channel/HT room, it is quite durable and practical. I've even gone to the extreme of having it acoustically certified, but it doesn't look abnormal.

I've taken a year sabbatical from A/V, and am interested in updating and enjoying again. Even looking at doing a Seymour Acoustic curved screen and putting my center up at ear level. It's a small theater for most of those looking here (I'll be about 9' from the screen), but I like fabricating my own bits and having it look truly right.

Ideally, I could have a third Legacy Whisper as my center channel. That would make some 3-ch SACD listening really interesting. (please - no SACD is Dead comments...I know that already)

Thanks again Milt99...
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post #3252 of 4190
10/22/09 at 12:02am
Quote:
Originally Posted by drewski11 View Post

how long did you leave it in high lamp mode? try leaving it there longer before switching back to low.

Maybe 10 minutes. I will try again tonight. If all else fails, I will order a new lamp.
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post #3253 of 4190
10/22/09 at 5:48am
I hate to bring up screens again, but has anyone here tried an Acoustically Transparent screen? Please don't get mad Wes , I did a search and came up empty so far. As mentioned above, for some reason the Seymour material has caught my interest, especially as a DIY winter project. I think a curved screen would look pretty slick if finished nicely, and having a third main, or a center up behind the image would make for a clean looking install.
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post #3254 of 4190
10/22/09 at 6:45am
Quote:
Originally Posted by dave7 View Post

I hate to bring up screens again, but has anyone here tried an Acoustically Transparent screen?

Funny you should ask.
I've been using the original SMX material for a little over 3 years and received the Seymour XD material last weekend.
The plan is to mount it on my frame tonight.
If you haven't already, check out the Seymour thread in the screens forum.
mrlittlejeans is building a seymour screen.
Personally I like AT screens for the seamless\\coherent soundstage. My HT room also does multiple duty for music.
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post #3255 of 4190
10/22/09 at 6:53am
I have the same duty in my room (HT/Audio), plus the family recreation room (dare I say reck room).

I just saw your posting over there on the Seymour thread. Didn't notice you being in both places until just now.

Cool - you can be my guinea pig.
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post #3256 of 4190
10/22/09 at 8:30am
Thread Starter 
Ditto on the SMX AT screen. Buy the material alone, make your own screen, good to go.

Chris
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post #3257 of 4190
10/22/09 at 8:35am
I just got my RS-2. I'm about 2 years late to the party. But it looks great... "an uninterrupted stream of fantastic images of extraordinary plasticity ... accompanied by an intense, kaleidoscopelike play of colors." A big improvement from my AW10. The 2010 crop of projectors was sort of interesting. But (other than high end Sony and JVC) they just can't touch the 2008 RS-2, which can now be scooped up at a comparable price to the HW15 or TW-8500. Now wading through the 3200 posts here to get some approximate settings. May try to calibrate with Eye-1 some time.
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post #3258 of 4190
10/22/09 at 9:32am
Toe, make sure you try Alan's gamma tweak. Very nice.
I also used the Spears-Munsil disc.
In addition to having some killer video and test patterns, it also has some great test material that shows the performance of your entire video chain.
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post #3259 of 4190
10/22/09 at 11:29am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Drem View Post

Maybe 10 minutes. I will try again tonight. If all else fails, I will order a new lamp.




Leave it in High lamp mode for a couple of hours(watch a movie) and then swiitch it back.


Below is a quote from Bob Williams, a projector engineer who used to work for Infocus. I believe he currently works for Planar/Runco.



Quote:


Lamp Flicker

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
To understand lamp flicker, you need to know a little about how mercury arc lamps work. First of all, there is no filament (a thin, typically tungsten wire) inside of an arc lamp. Instead, there are two tungsten electrodes spaced a small distance apart (called the arc gap) in a mercury vapor. When the lamp strikes, this gap is bridged by a plasma arc. This plasma arc, running at over 7000 degrees Celsius, is the light source of the projection system. Over time, the plasma arc slowly burns away the electrodes, causing the gap to get larger and the projector to get dimmer (the smaller the arc the better the lamp reflector collects the light). This burning also causes the electrodes to become smooth and this smoothness leads to a tendency for the arc to move around, jumping from spot to spot as it tries to find its least energy point. Plasma arcs are lazy and always hunt for the smallest distance between the electrodes to conserve energy. As the electrodes wear back, there can exist situations where there are two such places on the electrodes. The jumping back and forth between these two places is known as arc-jump, and is the predominant form of lamp flicker that will be seen in our products.

Lamp flicker takes the form of a brightening and darkening of the image at irregular intervals. This issue can be confused with some copy protection methods on DVDs and video tapes which cause a brightening and darkening at regular intervals. If you think you are seeing lamp flicker, the best way to make sure is to confirm that it still occurs when watching the projector's internally generated blank screen (push the blank button on the remote), and that way you know it is not in your source. Also, if you occasionally see very quick flashes of light in the image similar to a strobe effect, then this is probably not lamp flicker.

All currently available ScreenPlay projectors have circuitry inside to reduce or eliminate lamp flicker. This circuitry varies the current to the lamp in such a way that the smoothing of the electrodes is interrupted, so that lamp flicker is almost totally eliminated. However, even though the probability for lamp flicker is reduced, it still can occur in rare situations.

For the ScreenPlay 4805, if you observe lamp flicker, there are a number of things you can do.

1.Wait. Once the electrodes burn back a little more the lamp flicker should go away.
2.Go to high power mode. Changing the power setting of the projector will usually cause the arc to stabilize because the arc will take a slightly different shape due to the mercury convection changes around the arc. If you leave the projector at this power setting for a number of hours, the electrodes will be reshaped slightly and the lowest energy point will move. Once it moves, then you can return to low power and the flicker will be gone.
3.Magnetic fields and gravity also affect the arc, so moving the projector, turning it upside down, or even putting a magnet against it can stabilize the arc in a different location. Again, leaving it in this way for a while will allow you to use it while the electrodes reshape themselves.
4.If the lamp is within warranty, InFocus will replace it.

__________________
Bob Williams
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post #3260 of 4190
10/22/09 at 12:35pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by smithfarmer View Post

Leave it in High lamp mode for a couple of hours(watch a movie) and then swiitch it back.


Below is a quote from Bob Williams, a projector engineer who used to work for Infocus. I believe he currently works for Planar/Runco.

Thanks, very informative.
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post #3261 of 4190
10/22/09 at 2:30pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Drem View Post

Thanks, very informative.

You're welcome. I found it pretty interesting and informative as well and since I see quite a few posts on the subject I saved it for future reference. Hopefully it solves your lamp flicker.
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post #3262 of 4190
10/22/09 at 4:01pm
Hi Guy's

In New Zealand we don't have many options for screens. No Stewart, Carada. NZ is a great/beutiful place to live, but sometimes I feel like we are a dot in the middle of the Pacific Ocean. Australia is a bit bigger dot.

However we can get Vu-Tec or Da-Lite.

I have a 88" diagonal Da-Lite 16x9 Cinescreen. It is quiet good however I am looking at going to a Vu-Tec 100" 16x9 specs below:

Vu-Tec 1.1 gain 100" Screen.

Has anyone had some experience / comments?

I will be using my 0.6 ND filter also

Projector is mounted 5.2 meters back.

Ta

Dono
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post #3263 of 4190
10/23/09 at 6:29am
Quote:
Originally Posted by dave7 View Post

I hate to bring up screens again, but has anyone here tried an Acoustically Transparent screen? Please don't get mad Wes , I did a search and came up empty so far. As mentioned above, for some reason the Seymour material has caught my interest, especially as a DIY winter project. I think a curved screen would look pretty slick if finished nicely, and having a third main, or a center up behind the image would make for a clean looking install.

Cool with me. I was just looking for some help with using a black screen. I had seen it mentioned somewhere on the forums here of some using black and being happy with it. I am so far along with my wife and kids.

I will get a blue ray calibration disc and report my results in a week or two.

Thanks

Wes
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post #3264 of 4190
10/26/09 at 8:52pm
Just thought I chime in and say that my "new" RS2X and Seymour XD look great.
I'm happy with what I paid for a NIB RS2 and considering the total absence of RS10\\20 demos,B-stock, and NIB I think I got in under the last wire.
The JVC is a pleasure to watch but as with any high resolution item, great sources look great and not-so-great sources look not great at all.
Fox "HD" is a f'ing joke.
Used the SpearsMunsil disc for testing and setup.
The convergence is off on Red by a 1/4 pixel on the left side.
Futzed with the pixel adjust but as everyone knows one click looks good here and worse there, so I just left it at the defaults.
I've done the gamma tweak and am looking forward to a friend setting the grey scale and a couple of other things.
For an obsolete piece of gear this pj looks beautiful.
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post #3265 of 4190
10/27/09 at 5:11am
Milt99 - I'm running a little behind you. Just ordered an FPJ1 with 9 hours on it last night and finalized my XD screen with Chris yesterday (90" wide). Glad to hear you are liking it. I'm making my own screen frame because of my particular installation, and it'll be flat, not curved like I mentioned above, based upon conversation with Chris (very helpful guy).

I have a question for all though - is the gamma tweak what's covered in the original post more than 3200 posts ago? Are the other adjustments in that first post still relevant, or are there some "updates"?

I won't be setting mine up and running for another two weeks, but I'd like to get whatever test disks and line up anything else I'll need for set-up...or maybe I'll just hire someone...naa.

Any suggestions for test disks would be appreciated. I have DVE HD Basics Blu-ray now, maybe that's all I need.

Thanks all-
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post #3266 of 4190
10/27/09 at 10:14am
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by dave7 View Post

I have a question for all though - is the gamma tweak what's covered in the original post more than 3200 posts ago? Are the other adjustments in that first post still relevant, or are there some "updates"?

Any suggestions for test disks would be appreciated. I have DVE HD Basics Blu-ray now, maybe that's all I need.

That 2.4 gamma tweak in the first post pretty much still applies. I have about 450 hrs. or so on my RS2 now and the 2.4 tweak still looks great. The BR DVE will work fine.

Chris
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post #3267 of 4190
10/27/09 at 4:52pm
Question for the experts here. I have the fpj-1 for over a year now and it has been great. Currently, I have a 25 feet long HDMI cable (24 awg) from the projector to an HDMI switching receiver. Everything works well this way. Well, I tried to run a 25 ft HDMI cable (no idea what awg is but likely 28 awg) from my laptop to the receiver and I cannot get any signal to the projector. Has anyone have any luck with running a HDMI cable ~50ft and get it to work? I wonder if I should use a thicker gauge for the 2nd cable.

Thanks
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post #3268 of 4190
10/27/09 at 5:07pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by androgelrx View Post

Question for the experts here. I have the fpj-1 for over a year now and it has been great. Currently, I have a 25 feet long HDMI cable (24 awg) from the projector to an HDMI switching receiver. Everything works well this way. Well, I tried to run a 25 ft HDMI cable (no idea what awg is but likely 28 awg) from my laptop to the receiver and I cannot get any signal to the projector. Has anyone have any luck with running a HDMI cable ~50ft and get it to work? I wonder if I should use a thicker gauge for the 2nd cable.

Thanks

i would guess the receiver is also acting as an HDMI repeater so it's not the equivalent of a straight 50 ft cable and signal strength should be pretty good leaving it if it was good coming in.. try running the cable from the laptop directly to the FPJ1 and see if that works.
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post #3269 of 4190
10/29/09 at 12:33pm
I'm a late newcomer. When Jason was selling the B-stock RS2's I thought I missed. But Jason came through (hope he doesn't mind me plugging how I felt he went out of his way, great guy to speak with) Great deal and he's calibrating it for me. Can't wait to get it.

I'm going from a Panasonic AE900 4 years old but only 650 hours. I've heard it will be a jaw dropping experience, can't wait.

Anyways, the projector mount for my panasonic is an aluminum mount that can hold 30lbs. Like this one

http://cgi.ebay.com/UNIVERSAL-PROJEC...item562b341430

Anybody want to chime in? I don't want this dropping on the floor
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post #3270 of 4190
10/29/09 at 1:32pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hagar View Post

I'm a late newcomer. When Jason was selling the B-stock RS2's I thought I missed. But Jason came through (hope he doesn't mind me plugging how I felt he went out of his way, great guy to speak with) Great deal and he's calibrating it for me. Can't wait to get it.

I'm going from a Panasonic AE900 4 years old but only 650 hours. I've heard it will be a jaw dropping experience, can't wait.

Anyways, the projector mount for my panasonic is an aluminum mount that can hold 30lbs. Like this one

http://cgi.ebay.com/UNIVERSAL-PROJEC...item562b341430

Anybody want to chime in? I don't want this dropping on the floor

the RS2 is ~25lbs so is within the range. just make sure it's solidly connected to a joist or other structural member and not just held up by some drywall anchors and you should be fine.
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