BenQ W 5000 little Test - Page 168

Big L I finally got around to starting my calibration. All I was able to complete so far is to capture my current gray-scale. The colors (Using the settings you suggested above) are all pretty accurate. There is a bit of a green push.

My biggest concern was the FTL. I'm only getting 5.1 FTL using your settings on a 112 inch screen. If I switch to Dynamic, with normal bulb and BC on then I can get it up to 11 or 12 FTL but the colors are horrible.

I read in one of your old posts that your FTL is about 8.4.

My W5000 is mounted 15.33 feet from the wall. The zoom on it is at about 90%. If mounting the PJ closer to the screen will help my FTL I'll probably do it.

I'm still looking at building a screen out of Wilsonart Designer white laminate (1.4 gain). I'll post my HCFR results when I get home.

My screen is smaller (about 95-96" diagonal) so that is one reason but I think it should not be that big of a difference. If I remember correctly my calibrated settings were about 25% less FtL compared to non-calibrated normal color temp. So if you get much lower number than that my settings may not work in your unit. What is your manual IRIS setting? Mine is 5.

I checked my old notes and I was getting way over 30Ftl in dynamic mode, normal c/t, BC on, manual iris 19.

Have you checked that your probe placement is correct? That could explain low readings?

Mine is near max zoom maybe 80-90%.

Please do.

Holy god HCFR is confusing. I loaded my calibration results from yesterday but it doesn't report any of my FTL info. Just the info along the top.

Someone really needs to find a way to make calibration easier. It's an insanely frustrating process.

How far should my sensor be placed from the screen? Right now my Eyeone LT is 3 to 4 inches away as per the guide. My IRIS is set to 5.

The picture quality is very good, in fact I think it's one of the best projectors I've seen so I must be doing something wrong with the sensor.

I'd say maybe a little bit further away from the screen. Select a test screen with 100% white pattern and put HFCR in continuous reading mode (green play button) and see when it reads the highest FtL and it is the right placement. This step is very important to get correct readings.


I'm still very happy with the picture too. I just hope mine keeps going since it is nearing 1,5k hours and it have had some minor hickups from time to time.

Big Lebowski
Thanks a lot for options.
I have brought calibrations according to your instruction but haven’t found “Measured” menu.
Please be so kind to help me with searching. It will be super if you make a print screen and send it to me.

Russia, Moscow

It is in the ISF menu and there in the CCA you can enter desired and measured values (you cycle between choices with arrow left/right buttons).

Hello,

Yesterday i tried to calibrate my W5000.

This was my workflow :
- I turned on VPR for 1h
- I turned on i1 Display 2 for 1h
- Placed the menu on top left
- Placed the meter on down right of APL Pattern
- I adjusted the brightness/contrast with AVS HD disc
- I adjusted the greyscale entering on Service menu and corrected the Gain/Offser of Warm color temperature
- Lowered the contrast to 44 to not have the drop of green output on 90/100IRE
- Entering on Service Menu and disabled the CCA
- Measured Primary and Secondary with APL Color 75% Saturation for RGBCYMK(and service menu' on to not re-enable CCA) and 100% APL Saturation for White
- Entering on ISF Menù and inserted the x,y measured value (75% RGBCMYK 100% W) and apply CCA on all settings
- Leaved the Desired settings to default of my W5000

After thousand and thousand of attempts i was unable to move the x,y coordinate to HD709 ref.
My triangle gamut not wider of the HD709 triangle so i think that i can move coordinate only inside it, i am correct ?

For example on this (it is not mine) :

i can reach the B,M,C standard point but not R,G,Y)

Also, how can i set the desired Y? I must set before all x,y of desired RGBCMYK and after my Y?
If i understand i must divide my first Y-measured-color with first Y-measured-white and insert in Y desired value, or i must divide it with a new measured value (by repeat test for primary and secondary)

Last question, my Panasonic BD-35 is unable to force 24p on AVSHD, so can i calibrate my 1080p/60hz and manual copy ALL my settings on 1080p/24p ? Or my calibration will not be correct?

Keep this off during calibrating.


Use 100% sat / 100% bright patterns for measured fields. Or at least 100% sat/75% bright but then use it for W too.


When you change desired make sure you hit apply CCA on every color you change.


Yes


It does not really matter as long as you reach desirer x,y and Y. If I remember correctly I did first set x and y and last Y but I seem to remember that changing Y did change x and y alot.

Keep taking readings after changes and repeat prodedure until correct.


I never tried that but I think it will be somewhat different result that way. Even putting lamp from low to high does significant difference so why not different color wheel speed too.

With APL pattern for greyscale or Color is possible to take Dynamic Black on when calibrating.


Refering to AVS-HD wich pattern do you mean? http://dl.dropbox.com/u/8968806/Patterns-AVCHD-MP4.pdf


Yer, i hit apply to every color inserted.


Ok, then tou did first set x,y for all component (RGBCMYK), inserted Y, rechecked x,y
It is correct the method to calculate (If i understand i must divide my first Y-measured-color with first Y-measured-white and insert in Y desired value, or i must divide it with a new measured value (by repeat test for primary and secondary)) ?


... Frak ...

With DB on you have the possibilty of red or green push, red iris open, green iris closed. You can measure aimed at the projector for greyscale. You need to use green or red to check accuracy against other CMS settings and I would probobly avoid red for APL measurements. Do the saturation and measured, then do your luminance, desired, and greyscale.

I know but it will make calibrating very, very hard.


ColorHCFR Windows and there 100% colors. I think you could use 75% colors too but then make sure you use 75% gray as white. Do not mix 75% and 100% measurements when determing measured values. If I remember correcly I used 100% colors for measured values but then 75% for desired. I also used 75% saturation patterns for fine tuning to get saturation levels right but that's another story.


Use table below to determine correct values. Desired values in ISF CCA menu do not go hand in hand with these so you need to measure and then just rise or low values until you measure correct value.
To know what is your desired value for certain color say for red is to measure white Y and then multiply it by 0.2126 that is your target Y for red.

So, you suggest to use 100% saturation Color window for measuring value and 75% saturation Color windows for desired value.


So my workflow for CCA will be :
- Entering measured value
- Tuning all x,y desired value
- Measuring Y of a Color and multiply by the Reference Y

What i don't understand is : i need to reach the new Y calculated by tuning or simply entering the new Y on desired Y ?

Yes. I would also suggest not to try forcing primaries at 100% saturation levels too much but to consider also lower saturation poi0nts 0-75%.

That will work.

You multiply measured white Y by reference Y for each color.

You modify Y by entering new desired Y value then you check is it ok by taking readings and looking at HCFR Y-field. To check if they are correct is to compare each color (RGBRYM) to measured white.

Example: Your white reading in HCFR is 15.000 then your red should be 3.189 and green 10.728 and so on. Then you go to ISF CCA and change your red, green and so on Y-values up or down depending on the readings you just took. Then you again measure all colors and white and again calculate what Y your colors should be compared to white Y. Then repeat procedure.

You need to do this many times because every time you change any Y-value it will make something else moving too. But once you have done this many times your changes are so little that you will reach your goal.

Also remember that adjusting Y's will change x and y so adjust them also during Y adjustments.

Also one in a while take full gray scale readings from 0 to 100%. If it needs to be corrected use ISF CCA white x and y but leave its Y at 1000 always.
Some peoples use service menu color temp settings to adjust that but I rather use only CCA W at that point.

I know this sounds messy but you will get hang of it by following that procedure.

Once you have reached your goal try moving to 0%, 25%, 50%, 75% and 100% saturation measurements and adjustments to get all saturation levels as good as possible. When you get this right you have nearly reference quality display.

I just posted this description of my problem in a thread headed "Vertical Band on BenQ 5000". I first described this problem in this thread post #5000 and it now seems to be showing up in more of these projectors. As before, I'm looking for any suggestion I can try before incurring the cost to ship it back to BenQ for repair.

The vertical shift/overlap happens intermittently. The bootup sequence seems to work fine but when the split occurs, it happens just after the bootup finishes. On my first call to Benq support, they suggested I unplug the unit for 4 hrs or more. Each time the problem happens, so far unplugging it seems to get me a reprieve for a while before it happens again. [See screen shots].

Because I was getting the lamp warning box on bootup, I purchased a new lamp and installed it last Friday and then reset the lamp counter. It worked fine until Sunday night when I turned on the projector and right after completing the boot sequence, the split screen happened again -- i.e. a costly experiment but not a worn-out lamp issue.

On today's call to Benq, they suggested before I send it in for repair I first make sure my problem isn't with my receiver, through which all my sources are first connected. But the fact this same vertical shift has happened in other W5000 projectors says to me the problem in with the projector. Could there be a setting adjustment to fix this or is it a box it and ship to Benq for repair?

Hi chdude3. I'm still living with the threat of the vertical split screen every time I turn on my W5000 and I usually turn it on once a day. Since I last posted, the vertical split screen shift has only recurred twice. The last time it happened (a couple of weeks ago), I turned off the projector for about 5 minutes and, on turning it back on, the projection was OK. My thinking is that if the projection problem starts to appear more frequently, I'll look for a convenient day and drive it over from Ottawa to the Benq shop in Montreal for repair (for me, more economical than boxing and shipping). Meantime, it's annoying wondering each time I prepare to watch TV whether I'll have to pack things up and move to another room with a reliable (albeit smaller) TV.

Best of luck getting your problem fixed.

Wow, your problem looks just like mine, only 10 times worse -- although both make anything unwatchable! Mine also seemed to work after unplugging the projector overnight (I assume that's the power cycle treatment), although the last time I did try, and got it to work OK, by shutting the projector off for 5 minutes and then starting it up again. I am using a new lamp that I purchased, thinking that was my problem, even though I only had 1,322 normal hours on the bulb (converts to 1,983 total, or whisper, hours) -- a bit of a rip-off. Unlike your problem, mine seems to show up within seconds of the boot sequence having completed. So far, if I can get a minute of playtime OK, then there doesn't seem to be a threat of a failure during that viewing session. I'm still looking for an time when the split happens again and then I'll try hooking some input directly into the projector, bypassing my receiver (all inputs presently go through the receiver and have HDMI outputs to the projector) -- just to satisfy Benq repair that I've tried everything. I fear that I'll take the projector in for repair and they won't be able to reproduce the problem. Then all I've got are my photos of the vertical shift/split.

Best of luck getting your problem resolved. Be interested to know what the problem was if, and when, you get a repair.

By the way, I did get my new lamp from an outfit in CA, through eBay. Cost before crossing the border was only about $250.

I had that as well and at one moment the problem will not go away anymore.
Brought it to Benq service (I am in Guangzhou China now) and they replaced the optical chip for about 700 RMB (100 USD).
Mine was connected directly to the HTPC.

Just thought I'd post a bit on a tangent for the amusement of others:

Over the last year or so I've had several guests over, some staying for long periods of time. And they got to use the HT room and the PJ. Some liked to turn on/off the PJ by just reaching up, but as usual, did not always guess the power button correctly, and would hit random user mode buttons and who-knows-what-else. So I decided to make sure all my settings were where I liked them. How did I do that? I searched this thread for my previous posts, since I can't write anything down on paper and have that paper stay in existence for any length of time.

So now I'm back to a my settings from when I first got the PJ, the picture does indeed look better (as good as I remember, but memories fade or confuse themselves with dreams, and the bard J Mayer once wrote), and yet I have over 1000 hrs on the bulb now.

Still looking to supplement with a JVC RS40 or other competent PJ for 3D, though.

shinksma

The calibration was done using 2.2 gamma on the projector with different brightness, contrast, and color settings. I used the AVS MP4 test patterns, CalMan, and a ColorMunki Pro.

Service Menu - last menu to right (up down up down)
DLP - Lamp Wave Form Red Boost
ND2 Filter / Duct Tape (Ebay 30$ for set of ND2 ND4 and ND8) It appears to have a yellow tint
Screen Painted semi gloss (slight yellow tint, flatest least reflective (to my eyes) print on the sample cards.)
ISF Menu (up down up down left right)
Lamp normal
brightness 60
contrast 32
tint 0
iris 0
Color 26
sharpness 5
2.4 gamma
ND2 filter (yellow)
7.5 IRE
Desired x y Y
Red 640 329 779
Green 276 615 410
Blue 147 58 489
Cyan 195 320 412
Magenta 325 156 721
Yellow 424 497 681
White 312 329 652
Measured x y Y
Red 656 322 80
Blue 147 57 56
Measured White 274. 302 1000
Measured Green 311, 626 436

Service menu modified Warm (color temperature)
R gain 490
G gain 475
B gain 484
R bias 512
G bias 512
B bias 512
Sorry, forgot to mention these earlier.
service menu brightness/contrast (under DLP)
Brightness 0
Contrast 79
My projectors Custom Lamp Sync Delay and CW Index (don't touch touch these settings on yours unless you know what your doing.
CW Index Delay +212
Lamp Sync Delay 725
Color Wheel Multiplier 2.5X
Color Wheel Sequence .1
Brilliant color disable
Gamma Correction 2.4

Other:
Clarity Control
Detail Enhancement 0
Luma Transmission +2
Chroma Transmission +1
Bynamic Black on

Keystone 0, 1
Vertical Lens Shift, focus, and mount location.
Table top 2/3 to center (bottom)
Throw distance maximum
Focus Sharp edge pixels
Results on a High Power Screen

The results for the measurement on my wall had all three primaries in the bullseye including green, which actually looked better than these results. Warm up time is ten minutes for your basic gamma to get somewhat stable, then at least five hours for color, fourteen hours for best results with contrast. That is my observation, nothing technical. Mine has been running for five days.

Hi guys
I own a Benq W5000 for about a year .About 6 months ago the "split screen appeared for the first time .I only use Projector once or twice a week .Problem only occured now and than got worse but about 3 weeks ago it became really a pain fun was gone......I wrote to several different companies in Ireland and UK about quotes to get it fixed(asked for optical chip replacement) but they all insisted to send the projector in for inspection and as you all know it is big very heavy and fragile too.....so I could not decide what to do....But than I played around with the projector changing all the settings etc around for a while to see if it makes a difference.(Do not ask me WHY!)Afterwards I watched several movies ,sports for hours every time again and again even today watching golf for 5 hours -Problem is gone -3 weeks no split screen-gone from nearly every time I switched it on to never!!!!This is weird and I do not know how I did it .I dont change anything anymore in the settings (I thought I put them back the way I started anyway) for sure anymore.Too worried about going back.....Maybe just some strange coincidence....

This is the VISICO ND2 filter I'm using, but mine is 52mm. It attaches using duct tape.



Summary (part 2)

1. I did temp at the screen watching cyan and checking greyscale, including red luminosity.
2. I placed the filter on the projector and mesured at the projector adjusting gamma. I used this brightness/contrast setting for the next step.
3. I took off the filter and did blue only for measured and left alone green and red measured results from my greyscale checking results (step 1) at the screen.
4. I did measured red and green while checking secondaries (test pattern) and the RGB balance. I did not change blue measured.
5. I did luminosity while checking my results against blue, and yellow.
6. I did temperature and adjusted yellow desired only.
7. I put the ND2 filter on the projector and lowered saturation bellow 30 and contrast bellow 30. I raised brightness until I could see the 5% window clearly using my getgrey disk.
8. I did measured white and measured green x and y, but did not touch the Y values (set without a filter).
9. I raised the contrast and the saturation to where they were for luminosity.
10. I checked temperature looking at the windows and measuring, then did some adjustment for greyscale to the blue in custom warm temperture window.
11. I measured at the screen after setting brighness and contrast using a pluge pattern (results shown above).
12. I then switched from 2.2 gamma to 2.4 and adjusted brightness and contrast using the brightness contrast AVS test pattern, set saturation using a blue filter as a guide, and changed iris 1 to 0.
13. Last, I lowered red gain to match the temperature needed for blue to be correct.

If you were calibrating as I did you would not use the filter for blue gamut or luminosity not counting green and yellow (looking at cyan and blue in test patterns) x, y and green x, y, Y. The other adjustments were done using the ND2 filter.

At 100 hours I was getting some sync problems at the lower left of the screen. After my six days of running it, the left side vertical bars problem has appeared, so it's going to the service center as soon as I get the RMA # taken care of etc. The projector lamp hadn't had much run time, with more than half a dozen blu-rays unwatched and no Netflix movies. It's been over half a year now since I have viewed a new release (some I have bought). We have HD now on a 65" LED flat screen, but I have only sat through less than half hour watching television and watched one blu-ray on that so far but we had it since december. I will watch that eventually I keep saying.

My favorite movies have had their fair share of run time however this year... I hope that my desire to watch newer release movies (saw Rango this year, it was good) will start picking up again soon (none interest me), or with a new projector purchase.

The CMS settings are entered into the CMS that is located at the ISF menu and the warm temp is selected there. Do not use the CMS in the CMS area for the factory menu (last on the right). They woln't stay when you power down. In the CMS you change the temperature for warm to the custom settings. If you don't do this, the settings will not stick. User menu settings are entered into the ISF and are grey when you are in the ISF setting for the menu setting for picture when you don't need a password. The final bightness/contrast settings that I use are not done using the spectrometer. I recommend that you use a test pattern, and some material that you are familiar with to set these if you want to adjust them.

Has anyone here done the zoom mod on a W5000?
I'm wondering how it's done, and what difference it makes.

I'm looking to zoom out to a 100 x 240 cm picture when running 2.40 films.
Currently I can only get 83 x 195.
(Calculator is here.)

As an option, I could get a wide-angle converter lens.
Is anyone here is using one, how much was it, and is there any focus or brightness falloff?

Thanks in advance.

I've had my BenQ W5000 projector for a little over 2 years. About a month ago the lamp would shut off, then the projector shut itself down without me doing anything. As I looked at the projector, the LAMP light was on. It did this for some time so I replaced the lamp (had around 2000 hours on it).

After that it worked great, and the picture looked better to me. But last night as I was watching the tournament it did it again - 3 times. The lamp turned off, then the rest of the projector turned itself off.

My question is, is there anything that I can try to do to it to get it working properly, or do I need to send it into BenQ and let them work on it?

I was offered a refurb Benq W5000 for $1500 with a full warranty, the projector has about 15 hour on the bulb. I was also looking at the LG CF181D which is a LCOS PJ but that comes with a 2 year warranty. I know both PJ's has it flaws. Has anyone been able to compare these 2 projectos?

Mine did the same thing and it turned out to be a bad fan. From what I've heard, getting inside this PJ is no easy task, so I sent it to BenQ. Total cost (including shipping) was around $150.

$1500 for a refurb doesn't seem like that good a deal to me. Don't get me wrong, I love my W5000, but that model is getting a bit long in the tooth as far as projectors go. Keep in mind that the "full warranty" is only 1 year.
Bob

Has anyone made their own ceiling mount for their projector?

Need help calibrating the Benq w5000 color. I'm using DVE HD BASICS and I'm unable to get the blue to match while using the blue filter that was provided. The picture just looks too saturated.

Use the Red Green and Blue saturation ramps on the getgrey DVD. Do not use a blue filter. A blue filters purpose is too check for color decoder errors.

Getgrey calibration disk