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RS2/ PRO-FPJ1 Owners: Setup Discussion Thread - Page 116

post #3451 of 4190
Quote:
Originally Posted by xb1032 View Post

That was my understanding as well be try it out. and it will be immediately obvious to you. Loss of detail on my FPJ1, the Pioneer 6010 & 6020 plasmas I had and the Samsung B650 LCD that I have now. I lose quite a bit of detail with RGB set to full.

Thanks I will give it a go. Hell if it improves detail I am all for it.

Are all your other settings the same as mine?
post #3452 of 4190
Damn ... your right ... I just found this on blu-ray.com

"Use of the RGB limited range setting takes the recorded video levels from disc to the RGB output. Digital Video is defined to only use the digital range of 16 to 235 for R, B and G information. However the RGB "full range" setting re-maps the 16 to 235 video levels to a wider range of digital values as used for PC monitors, i.e, using the range 0 to 255. For most HDTVs, "limited' is the correct setting as this should look correct."
post #3453 of 4190
Quote:
Originally Posted by tilallr1 View Post

Thanks I will give it a go. Hell if it improves detail I am all for it.

Are all your other settings the same as mine?

I believe so. I think I may have the cross color reduction filter turned on but frankly I'm not sure how much that actually affects PQ and I've never really looked into it.

I remember the RGB range now. I have my PC and PS3 connected to my TV/projector and it's a pain having to set the HDMI level back and forth on the TV between HDMI level normal/low to compensate between the RGB range on a regular basis. I only watch movies on the projector so I never have to worry about that issue with it.

Your picture should look a bit better now on your Pioneer now.
post #3454 of 4190
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jason Turk View Post

As a general rule figure RS2's in the $2000ish range. Why? We just sold (well 6 months ago) JVC's last lot of RS2 refurb's for $2399 with virtually no hours and full warranty. That sort of set the market.

Drat! Had I but been in the market and known... sigh...

My Epson 8500 is going back for a full refund. In addition to the SDE which I just couldn't ignore from my 1.5 screen width, it developed that dreaded "red line" defect after the first day I had it with only 4 hours on the bulb. Sheesh.

I really want the silky-smooth LCOS image back again. A used RS2 or FPJ1 would be ideal. Anybody know of any going for around $2500? Any with warranty?

I still have my HD2K so I can live a while longer while I look around for the right item at the right price.

Jason,

any new deals coming along I should wait for? Please PM or email me if there's something I should know. thanks!
post #3455 of 4190
Quote:
Originally Posted by tilallr1 View Post

I have noticed it alot too and just read about the Video setting. I am going to try it out tonight as well and report back if I see an improvement.

Also was curious if most of you forced the 24Hz(p) setting ON or left it to Auto. I am assuming NO one has set it OFF. Right? As most blu-ray's if not all are encoded at 24p ... right?

Awesome news, this seemed to have totally eliminate the motion blur problem for me. Tried it on a couple bad motion blur films and its much much better. I will continue to watch for it, but I think its gone now.

This now explains to me why some people saw it and others didn't. Since this setting may not even be on some players and if they are it may have been disabled.

Also, regarding the full and limited setting. I think full looks better and actually when comparing had actually more black level detail. Is it because limited needs more brightening or something? What is your brightness level or gamma settings with it set at limited?

Let me know thanks.
post #3456 of 4190
Quote:
Originally Posted by curt248 View Post

I posted this previously in the rs1 forum, but I really am in a quandary about what projector to spend my money on. Any incite would be greatly appreciated.

It looks like a used RS1 goes for less than $2000 and the epson after rebate goes for ~$2300.

I'd really like the best bang for my buck. The epson seems to be the best under $3000 current projector out there based on my scouring of the internet for reviews and opinions. The better black level is what really sells this model for me. I'm not sure if I'd need the interpolation or sharpness enhancers available on the 8500ub, but they wouldn't hurt I suppose. Some stuff might be nice with it like standard dvd's. I have a lot of those (over 400) but I really have only been watching blurays for the last year and a half on my sony 55in rear projection lcd with 720p (the 17in deep one). I don't need the 2.35 to 16:9 autozoom that the panny ae4000 offers and that model seems to be a little to dim for the 120in screen I plan on using.

The RS1 seems to be a really good model based on my internet searching. I don't have the budget setup for a $4000 (price for new rs10) pj. I like the added brightness to the calibrated screen which would allow for bigger screens (maybe bigger than the 120in). I'm not sure the older RS1 is brighter than the epson 8500ub though since most comparisons are to the same year models like the rs2 or rs10. I love the idea of even better blacks. I'm not sure how the picture of the new 8500ub (just released the fall of 2009) would hold up to the older RS1. I know the black levels have been improving on the epson series since the 6500 (about the same time as the rs1 came out I believe.

I was also wondering if the lack of deep color or other features that are present in hdmi 1.3 (which the rs1 lacks) are significant in the image on screen or if they are mostly theoretical?

The warranty on a new model would be nice. Also the 4000 hour lamp life of the epson is a plus.

My main goal is the best picture though. I will have a fully light controlled environment. I will be watching blu-rays about 90% of the time in the dedicated theater room.

I'd like to have a quality unit like the RS1.

What do you guys think? Has anyone compared the two projectors? Should I set my sites on a used rs2 or rs10? I'm currently leaning a bit torwards the new epson, but could be swayed if the picture quality is noticeably better than the epson on the rs1. This is really hard to do without seeing any of the projectors in person. Even then, there are so many variables that a side by side comparison would be the only way to determine which looks better in each situation.

I was in exactly the same situation.

Don't get the Espon. It does have great color and contrast, but the SDE is visible as a "haze" in bright areas like skies and clouds even when you're at 1.5 screen widths. I can't ignore it now that I've lived with the LOCS JVC HD2K for the past 1.5 years. I think that lots of the enthusiasm for that PJ comes from folks who have always owned LCD or for whom it's their first PJ... they would tend not to see the SDE haze because they wouldn't have mental reference point for a smooth white-field projection.

Also, the Epson 8500 I just bought (how I know all of this) is going back Monday because of the dreaded "red line" problem. Ugh. And folks are getting replacements from Epson that have the same problem! So rather than have to deal with that, I'd pick a different PJ unless the SDE issue might not bother you (or you were going to watch from 1.65 + screen widths) and you were willing to wait a while for Epson to figure out what's going wrong with the *many* PJs they're shipping that are having this really troublesome problem so they can fix whatever is causing it.

I'm going to spend some time with a Pioneer FPJ1 tomorrow, and having just had a serious session with the Epson, I think that my impressions will be pretty good to compare even without a direct A/B shootout. I'll post back my thoughts here soon.

dave
post #3457 of 4190
Does anyone know what the PS3 super white setting does?

Cheers, Ian
post #3458 of 4190
I wanted to add my 2cents. My RS2 since I've had it for 2 months has been the best $2200 I spent now. At first I think I was expecting a night and day difference. Instead what you get is a subtle realization that you are looking at a picture that will find you in amazement. I came from a Panasonic AE900.

Even my wife said the other day she was so impressed with the picture detail, color and vibrant look.

Now I've been thinking of getting one of these videoEQ pro to fine tune the slight oversaturation (especially red) but the thought of spending $1800 for the video EQ pro and then the claMAN version 4 with a eye 1 pro means I would have CMS and a good one to boot and a box and program to calibrate my other displays.

I toyed with would I be better off selling this one for $2500 (65 hours and two year warranty) and I know that $1800 plus $2500 is only $4300 and I'm short another $1100 but hey were talking a brighter pic, built in CMS. I was thinking the JVC DLA RS35/HD950.

Nahhhh, my RS2 is simply gorgeous. and VideoEQ here I come. Waiting on a review before I take a plunge.

Dave
post #3459 of 4190
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hagar View Post

I wanted to add my 2cents. My RS2 since I've had it for 2 months has been the best $2200 I spent now. At first I think I was expecting a night and day difference. Instead what you get is a subtle realization that you are looking at a picture that will find you in amazement. I came from a Panasonic AE900.

Even my wife said the other day she was so impressed with the picture detail, color and vibrant look.

Now I've been thinking of getting one of these videoEQ pro to fine tune the slight oversaturation (especially red) but the thought of spending $1800 for the video EQ pro and then the claMAN version 4 with a eye 1 pro means I would have CMS and a good one to boot and a box and program to calibrate my other displays.

I toyed with would I be better off selling this one for $2500 (65 hours and two year warranty) and I know that $1800 plus $2500 is only $4300 and I'm short another $1100 but hey were talking a brighter pic, built in CMS. I was thinking the JVC DLA RS35/HD950.

Nahhhh, my RS2 is simply gorgeous. and VideoEQ here I come. Waiting on a review before I take a plunge.

Dave

Too bad you missed out on the EAP for the VideoEQ because it was a great deal. Still, the VideoEQ Pro can be found for less than the $1200 MSRP (it's not $1800) and you won't need to buy Calman 4 Enthusiast either. The VideoEQ comes with software for controlling CMS. You're still going to need calibration software and a meter no matter if it's built in or through an external processor like the VideoEQ. Keep that in mind when comparing costs between a JVC with CMS and one without coupled with the VideoEQ Pro.

Since I already find the PQ of the FPJ1 pretty darn good, I'll live with the EAP VideoEQ Pro, HFCR and i1 LT for substantially less. Of course, going with a i1 pro and Calman 4 Enthusiast combo should give the best results and can be used on future PJs. I just can't justify spending another $1,000 for this combo over the i1 LT and free software.
post #3460 of 4190
Quote:
Originally Posted by stevenjw View Post

Too bad you missed out on the EAP for the VideoEQ because it was a great deal. Still, the VideoEQ Pro can be found for less than the $1200 MSRP (it's not $1800) and you won't need to buy Calman 4 Enthusiast either. The VideoEQ comes with software for controlling CMS. You're still going to need calibration software and a meter no matter if it's built in or through an external processor like the VideoEQ. Keep that in mind when comparing costs between a JVC with CMS and one without coupled with the VideoEQ Pro.

Since I already find the PQ of the FPJ1 pretty darn good, I'll live with the EAP VideoEQ Pro, HFCR and i1 LT for substantially less. Of course, going with a i1 pro and Calman 4 Enthusiast combo should give the best results and can be used on future PJs. I just can't justify spending another $1,000 for this combo over the i1 LT and free software.

I figured I would at a minimum need the CalMAN Enthusiast with Enhanced Chroma 5 Colorimeter which is $974 and the upcoming version 4 will greatly simplify calibrating. Then I will need the VideoEQ pro $999 or $1199 and I'm hoping they might extend this offer to have CMS control for my RS2.

Now would a JVC DLA RS35/HD950 need the VideoEQ since they have supposedly a much better CMS then the older RS20/HD750.

And the pro VideoEQ offers the ability to have saved profiles for different displays and like another reviewer said, guess what I'm going to be doing.

Now if only a video review would come out and say YUP, it does all it suppose to do and more. I want to see a rummy like me buy it, hook it up and go for it. Or will I end up in a straight jacket

I contacted CalMAN in Seattle. While they don't per say have a store front, they were perfectly willing it seemed to have interested members come up and talk. I'd be interested in doing a video of that experience and posting my dumb question I'll probably ask and experience. I'm just a home enthusiast whose gotten into a bad expensive hobby. The really bad part of this is the guy who got me started is now at least 5 years behind the times. I had him over the other day and he still has AE2000 and no blu ray player.

and so it goes
post #3461 of 4190
Hagar,

I'm slightly confused on what you're trying to figure out. From what I gather, you have an RS2 which you spent $2200 for. (And can probably sell for $2500 or so to someone like Dave). It sounds like you're considering purchase of a VideoEQ to go with the RS2. I think that's a smart move. As I said, the cost of calibration is irrelevant in the decision. You'll need them (or pay for an ISF calibration) no matter what PJ you have if you want to get them most out of your PJ. You make the call on what you want to spend for that, but don't factor that in to the decision between RS2+VideoEQ vs. RS35.

If you upgrade to any of the newer JVC models (except RS15), you really don't need the VideoEQ since these PJs all have serviceable CMS. I don't see why you'd want to add one in the mix. What's the point?

So just compare what you could sell your RS2 for plus money saved not buying a VideoEQ Pro (@$3.5K) to the price of an RS25 or RS35 (@$6K-7K). I don't know how you'd figured you only need another $1,100? Now if you're talking an upgrade to a used RS20, that's a different story.
post #3462 of 4190
Quote:
Originally Posted by stevenjw View Post

Hagar,

I'm slightly confused on what you're trying to figure out. From what I gather, you have an RS2 which you spent $2200 for. (And can probably sell for $2500 or so to someone like Dave). It sounds like you're considering purchase of a VideoEQ to go with the RS2. I think that's a smart move. As I said, the cost of calibration is irrelevant in the decision. You'll need them (or pay for an ISF calibration) no matter what PJ you have if you want to get them most out of your PJ. You make the call on what you want to spend for that, but don't factor that in to the decision between RS2+VideoEQ vs. RS35.

If you upgrade to any of the newer JVC models (except RS15), you really don't need the VideoEQ since these PJs all have serviceable CMS. I don't see why you'd want to add one in the mix. What's the point?

So just compare what you could sell your RS2 for plus money saved not buying a VideoEQ Pro (@$3.5K) to the price of an RS25 or RS35 (@$6K-7K). I don't know how you'd figured you only need another $1,100? Now if you're talking an upgrade to a used RS20, that's a different story.

Always trying to think how might I get a better system. Getting the VideoEQ Pro and the Chroma 5 with some software to do my own adjustment or getting the RS35 with supposedly a much better CMS (or so I've read) would the VideoEQ be redundant?

My wife says that a problem I have with rounding numbers too. So its $1500 more, I can make it look palatable by saying its just a little over a $1000.

I think the biggest problem for AV enthusiast is knowing if the quality of the picture there looking at is all it can be. I hear of crushing blacks, neon glow and other terms. Even though I think my RS2 looks great, the ISF calibrator left me with a feeling of it was just the best he could do and I felt like it wasn't what I really expected. $300 and the promise of reports being mailed have gone two months with no response. Jason did a great job but the blacks were just to dark and hence I had another calibration. I'll leave this for another rant on calibrating.

Oh here's that rant - This ISF calibrator I had said you can't calibrate a projector off site and get good results. Also you need to have at least 100 hour before calibrating. Well if that's true, how can the new JVC's come out looking so good out of the box in the reviews I've read?
post #3463 of 4190
Jason has said something about an alternative CMS solution coming out. Not released yet and still under a NDA but ask him if he can say more
post #3464 of 4190
Ok, after deciding to return my Epson 8500 I have just purchased a Pioneer Elite FPJ1. copied and pasted from my other "help me pick a projector" thread...


I'm pleased to say that on Sunday I discovered that video nirvana does in fact cost $2900. And its name is the Pioneer Elite FPJ1. Mated with the hipower screen in my theater is producing the sharpnest, clearest, blackest, most colorful images I have ever seen in video reproduction. Better than a 9" CRT. No kidding.

So here's what happened... Steve (an AVS member) pointed me in the direction of an online classified add for a Pioneer Elite (RS2 Clone) PJ for around $3000. After an email or two the seller responded to my request to call me in person to discuss. Quick note to anyone trying to sell gear: CALL YOUR POTENIAL BUYER and talk over the phone. It really goes a long way to creating a trust and comfort zone about a potential on-line purchase.

During the conversation Derek (also an AVS member) explained that he was actually selling off all of his eletronic HT gear to raise some cash, but keeping his basic HT room in tact to then re-outfit a year or two out with new equipment when he's ready to make the investment again. He had already sold off his amps and speakers and the PJ was the last item on the list. Once we realized that we were physically only about 2 hours drive away from each other, he offered to have me come and personally audition the unit. That's a rare and welcome opportunity... basically getting to evaluate the like-new (only 70 hours on the bulb of a 4-month old machine) PJ in person to check for all of my potential areas of concern like over-saturated primaries, convergence, image sharpness etc. Having the chance to evaluate the *actual* unit you're interested in buying is entirely different than just evaluating another projector of the same model, especially when we're talking about 3-chip machines with potential convergence issues and color/black-field uniformity variations etc.

After enjoying a Saturday evening of a gorgeous snow-fall here in the D.C. area, Sunday morning after the roads had been plowed I jumped in the truck and headed for PA. Yes, I had already fore-warned the significant-other that a new projector purchase was a possibility. I've spent the last few months pointing out all of the deficiences of my current PJ in order to try to "set the stage" for a new purchase so that some of the justification would already be laid.

After one heck of a stunning drive through the snow-covered hills of PA, Derek welcomed me inside, I greeted the dog, and saw his really top-drawer home-theater room which was still impressive even with no audio equipment. I had brought the obligatory bag-of-blu-rays and had expected to stay about an hour swapping out BARAKA, All the PIXAR titles, Blade Runner, Dark City etc.

I decided to give the debut demo honor to BARAKA and we sat down to enjoy the soundless HD picture (remember, he had already sold off his audio system. Which meant that not only were we focusing only on the image, but the lack of fan-noise of the PJ in low-lamp setting was also easily demonstrated).

STUNNING.

We had only switched from BARAKA to Cars when I knew I would be taking the FPJ1 home with me.

I was SHOCKED by how sharp, clear, and resolved all of the fine detail was in the image. The first thing I noticed was that all of talk of "LCOS softness" didn't apply to this machine. When we pulled up the menu each pixel could easily be seen defined on the screen from about 3 feet away with perfect convergence and crystal-clear definition. Moving 5 feet back and beyond the pixels melded into a symphany of solidity that, as those of you who have these PJs know, looks like a (high quality) projected film and not like a "digital" picture at all. Smooth, solid, color with perfect uniformity. I'd like to point out that IMO JVC's LCOS sharpness is like "real life sharpness". In real life you have crisp, clear, and unobscured edge-definition of the real objects that you're looking at. Yet you don't constantly feel that they are overly sharp. The LCD "sharpness" you hear about is because the added noise/SDE is in effect acting as a sort of edge-enhacment by amplifying edge transitions with a slight pixel-separation. The LCOS manages to create solid line transitions that aren't soft or obscured, but simply aren't edge-enhanced with SDE noise (yes, I know that DLP can do an even more realistic sharpness given its ability to do discrete on/off with adjacent pixels with no inter-pixel interaction). The sharpness and lack of SDE have allowed me to move closer to the screen again to enjoy my usual 1.3 scren-width distance which I feel is more immersive than 1.5.

Saturation was vibrant but not obviously over-punched, and I've seen a first-generation RS1 which I did think had ultra-saturated greens and reds. Color and contrast were incredible: lifelike, and the shadow-detail is so incredible that movies look like they never did before: I'm seeing detail and dimension in pictures I've NEVER known existed. It's like when you get a new pair of high resolution speakers and a top-performing d/a converter and suddenly your CD library opens up a whole new level of information that had been hidden, undiscovered in your favorite long-loved albums.

Oh and the blacks. The FPJ1 produces as close to "true black" as I need in a home-theater. When your eyes are adjusted from the bright image a fade to black looks "black" for a few seconds before your eyes are able to adjust and confirm the slightest hint of light output on the screen. But even then, it's blacker than anything I've seen outside of CRT... and MUCH blacker than any theatrical projection (film or digital) I've seen. It "feels like black" which is all I need.

Is is really possible that outide of not being able to project 3D, that this machine can produce what I'd consider to be the "perfect" picture (by "perfect" I mean not lacking in any obvious way that compells me to seek improvement)? It's so strange to watch a movie and rather than think about what I'd like to be improved, instead to just be abosorbed into the visual feast. We watched UP as our inaugural film when I got home and mounted the PJ and the colors, details, image purity, and shawdow detail had to bee seen to be believed. I've seen this film twice in the theater, on LCD and Plasma screens, and twice on my HD2K. This was honestly the FIRST TIME I've ever really seen the artwork as it really exists: seeing details and color naunces that blew my mind. Even my partner, who had really lectured me for daring to spend so much on a PJ when I'm still paying off the new kitchen, kept saying over and over during the film "look at that color" and "look at that detail" and "I can't belive how much detail there is in those dark scenes". Our visiting guest kept commenting on the depth and sense of 3D space in the 2D image. Sigh.

Can I say something about this PJ that I feel doesn't get stated enough?

TEXTURES LOOK LIKE THE REAL THING.

Water looks wet. Metal look shiny. Cotton looks like cotton. Silk looks like silk. Sand looks like sand. It's incredible how our 1920 x 1080 resolution media can communicate the subtle details that genuinely portray these facsimilies on the screen.

In Baraka, the "key hole" sceen on the california beach was a perfect example: the rocks looked like *real rock* and the water coming through the keyhole looked like real spashes of water which were wet.

That's the experience I crave with high-end audio reproduction: when the musical textures take on that "inner detail" and liquid "air" soundstaging where musical forms begin to actually *sound like* what they are... when the saxiphone ozzes all sorts of resonating overtones and the drum kick has a realistic presence, attack, and decay. That's what this JVC/Pioneer PJ is doing with video. Incredible.

Needless to say this surpasses the Epson in EVERY way, including sharpness. Yes, including sharpness. There is MORE visible detail with the FPJ1 than I ever saw on the Epson. Oh, and all of the "motion smearing" I lived with on the HD2K is gone as well. The FPJ1 handles motion like a champ... no smearing. And I don't want frame-interpolation so I'm not bothered by its ommision on this unit.

I don't plan to buy any CMS processor. The color balance is so pleasing, and this unit hasn't even been calibrated: all presets are to factory! I think with some tweaking it could get even better.

I'm really glad that I bought the Epson because had I bought the Panny I might have been happy and kept it... no SDE and no red-fringing defect. However, the RS2 clone that I have is in another league, so I'm thrilled that my debacle with the Epson was the catalyst I needed to push up the budget and get a machine that makes my image reproduction dreams come true.

$2900 may seem like a high price for a "used" machine that was going for $2500 during the blow out, but with perfect convergence, this level of sharpness, and the warrantee card, I couldn't be happier. And folks... let me also say that despite being retro-reflective, my hipower screen is producing a very bright picture even with the ceiling mounted PJ set to low lamp brightness! If I could lower the PJ down towards head-height the image gets even better. I may do that when I reconfigure the room after my next renovation. Also, I think that the image is MORE DETAILED on my hipower than on the angular reflective studio-tech screen or silverstar were I've also seen the RS2. Wow. I think that those surface textures of those screens obscure fine detail. The smooth nature of the hipower screen produces an image that's perceptively more silky-smooth, detailed, and sharp. Also important to note: the ceiling-mounted PJ is producing an as-bright or brigher image on my 106" highpower than on the 100" angular reflective screen in Derek's HT. Folks who are considering ceiling mount PJs with good brightness should not be dissuaded from the hipower just because of the retro-reflectivity... you might be surprised!
post #3465 of 4190
Quote:
Originally Posted by tilallr1 View Post

Sorry to throw out this question ... but does anyone use the RS2/FPJ1 with a PS3? I use my PS3 as my primary Blu-ray & DVD player with this projector. Could you please share your settings for certain options?

Like ...

VIDEO SETTINGS

BD / DVD Cinema Conversion - Automatic / Video
* Apparently people were saying on the RS20 thread that setting this to Video would fix the motion blur issue?

OK - did this change and changed to limited on the colors as well.

Watched Gamer and well I have to go back and check some material that I saw in the past, but there definately seemed to be less blurring. Is it gone / actually better -- not 100% sure yet. I will check some movies that I have seen a few times like Casino Royal and then make sure, but it definately seemed improved. Now there seemed to be other picture differences as well, but not sure which of the several changes I made caused what. Overall - better picture without a doubt - so thanks a lot.

Now a question -- what display setting on the PJ do you guys have?

Sources - HDMI -- 4:4:4 / 4:2:2 / RGB -- match the PS3 and set to RGB or any reason why you wouldn't?
post #3466 of 4190
Great writeup DaViD. I feel the same way about my RS2 (AVS B stock blowout). My previous projector was a Sony VW10HT. You know, the one with contrast ratio of about 8:1. I knew that I wouldn't be happy with any LCD projector after watching my Sony SXRD rear projection set for years.
post #3467 of 4190
Quote:
Originally Posted by mhdiab View Post

OK - did this change and changed to limited on the colors as well.

Sources - HDMI -- 4:4:4 / 4:2:2 / RGB -- match the PS3 and set to RGB or any reason why you wouldn't?

Did you find limited reduced black crush? Did you have to bump up the brightness? I did not enjoy the resulting image so I switched back to Full.

Setting the BD / DVD Cinema Conversion from Auto to Video was a night a day difference for motion blurr problems for me. I am very happy to have fixed this. This was the only thing stopping me from fully enjoying my setup.

Also, I have my Sources - HDMI set to Auto. Not sure why you would want to change that. Are you trying to reduce sync time? Plus, wouldn't the PS3 be 4:4:4 for blu-rays?
post #3468 of 4190
Quote:
Originally Posted by tilallr1 View Post

Did you find limited reduced black crush? Did you have to bump up the brightness?

Also, I have my Sources - HDMI set to Auto. Not sure why you would want to change that. Are you trying to reduce sync time?

I thought the blacks were better less crush. Didn't have an issue with brightness, but I am playing with using a ND filter or not right now so kind of hard to say as I had the filter off at the time. In addition I had just watched Dark City which is just a very very dark movie so any brightness seemed like an improvement

I will try to do some more tests the next couple of nights and report back.

Sources -- didn't know just thought I should check. I have it on auto as well but didn't know what others had selected
post #3469 of 4190
I'm glad you were able to find one David. I sure wish my Pioneer had even close to perfect convergence but it doesn't. This is my only complaint as I feel that it isn't as sharp as it could be

Tom
post #3470 of 4190
I found this post about Limited vs RGB listed below. It appears "BD/DVD is natively YCC, 16–235. If you set BD/DVD output to YCC rather than RGB or Auto, the Full/Limited RGB setting will have no effect whatsoever." So essentially it makes no difference what I set the RGB setting to, it will not add or take away anything. Since I calibrated it on FULL and don't want to recalibrate it for LIMITED (as there is a change), I guess I will leave it alone. Any thoughts?


Originally Posted by andrewfee View Post
Limited RGB = 16–235 RGB, ‘Video Levels’.
Full RGB = 0–255 RGB, ‘PC Levels’.


Games and the XMB are rendered in RGB. I believe it is natively in the 0–255 PC range. (which you would expect, as it is an nVidia graphics card in there) People have also reported seeing additional posterisation when sending Video Levels as there are less steps of gradation available.

The levels are remapped automatically whether you are in Full or Limited RGB. By that, I mean that whether it is in limited or full RGB, you will always see information below/above 16/235 in the photo viewer etc.

BD/DVD is natively YCC, 16–235. If you set BD/DVD output to YCC rather than RGB or Auto, the Full/Limited RGB setting will have no effect whatsoever.

Super White enables/disables the display of BTB/WTW information with BD/DVD playback in YCC. If you play back BD/DVD in RGB, the PS3 will always clip it.

Many displays do not support Full RGB, or do not work with it correctly when in Auto mode. With some displays (Pioneers for example) forcing them into PC levels will stop them auto-switching into YCC for BD/DVD meaning that you have to either use RGB for everything (prioritising game image quality) or use limited RGB for games and YCC for BD/DVD. (prioritising BD/DVD IQ)


To test whether your display supports Full RGB or properly switches into it automatically, first set the system to Limited RGB.

Now either download this onto your PS3 via the browser, or load it from a memory stick: http://sr-388.net/images/patterns/Brightness.jpg

Adjust the brightness control on your display notch-by-notch until the 1 is just visible — a notch lower and it would disappear.

Now, switch your PS3 into Full RGB mode. Is 1,2,3,4 still visible or are you now looking at a black screen?

If 1,2,3,4 is visible, your display properly supports auto-switching into PC levels. If not, see if you have an option in the menus to switch between PC/Video levels. (often labelled something like ‘black level high/low’) Switching to PC levels should restore the 1,2,3,4 on your display.

The 1 or possibly even 2 may disappear so you might need to adjust brightness a couple of notches to get it to display properly again.

If it all disappears and you have to make significant changes to brightness (e.g. 10, 15, 20 notches, assuming a scale of 1–100) then it is not working correctly.

If you can't see 1,2,3,4 at all after switching the PS3 into Full RGB and don't have a black level option on your screen, it does not support it and you should set it back to Limited RGB.

Personally, I feel that it is a bit of a misnomer calling it Full or Limited RGB — people are more likely to turn it onto Full RGB as they think they'll be getting a better image. It should really just be referred to as PC or Video levels.
post #3471 of 4190
Quote:
Originally Posted by tilallr1 View Post

I found this post about Limited vs RGB listed below. It appears "BD/DVD is natively YCC, 16-235. If you set BD/DVD output to YCC rather than RGB or Auto, the Full/Limited RGB setting will have no effect whatsoever." So essentially it makes no difference what I set the RGB setting to, it will not add or take away anything. Since I calibrated it on FULL and don't want to recalibrate it for LIMITED (as there is a change), I guess I will leave it alone. Any thoughts?


Originally Posted by andrewfee View Post
Limited RGB = 16-235 RGB, Video Levels'.
Full RGB = 0-255 RGB, PC Levels'.


Games and the XMB are rendered in RGB. I believe it is natively in the 0-255 PC range. (which you would expect, as it is an nVidia graphics card in there) People have also reported seeing additional posterisation when sending Video Levels as there are less steps of gradation available.

The levels are remapped automatically whether you are in Full or Limited RGB. By that, I mean that whether it is in limited or full RGB, you will always see information below/above 16/235 in the photo viewer etc.

BD/DVD is natively YCC, 16-235. If you set BD/DVD output to YCC rather than RGB or Auto, the Full/Limited RGB setting will have no effect whatsoever.

Super White enables/disables the display of BTB/WTW information with BD/DVD playback in YCC. If you play back BD/DVD in RGB, the PS3 will always clip it.

Many displays do not support Full RGB, or do not work with it correctly when in Auto mode. With some displays (Pioneers for example) forcing them into PC levels will stop them auto-switching into YCC for BD/DVD meaning that you have to either use RGB for everything (prioritising game image quality) or use limited RGB for games and YCC for BD/DVD. (prioritising BD/DVD IQ)


To test whether your display supports Full RGB or properly switches into it automatically, first set the system to Limited RGB.

Now either download this onto your PS3 via the browser, or load it from a memory stick: http://sr-388.net/images/patterns/Brightness.jpg

Adjust the brightness control on your display notch-by-notch until the 1 is just visible a notch lower and it would disappear.

Now, switch your PS3 into Full RGB mode. Is 1,2,3,4 still visible or are you now looking at a black screen?

If 1,2,3,4 is visible, your display properly supports auto-switching into PC levels. If not, see if you have an option in the menus to switch between PC/Video levels. (often labelled something like black level high/low') Switching to PC levels should restore the 1,2,3,4 on your display.

The 1 or possibly even 2 may disappear so you might need to adjust brightness a couple of notches to get it to display properly again.

If it all disappears and you have to make significant changes to brightness (e.g. 10, 15, 20 notches, assuming a scale of 1-100) then it is not working correctly.

If you can't see 1,2,3,4 at all after switching the PS3 into Full RGB and don't have a black level option on your screen, it does not support it and you should set it back to Limited RGB.

Personally, I feel that it is a bit of a misnomer calling it Full or Limited RGB people are more likely to turn it onto Full RGB as they think they'll be getting a better image. It should really just be referred to as PC or Video levels.

One of the problems I had with my RS1 was that the brightness and contrast controls are too coarse of an adjustment. With the brightness set at the default the blacks looked great but I was crushing black. When I used +1 the shadow detail returned but the black level was a tad too high compromising contrast ratio. Adding a Lumagen VP fixed that. I keep the brightness at default zero position and increased the brightness in the VP to bring the shadow detail back to where it should be. The VP is a much better fine tuning control.

I had the black crush problem once with my old Toshiba HDDVD player the XA2. The player would force me to use RGB full range or PC levels. If you didn't increase the players brightness contol you crushed blacks on DVD and HDDVD. Eventually Toshiba fixed this...after HDDVD was dead. I still use the player for DVD playback though...not often these days!
post #3472 of 4190
Quote:
Originally Posted by dave7 View Post

... and yesterday morning got the FPJ1 calibrated by Gregg Loewen.

Thanks for your calibration report. I've added it to the front projection (Post#1) list that's linked at the bottom of my post.
post #3473 of 4190
Hello all.. I just picked up a FpJ1 and was wondering if those here could suggest a decent ceiling mount for this projector? Or perhpas is it best to place on a audio stand about 4.5 feet off ground? Thoughts?
post #3474 of 4190
Hello. I have owned the FPJ1for almost a year now, and have also just purchased the new VideoEQ from AV Foundry and CalMAN. My question to more knowledgeable owners (no offense intended!) is about the bit processing. Can the FPJ1 handle, accept, 10 or 12 bit video processing? This is important to the video processing done in the VideoEQ and will be seen in PQ. I can't find documentation any where on this. As I understand it the VideoEQ needs the bit depth so the LUT tables do not get their decimal points rounded off to early, (I know this is way over simplified). Next week the ability to force 10 bit video to the projector/TV should be up and running in the VEQ and I would like to know if my projector can handle it. Thanks for any info. Doug G.
post #3475 of 4190
Chief is what I have. A bit pricey but solid and easy to get square to the screen.
post #3476 of 4190
I'll second the Chief mount.
post #3477 of 4190
Quote:
Originally Posted by JosephF View Post

I'll second the Chief mount.

any particular model #?
post #3478 of 4190
Quote:
Originally Posted by mariob33 View Post

any particular model #?

I went with the RPA-U. This way I have a universal mount should I change projector brands down the road.
post #3479 of 4190
+1 on RPA-U
post #3480 of 4190
Quote:
Originally Posted by moviegk61 View Post

Hello. I have owned the FPJ1for almost a year now, and have also just purchased the new VideoEQ from AV Foundry and CalMAN. My question to more knowledgeable owners (no offense intended!) is about the bit processing. Can the FPJ1 handle, accept, 10 or 12 bit video processing? This is important to the video processing done in the VideoEQ and will be seen in PQ. I can't find documentation any where on this. As I understand it the VideoEQ needs the bit depth so the LUT tables do not get their decimal points rounded off to early, (I know this is way over simplified). Next week the ability to force 10 bit video to the projector/TV should be up and running in the VEQ and I would like to know if my projector can handle it. Thanks for any info. Doug G.

I have the same setup (except calibration software, I'm using HCFR vs. Calman). I know that the projector can handle 10 bit, so I'm looking forward to the forced setting too. Here's a link where they used a DVDO VP50pro with 10-bit 4:2:2 YPbPr HDMI output into a FPJ1 with no problem. The RS2/FPJ1 has two HDMI 1.3 inputs which support Deep Color while the RS1 does not (only HDMI 1.2). Deep Color supports 10-bit, 12-bit and 16-bit (RGB or YCbCr) color depths, up from the 8-bit depths in previous versions of the HDMI specification.
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