RS2/ PRO-FPJ1 Owners: Setup Discussion Thread - Page 139

I thought somebody was selling Osram Bulbs in a JVC case online already but I can't find the link now.

OzzieP, This is what you were looking for. Personally it is usually the housing that is "off" slightly when you get these third parties involved. I'd much rather use the JVC housing. I don't think this place uses a JVC housing though.
Edited by pentium7 - 1/15/13 at 2:59pm

Ordered from this place despite hesitations since they're recommended by a few people already and the fact I have 4 JVC original housings here to use.

Can one or more of you recommend the hardware I need to use to make my connections as I don't want anything to melt or burn or cause any questionable issues on my RS2 beauty.

When I inspected my JVC housings it appears that I will have to cut the wire as it is soldered onto the post. I do have a soldering iron and solder but not sure if it needs to be some kind of high temp or whatnot. Will use whatever is best and tested.

Thanks in advance
Edited by pentium7 - 1/15/13 at 3:24pm

That connection is actually spot-welded, not soldered. I don't think any solder would hold.

"Best practice" would use proper hi-temp connectors crimped by a hydraulic crimp tool (or spot-welded) and stainless steel screws and lock washers. These materials won't oxidize or lose "spring stiffness" over time. The only posts by anybody doing this is GlenC, who offers it as a commercial service.

I am in the process of doing a "best practice" relamp for myself. I've already prepared a housing with the proper hi-temp connectors (bulb arrives tomorrow). I can't overstate how much force it takes to crimp this type of connector. A $4 crimp tool would break before making a dent in a hi-temp connector.

So I used an $8 crimp tool and a vise . Seriously, a heavy-duty crimp tool that's twice as thick as a standard tool, and crimps the entire connector at once, can withstand the force of a vise or hydraulic press crushing it until the jaws close.

--Dan

I installed the new OSRAM lamp and ran it for 1 hour. Like any new bulb, it outputs a lot more red than an old bulb--very "vibrant". I will recalibrate between 50-100 hours and compare the result to my old bulb for which I still have HCFR measurements when I calibrated at the same point.

One small install issue I haven't seen mentioned is that the original lamp has thicker glass in the corners than the OSRAM. The 2 metal clips that hold the lamp in the housing don't touch the glass corners on the OSRAM, so it can move. I just slightly bent the clips until they touched, and verified the lamp won't move in the housing.

--Dan

Is this the same things as from PlanetBulb.com but in the housing already? Would much rather have a plug n' play version than tinker with soldering etc.

http://www.planetbulb.com/jvc-bhl-5009-s-osram-lamp-and-housing/

As would I since my OSRAM bulb only arrives tomorrow and I still have no idea what will be the proper way to connect it to my original JVC housing........

The problem with planetbulb's offering is you have no idea what housing you are going to get, there isn't even a proper picture of it. A lot of burning smells from knockoff housings and many of them don't fit in properly either.

I decided to try them out because they have very good disclaimers, description and warranty on their bulbs. They were one of the few places where I could order an Osram, Philips or JVC replacement bulb and know exactly what I was getting for a decent price. I’m glad I did, because Planet Bulb’s customer service is excellent.

My Osram bulb’s housing wouldn’t install all the way. The top mounting bolt wouldn’t catch the threading, so they RMAed it with a pre-paid shipping label. Many on-line sites make you pay return shipping, but Planet Bulb took care of it.

For my replacement bulb, I opted for the Philips version. I have a Pioneer Pro-FPJ1 (RS2 clone) and Pioneer’s parts site has a “P” designation on the lamp. I’m assuming this means Philips, so I thought I would give that a shot.
http://www.planetbulb.com/jvc-bhl-5009-s-philips-lamp-and-housing/

The Philips version fit much better and mounted correctly. The Osram bulb mounting hardware was probably just slightly off and not a problem with the Osram version itself. Planet Bulb said that they both come from the same manufacturer, so they should be the same. Either way, if there is a defect in the housing, they will take care of you.

The Philips bulb; however, has a burning smell, which the Osram didn’t. I don’t know if it is the bulb or the housing, but Planet Bulb said that the new bulbs could emit a burning smell, but it should burn off soon. If it doesn’t they’ll file another claim with the manufacturer.

If all else fails, they sell genuine JVC bulbs:
http://www.planetbulb.com/products/BHL-5009-S-JVC-Projector--Lamp.html


TL;DR – Excellent service. Give them a shot.

Wow that genuine JVC bulb they sell is practically MSRP only a few bucks less than from JVC directly. My only problem right now is dealing with connecting this OSRAM bulb to my original JVC housing since I have 4 of them. I don't know how high the temps get and which exact parts I should use to ensure I don't have an "accident" inside my RS2.

Highly recommend people follow Dan's advice regarding the ring terminals or anything else on retrofit. Typical ring terminals you find everywhere are tin plated and 75C (167F) rated. Since a little GU10 50W Halogen can reach over 400F you can imagine what the temp of the 200W OSRAM can get to. While your ring terminals etc won't be in the direct path of the light it is going to be much hotter than 75C/167F and if your connector loosens in the slightest, you'll have some problems.

Prepare early it is NOT easy finding the high temp nickel plated steel ring terminals and also isn't really easy to find the stainless steel screws / washers either. I'm in Fort Lauderdale and no one had any of it, even Fastenal had to order and I ended up having to get a heavy duty crimper and the ring terminals from internet store. I ordered some high temp butt connectors so I can extend my short wire and mount the OSRAM bulb so TOP is where the original bulb's TOP is located. The nickel plated steel is rated for 482C/900F so temps won't affect its crimp.

Tried to get in touch with GlenC as I really didn't have hours to deal with this myself but he's been gone. Thanks to Dan for helping me with the parts needed even with those it was still a long search, don't waste your time trying to get them locally it'll likely be a futile effort.

PS: I had to buy 50 pack of both ring terminals and butt connectors if anyone wants some cheap and pays shipping I'd be happy to share them, they're 3M Scotchlok brand. Should have everything in Thursday will report how it goes.

Here's a pic of how to correctly crimp a high-temp connector. The place in the tool for the connector will have a ridge on one side, and a smooth round surface on the other side. The connector seam MUST go on the smooth side. Do not put the seam on the ridge side or it will split the connector open and the wires will stick out.

When properly crimped (jaws nearly touch), the ridge will leave a deep dent in the connector.

The $8 tool shown is an HT-202A, but any similar tool will work as well. You have to put the jaws in a vise to get enough force for a proper crimp, so remove the wires and plug from the housing for easier handling.

--Dan

Pic of my finished OSRAM installation with hi-temp everything stainless M3x4mm, if you use the 4mm long screws and 1xM3 lock washer you don't need to use any washers in between as the screw will not protrude from the post.

It is noticeably brighter I'd compare it to my Samsung PN63C8000 Plasma in the bedroom which is about 2 yrs old which I consider quite bright. I do notice a little bit of red hue on the right side of my screen when no content is being displayed it is in a fairly small section of the screen but definitely there naturally wife says she can't see it.

Dan was right it is tough to crimp those hi-temp nickel plated stainless terminals. I actually had to use the 14-18 crimp because when I placed the terminal in the 20-22 such as you see in the picture above there was no room on the sides for when the terminal crimps and expands to the sides even with a vise that compresses 600-800LB of pressure the crimper would not close enough to secure the wire. After placing into the 14-18 it was no problem but definitely the vise was needed and after I pulled on them pretty hard to make sure no movement.

Did not have a problem with the metal clips they pushed down on the OSRAM lamp and it didn't move with no adjustments.

I found out last night just how HOT the lamp actually gets.....I'm going to say it is 600'F+ can't say for sure as my little cheapy IR thermometer only goes to 450'F and it was showing ---- after installation there was no smell at all, I cleaned my prism with some Carl Zeiss lens wipes http://www.amazon.com/Zeiss-Pre-Moistened-Lens-Cloths-Wipes/dp/B0081LLASG/

I actually bought them at Walmart for $5.00 for 100 pack individually wrapped. Walmart has a 50 pack of wipes with dispenser but the pack has all the wipes in one sealed bag so once you open it they'll dry out quickly. Think of the 100 pack as moist towelettes you get at restaurants that's identical to how they are packaged, be quick with using them though you only get a couple of mins before they dry out and you definitely want them moist as the solution used is really good for getting the grime off. Cleaned my anamorphic lens and my RS2 front lens as well only went through 2 towelettes.

Upon startup with my new OSRAM 20 minutes passed and I decided to switch from high lamp power to normal lamp power, apparently this was a mistake as 5 minutes later RS2 shutoff completely no lights at all, fearing something was loose or bulb blew I waited 30 minutes because also it seemed the cooling fan wasn't on anymore as well. It has been a very long time since my RS2 overheated but after thinking about it I remember this is the behavior. After 30-45 minutes (didn't time it) there was a click and standby red light came on. Removed power plug and pulled the lamp it was still HOT! the metal screws burnt my finger but my connections/wires and the bulb were in perfect condition nothing loose nothing damaged. I'm in South Florida and my RS2 is in an adjacent room also it is mounted in the ceiling with my anamorphic lens partially covering the exhaust output, I added fans 6 small fan array so that cool air blows on the air intake years ago to help with cooling because it used to overheat in the summer time.

That being said I believe that I overheated it because I had it in high lamp mode then switching to normal kicked down the fan speed with the bulb already hot. When I restarted the RS2 I used high altitude mode which does kick up the fan speed a good amount and then I also used high lamp mode which definitely increases fan speed considerably more, being the RS2 is in another room and projects through a small rectangular opening you have to have the room quiet to hear the fan. So for now I am going to leave it on high altitude and high lamp hopefully there are no detrimental issues with doing so. Other than the small red hue I've seen in the right bottom of the screen (only viewable on completely dark screen) I'm happy with it so far with 3-4 hours of viewing on it last night. I'll be happy if it is this bright for 1000-1500 hours at $112 with ship I'd actually rather replace it a little sooner and get more brightness overall vs the JVC that is over 3x the cost and reduces brightness very quickly.


Edited by pentium7 - 2/1/13 at 5:56am

Found another place just slightly cheaper than replacementbulb.com not sure if they are reliable or legit in 100% original OSRAM/Sylvania bulb here it is https://www.interlight.biz/light-bulb/OSRAM-SYLVANIA-69471

Rest of the searches on the internet show asking 130-200 price range.

Here's a PDF of the bulb http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=9&cad=rja&ved=0CGgQFjAI&url=http%3A%2F%2Fassets.sylvania.com%2Fassets%2FDocuments%2F1R3S001GB.6d4bf38a-48d9-4e40-b910-87712d06d229.pdf&ei=A_YLUdCXMI-29gTN5IGQDA&usg=AFQjCNFiHyM1XlX3as59DhbO4bygoCKsBA&bvm=bv.41867550,d.eWU

Ship to me shows 9.95 so they are $12.72 cheaper than replacementbulbs.com

A+ BBB rating with only 1 complaint in 3 years...Reviews http://www.insiderpages.com/b/3714554552/interlight-specialty-bulbs-hammond#reviews

Chatted with one of their CSRs and was told the following:

Adam:
Is there any warranty on the 69471 BARE LAMP ONLY
OSRAM SYLVANIA ? and is it a 100% original OSRAM/Sylvania bulb?
Call accepted by operator Interlight. Currently in room: Adam, Interlight.
Interlight:
Hello, one moment please I will check
Adam:
Thanks
Interlight:
We currently have ILB Brand in stock, has a 3 month warranty. Osram would be 109.50 and has a 3 month warranty
Adam:
Why does your website list false information then?
Adam:
It states specifically 89.95 for OSRAM/Sylvania
Adam:
https://www.interlight.biz/light-bulb/OSRAM-SYLVANIA-69471
Adam:
Does not say compatible brand or anything other than that it is an original bulb as stated with part number
Interlight:
That is an Osram Cross reference, After you add the item to your cart, it would tell you that we ship whatever brand is available and for specific brand requests you have to call
Adam:
Just added to cart and that information does not come up
Interlight:
What is the item number in the shopping cart?
Adam:
P-VIP200/1.0P21.5A - P-VIP200/1.0P21.5A LAMP 52X56 160/200W L600-0385
Adam:
That is what is listed in the shopping cart right now
Interlight:
Ok, That is a standard industry code for the lamp.
Adam:
Well I am still not seeing where you are telling anyone ordering that they aren't getting a genuine osram/sylvania bulb
Interlight:
The Osram listing is a cross reference for that item. Philips, Ushio, Phoenix, Osram, ILB all make the same lamps
Interlight:
Before you place the order, you will get a box that will not allow you to complete the order unless you agree that a compatible for that item may be shipped.
Adam:
That's bait and switch unfortunately most people tend to not like that, it should be stated clearly before anyone even adds it to cart
Interlight:
Every company in the world uses a cross reference, if we do not have that brand in stock, you are given the option before checkouty
Interlight:
You cannot complete your order without agreeing to that
Adam:
anyway appeared it was too good to be true that you had the lowest price on the genuine OSRAM lamp the lamp I would expect to receive would have a stamp on it just like your picture that says OSRAM on it
Interlight:
And you would have been alerted before the sale that you have to agree to accept the compatible
Adam:
Putting a specific brand and picture on the page to add to cart then thinking someone has to read a terms and conditions to know they aren't getting the item pictured and described is at best deceptive
Adam:
Anyways thanks for the info, glad I asked!



TL;DR.......Too good to be true? YEP.... Replacementlightbulbs.com still the lowest price.
Edited by pentium7 - 2/1/13 at 9:40am

AVOID interlight.biz! As you discovered, nothing on that page indicates that you won't be getting a genuine OSRAM lamp. If you add it to the cart, and start checking out, the description in the cart will not show OSRAM or 69471. It will have a part # (L600-0385) that if you search on their site, shows a completely different web page that mentions you'll get a bulb made by one of 3 different no-name manufacturers (YODN / DNGO / GLORY). Another clue is the bulb life shows 1500 hours, not 2000 like a real OSRAM.

Very subtle, very easy to miss, and VERY deceptive.


--Dan
Edited by dhnjp1 - 2/1/13 at 12:01pm

Okay,

I have done very heavy experimentation of the JVC lamp. I was getting the white uniformity changing on the Osram and the Philips lamps as they heat up. When they first start up they are fine. If you watch in the cold they are also. So I have modified the cage to let more air flow in.

I also wondered about those ridges in front of the lens on the Osram/Philips. So first things first I grabbed my Philips which had the most hours on it (400 hours) and put it on a grinder. I took off those ridges so the lens laid flat on the JVC housing.



The Osram and the Philips. Note the ridges in front of the Lens.



The Philips with the ridges taken off.

Next I modified the cage. I took off all the sides except the side that holds the electrical point. This allows no heat to generate in the cage. It is interesting that the new JVC lamps for the latest projectors are like this in design. Completely open.



Lastly. Make sure the part of the lamp labelled TOP is next to the power point. It makes a difference. The lamp in the post three before mine will discolor in time. It will take about 100 hours or so. It is upside down. If you look at the JVC lamp they are labeled Top also and have the Top located at the power point.

This Philips was my worst lamp. It had very heavy white discolour to the left hand edge (projector inverted). It is now my best lamp. Absolutely perfect now. Interestingly. I have a brand new JVC lamp. Just 2 hours on it. This Philips with 400+ hours on it is brighter and has better uniformity. I'm going to use the JVC as a spare. Eventually I will convert it to my modified cage design. So I have a new JVC, new Osram and 400 hours on this Philips. I think I'm set for lamps for a while now.

I hope this is helpful. A lot of mucking around, however I am thrilled. I always want my stuff to be the best it can be.

Ta Dono
Edited by Badas - 2/5/13 at 12:16pm

What worked great for me was to use high altitude mode (increased fan speed quite a bit) and then I went back to high lamp mode I enjoy the extra brightness but importantly also is fan speed is even higher.

After both of those options there is a TON of heat coming out of the exhaust port and I noticed the lamp door is definitely way cooler than it was before making the changes. Yes the unit it noticeably louder but it is on the other side of the wall shooting through so it is tough to hear even with audio muted and impossible to hear with any audio turned on in the viewing room.

Projector is located in my office (other side of viewing room wall) and I notice the noise when it starts up but it doesn't even bother me while I'm working in here. I'd rather be on high lamp mode and get a few hundred hours or even 500 hours less on the lamp and get the bright pop that it shows now. It comes VERY close to my Samsung 63" newer model plasma real bright and real crisp.

Yes thats what I remember reading. To bad they do not use a housing that fits in properly.

How many hours before you guys have found a need to replace it?
I am currently at 950 hours with my bulb and still pretty happy with it.

By lowering the ridges it has fixed the creamish edges to white. It is almost like it was getting a little reflection of the JVC housing because it was elevated back a bit.

Man. Mine is bright enougth. It is blinding. I run a 16x9,110 inch, 1.4 gain screen and I sit at a 1:1 screen width ratio. I have to use normal lamp mode. Too bright and projector to loud in High lamp and High altitude mode.

Link here:

http://www.blu-ray.com/community/gallery.php?member=Badas

With the cage modified and the lamp turned around to TOP. Everything is perfect. I agree. Once the lamps Dim too much. I will toss them.

Dono

I am very surprised seeing all your pics that you didn't go with anamorphic lens and 2.35:1 screen. I'm on a 120" 2.35:1 Stewart StudioTek 130 I believe the size @ 16x9 the image is 96" . When setting this up and buying all the equipment I did months of research and it was estimated at least 75% of all movies are anamorphic widescreen and to date 5 years later I check every 10 or so blurays being shipped from netflix to me and they are indeed 7 or 8 out of 10 in 2.35-2.40:1 ratio. I can NOT stand BLACK BARS eating up my real estate. We have a 63" plasma in bedroom for viewing 16x9 movies with an incredible theater in there as well. All speakers in both rooms are Focal Electra BE except the subs which are Velodyne 1812 signature and bedroom sub is a SVS cylinder due to space saving.

I have a motorized screen masking for my screen which still needs to be tweaked and integrated into my control 4 system. My anamorphic lens is motorized and it works with a 1 button push on my C4 remote also with Oppo BDP-103 I can press 1 button on my remote and it will do the vertical image stretch so where it used to be a hassle to do now it is literally 2 button presses and my screen is fully widescreen cinemascope once you lose those @#$% black bars you'll never want to see them again.

LOL,

I'm not the norm. I have a huge range of movies. 980 blu's I think. However my range is the Hollywood Blockbusters to French, Asian and old. Sure the Hollywood movies are scope, however the old ones aren't and a lot of the French and Asian movies have Subtitles that can't be moved into the picture.

Believe me 16x9 works best for me. I love it. It meets all my movie taste right in the middle. Scope small bars no subtitle issues, 16x9 fills up the screen, 4x3 (I have a lot) small bars. Perfect.

I did try a scope. I un-installed it after a month and sold it and the screen a while back.

Ta Dono

My RS2 Pioneer clone has almost 2,000 hours on it. Tonight, the "please replace bulb" onscreen indicator came on. Any idea how long the lamp can last after getting this indicator?

My projector has fairly poor convergence so spending $400 on a JVC lamp doesn't make much sense. I have zero interest in a lower priced non JVC lamp. The color gamut on this thing is poor to say the least. It' been a bad day. This happens tonight and earlier today my old Lumagen scaler went out on me which I used to help out the gamut somewhat. I need to find a newer used JVC for a decent price. I was hoping that I could find a used RS55 before the RS2 crapped out but no such luck.. Probably the worst part is that I can't sell the RS2 clone with no lamp and poor convergence to help pay for a newer one.

Thanks,
Tom

Tom,

Sorry to hear but IT DEPENDS, YMMV. At one time I've the Sony that flashed at 2000 hours as well, but I kept on playing till about 2,300; there was no explosion and the picture was not bad.

At one time I also had the Pioneer model but sold if with under 1,000 hours.

GL.

Thanks. I'll just have to hope for the best. I sure wish the JVC lamps were cheaper.

I spoke with Lumagen regarding my scaler and the have no clue what it happening. They are however going to brainstorm for a potential fix.

Tom

My bulb replacement warning came at 1900 hours. I had been experiencing occasional flicker prior to the warning, which I'd assumed was an HDMI gift. The picture is otherwise still fine. I've bought an Osram bulb for replacement and taken pentium7 up on his generous ring/butt connector offer. Just need to find the screws and washers for the surgery to commence.

Cheers, Ian

There one guy on this thread that ran the lamp up to 5000 hours. Posted a screenshot of it.
I bet it was dim. I have ran one lamp up to 2500 hours, however it got to dim.
If you get the flicker stick the projector into high lamp mode for an hour. Switch back and then you are all good. If you are already in high lamp switch to normal. The flicker is the arc hitting the side wall. Burn it differently for a while will change the arc. I have done this lots of times.
I have now run my Philips lamp for another 150 hours. This is the one I filed the edges down on. All great. Fantastic picture. Perfect white uniformity. I was going to throw this and the Osram away. However now I have made those mods it is better than the JVC lamp.

Dono

Dono,

Great flicker tip - I'll try it (thanks).

What did you do to protect the glass on the front of the bulb when grinding off the raised corners? Masking tape? Did you use a hand file or grinder?

Cheers, Ian

I really didn't care to much for that lamp, it was really badly discoloured down the left hand side (white uniformity). I had used it for 400 hours and gave up on it. I was going to throw it anyway so it didn't matter if I broke it. I just used a grinder that I have at work. Very carefully grinded the edges. It is now my best and brightest lamp. I also have a brand new JVC lamp (2 hours) as a spare and the Osram (100 hours). I haven't grinded down the edges on the Osram yet. No need I will use up the Philips.

Dono

Osram bulb up and running and looking good. Thanks to Pentium7 for the terminals.

I had to buy 50 m3 x 4mm stainless screws and lock washers. If anyone needs some, PM me and I'll send for postage.

Cheers, Ian

Is there an easy way to turn on V-Stretch for 2.35 on the RS2?

It seems to be buried in the menu, and it would be nice to do it with one button.
Edited by OzzieP - 3/28/13 at 10:54am

This is from the 1st post of this thread.

"Your RS2's main version must be 229 for these commands to work. There is no way to upgrade.



New RS-232 commands:



V-Stretch ON: 21 89 01 5653 31 0A

V-Stretch OFF: 21 89 01 5653 30 0A





New IR commands:



V-Stretch ON: 0000 006C 0001 0012 0142 00A2 0013 003D 0013 003D 0013 0013 0013 0013 0013 003D 0013 003D 0013 003D 0013 0013 0013 003D 0013 003D 0013 0013 0013 0013 0013 0013 0013 003D 0013 0013 0013 0013 0013 033F 0013 003D



V-Stretch OFF: 0000 006C 0001 0012 0142 00A2 0013 003D 0013 003D 0013 0013 0013 0013 0013 003D 0013 003D 0013 003D 0013 0013 0013 0013 0013 0013 0013 003D 0013 0013 0013 0013 0013 003D 0013 0013 0013 0013 0013 033F 0013 003D"



What this means is that if you have a later build of the RS2, like the RS2X instead of the original RS2U, these codes for V-Stretch ON/Off will work without having to do menu macros.



The ir codes are on a Word doc. Copy and paste these using an ir program, like Pronto Edit."