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RS2/ PRO-FPJ1 Owners: Setup Discussion Thread - Page 133

post #3961 of 4190
I feel in good company here as I'm sticking with my current JVC for the time being. Adding a Lumagen Mini3D and an Isco lens helps, but I didn't see a huge difference (for 2D) even with last year's X7 (RS50) over my HD350. I expect this year's models will again be a small incremental step for 2D as well.

Sometimes it's nice to enjoy what you have and be happy with it...I know that even a tripling of contrast won't make some of the films any more enjoyable for me (I just need to find some films worth watching ).
post #3962 of 4190
There is a local dealer that has an RS2 brand new in the box. Since the HD250 is selling in the $2.5k to $2.8k range, how much should I offer him for his new RS2?
post #3963 of 4190
Quote:
Originally Posted by biomed_eng_2000 View Post

There is a local dealer that has an RS2 brand new in the box. Since the HD250 is selling in the $2.5k to $2.8k range, how much should I offer him for his new RS2?

The last "used" one on Ebay sold for $1400 best offer. I wouldn't pay any more than that if it were me. If you do buy it, make sure you can take it back if the convergence is bad. Mine has less than stellar convergence so I'm going to have to sell it for WAY less, around 500 bucks or less, if I upgrade this year.

Tom
post #3964 of 4190
Don't know if this is a record or not but I just passed 5000 hours on my original bulb. I'm using a Da-Lite High Power 106" screen and the image is still bright. I calibrated it myself when I purchased the RS2 and run the unit about 5 to 6 hours daily, sometimes longer without turning it off, even if I go away for an hour or two. I just don't like striking the bulb too often.

Anyway, I still love this projector!!

Wayne
LL
post #3965 of 4190
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Monahan View Post

The last "used" one on Ebay sold for $1400 best offer. I wouldn't pay any more than that if it were me. If you do buy it, make sure you can take it back if the convergence is bad. Mine has less than stellar convergence so I'm going to have to sell it for WAY less, around 500 bucks or less, if I upgrade this year.

Tom

I have seen a lot of discussion on convergence...and this is a dumb question...but what exactly am I looking for in the test screen to determine how mine is...portions of the line not green?
post #3966 of 4190
Quote:
Originally Posted by mystery View Post

Don't know if this is a record or not but I just passed 5000 hours on my original bulb. I'm using a Da-Lite High Power 106" screen and the image is still bright. I calibrated it myself when I purchased the RS2 and run the unit about 5 to 6 hours daily, sometimes longer without turning it off, even if I go away for an hour or two. I just don't like striking the bulb too often.

Anyway, I still love this projector!!

Wayne

Wowza, Thats well done.

Have you done anything to the lamp? Is it a original JVC lamp?

I have 3 lamps.

one at 1900 hours
one at 600 hours
and one at 100 hours

All are still working so I guess I got a lot of usage left.

So your projector has done 5000 hours has it?
How does it look. Any issues?

Mine had a slight green tint to any white colour on the left hand side, about 2%. I removed the lamp and gave the lamp and prism a real good clean. I had a whole heap of carbon come off on the cloth. I can't say I have spotted the problem again.

but as far as I know mine looks the same as when it was new.

Ta Dono
post #3967 of 4190
I still have to get the screen (SeymourAV) plumb and then the pj calibrated but out of the box it looked spectacular. I don't know what the lumens are but to my eyes it was plenty bright.

Very happy.
post #3968 of 4190
Has anybody looked at the Filter or has anyone needed to clean or change this filter yet?

I also still love this PJ and have no plans for upgrade yet. I am also still on the original bulb, but nowhere near 5,000 hours on it for sure, however I have been curious on how the filters in these PJ been doing. I try to keep my HT clean, I actually use and air filter from time to time in there to minimize dust in the room, but have never actually looked at the filter.
post #3969 of 4190
Not sure about your model, but IIRC on my HD350 it's recommended to clean it every 100 hours. It's very easy on the HD350 so I tend to do it more often than that, though I have found a bit of fluff in mine even after this short time. I'd highly recommend you check your sooner rather than later especially if you've got a number of hours on the clock.
post #3970 of 4190
Does anyone know how this is handled. Does the pj automatically up the refresh if it receives a 1080 - 24p signal or does it need to be enabled?
post #3971 of 4190
With the exception of 3D, the only things I used to day that could get me to upgrade my FPJ1 would be dead-on convergence (which now appears to be possible with the middle and high-end JVCs) and no motion blur. The new JVC's appear to have both of these... but I still just bought a new bulb for my FPJ1 (first time I ever bought a replacement bulb instead of just upgrading the projector)... so I guess no upgrade any time soon.

When Pioneer got out of the business, many of us basically hit the lottery with these FPJ1s... and for us there is no need to upgrade until the current crop of mid-high end JVCs are selling for under $3k.
post #3972 of 4190
Do the calibration settings in the RS2 actually work? To be more specific...do the GAMMA gradiation levels change the WB to gamma settings?
post #3973 of 4190
If I missed it, I apologize, but is there a good write up anywhere on how to clean this projector properly? I have a FPJ1 with 1737 hours on it and I've never cleaned it once so I figured it would be a good idea to do so after reading you people are doing it Haven't looked on this forum in quite a while so I'm behind on the times with it. I see that people are still in love with it and not seeing any reason to upgrade currently which is a good thing! I also saw that someone has 5000 hours on their lamp so I guess I'm still good for a while on that, lol.

Also had another question. Is it too late in the lamps life to have it calibrated by ISF technician? Not that I'm going to do it because I really don't want to spend the $300 on it... I go back and forth on it.
post #3974 of 4190
You can calibrate your PJ now if you like, in fact you can calibrate it at anytime. Usually they want you to burn the bulb in a little bit if its new before you calibrate it but thats about it. No as far as cleaning, I know there are instruction on the manual for cleaning the Air Filter. Not sure what to do with the lens, it may have some type of optic film on the lens so I would not use chemicals to clean it unless there is an approved lens cleaner for it. I us a air ca to blow the dust away from my lens.
post #3975 of 4190
I have finally got a OSRAM bulb to replace the JVC. Initial performance looks promising. Lumens are up nearly 25% from a new JVC bulb. I will have to get some hours on it to see where it goes from here. I will be watching light output and spectrum and the resulting colorspace.

Recent re-calibration of a customers RS2 with about 900 hours showed significant fall off in red energy, loss of about 20% from the measurements at 100 hours.

NOTE: The "OSRAM" link is not mine..... something with the website.
post #3976 of 4190
Quote:
Originally Posted by GlenC View Post

I have finally got a OSRAM bulb to replace the JVC. Initial performance looks promising. Lumens are up nearly 25% from a new JVC bulb. I will have to get some hours on it to see where it goes from here. I will be watching light output and spectrum and the resulting colorspace.

Recent re-calibration of a customers RS2 with about 900 hours showed significant fall off in red energy, loss of about 20% from the measurements at 100 hours.

Very interesting. Thanks for your ongoing info. Please keep us updated.

Ta Dono
post #3977 of 4190
Quote:
Originally Posted by GlenC View Post

I have finally got a OSRAM bulb to replace the JVC. Initial performance looks promising. Lumens are up nearly 25% from a new JVC bulb. I will have to get some hours on it to see where it goes from here. I will be watching light output and spectrum and the resulting colorspace.

Recent re-calibration of a customers RS2 with about 900 hours showed significant fall off in red energy, loss of about 20% from the measurements at 100 hours.

Glen, do you have a part # for this OSRAM lamp?

Thanks.
post #3978 of 4190
Quote:
Originally Posted by Samaritano View Post

Glen, do you have a part # for this OSRAM lamp?

Thanks.

69471

I will be selling these (genuine OSRAM, no clones) as a DIY or send me the old bulb/housing and I will change out the bulb. Bulb will also be configured for ceiling or table mount, unlike the OEM.
post #3979 of 4190
I guess the question would be how much for either option and how tricky is it to replace the bulb?
post #3980 of 4190
Quote:
Originally Posted by Larry J View Post

Well, that is kind of both a part number and specs. UHP is Philips and P-VIP is Osram. Those other numbers are for the refector size, acr gap, ect. It appears Osram is easier to find in the USA than Philips in this bulb. Just have to look around and find one.
Anyway, here are a few places that has the Osram version. Guess could call and ask if they have it in Philips. But either is fine in my opinion.

http://www.tristatemodule.com/p-7848...ip-200w10.aspx

http://www.replacementlightbulbs.com/lamp69471.html

http://www.topbulb.com/find/Product_...roductID=54971

Quote:
Originally Posted by GlenC View Post

I have finally got a OSRAM bulb to replace the JVC. Initial performance looks promising. Lumens are up nearly 25% from a new JVC bulb. I will have to get some hours on it to see where it goes from here. I will be watching light output and spectrum and the resulting colorspace.

Recent re-calibration of a customers RS2 with about 900 hours showed significant fall off in red energy, loss of about 20% from the measurements at 100 hours.

NOTE: The "OSRAM" link is not mine..... something with the website.

Well, glad to see you got around to testing one and saying it is brighter when new, than the original Iwasaki JVC. At least my eyes were right. Did you find a distributor that has the Philips version or just stick with the Osram ? It does appear Osram is much easier to find as a bare version than Philips. Yet it seems some places that sell the generic housing use Philips.

My Philips at 250 hours isn't quite as bright of course but still looks better than the Iwasaki that I had been paying too much for. So it will be interesting to see what your meters say over time.

Regarding people still asking if its easy to change just the bulb, yes its easy but if not familiar with it, might wonder how to use the plug since the wire is cramped on the original JVC. But still easy.

Just in case someone is interesting in looking at a few more Osram bulb specs here is a link. Seems like someone is always looking for a cheaper, better or lower cost bulb. But of course have to which one you need which is the tricky part sometimes.

http://assets.sylvania.com/assets/Do...712d06d229.pdf
post #3981 of 4190
There are many aftermarket bulb options. When going for the cheaper ones, you may be getting generic bulbs. At least I know I am getting genuine Osram bulbs from my distributor. They apparently do not have the Philips UHP 200W 1.0 P21.5. Next, and the most important to me, is the rate of lumen fall-off and more importantly, the spectrum of the bulb. These two factors are most influenced by the manufacturing process and the gas mixture in the bulb. AFAIK, the retail on the Osram is somewhere between $200-$250. The wires are important, and I believe they are rated at 20kV. IIRC, striking voltage is around 15K.

I know some who have purchased aftermarket replacements for the 5009S and received very poor performance.
post #3982 of 4190
Quote:
Originally Posted by GlenC View Post

There are many aftermarket bulb options. When going for the cheaper ones, you may be getting generic bulbs. At least I know I am getting genuine Osram bulbs from my distributor. They apparently do not have the Philips UHP 200W 1.0 P21.5. Next, and the most important to me, is the rate of lumen fall-off and more importantly, the spectrum of the bulb. These two factors are most influenced by the manufacturing process and the gas mixture in the bulb. AFAIK, the retail on the Osram is somewhere between $200-$250. The wires are important, and I believe they are rated at 20kV. IIRC, striking voltage is around 15K.

I know some who have purchased aftermarket replacements for the 5009S and received very poor performance.

Well, I'm not really sure what you mean by aftermarket, since it can be many different things. First off, I only buy from main distributors and at least two of the links I gave I know sell real Osram. But I think all three are OK. Which I did that because people were asking where to buy in the forum and by PM.

I didn't bother posting the Osram number 69471 since it was clearly in the first link, plus I'm more use to using the specs number. Also I was looking more for Philips at that time, and with nobody ever posting any real info on a replacement, I only spent enough time to find one that works.

But the fact is Osram 69471 - P-VIP 200/1.0 P21.5a - is a aftermarket. That is what the "a" on the end means. That is the only reason you can buy it. Its also a 5KV ignition, not 15KV. It would have a "h" before the "a" if it was 15kv.

Philips "aftermarket" will usually have a PHI in front of a number, but I never found it and just went by the specs number. Which most distributors use a form of that number, but some like to change it to begin with something like RPP,ect. Especially if its Osram they are selling.

I've heard rumors of fake bulbs with names stamped on but its rare, but I think its kind of cleaned up by now. I never ran into one and I've been involved in one way or another, replacing many, many hundreds of bulbs in rear projection.

I'm not trying to be difficult or anything, but I really don't care what the retail price is. But I didn't bother putting links to distributors that normally on sell to people that have accounts running a business. Even though almost all of them will sell to the public in some form. To be honest, if you are paying much more than the links then you are being over charged.

Yes, the Jury is still out I reckon on how these lamps will last but I was never impressed with Iwasaki that JVC used at that time. Plus it appears nobody even knows who they used for the latest models. But the Philips I have is working fine at 250 hours, so we will see. If it don't work out, then thats the way it goes sometimes, yet I still rather have a Osram or Philips built lamp, than Iwasaki.
post #3983 of 4190
Quote:
Originally Posted by Larry J View Post

Well, I'm not really sure what you mean by aftermarket, since it can be many different things. First off, I only buy from main distributors and at least two of the links I gave I know sell real Osram. But I think all three are OK. Which I did that because people were asking where to buy in the forum and by PM.

I didn't bother posting the Osram number 69471 since it was clearly in the first link, plus I'm more use to using the specs number. Also I was looking more for Philips at that time, and with nobody ever posting any real info on a replacement, I only spent enough time to find one that works.

But the fact is Osram 69471 - P-VIP 200/1.0 P21.5a - is a aftermarket. That is what the "a" on the end means. That is the only reason you can buy it. Its also a 5KV ignition, not 15KV. It would have a "h" before the "a" if it was 15kv.

Philips "aftermarket" will usually have a PHI in front of a number, but I never found it and just went by the specs number. Which most distributors use a form of that number, but some like to change it to begin with something like RPP,ect. Especially if its Osram they are selling.

I've heard rumors of fake bulbs with names stamped on but its rare, but I think its kind of cleaned up by now. I never ran into one and I've been involved in one way or another, replacing many, many hundreds of bulbs in rear projection.

I'm not trying to be difficult or anything, but I really don't care what the retail price is. But I didn't bother putting links to distributors that normally on sell to people that have accounts running a business. Even though almost all of them will sell to the public in some form. To be honest, if you are paying much more than the links then you are being over charged.

Yes, the Jury is still out I reckon on how these lamps will last but I was never impressed with Iwasaki that JVC used at that time. Plus it appears nobody even knows who they used for the latest models. But the Philips I have is working fine at 250 hours, so we will see. If it don't work out, then thats the way it goes sometimes, yet I still rather have a Osram or Philips built lamp, than Iwasaki.

Aftermarket was probably a wrong description. I mean the cheaper copies/clones/counterfeit bulbs. There may be many bulbs that have the same specs, but they all don't perform the same. They may be 200W, 1.0 arc gap, etc. but they may not have the same spectrum. As I mentioned, it will be the light spectrum and its stability that will prove most important.
post #3984 of 4190
I am in a total light controlled room with RS2 and when the screen goes
dark black I finally noticed for the first time that my blacked out room wasn't black. The led's from all my equipment lit the screen up a light
grey. Eliminated the leds and now have a dark screen. Funny I never
noticed this before.

Also I have not noticed any bluring at 60 hertz but have with 24fps.

Over all very happy with the picture quality and this thread for making
my choice extremely easy to decide on.
post #3985 of 4190
Quote:
Originally Posted by GlenC View Post

I have finally got a OSRAM bulb to replace the JVC. Initial performance looks promising. Lumens are up nearly 25% from a new JVC bulb. I will have to get some hours on it to see where it goes from here. I will be watching light output and spectrum and the resulting colorspace.

Recent re-calibration of a customers RS2 with about 900 hours showed significant fall off in red energy, loss of about 20% from the measurements at 100 hours.

NOTE: The "OSRAM" link is not mine..... something with the website.

Glen - Does this customer's RS2 use the Osram lamp? Sorry it wasn't entirely clear from your post.

Also, wondering what the Osram spectrum looks like compared to the OEM lamp. Any significant differences?

After dialing in my color space and gamma (both HD and SD profiles) using a VideoEQ PRO I have to say my RS1x still looks darn good even with a 3 year old lamp with 1400 hours on it. I only use it occasionally so that's why the low hours. But looking at probably replacing it next year and keeping the current one as an emergency backup and think I'll go this route with the Osram. (I'll have another cage I can use so I don't have to disassemble this one.)

The OEM lamp can be re-oriented in the cage (albeit very carefully) with the top side upright for an inverted/ceiling (which I have), just need to be *really* careful bending the lead coming from the center of the reflector when moving the connector back to the other side to where the receptacle in the cage is. I did it to mine about an hour ago since I've had some uniformity issues and a buddy also with an RS1 just suggested trying this to see it it helps. We'll see tonight, I guess!
post #3986 of 4190
Quote:
Originally Posted by Doug G View Post

Glen - Does this customer's RS2 use the Osram lamp? Sorry it wasn't entirely clear from your post.

Also, wondering what the Osram spectrum looks like compared to the OEM lamp. Any significant differences?

After dialing in my color space and gamma (both HD and SD profiles) using a VideoEQ PRO I have to say my RS1x still looks darn good even with a 3 year old lamp with 1400 hours on it. I only use it occasionally so that's why the low hours. But looking at probably replacing it next year and keeping the current one as an emergency backup and think I'll go this route with the Osram. (I'll have another cage I can use so I don't have to disassemble this one.)

The OEM lamp can be re-oriented in the cage (albeit very carefully) with the top side upright for an inverted/ceiling (which I have), just need to be *really* careful bending the lead coming from the center of the reflector when moving the connector back to the other side to where the receptacle in the cage is. I did it to mine about an hour ago since I've had some uniformity issues and a buddy also with an RS1 just suggested trying this to see it it helps. We'll see tonight, I guess!

The customers RS2 has the OEM bulb .... Just installed a new OEM bulb and the color space increased on green and red, but significantly different from the first OEM bulb (original Radiance color gamut settings were not close)

Still haven't measured the new Osram bulb spectrum. At this point, the projector is absolutely the brightest it has ever been. I also think we don't notice reduced color gamut as much as we notice overly wide gamuts.
post #3987 of 4190
Well the Philips bulb I got is still brighter than the Iwasaki that JVC sends out at around 400 hours. Which makes the picture look better than any JVC lamp I ever tried.

Also I never said anything about someone putting copies, clones or whatever in the RS2. I only mentioned Philips or Osram. Heck, some might call Iwasaki a copy if not aware they do attempt to make these types of bulbs, as they are into all kinds of lightning. Maybe I been lucky but I've never got a copy that had the brand name on it myself. The one's I've seen that others have purchased usually don't have anything on the bulb, or if they do its obvious its not a OEM. Phoenix, which builds those DC lamps for Toshiba rear projection didn't have much info the bulb either though.

I'm also somewhat curious to see what Glen will say about the light spectrum, but I have no idea why it wouldn't be correct since its Osram. Its going to vary anyway, but Osram and Philips make a big deal out of building them right.

I don't think I'd heard before about inverting the bulb making uniformity issues better. Its suppose to help stop the flickering from occurring if done about ever 500 hours or so even though I've never tried it. Also hoping the Philips don't start that also. But if it does I'd almost start having to blame the PJ design.

But for now I'm glad I was able to find a Philips bulb at a much lower price, even comparing at JVC distributor pricing, and is still working better for the RS2 I've tried it in.
post #3988 of 4190
Quote:
Originally Posted by Larry J View Post

I don't think I'd heard before about inverting the bulb making uniformity issues better. Its suppose to help stop the flickering from occurring if done about ever 500 hours or so even though I've never tried it.

One side of the reflector is clearly labeled "TOP" but can't seem to find any good technical reason its required to be oriented that way. I know they calibrate the uniformity LUTs in tabletop mode and use standard offsets for inverted mount which makes them less than optimal in that config if the individual lamp profile doesn't conform well to the model used to generate them. (I did try tabletop mode and saw no discernible difference in my uniformity.) As far as I can tell, the only real requirement for UHP mercury vapor lamps is a horizontal orientation. So now I'm thinking the top labeling has more to do with proper cooling/convection as the top and bottom are vented whereas the sides aren't, and obviously proper cooling is critical.
post #3989 of 4190
Didn't see any change in uniformity last night with the lamp in its new orientation, but no problems (reduced brightness, flickering, etc.) either. Guess I expected this result but it was worth a shot, anyway.
post #3990 of 4190
Quote:
Originally Posted by Doug G View Post

One side of the reflector is clearly labeled "TOP" but can't seem to find any good technical reason its required to be oriented that way. I know they calibrate the uniformity LUTs in tabletop mode and use standard offsets for inverted mount which makes them less than optimal in that config if the individual lamp profile doesn't conform well to the model used to generate them. (I did try tabletop mode and saw no discernible difference in my uniformity.) As far as I can tell, the only real requirement for UHP mercury vapor lamps is a horizontal orientation. So now I'm thinking the top labeling has more to do with proper cooling/convection as the top and bottom are vented whereas the sides aren't, and obviously proper cooling is critical.

I'm not really sure either about the word TOP being stamped on some lamps. Actually I never paid much attention to it. Also its listed almost as if its part of the specs, since it common to see TOP UHP or TOP Osram P-VIP before the details of the lamp, when looking at listings. Plus some lamps are round without air gaps.

I've simply never been told or read to go by the word TOP as how to position in the housing. I guess it could matter more if the lamp is square or round. Plus lots of times the wires won't reach if placed it a position that is much different than the way its shipped in the housing.

But as you said, the main thing is if a lamp has air gaps, as the one in the RS2 has, need to make sure they are on the open side of the housing. But that's the only way it will fit in the RS2 housing unless the wrong lamp is used.

But if it was a square lamp and put where the air gaps were in the wrong place, the lamp will fail fairly fast because of the heat. Lots of times I've seen cage type fans used to blow air through those air gaps.
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