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RS2/ PRO-FPJ1 Owners: Setup Discussion Thread - Page 128

post #3811 of 4219
Just call JVC and ask for one, I did and they sent it out asap.

Nice having a cap.
post #3812 of 4219
Quote:
Originally Posted by DVD MAN View Post

The DVDO DUO and the Pioneer PRO-FPJ1 has been a great combo.
Here are my calibrated results using an Eye1 Pro , Chroma 5 Enhanced and Calman 4.1.1.


Nice job, well done.

Although I'm not sure about the 2-4 pdfs information, I'm a picture kinda of guy.
post #3813 of 4219
Quote:
Originally Posted by michaelscott73 View Post

Anyone think I will have an issue with a 138" screen, mounted 22' from screen, using a DIY CMRA S-I-L-V-E-R screen...as far as brightness? Room is light controlled...painted completely black "first 5' from screen"

Thought I'd throw in 2 cents here. I've wrestled with this myself quite a bit having a 119" diagonal screen. According to Art at projector central review;

The important thing is the projector still had no problem with my 128" diagonal Firehawk G3. I think it will do ok with my screen though out its lamp life, but don't really think a larger screen will work unless you are fully darkened, dark walls/ceiling, for movie watching. And it is brighter than my RS1 is now (with over 1000 hours on the lamp). The point of this is, when I make screen size recommendations I consider that a projector won't be as bright as the lamp ages. Thus, if I say fine for 110" screens, I mean that the projector should still do a good job on a screen that size even as the lamp reaches the end of its life.

And I'm getting around 400 lumens (10fl) and thats with a 150 hr bulb thus far. That's on the low scale of the recommended 11-14 fl in a controlled theater room and mine is also well light controlled.

High power brings it up to 12 but I want to save that for when I have 1500 hrs or so. Or do I?

Now I'm thinking

And isn't it strange the RS20 and up boys have to step it down. I'm thinking that's where I'm going next.


Merry Christmas to all
post #3814 of 4219
I have the exact same scenario and have been looking for a reply to this post but can't seem to find one. Can anyone comment or help out.
Thanks


Quote:
Originally Posted by Milwaukeesk View Post

Calibration Question for all you seasoned JVC RS2 / Pioneer users. I have the pioneer model and now have about 500 hours on it. My question is that my calibration results are nowhere near what many have suggested. When I calibrate I use the Spears and Munsil calibration blu-ray in a completely dark room with a Studio Tek 130 screen. Is anybody else in this same boat...

Contrast -7
Brightness 2
Color 2
Gamma 2.2
Sharp 0

Sometimes I feel like the picture is just too dark and I loose shadow detail. As a result I bump up the brightness, but every time I do that I know I am washing out the picture.

If I try the 2.4 gamma trick where I bump the 5% ire 5 points it seems to almost cast a haze over the picture. This is especially noticeable if you switch back and forth with a configuration that is not using the custom gamma setting.

I'm fairly well versed with calibrating tv's with the calibration disc method, but I just can't seem to figure this one out. I could probably live with my results if everybody else was coming up with similar results to mine, but I am not even close. I know every set up is different as well, but these differences have me wondering...

Any advice? Anybody else have similar results- especially with the contrast and Gamma?

What Gamma setting has everybody settled on using?
post #3815 of 4219
Quote:
Originally Posted by michaelscott73 View Post

I have the exact same scenario and have been looking for a reply to this post but can't seem to find one. Can anyone comment or help out.
Thanks

I've seen a number of RS2s with different gamma performance with factory curves. With lots of time, patients and equipment, the RS2 can be calibrated to the proper gamma for your system and a flat grayscale.

The factory 2.4 gamma may not be 2.4, I have even seen the factory 2.6 to actually be non uniform and 2.1 or below
post #3816 of 4219
Make sure there is no mis-match between "pc" and "video" levels for hdmi. Ideally you should be using "video" level for both your source and the projector. Having this mis matched can show a "haze" you describe or black crush
post #3817 of 4219
Do you mean picture settings on my BR player...like "sports" "dynamic" "movie" etc.?
post #3818 of 4219
Found this post answering most of my questions...great explanation of gamma.

Quote:
Originally Posted by GlenC View Post

The correct gamma setting is not as simple as picking a number. The reason many are using a "bump" at the lower IRE is due to the fact their gamma is too high for their system.

For those who don't fully understand the effect of gamma, think of it like a staircase, with each step getting a little taller. With higher gamma settings, the first steps are really shallow, then they get larger, faster, as they approach 100 IRE. The goal is to get black as black as possible, while still being able to see the detail as you rise out of black, like 2, 3, 5 IRE, etc.

Okay, now you set gamma to 2.4, set black and white levels, then with a 50% APL pattern, you cannot see the 2, 3, 5 IRE detail. To fix the problem, some try to reduce the gamma at low IRE by bumping the luminance in the low IREs. Now with this "fix", you take a few larger first steps, then a few flatter steps till you are back on line with the gamma. When improperly done, one can crush some low APL detail, by making the differences in IRE increases, after the "bump" equal. For instance, you bump at 5 IRE but the effect may cause luminance changes somewhere between 6 to 10 IRE to be so close that you cannot see the difference, thus loosing detail.

Properly setting gamma for the specific theater system will allow the best black level while maintaining sub 10 IRE detail to be visible in medium to low APL scenes.

Another factor in proper gamma is the brightness and contrast ratio of a projector and the eye's ability to see the dark detail with bright content in the same scene. What good is having a 2.4 or 2.5 gamma if you cannot see the low IRE detail because your eye is crushing the blacks?

I don't remember the exact numbers, however, IIRC, it starts with 5, 10......

Some shows can vary, but I prefer to have gamma set somewhere between 2.1 and 2.2. With this, things like strands of dark hair are visible rather than a black mass with no detail. Lapels, wrinkles, etc. are visible on black suits and sweaters. Now the Factory gamma settings are not absolutely accurate. I have made corrections with the custom gamma controls, and further corrected the gamma with the Lumagen. A good, linear measuring device is necessary, to accurately adjust gamma.
post #3819 of 4219
Amazing what you find if you look...although it did take a few days of reading this thread. My ratio is at the lower end, which is why the Higher Gamma setting wasn't working for me.

Quote:
Originally Posted by mdputnam View Post
Keep in mind that the RS2's contrast varies significantly with throw from a RS1 like 19,200:1 up to 30,900 (as measured by Greg R). In my opinion the lower end of the contrast range is not high enough to support a 2.4 gamma. Here is a graph of how the contrast varies with throw using the limited data Greg provided.

post #3820 of 4219
I grimmest asking this but how does one know what "throw" one is at?

Dave
post #3821 of 4219
Here you go...I had to Google it myself

http://www.theprojectorpros.com/lear...row_ratios.htm
post #3822 of 4219
Thanks and your the man. However with my dimensions of being 13' from the screen to my projector and my screen being 104" or 8.6' across means I have a throw ratio of 1.5 and thus only about a 20,000 contrast ratio.

And this from a projector with capable 30,000 contrast ratio. So I'd have to move my projector back 20 feet to get even 2.5 but have much less luminance. I'll have to think about this some more and get back.

hmmmm
post #3823 of 4219
I'd opt for the higher contrast ratio. From what I've read on the thread brightness shouldn't be a problem with that size screen.
post #3824 of 4219
Well not exactly. Having more luminance is a luxury I don't have. Moving back further would kill me. And while this projector has been said to handle a 119" screen, I have my reservations.

And I always wonder how much difference there is between 20,000 and 30,000 contrast ratio, could I see it?

I presently am only getting about a 10fl reading and I would like a little higher of at least 11. When I get home, I'm going to check it again.
post #3825 of 4219
I own the Pioneer. No problems for years but now the warning light is on and it will not project an image. My son was playing games on it for about 6 hours so thought it may be overheating. Anything I can do to see what is wrong with it? Thanks.
post #3826 of 4219
and now it is working again...
post #3827 of 4219
Absolutely love this projector, however I'm curious of whether I'm the only one who finds the light-spill utterly unacceptable. I've always been a bit of a hack when it comes getting a job done (I'm a web developer, the situation sometimes calls for it), hence this front masking mess I hacked together. Pics below.

There's two slidable flags for the different ARs (currently set for 4.3 for last night's old super16 student film).

works extremely well. Velvet covered celling extends about 10 feet from screen. When the lights go out, all you see is canvas. Not even the speakers are noticeable.

Btw, the mover belt on the projector is employed because of my not complete trust of the extension bar from the mount. Should get a new one as soon as possible...hack.
LL
LL
post #3828 of 4219
Quote:
Originally Posted by kiliksun View Post

Absolutely love this projector, however I'm curious of whether I'm the only one who finds the light-spill utterly unacceptable. I've always been a bit of a hack when it comes getting a job done (I'm a web developer, the situation sometimes calls for it), hence this front masking mess I hacked together. Pics below.

There's two slidable flags for the different ARs (currently set for 4.3 for last night's old super16 student film).

works extremely well. Velvet covered celling extends about 10 feet from screen. When the lights go out, all you see is canvas. Not even the speakers are noticeable.

Btw, the mover belt on the projector is employed because of my not complete trust of the extension bar from the mount. Should get a new one as soon as possible...hack.

I notice the light spill on my RS2.... sometimes more than others..... I expect (hope) it will not be an issue when I get the Prismasonic HD5000R installed.
post #3829 of 4219
I would be interested in hearing about that. I've thought long and hard about getting a lens. Diminishing light-spill significantly would probably be enough to pull me over. I think in my case, it's esp bad because of how low the projector is (less than six feet from the ground) so when unmasked, the entire room lights up!
post #3830 of 4219
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gruson View Post

I own the Pioneer. No problems for years but now the warning light is on and it will not project an image. My son was playing games on it for about 6 hours so thought it may be overheating. Anything I can do to see what is wrong with it? Thanks.

do you have adequate ventilation for it? have you had it on that long before?
post #3831 of 4219
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by kiliksun View Post

I would be interested in hearing about that. I've thought long and hard about getting a lens. Diminishing light-spill significantly would probably be enough to pull me over. I think in my case, it's esp bad because of how low the projector is (less than six feet from the ground) so when unmasked, the entire room lights up!

They can be a little pricey, but an anamorphic lens system is the best thing I've ever done to upgrade my system. You also pick up brightness when using the Vstretch mode because you're using the entire 16:9 panel of the PJ when watching widescreen movies. I have Superbowl parties every year and I always do a little test to see how many, if any, folks notice that I'm stretched out with the image(no Vstretch on, but lens in the light path). Only one person has made a comment in 4 years.

Chris
LL
post #3832 of 4219
Thread Starter 
First Superbowl party. The Costco footstool was where I sat.
LL
post #3833 of 4219
Hi All, I could use a little help from a projector newbie.

I purchased a new PRO-FPJ1 about a year ago for a theater project I am getting ready to start. I need a little help with screen sizes. The front of the projector is right at 14' from the wall. I was looking at the pioneer projection chart and all a little confused. First I will be installing a 16:9 screen. It just min/max distance (I am assuming here) as wide /telephoto. Those are the extremes I am guessing. Is there a sweet spot I should hit as far as size of screen verses image quality. Image quality is NUMBER ONE important by the way. That said I would like to install a decent size screen if I can.

Any help you all might have would REALLY be appreciated.

Thanks,
Scott
post #3834 of 4219
Thread Starter 
post #3835 of 4219
Thanks, that was a BIG help!
post #3836 of 4219
Thread Starter 
Yeah, the charts can be a little tricky to work sometimes.

At 14 ft away from the screen, you could do pretty close to a 10 ft wide screen in 16:9. GO BIG! You won't regret it. Have you thought about a 2.40 screen? I have a 10 ft wide 2.42 SMX screen with a Panamorph lens system and it rocks! I am a total believer in using the VStretch/lens combo. You get the max output that this pj has to offer.

Chris
post #3837 of 4219
Today when I went to turn on my PRO-FPJ1 it powered up but never fully turned on the bulb to light up my screen. I could see light on in the internals,but it wouldn't fully light up the bulb. It was also "locked up" as I couldn't get it to respond to the remote to shut it off.

I pulled the power plug finally and then turned it back on and it works like normal. Any ideas what a cause of that fluke was (1st time it's happened and I have about 1,200 total hours on the PJ)? On my second bulb though and it is at 125 hours now.
post #3838 of 4219
Thanks for the advice. Probably can't do the lens, I'm already pushing the budget the way it is now.

Scott
post #3839 of 4219
Quote:
Originally Posted by Midwest User1 View Post

Today when I went to turn on my PRO-FPJ1 it powered up but never fully turned on the bulb to light up my screen. I could see light on in the internals,but it wouldn't fully light up the bulb. It was also "locked up" as I couldn't get it to respond to the remote to shut it off.

I pulled the power plug finally and then turned it back on and it works like normal. Any ideas what a cause of that fluke was (1st time it's happened and I have about 1,200 total hours on the PJ)? On my second bulb though and it is at 125 hours now.

Bump.
post #3840 of 4219
Quote:
Originally Posted by sacarmic View Post

Hi All, I could use a little help from a projector newbie.

I purchased a new PRO-FPJ1 about a year ago for a theater project I am getting ready to start. I need a little help with screen sizes. The front of the projector is right at 14' from the wall. I was looking at the pioneer projection chart and all a little confused. First I will be installing a 16:9 screen. It just min/max distance (I am assuming here) as wide /telephoto. Those are the extremes I am guessing. Is there a sweet spot I should hit as far as size of screen verses image quality. Image quality is NUMBER ONE important by the way. That said I would like to install a decent size screen if I can.

Any help you all might have would REALLY be appreciated.

Thanks,
Scott

You also may want to check out the chart on contrast ratio further up in the thread. As much as I read through all the posts on this site before mounting, I missed the discussion on what the throw ratio would do to contrast ratio. I am at the bottom of the ratio because I wanted as big a screen as possible. However, I think my black detail is suffering a bit.
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