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BenQ W 5000 little Test - Page 171

post #5101 of 5134
Quote:
Originally Posted by CAVX View Post

I don't think the chip itself is the issue because in the end of the day, both projectors produce the same size image at 1920 x 1080.

IMO, the 0.65'' chip is as good as the 0.95'' but its smaller size requires a better optical quality to preserve an accurate picture.

post #5102 of 5134
Quote:
Originally Posted by selac View Post

IMO, the 0.65'' chip is as good as the 0.95'' but its smaller size requires a better optical quality to preserve an accurate picture.


So it is a lens issue.
post #5103 of 5134
I recently replaced lamp. Old one was still working and was not too dim either but close to max. hours so I decided to change it.

New lamp certainly gives more brightness but I expected more. Before I changed lamp I measured lumens and got about 6,8 ftL and new one around 10ftL.

Has anyone noticed problems installing new lamp? It seem like lamp module will not go all the way in. Upper left part of the module has about 1/8" gap to edge of the lamp housing. I can get it flush by tightening the screws but I don't think it should be like that. Also before tightening the screw and tried to press it, it did go flush but popped back up when I let it go. I tried reinstalling it few times but no difference. I even tried old lamp module but it was the same. I think (I did not look so carefully) when I was removing the old lamp module and when I opened the screws it did pop out same way but like I said I'm not sure.

Regarding lamps I was happy to see that old one did not drift much and that new one did give right away almost the same results as the original one at lower hours when I calibrated it. I will take more measurements when new lamp ages and I will post my results soon.

My PS3 just died so it caused some new problems with further measurements. I think I found standalone that can output standard video levels so my calibration settings will work. Anyone here with PS3 and W5000 outputting YCbCr? Can you check is signal 4:4:4 or 4:2:2 that PS3 output? I cannot remember which it was by default and for obvious reasons cannot check it now.
post #5104 of 5134
Shouldn't PS3 be outputting 4:2:0 by default? But then again I haven't updated the firmware in my PS3 for almost 2 years!
post #5105 of 5134
Quote:
Originally Posted by maxleung View Post

Shouldn't PS3 be outputting 4:2:0 by default? But then again I haven't updated the firmware in my PS3 for almost 2 years!

No, because PS3 or any other player cannot output 4:2:0 from HDMI. All players output YCbCr either 4:2:2 or 4:4:4. Blu-ray's and DVD's are encoded in 4:2:0 but players always upconvert colorspace at least to 4:2:2.

What I'm trying to find out is which YCbCr colorspace PS3 output to W5000. PS3 does not let you manually select 4:2:2 or 4:4:4 colorspace, it will automatically select either one. It was so long time ago I last time was thinking about this but I have a faint memory that I somehow checked it because I'm under the impression that output for W5000 is 4:4:4.

I think W5000 support both 4:2:2 and 4:4:4. Also based on W5000 EDID here: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showp...8&postcount=12 it seems it has them both supported.

Now I only need to find out what way PS3 select which it will output.
Does it simply check EDID or does it also make selection based on displays deep color support and maybe select only 4:2:2 if display is not supporting deep color (W5000 does not support).

Also there is an AV-receiver in between the two devices and it can also make conversions either internally while still outputting what is inputted or even change output format. My receiver is Yamaha RX-V1800. As far as I understood from its technical documents my assumtion is it should not change output format and may not even do internal conversions.

Why I'm searching for answer what PS3 colorspace output is, is because I just got new blu-ray player (Panny DBT110 and with it you must select manually 4:2:2 or 4:4:4). Based on reviews this player output correctly both colorspaces but I'd like it to be exacly the same as it was from PS3.
Once I take new reading with Eyeone this should be solved (or maybe even found out that it does not make any difference in readings).
post #5106 of 5134
Quote:
Originally Posted by Big Lebowski View Post

No, because PS3 or any other player cannot output 4:2:0 from HDMI. All players output YCbCr either 4:2:2 or 4:4:4. Blu-ray's and DVD's are encoded in 4:2:0 but players always upconvert colorspace at least to 4:2:2.

Correct, HDMI cannot pass 4:2:0, so at least one conversion is present when playing BluRay (or DVD etc). Colour-space conversion is one of the most important reasons which for we find PQ differences, between players outputting digital signal.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Big Lebowski View Post

I think W5000 support both 4:2:2 and 4:4:4. Also based on W5000 EDID here: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showp...8&postcount=12 it seems it has them both supported.

Also correct; I've checked with my HTPC's ATI video card and W5000 does support both.
post #5107 of 5134
Quote:
Originally Posted by Max Headroom View Post

Also correct; I've checked with my HTPC's ATI video card and W5000 does support both.

Any idea which PS3 output to W5000?

Sounds logical that it would output 4:4:4 when it is supported by EDID but then again 4:2:2 should be 12-bit (instead of 4:4:4 8-bit without deep color)and in case display handles that signal well, it could be even better alternative. I have briefly tested 4:2:2 and 4:4:4 from BDT110 and I did not notice anything odd but I guess I need to test harder.
post #5108 of 5134
Sorry, I don't own a PS3, so I don't know much about it...

However, even if you managed to have DBT110 outputting the same color-space as PS3, that wouldn't necessarily mean that you'd still get exactly the same outcome: depending on the chip, upsampling algorithm and conversion chain used on each machine, you still might get somewhat different results.
post #5109 of 5134
Quote:
Originally Posted by jonnyozero3 View Post

Hey guys, I just received a new bulb for my W20000 (same PJ, pretty much) and it's working fine. I noticed some folks had a hard time finding bulbs marked 200/170w earlier in the thread, so I thought I'd post the place. I actually ordered from the benq-w20000 page, but the P/N is the same: 5J.05Q01.001.

http://www.projectorlampgenie.com/us/benq-w5000/

Prices are reasonable for a full housing. The sticker on the bulb I received said:

302/85 200/170W 1.0
316LC39A 1037010
6EJ1C03001

Looks like it matches the one direct from BenQ that Steve ordered awhile back:



It's in the PJ and working great.

Time to cal...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Big Lebowski View Post

I recently replaced lamp. Old one was still working and was not too dim either but close to max. hours so I decided to change it.

New lamp certainly gives more brightness but I expected more. Before I changed lamp I measured lumens and got about 6,8 ftL and new one around 10ftL.

Has anyone noticed problems installing new lamp? It seem like lamp module will not go all the way in. Upper left part of the module has about 1/8" gap to edge of the lamp housing. I can get it flush by tightening the screws but I don't think it should be like that. Also before tightening the screw and tried to press it, it did go flush but popped back up when I let it go. I tried reinstalling it few times but no difference. I even tried old lamp module but it was the same. I think (I did not look so carefully) when I was removing the old lamp module and when I opened the screws it did pop out same way but like I said I'm not sure.

Regarding lamps I was happy to see that old one did not drift much and that new one did give right away almost the same results as the original one at lower hours when I calibrated it. I will take more measurements when new lamp ages and I will post my results soon.

My PS3 just died so it caused some new problems with further measurements. I think I found standalone that can output standard video levels so my calibration settings will work. Anyone here with PS3 and W5000 outputting YCbCr? Can you check is signal 4:4:4 or 4:2:2 that PS3 output? I cannot remember which it was by default and for obvious reasons cannot check it now.


Was time for a new bulb here also. Picked one up from the link above, and it is as advertised. I had slightly over 2000 hours on the high lamp setting. I have a bat cave so really didn't notice a lack of brightness, though after putting in the new bulb, I had that additional "pop" for brightness back. I'm glad the old 5K keeps putting out a fine image, and am hoping it will keep doing so, until I can afford a 4k PJ down the road.
post #5110 of 5134
Quote:
Originally Posted by Max Headroom View Post

However, even if you managed to have DBT110 outputting the same color-space as PS3, that wouldn't necessarily mean that you'd still get exactly the same outcome: depending on the chip, upsampling algorithm and conversion chain used on each machine, you still might get somewhat different results.

Yes, I know there can be differencies but as far as I know BDT110 does not modify gamut and gray scale, so it should produce same results in test patterns. That's of course assuming PS3 didn't mess with the colors.
post #5111 of 5134
Quote:
Originally Posted by Blasst View Post

Was time for a new bulb here also. Picked one up from the link above, and it is as advertised. I had slightly over 2000 hours on the high lamp setting. I have a bat cave so really didn't notice a lack of brightness, though after putting in the new bulb, I had that additional "pop" for brightness back. I'm glad the old 5K keeps putting out a fine image, and am hoping it will keep doing so, until I can afford a 4k PJ down the road.

Did you notice any similar problems as I installing lamp? It is like it upper left corner does not go all the way in. Just like lamp housing has shrunk lenghtwise a bit. You need to look carefully to see this because you can just tighten the screws to make it go flush and it looks like it is in place OK, because front of the lamp has springs but I'm not sure is it suppose to be like that.

I'm also still very happy with the image this unit gives me.
post #5112 of 5134
Anyone have an issue where there is a slight outline around colors? For example, if there is a solid line on a white background, there is a slight halo to the left and right of it (but none at the top and bottom). I have the values in the clarity control set to 0, sharpness set to 3, and yet the halos are still there!

On my PC (RGB mode) this is a simulation of what it looks like, zoomed in:



The outline is ALWAYS two pixels to the left and right of a strong color. There is never anything on top or bottom.

I've tried all kinds of settings in the service menu (playing with color wheel index, sharpness settings, clarity controls) and I can't seem to get rid of it. It bothers the heck out of me, even though during movies it seems to be ok at my normal viewing distance.

Any idea why my W5000 is doing this? The effect is not seen on my other displays, so it isn't a display driver issue on my PC. I even tried different graphics cards.

Text looks really odd because of this - especially if the text is red or purple on a white background - makes it look fuzzy!
post #5113 of 5134
Quote:
Originally Posted by Big Lebowski View Post

Did you notice any similar problems as I installing lamp? It is like it upper left corner does not go all the way in. Just like lamp housing has shrunk lenghtwise a bit. You need to look carefully to see this because you can just tighten the screws to make it go flush and it looks like it is in place OK, because front of the lamp has springs but I'm not sure is it suppose to be like that.

I'm also still very happy with the image this unit gives me.

No I didn't BL. Mine went in right into place, and I only had to slightly move the lamp assembly left/up to get the screws to line up exactly while screwing them in. That is strange that your unit is doing that.

You bought the factory lamp assembly correct?
post #5114 of 5134
Quote:
Originally Posted by Blasst View Post

No I didn't BL. Mine went in right into place, and I only had to slightly move the lamp assembly left/up to get the screws to line up exactly while screwing them in. That is strange that your unit is doing that.

But you also had to move lamp module left/up. Mine had the same but there was also small gap between the lamp module and the lamp housing that I was able to close by tightening the screw.

Quote:


You bought the factory lamp assembly correct?

Yes and I even tried installing the original lamp module but they both had the same problem. It is weird just like the lamp housing has shrunk lenghtwise a bit. The lamp module has bulb part attached to lamp module by springs for some reason.

Picture seems fine but it is slightly brighter on right side with lower left corner darkest but I think it was like that always. Maybe it just now shows up better with the new lamp. I noticed that Benq boot up screen is darker with the new lamp but it gets quite fast brighter after that and it is then brighter than the original lamp.
post #5115 of 5134
Quote:
Originally Posted by maxleung View Post

Anyone have an issue where there is a slight outline around colors? For example, if there is a solid line on a white background, there is a slight halo to the left and right of it (but none at the top and bottom). I have the values in the clarity control set to 0, sharpness set to 3, and yet the halos are still there!

On my PC (RGB mode) this is a simulation of what it looks like, zoomed in:



The outline is ALWAYS two pixels to the left and right of a strong color. There is never anything on top or bottom.

I've tried all kinds of settings in the service menu (playing with color wheel index, sharpness settings, clarity controls) and I can't seem to get rid of it. It bothers the heck out of me, even though during movies it seems to be ok at my normal viewing distance.

Any idea why my W5000 is doing this? The effect is not seen on my other displays, so it isn't a display driver issue on my PC. I even tried different graphics cards.

Text looks really odd because of this - especially if the text is red or purple on a white background - makes it look fuzzy!

I think I've seen similar thing with my unit. If I recall corrently sharpness setting at 6 made it little better but there was slight halo always. I need to recheck since it was years ago and I recall it required certain test pattern to even show up and I think it was only with RGB signal. Have you tried YCbCr?
post #5116 of 5134
big L: I have tried YCbCr (4:4:4) output from my HTPC. Same issue. Oh well. Interesting that you discovered it as well. At least it seems invisible if the background is black!
post #5117 of 5134
Since it appears in RGB and 4:4:4 YCbCr modes, it shouldn't be a chroma-compression artefact; unless of course some weird conversion-chain is taking place inside W5000's video processor.

As Big L. already said, sharpness filters affect image in similar ways. I read you tried sharpness and clarity controls; have you tried setting "Chroma transmission" to 0 as well (it's set to 1 by default) or just "Luma"? I remember "Chroma transmission" messing quite badly with chroma alignment.

Finally, I wonder whether this might have something to do with DMD-dithering; does it look the same at 4X and 5X wheel-speeds?
post #5118 of 5134
I set all the controls to zero in the same menu with the clarity controls. I also tried different wheel speeds (2x, 2.5x, from the menu). I guess I'll live with it until the time comes when the pj needs to be replaced!
post #5119 of 5134
Quote:
Originally Posted by maxleung View Post

Interesting that you discovered it as well. At least it seems invisible if the background is black!

Correct, it will never show on black background. This is not a rare "feature". If I remember correctly my old HD80 did the same thing. Who knows how many different projector models do this. I think most peoples never even noticed this because you need to have certain kind test pattern and look closely. I remember that sharpness setting had some effect on this but it never went away. It is like these units don't have neutral sharpness setting.

Good thing is that this problem does not seem to have any ill effect on actual picture from normal viewing distance. This projector is one of the most sharpest projectors ever made and its detail level is astonishing. Not many 1080p DLP units can delivers same detail level. There was noticeable difference between my old HD80 and W5000 when I compared them even both are 1080p units.
post #5120 of 5134
Ok, thanks for checking!
post #5121 of 5134
Here's an interesting article on PJ image sharpness; apparently there's more than just lens issues.
post #5122 of 5134
Quote:
Originally Posted by Max Headroom View Post

Here's an interesting article on PJ image sharpness; apparently there's more than just lens issues.

Well, they are referring to the DC3 version of the DMD, but the BenQ projectors only use the DC2 version, as far as I know. Not sure how that relates to sharpness between the two versions though.

Just got an order in for the B stock of the RS40, just too good of a deal to pass up. I almost jumped on the W7000 at Amazon for $1950, just not ready for the added expense of 3D just yet so thought the RS40 would provide a better 2D experience. Hopefully, I'm not going to miss the DLP image as that is all I've ever had, IN72, Optoma 720P (forgot the model number) and then the W5000 (which will be for sale soon, have ~1800 hours on one lamp and ~400 on the replacement).

Been a great unit for the most part, very happy and still throws a great image (of course, I'm comparing it only to the IN72 480P and Optoma), excited about the JVC.
post #5123 of 5134
Well, my w5000 was intermittently having the half screen mirroring issue until a couple weeks ago... The only reason I never sent it in for service was due to how intermittent the problem was... didn't want to pay for shipping both ways and a service charge to check it out for them not to see the problem... Well a couple weeks ago the right half of the screen instead of doing the mirroring error that I could just power cycle the projector to fix (normal cool down cycle)… it started just showing white garbage on the right side of the screen... it was consistent and always happened every time... So I called, got my RMA shipped it off to California for an estimate... I was thinking for some reason it was going to be around $500 or so... ended up with a quote for $160 for the repair and $40 shipping back... I am really hoping that this repair is solid and I can get another year or two out of it... (really hoping for a bulb-less type of projector to come out and down to my price range )

ITEM:
Labor (Repair components on the DMD Chip Board)

PART NUMBER:
A1.3LP6R.001
post #5124 of 5134
Thanks for reporting your experience, gearm.
post #5125 of 5134
Was using the projector a few weeks ago and decided to switch off and ever since then it won't come back on, no sign of life or LED lights coming on. Just seems totally dead.

Anyone else had this problem?

Contacted BenQ and they are going to look at it for me. Hopefully it won't cost too much to repair.
post #5126 of 5134
Quote:
Originally Posted by Big Lebowski View Post

Here are my latest CCA tweaks for BC on.

This time I took an unorthodox way.


ISF CCA (Warm C/T as starting point)

Desired x y Y

Red 640 330 1230

Green 300 600 460

Blue 148 60 475

Cyan 185 319 475

Magenta 346 170 1235

Yellow 423 489 960

White 322 307 1000


Measured x y Y

Red 657 318 80

Green 324 621 436

Blue 150 67 56

White 277 335 1000

BC1 / 2 0 0 0

(measured values are actually from BC off measurement but they are most different in White value so I did not bother changing that)


These settings are just a little bit modified (some secondary color drift corrected) from BC off CCA calibration but they produce nearly double the lumens in BC on mode (BC off=6.4ftL, BC on=11.8ftL).

So this time I only match x and y and I left Y deliberately where it was in BC off mode (REC.709 measured Y is within 1% in BC off, but greatly too low in BC on mode but quite steadily for all colors).

Anyway this seemed to produce very pleasing image with real material. I compared some demanding scenes where before face tones got weird they were now OK. I also compared real world images in BC off and BC on modes where BC off was fully within standards and BC on was otherwise within standards but RGBCMY too low Y. There was very little difference in colors, hardly noticeable but brightness was adequate in BC on mode.


Obviously CCA is a can of worms and even you see everything is within standards with test patterns there can be some problems. I think this is because you do calibration to match 75% or 100% colors but obviously CCA does not work predictable way with all saturation and brightness levels, so you would actually need to measure all possible patterns and try to choose what matches the best. There seem to be similar discussion about new JVC's CMS where similar drift occurs.


Well I try to keep these settings and see few movies and compare how it looks. At least quick test showed that now there was no noticeable drifts in colors with material where face colors are already bit weird looking occasionally.
I'm bringing up this post after quite a lot of time. I used the settings Big L. lists here on my W5000 and I got a rather unpleasant picture: way too warm and had a gamma plunge @80%-90% (2.4@70% -> 2.35@80% -> 2.3@90% -> 2.4@100%).

But that's just half the story: when I left the settings aside and tried Big L.'s method, I got a very pleasing, bright, contrasty, yet not colour-unbalanced picture (no plastic-looking skin tones, for example). What I did was, just as Big L. suggests, set x,y for all colours (most precisely and importantly for secondaries) where they're supposed to be in REC.709; afterwards I adjusted their Y's, so that all colours where lacking the amount of luminance, that gave them deltaL=5 in Calman.
These are quite recent findings to me; I didn't have the time to check grayscale, to look for eg gamma plunge @high stimulus levels (will do tonight), but so far the image is the most impressive I've seen from the W5000 -although not the smoothest: good quality material shows only sporadic signs of digital noise; poor quality (eg a 720p HDTV download I checked too) looks rather ugly, with tons of dithering noise (could be spotted with BC off too, but was way lower). I remember I had tried the various BC looks -that can be found inside Factory menu, but won't store btw- and one was addressing this problem very well, but haven't looked at it since. Maybe now it's the time.

I believe there's huge hidden value in W5000's Brilliant Colours feature, so I really think it's worth working on it!
post #5127 of 5134
I’ve been working on my W5000 for the last few days, trying various approaches to calibration and finally reached a conclusion on what produces the best picture for me. It may work for you too, so I thought I’d share it.
Equipment used for or the purpose, was an i1 pro, software was Calman 4 and source was a WDTV Live, outputting 1080/24p YCbCr 4:4:4 through HDMI. AVS forum and Spears & Munsil patterns were used.

I tried both Whisper/Normal lamp and Brilliant Colours On/Off settings and found Normal lamp, BC off gives the overall best picture on my 100”, 1,3 gain, Stewart Studiotek ST130 screen.

I went through various workflows to find what works best and I ended up with the following:

1) First of all, I went through adjusting the basic parameters: I picked 7,5 IRE for video levels, and deactivated Dynamic Black (as calibration is almost impossible with that on), to reactivate it again when everything finished. I also deactivated Brilliant colours, set Overscan to 0, lamp to Normal, Luma and Chroma transmission to 0 (Luma can be set to 1 btw, when projected material is too soft).

2) Afterwards, I entered ISF menu and adjusted Brightness and Contrast. I ended up with B=58 and C=44, which produced a usable video range of 17-244. I left Colour/Tint at 50/0 for the moment, and set Sharpness=6 and CT=Normal. I also set gamma to 2,4, as I have a dedicated room with good light and reflections control.

3) Then, I entered Factory menu, deactivated CCA and measured CCA off values with Normal CT. I chose Normal because I didn’t want to ruin another set of Warm CT Biases/Gains I had created, to use with lamp at Whisper; so you may as well start with Warm -or anything else, as a matter of fact. The colourspace my W5000 can produce, is shown bellow:

CCAoffmeasuredNormal.jpg

This is important, not only because it provides the necessary values to enter into the respective CCA fields (which is the next thing to do), but also defines the boundaries within which we can move x,y during calibration; moving outside them, would cause disturbing side-effects, like distorted low-saturation points. So, looking at my data, we can tell right away that Blue’s y is a little off on this W5000, in an unfixable way: we can only shrink, not expand colourspace. As we’ll see later, there will be some post calibration deltaH and deltaC errors for Blue; not too grave though –and besides Blue is the colour with the least perceptible errors to the human eye, so not a real problem here.
The actual CCA off x,y values I came with (as an average of three measuring runs), is this:

W R G B
x 293 657 304 145
y 321 319 620 63

4) After entering the Measured values (just x,y -left Y at default values of 1000, 80, 436, 56), I started tweaking gamut through the Desired CCA values, so that all colours had correct x,y, leaving Y CCA values at their default, for the moment. When I finished that, I looked at the colours luminances and at their deltaL errors. The one that had the largest deltaL and a negative luminance value at the same time (meaning it’s the weakest of all), was Red.
So, next step was to go and adjust Colour, so that Red’s relative luminance increased and moved just a little on the positive side of the chart (meaning that Red’s deltaL minimized too). The reason behind this, is that we can’t surpass the point to which one colour clips, so the only option is to lower the stronger colours, to match the weakest one -not vice versa. The correct setting was Colour=54.

5) Afterwards, I started tweaking Y for all six colours, until they matched White and had their deltaL minimized too. A second run followed, with special attention to minimize deltaL for primaries (RGB) and deltaH for secondaries (CMY), as these are the most important factors to each colour-category. I left deltaC were they may be. The final values are:

R G B C M Y W
x 633 295 149 218 305 414 301
y 333 603 64 307 149 506 315
Y_ 985 665 570 671 1019 973 1000

and the produced gamut is this:

Gamut-NormallampNormaltemp.jpg

6) Grayscale was next. I entered Factory menu and used RGB gain/bias to fix Normal CT RGB and overall balance at 30% and 80% levels respectively. That produced a smooth RGB and overall gamma of 2,4 (except for a fairly small hiccup at 50%) and 6500 K colour-temperature across the range. The values are:

CT Normal modified Gain/Bias 511 511 514 / 502 502 493

and here are the diagrams:

Grayscale-NormallampNormaltemp.jpg

(I rechecked gamut and grayscale, as changes to one affect the other, with the minor tweaks needed to smooth everything out, already been updated in the two tables above.)

7) Finally, I set manual Iris at 2 (I had it at 19 while calibrating, for more accurate readings), reactivated Dynamic Black and started watching some of my reference videos.
What I saw, was the most pleasing picture I’ve seen so far from my W5000: sharp yet artifact-free, colour-balanced, gamma-correct, contrasty, punchy and bright enough for my application (12,15 fL with iris at 2), truly inky blacks and great shadow detail. So, it was time and effort well spent!


In time I’ll try to further refine the BC feature, as I think there’s great potential in that too; potential that can be used with ambient light or very large screens, as it outputs about 50% more white light than BC off does. Any ideas and suggestions on that, are welcome!

I’d like to seize the opportunity and thank all the people here, who share their knowledge and experience on the W5000 -some more so- and keep this thread alive throughout all these years. Kudos guys!
Edited by Max Headroom - 8/31/12 at 7:55am
post #5128 of 5134
I also checked low saturation points, using good-old HCFR software, as Calman doesn't support low saturation diagrams yet. Here are the readings:



They look very good too, with all deltaE's kept bellow 2.
Edited by Max Headroom - 9/4/12 at 8:18am
post #5129 of 5134
Hey Max thanks for posting.
I am going to maybe give those settings a shot.

I would like to send a hello to everyone of my W5000 brothers. Mine is since 2009 and I haven't had to replace the bulb yet. I came on here to just check on things and to see if it could be unhealthy to run it with the bulb hours being : 354 Normal, 1786 Whisper. 2317 Total.
Otherwise I will just run this bulb for some time until I feel it is rather dull....as I can see from some posts that others report not too much of a brightness gain after replacing....so if no need then hey no need.

Max I tried your setting but its possible my firmware is not the latest and greatest and I cannot find CCA adjustment.....im not sure I trust sending to factory for that small item on a machine that has offered zero problems and great picture imo the best bet is to not send it and continue.

Anyone know if the firmware can be done at home...i will do some more searching.....thanks and toast to a great buy and bargain...i paid like 1300 for my refurb unit.

Is it true the later firmware is responsible for noise? yikes....
post #5130 of 5134
Hello to you, too!
BenQ W5000/20000 seem to have a really long-lasting bulb, indeed.

You'll find CCA adjustments inside the ISF menu. Password to enter that, is Up, Down, Up, Down, Left, Right (using the arrow-keys on the remote). Write down your original values before changing any of them, as changes won't be restored even after Reset.
You'll have to enter Factory menu to adjust Colour temperature. You do that by going to the right-most tab in the menu (where you can see your f/w version btw; latest one is 2.01 and there are no noise issues with that, as long as you have BC off) and pressing Up and Down arrows consecutively a couple times. Better don't mess with settings other than Colour temperature here, or bad things may happen. tongue.gif
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