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RS2/ PRO-FPJ1 Owners: Setup Discussion Thread - Page 140

post #4171 of 4219
Thanks, that is very helpful, but I just found out my Harmony 900 remote does not let me enter IR Codes manually. mad.gif
post #4172 of 4219
After changing the bulb, the orange 'light' LED is still lit. Is there a problem, or is some sort of reset required?

Cheers, Ian
post #4173 of 4219
Would this be an original lamp?
I need to replace my lamp on a Pioneer PRO FPJ-1.
post #4174 of 4219
Sorry for being so late on this, just picked up a used FPJ1 recently and seem to have problems with hdmi issues. When watching a blu Ray from the ps3, the contenet plays judt fine, but when I try to watch TV shows from the Netflix from the same ps3(assuming the Netflix is at 60hz vs BR at 24hz) the picture goes in and out. It seems like a hdmi sync issue because when the picture drops the prjoector gives a "no signal" indicator, but the picture is coming from the same source, same cable, direct from ps3 to projector. Any suggestions?
post #4175 of 4219
Did you try both HDMI inputs? I watched blu-ray and Netflix with my Panny bdt220 with no issue before.
post #4176 of 4219
Ya, tried hdmi 2, and no problem. Thanks.
post #4177 of 4219
No one able to offer any advice on this?

"After changing the bulb, the orange 'light' LED is still lit. Is there a problem, or is some sort of reset required?"

Cheers, Ian
post #4178 of 4219
yes, there is a reset required, a button you hold down while you power it on if I remember correctly. Hopefully you have the manual (or can find it online) to check the sequence, I can never remember it.

You should do it because it also resets your hours to 0.
post #4179 of 4219
^

In standby mode.

Press Exit, Enter, Hide then hold Arrow down for 2 seconds or more.

Standby indicator will flash for 3 seconds and then go back to standby.

Once turned back on counter should be back to Zero.
post #4180 of 4219
Thanks!
post #4181 of 4219
These units still present a very compelling image. I recently picked one up from a fellow avsforum member; low mileage and in really nice condition. I was surprised to find the motion handling perfectly adequate, coming from a modern dlp. There's certainly a lot less motion smear than what my old Panasonic pt-ae2000 used to exhibit. Coming from a BenQ W1070 I expected a big hit in sharpness, and it is true that the BenQ is certainly sharper. However I have to say that with a darbee darblet in the chain, the perceivable levels of detail really are very close between the two units. Black levels do of course heavily favour the JVC. And on the subject of black levels, compared to a previously owned Sony VPL-HW20, the JVC is far better. The HW20 has similar image quality to the HW-30, with around 7000/1 native contrast and a discrete DI, but it's just not nearly as impressive in dark scenes as the JVC.

Overall very impressed with this old timer. It's hard to quantify, but there's a natural, analog like look to the image that isn't there with the other projectors I've had. Of course the problem now is that I'm probably going to want to upgrade to a more recently released JVC.
post #4182 of 4219
Thread Starter 
And you gotta love the fact that the pj will internally scale to allow use of an anamorphic lens. I built a macro in my Control4 system that enables the V-Stretch on or off and slides the lens in or out. So cool
Edited by CCLAY - 5/13/13 at 11:01am
post #4183 of 4219
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by OzzieP View Post

Is there an easy way to turn on V-Stretch for 2.35 on the RS2?

It seems to be buried in the menu, and it would be nice to do it with one button.
Sorry for the late response Ozzie but I don't get around to this thread much anymore.

If your Harmony is mapped to do the same functions as the projectors remote, do like I did. Do a macro that starts from the very first screen on the pj's menu, then do a sequence of right, right, enter, down, down, enter, etc., etc. until you have turned on V-Stretch. From memory I can't recall the exact sequence but it's just a matter of going into the menu and doing it. The one thing you have to do is that you absolutely MUST sequence all the way back out of the menu to where you started in your macro otherwise the next time you engage your macro from your Harmony, it won't start from the right spot and will end up turning something else in the menu on or off. Make sense?

You will have to experiment a bit with delays and such in between commands but it works perfect every time once you get it and it's actually fast enough to where it's hard to notice. If someone does, they say 'what the heck was that?' Kinda fun
post #4184 of 4219
Reporting back from installation of OSRAM bulb 2/1/13 till today 5/14/13 just checked I have 485 hours. The only problem I had was it ran hot and shutdown because I changed from high lamp mode to normal so it was my fault really as the bulb was too hot. After that I changed to high altitude and high lamp so the fan is on high speed. I have the UH480 anamorphic lens that covers the front exhaust port when it isn't in the light path so that probably is why I need the extra fan speed to cool it. Since making those changes it hasn't had 1 blip its been perfect. So bright compared and colors are terrific.

It is a nice feeling knowing that when I get upwards of 1500+ hours that replacement will cost me $100+$12ship and since the connections are already done it'll take 5 minutes to swap out the bulb in the housing. I'll be sure I use my lens cleaners on my prism each time and not wait 4 yrs this time smile.gif Still loving this projector now that my prism is clean and bulb is fresh and bright. Want to go to 3D eventually but probably not for another 2-5 years.
post #4185 of 4219
^

I'm running the Philips version at the moment. Got 785 hours on it. I've had the occasional ficker issue which I fix on Hi Lamp for an hour then it goes away. Run mine on Low lamp mode. Low fan setting. No over heating issues. I have the Osram that has 100 hours and a new JVC as spares.
post #4186 of 4219
I realize no one will believe this.... but I had over 5000 hours on my bulb before it "popped" last week. Granted the new bulb is a night and day difference, but my room is so dark - the old bulb was still doing a very good job. I have now lowered the brightness and contrast back down to almost "0" settings.
post #4187 of 4219
^

Well done. I have seen others that have made it to 5000 hours or more. I myself find the lamps are too dim for my setup at about 1500 hours. I'm quite happy to toss them away and get a replacement.
post #4188 of 4219
Quote:
Originally Posted by zigzag666 View Post

I realize no one will believe this.... but I had over 5000 hours on my bulb before it "popped" last week. Granted the new bulb is a night and day difference, but my room is so dark - the old bulb was still doing a very good job. I have now lowered the brightness and contrast back down to almost "0" settings.

I believe it. My lamp just died within the last few weeks at 8647 hours.

Wayne
post #4189 of 4219
Quote:
Originally Posted by pentium7 View Post

Reporting back from installation of OSRAM bulb 2/1/13 till today 5/14/13 just checked I have 485 hours.
My OSRAM bulb is also working perfectly since 1/16/13 (now at 90 hours, woo hoo). The image is so good that I haven't bothered to get out my calibration gear. I really should measure it around 100 hours...

--Dan
post #4190 of 4219
Thread Starter 
I want to thank everyone here that has contributed so much to this thread. Hard to believe it's been almost 6 years since I started it. I absolutely love my RS2. I don't see myself going 3D anytime soon so unless this thing blows up, it's staying in my theater for good.

A lot of excellent posts. Thanks to everyone for the posts about the replacement lamps, especially Toddious for the 'how to' and pics. I just ordered myself the Osram bulb so those pics will help a lot. And thanks for the kind offerings from Pentium7 and isb for the screws and crimp connectors. Much appreciated.

I've seen the few posts about the exhaust venting out the front. If there was a major wish of anything different on my RS2, it would've been that they vented that out the side or rear. It directs the fan noise right into the room, which kinda sucks. And the heat. If you have a lens system, the hot air blows right onto the lens when it's in the 'out' position. My cure for that was I made a little diverter that sends the air(and noise) off to the side. Works pretty well to re-direct fan noise and I rest comfortable watching anything non-anamorphic that no heat is blowing onto my expensive but worth every penny Panamorph. I will post a pic when I pull of my cover to do my bulb.

Another little quirk is that there is no 'direct' command for VStretch, but my fix was to make a macro of commands to go thru the menu and enable/disable it as needed. I do this thru my Control4 system and it works perfect. Adam, I sent you a pm with my number so call me and I'll try and help you with that.

Thanks again to everyone and happy viewing!!

Chris
post #4191 of 4219
Sad to report that 2 days ago my OSRAM bulb went dim, really really dim. I have about 660 hours on it after 4.5 months of use. I'm hoping that this was just a bad bulb. Should I try another I'm not sure I've used the Genuine JVCs and always had 1500-2000 hours with only slight dimming after 1000 hours. It is so dim I don't even want to watch anything on it.

Just got off the phone with replacementbulbs.com the pleasant lady on the phone said that they don't list the RS2 as compatible so I mentioned this thread and tried to explain to her that the specs were compatible. However the technical manager Ron is gone until Monday 6/24/13 and he will have to verify the specs and approve a replacement. I then asked her if it would be under warranty if he determines it is compatible with the RS2 and she said he would have to determine that. All I really wanted to know if this was a possible fluke and if I should be confident ordering another one. She had no answers for me. So I'm stuck for at least a week with a backup bulb (thankfully I have one).

Could it be high lamp mode? I always ran the genuine JVC on high lamp mode with no problems. Anyone else have the OSRAM from replacementbulbs.com with high amount of hours on it that can comment? Have any alternative bulbs become available in the 5 months since I installed?

Attached are pictures notice a spider looking egg in the middle? Definitely visual signs of a problem.



Edited by pentium7 - 6/19/13 at 4:02pm
post #4192 of 4219
^

I'm running the Philips at the moment altho I do own the Osram as well. I have noted that both of these run hotter than the JVC. A lot hotter. I run on low lamp so I haven't experienced your issue. I have run the Philips for 880 hours. No issues. No spider cracks like your picture.

Did you see my picture a while back. Cutting the cage. Making it vent better. It certainly helps air flow. This is how I use mine now.
post #4193 of 4219
Badas where did you get the philips can you shoot me the link? replacementbulbs.com is verifying with OSRAM rep on Wed and the manager has said something about if the original was hard wired that the OSRAM is probably not suitable. I've directed him to this forum but unsure he's read it. I definitely don't want to spent another $100 for a bulb that lasts 4.5 months and 660 hours.

Going to check those pictures where you increased airflow.
post #4194 of 4219
Wow pentium7, yours looks really bad. My original JVC lamp had a lot of crazing on the reflector, but no bubbles like yours. I hope they replace yours and don't use the hard-wired bit to weasel out. If the connection caused any problem there'd be signs of excess heat on the terminals.

I just checked my OSRAM bulb (130 hours in normal mode) and it looks brand new. No crazing, cracks or bubbles on the reflector. Wires & connectors look perfect too. So far no flickers or any problems.

Anybody have an OSRAM bulb with over 500 hours?

--Dan
post #4195 of 4219
got to 2700 hours on my first osram. it wasnt dead but was eventually too dim. also failed to strike once near the end. my new osram has 450 hours on it. works great
post #4196 of 4219
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Boggle View Post

got to 2700 hours on my first osram. it wasnt dead but was eventually too dim. also failed to strike once near the end. my new osram has 450 hours on it. works great
That's good to hear. I have my OSRAM bulb all ready to install but after seeing Adam's bulb, was hesitant on putting it in. Adam, maybe you just got a bad one or running in high mode was the culprit?
post #4197 of 4219
I've been told by Ron @ replacementlightbulbs.com that he's never had one returned defective.... and apparently there's 1 in 1000 that are defective during manufacturing. So it is possible high lamp mode or that too much heat is being generated inside the JVC housing.

They have the Philips version available for $131 so 30% more than the Osram, anyone have any thoughts if I should use the Philips instead? I'm also thinking of maybe altering my housing like Badas did to allow airflow all around the lamp. I'd say there's definitely a good possibility excess heat contributed but my genuine JVC lamps (4 of them) all were on high lamp mode and lasted 1800-2000+ hours.

Ron said "Given the type of lamp you had it may have had the cable hard wired to the lamp which would make the lamp something not considered user replaceable. How you connect the lamp is important because of the high kilo-volt ignition voltage."

I really don't believe this to be the issue since I installed exactly as so many others have. I was so happy with the Osram it was rivaling the colors and brightness of my plasma so this is a real downer.
post #4198 of 4219
Sorry pentium7, I couldn't find where I got the Philips from. It was sold as complete unit with a fake JVC case.

I pulled out my lamp to take photo's for you of the increased air flow. Checked my lamp with 880 hours at normal lamp mode. No damage at all. Tried taking a photo of the inside lamp and I couldn't get a good one. Just take my word for it. No discolour or damage.



This is the side the air flow hits the lamp. My projector is ceiling mounted so the right hand side on the photo is where the heat rises. I have no cage above it. Heat just clears off the lamp.



Another advantage. When I check the lamp I can check those conectors easily



Bad Photo of the inside lamp. No damage. 880 hours, Normal lamp mode.
Edited by Badas - 6/25/13 at 4:34pm
post #4199 of 4219
Long story short after a week going back and forth and Ron @ replacementlightbulbs getting a physical visit from Osram rep they won't offer a credit of ANY kind..... I think it screams terrible customer loyalty since Ron states they have NEVER had a bulb with this problem in such a short period of time. Anyway I ordered one more and it'll be the last one if it doesn't go at least 1000-1500 hours.

I'm on the fence about modifying the housing though. Did you just use a dremel? Should I go ahead and carve it out? Won't dust and debris get in there easier?
post #4200 of 4219
I'm on the fence about modifying the housing though. Did you just use a dremel? Should I go ahead and carve it out? Won't dust and debris get in there easier?

I don't know what a dremel is. I used a hacksaw and a grinder.

I haven't had any dust problems in a year of use. However my room is a dedicated HT room and is very, very clean. It would have to be very extreme for dust to find it's way to the lamp system. It has to travel a long way and around corners to get to it.
I think the casing is massive over kill. JVC don't want anyone to burn their fingers. but it has to let airflow in.
I have noted that my white uniformity and grey scale tracking stays far more accurate when the lamp is cooler. That is the main reason for my cutback design.

One thing I have thought of that could be a concern for you is the extra heat. I know you use high lamp mode. That puts out some serious heat from the Osram. If the case was like mine will the fan blow it all out or would the heat build up internally inside the projector causing other issues???
Has anyone had a overheating warning? I haven't.
In that regard the JVC casing traps some heat in which could be better.
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