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Ballast Repair Kit for Panasonic PT-50LC13 - Page 2

post #31 of 301
Jerry -

I also am confused about the bulb situation. There appears to be three manufacturers of the bulb: Phillips, OSRAM, and LTI. Which one is the actual OEM replacement for Panasonic is anyone's guess.

Here are a few statements pulled from the internet:

Quote:


From some time ago we notice that some lamp distributors started selling generic projector lamps for some of the most reputable brands of TV and projectors of the market, we conducted a testing to know how good these aftermarket lamps were. Our results were a total disappointment. Most generic lamps failed after a few hundred hours in the best case. In others cases the color quality is not like the original, but in almost all cases the life of those lamps is significantly less than the original.

Our testing confirmed what we hear from customer who bought generic lamps. ALL generic lamps failed before 800 hours of use.

Another problem of generic lamps is the risk of damage to your unit. Although, we didn't experience damage units, these generic lamps have the potential to damage a projector beyond OEMs warranty and there is a risk of explosion or fire.

How do you know if your lamp is generic or OEM (Original Equipment Manufacturer) ?

This is one of the most difficult task because generic brand are almost physically identical to OEM lamps but most OEM factories use a specific barcode and bulb from the top lamp manufactures like Philips, Osram or Ushio, Buy your lamp from a reputable source and ask for OEM before buy it. If the price if significantly less than OEM, then probably it will be a counterfeit or generic lamp.

Our recommendation is always to use OEM. Take special care with Ebay sellers and online discount stores because a high number of them are selling generic replacement lamps, without telling it to you, to raise the profit.

Quote:


This is a brand new in the box lamp Manufactured by Osram. The same lamp that is in your PANASONIC right now.

Quote:


# Brand New Original LTI Part
# Lighting Technologies International (LTI) is the industry leader in the design, development, and manufacturing of projection lamps. LTI's lamps are specifically designed for optimal effectiveness bringing longer life and enhanced stability. Enjoying unparalleled performance at markdown is the LTI way. LTI, leading the way in lighting technologies for projectors and projection TVs. LTI is proud to be a part of Philips!
# This is the equivalent alternative for Panasonic part number TYLA1000

Quote:


As of March 2008, Phillips has acquired LTI (Lighting Technologies International) and many sellers have begun selling LTI lamps but actually telling customers that the lamp is made by Phillips when in fact the lamp is not. LTI is an after-market maker and not the original maker for the following manufacturers of TV’s (See Below).

OSRAM/SYLVANIA is the OEM manufacturer for all RPTV/DLP lamps. Phillips is the inventor of the UHP lamp but PHILLIPS DOES NOT SELL TO END USERS, NOR DOES PHILLIPS ALLOW RESELLERS TO SELL BARE LAMPS TO END USERS. So please beware of this scam, someone will sell you a Phillips lamp but Phillips will not warranty it. OSRAM is the only OEM maker that allows CERTIFIED resellers to sell bare lamps to end users, OSRAM is required by the Federal Government to sell all lamps through Sylvania in the US.

Quote:


If you have an OSRAM lamp in your TV we highly recommend replacing that lamp with a Philips. It’s no secret Philips is the innovator of Ultra High Pressure (UHP) Mercury Lamps (created in 1995). The quality and dependability of Philips lamps are much greater than OSRAM, or any of the generic brands out there (LTI, APO, etc.. The combination of better “burners” and more advanced drivers (the ballasts) are a few reasons why Philips lamps outlast the competition.

Very confusing, to say the least.

The bulb I got says "Phillips" and "Made in China". I am now assuming it is a LTI product. Although it seems to be working now with the ballast repair kit, it may quit at any time.

But, I don't think I am willing to buy directly from Panasonic at $300.

In short, it could be the bulb, or the ballast/power supply that is killing the bulb. I didn't replace the transistors in my ballast also; I wonder if that could be the problem?

Please let us know what your solution is. Thanks!
post #32 of 301
Tom, that's good info, thanks. Can you tell me where that first quote, about conducting tests of aftermarket bulbs, came from? Actually, I can probably just google it. If that's true, that would be evidence that it's the bulb rather than the set that caused the failure.

Maybe I'll have to bite the bullet and put another $300 for a real bulb into this sucky Panasonic. It's either that or spend $1800 on a Samsung 550 LCD set, which is what I'd replace it with. It's a tough choice.
post #33 of 301
I've had the some problem and 3 replacement bulbs - none of the "bad" bulbs looked bad to me and one was placed back into the unit and worked fine after a warrenty call. I once again find myself experencing the flashing lights described in this forum. After finding this forum I unplugged the thermal fuse and turned the unit on. The lamp fired up then turned off - no surprise here. I plugged the fuse back in and the unit works fine. This leads me to believe that the problem may be the fuse or connection. Can anyone shed light on this? Also, I can't see how to get the fuse out - it's a small rectangular board with a clip on the far edge. The problem is that the sides won't pop up - any info is greatly appreciated!
post #34 of 301
Saga continued:

I ended up calling bluestar-online to try to get a second replacement for the bulb, but the phone support guy (who seemed rather knowledgeable and who was happy to take a bit of time to talk to me) seemed to hold a strong belief that when a bulb burns out twice in that short a time, it's not the bulb, it's the tv. He recounted the testing these bulbs go through and knew about Panny problems and ballasts and resetting the bulb life counters and such. In any case, he told me the warranty they have on the bulb only covers one replacement, and they wouldn't give me a third one. However, he did say to call him back if I was able to find a bulb that did work ok in the set and they'd work with me if that happened.

So this guy could have been feeding me a line, it's in their interest of course not to supply me with endless bulbs, but he sounded earnest, so who knows. In any case, I still don't want to spend $600 or more on a repair job that may not be warranted. So I decided to buy a factory original full bulb enclosure from dlp-lamps. $250, but it comes with a Panasonic 1 year warranty. If that ones burns out is a short time too, I'll have to assume it's the set. But if that happens, I can get a warranty replacement, sell it on ebay or something, so at least I won't be out the $250, and then buy a new tv that doesn't suck.

Tommyg33 - sorry, can't help you with the fuse. Wait, maybe I can -- I downloaded a repair manual back when I was fooling with the ballast. It's on a different computer though. Stay tuned -- tomorrow I'll see if it covers the thermal fuse.
post #35 of 301
Tommyg33 - Interesting post!

I shorted out the Temperature Fuse, which didn't solve my problem. But I didn't check out the Lamp Thermistor CBA, which contains the temperature sensor. I will try the steps you did, and see if that affects anything.
post #36 of 301
Tommyg33:

Sorry, I looked through the service manual and it didn't say anything about disconnecting the thermal fuse from the projector assembly. In the disassembly order, it mentions the thermal fuse after both the ballast and the projector assembly have been removed from the set. It specifically says not to remove it in the ballast removal procedure, but it doesn't go into their thinking.
post #37 of 301
I have the PT-50LC13 and am having what I believe is a ballast issue. I ordered a ballast repair kit, and attempted to install it. The only thing is that after installing all components except the transistor (because I didn't know which one of the 4 to replace), the tv still does not work. Does anyone know if the polarity of D1301 could be an issue? If so, can anyone inform me on the correct orientation of this part as I failed to note it before removing the old part.

I also just replaced the lamp just to make sure that wasn't the problem. And, the tv's current symptoms are that on startup, the ballast sporadically clicks and you can see flashes from the bulb through the back of the tv (with the back panel removed), but the screen does not illuminate. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks.

-Brian
post #38 of 301
Quote:
Originally Posted by ODing View Post

Does anyone know if the polarity of D1301 could be an issue? If so, can anyone inform me on the correct orientation of this part as I failed to note it before removing the old part.

Brian, the orientation of diode D1301 is very important. The purpose of a diode is to allow current in only one direction.

I do not have the PT-50LC13 (just the PT-40LC12), and I couldn't tell from brogers' circuit board pic, but I think the orientation of that diode should have that line (cathode) pointing towards the circuit that has the 3 surface mount resistors in a row.

Best to check with someone who actually has the PT-50LC13, though.
post #39 of 301
Thanks tomwil... That is how I had the diode oriented. I went ahead and attempted to turn on the tv again today... and Eureka! The tv came on (after 2 or three tries of the ballast clicking away). I was ecstatic.

However, the fix there was only temporary as when I came back a few hours later, while the tv was turned off, it was back to the same error. (The LAMP LED lights up once every 5 seconds.)

I think my next step is to try and measure some voltages to see if I can determine where the problem is originating from. I just have to get a hold of the service manual. Any suggestions as to where I should start? Should I attempt to acquire and replace all 4 transistors on the ballast?
post #40 of 301
Mine is also sometimes hard to start. I had also replaced all the components supplied in the repair kit, except the transistor.

I will probably try replacing the transistors next. Order another 4 transistors @ $5 ea, and replace the whole set.

The only thing different between us is that I do not get the Lamp LED warning blink.
post #41 of 301
I hope someone that has done this is still reading here... D1301, part MA2Q73600L per the pictures might very well have been the part that stopped my ballast as it appears melted on top and I can not see the markings. The new part has a mark on it like a diode but the circuit board does not appear to have the orientation noted on it. I see this was mentioned for a different model Panasonic, but wanted to see if anyone else can confirm this. Two other quick questions: 1) Technique for soldering a surface mount diode 2) I did not see the transistors on Panasonics parts list (B1DEGQ000044) - anyone know another source or a replacement equivalent? Thanks.
post #42 of 301
Quote:
Originally Posted by krh View Post

D1301, part MA2Q73600L per the pictures might very well have been the part that stopped my ballast as it appears melted on top and I can not see the markings. The new part has a mark on it like a diode but the circuit board does not appear to have the orientation noted on it.

I think Panasonic puts an epoxy coating on that diode, which obscures the markings. If you look at the other surface-mount diodes, they appear to have the same coating. I took a sharp object and very gently scrapped away that coating to reveal the markings and verified the orientation before removing the diode. When you remove that diode, you will see the circuit board diode diagram showing the correct orientation, that is underneath the diode.
post #43 of 301
Quote:
Originally Posted by krh View Post

1) Technique for soldering a surface mount diode

There is a guide here.

Quote:
Originally Posted by krh View Post

2) I did not see the transistors on Panasonics parts list (B1DEGQ000044) - anyone know another source or a replacement equivalent?

If you go to Panasonic's Parts and Accessories' website, and enter B1DEGQ000044 in the "Search by Part #", you will see that transistor available for around $5.
post #44 of 301
I'm trying to repair my PT-45LC12 using LSUC0022 (Ballast Service Kit)
Anyone know which component to replace for PT-45LC12 using ballast service kit?
I kind of guess, is this the right one?
PT-45LC12
1. D1315 --> D1317?
2. R1305 --> R1703
3. D1301 --> ????
4. F1301 --> F1701
5. Q1306 --> ??
6 C1330 -->
post #45 of 301
Quote:
Originally Posted by 540iz4 View Post

I'm trying to repair my PT-45LC12 using LSUC0022 (Ballast Service Kit)
Anyone know which component to replace for PT-45LC12 using ballast service kit?
I kind of guess, is this the right one?
PT-45LC12
1. D1315 --> D1317?
2. R1305 --> R1703
3. D1301 --> ????
4. F1301 --> F1701
5. Q1306 --> ??
6 C1330 -->

You got some of it. Here's the rest:

PT-50LC13 --> PT-45LC12

1. D1315 --> D1317
2. R1305 --> R1703
3. D1301 --> D1701
4. F1301 --> F1701
5. Q1306 --> Q1302-Q1306
6. C1330 --> C1314
post #46 of 301
I replace all the component except the transistor because not sure which one to replace and I measure the transistor all of them have same measurement.

After I put it back and tried it, I got green light blinking and no clicking noise.

I verified that all the component have proper connection.

Any idea what I did wrong or should I replace one of the transistor?
post #47 of 301
JerryR - Thanks for checking. My behavior remains constant - every time the unit fires up wiht the red blinking light I:

1. unplug the power
2. remove the fuse connection
3. restore the power & turn the unit on (sometimes repoeat this step twice)
4. the unit powers on then shuts itself od as the fuse is not connected
5. unplug the power
6. restore the fuse connection
7. power the unit on - I have not found this to fail and the unit works fine until I turn it off. Sometimes it will turn on otherwise I go back to step one.

Does anyone have any idea whether a fuse replacement may correct the problem?

Needless to say this is beyond annoying and Samsung is looking like a viable option at this point!

Thanks....
Quote:
Originally Posted by JerryR View Post

Tommyg33:

Sorry, I looked through the service manual and it didn't say anything about disconnecting the thermal fuse from the projector assembly. In the disassembly order, it mentions the thermal fuse after both the ballast and the projector assembly have been removed from the set. It specifically says not to remove it in the ballast removal procedure, but it doesn't go into their thinking.
post #48 of 301
Quote:
Originally Posted by tomwil View Post

You got some of it. Here's the rest:

PT-50LC13 --> PT-45LC12

1. D1315 --> D1317
2. R1305 --> R1703
3. D1301 --> D1701
4. F1301 --> F1701
5. Q1306 --> Q1302-Q1306
6. C1330 --> C1314

hey, im the one who messaged you before the weekend, and thanks for the slot numbers for the components. That really helped, but is there a way to tell if anything is burned out without using a multimeter? i don't currently have one and i DONT want to be turning on 25000 volts just to check something. I'd rather live. I guess i'll just have to solder the components into those sockets when they come and then see if the tv works again
post #49 of 301
My Panasonic PT-52LCX65 stopped working last night. Blinking green power led for about 90 secs (I think that I hear a rattle like sound which I'm assuming is the ballast trying to fire up the lamp while green led is flashing) , followed by blinking red led for about a min, accompanied by the lamp led every five seconds (continues until I unplug the power cord).
The lamp actually looks ok to me but I'm probably wrong as I have had the TV for 3 years and haven't had to replace the lamp yet. I'm concerned though by the ballast issues. I'm hoping that the problem is isolated to the lamp but in the case that it isn't so, can anyone tell me if the same part no. (LSUC0022) applies to my TV too. Any help on this issue would be greatly appreciated.
Nirmalya
post #50 of 301
Quote:
Originally Posted by nhazra View Post

My Panasonic PT-52LCX65 stopped working last night. I'm hoping that the problem is isolated to the lamp but in the case that it isn't so, can anyone tell me if the same part no. (LSUC0022) applies to my TV too. Any help on this issue would be greatly appreciated. Nirmalya

Probably your lamp needs replacing. There is really no way to tell if a lamp is bad by looking at it, unless it has exploded.

The service manual only lists the ballast as a complete unit (LSEB3163A), and not by its individual components. At the Panasonic Parts website, it shows that the LSUC0022 (version LSQL1865-1) components are used on your set. If you remove the ballast board, you might be able to determine where the LSUC0022 components are used on the board.
post #51 of 301
I'm electronically challenged and could use some good advice.

Last night my four-year-old PT50LC13 TV gave off a loud "pop" and went black. When I removed the lamp housing, the bulb had a lot of small loose crystals in it. I guess this means it "exploded"?? I've ordered a replacement lamp/housing and I should be able to handle the re-installation, but can I expect to have problems with the ballast or other components, as well? If so, are there still TV repair shops around (my original dealer, Tweeter, is no longer in the area)?
post #52 of 301
i recently aquired a Panasonic 45lc12 from the in-laws, who said the bulbs kept poping, so they stopped using it. i bought a new bulb, $150 overnighted from discount-merchant.com it was a philips bulb. poped that in, and turned it on... still has the constantly green blinking light... i left it sit like that for an hour or so, thinking it might sporatically turn on like an above poster said it did, but it didnt. my question is, am i wasting my time and money with this tv? i cant find a ballast kit for this specific model anywhere, will the 50lc13 ballast kit work? also, i have the back off the TV, i can see where the ballast is (under the bulb cage housing), but it seems like i have to pretty much take the whole flippin thing apart to get to it. the next step i wanted to take is to see if the door switches ( the one that senses if the door to the bulb is off or not ). also, the filter has a little peg like the bulb door that goes into a hole, but there isnt a switch there, just a circuit board. is there supposed to be a proximity switch there too?
i am fairly proficient in any electrical tasks, so once the board is out, soldering the new parts in is a cinche to me, i just dont want to take the whole entire set apart to get at the ballast when common sense should inform any idiot designing a tv to put items subject to early death as easily accessible as possible (4 screws for a bulb anyone?)
post #53 of 301
Quote:
Originally Posted by toshima View Post

i recently aquired a Panasonic 45lc12 ... i cant find a ballast kit for this specific model anywhere, will the 50lc13 ballast kit work?

If you care to read the above threads, you will see that the LSUC0022 ballast repair kit can be used on your PT-45LC12.

The ballast is buried within your set, and will take some disassembly to get it out. Instructions here.

Quote:
Originally Posted by toshima View Post

still has the constantly green blinking light

Continuous green light diagnosis here.

Quote:
Originally Posted by toshima View Post

also, the filter has a little peg like the bulb door that goes into a hole, but there isnt a switch there, just a circuit board. is there supposed to be a proximity switch there too?

No, there is no switch there. That circuit board is used as a temperature sensor to detect if the fan fails or the filter gets clogged.
post #54 of 301
TOMWIL,

If you have the patience to repost your earlier instructions, I would greatly appreciate it fore I have the same problem and from all I read you seem to be the man!

Thank you,
Gary



Quote:
Originally Posted by tomwil View Post

This is so disheartening. Last week I had posted instructions on how to use the Panasonic ballast repair kit #LSUC0022 to repair the Panasonic PT-40LC12 and PT-45LC12 TVs. The AVS Forum crash of 8/11/08 erased all of that.

It will probably be awhile before I attempt to repost those instructions again. I want to be very sure the AVS Forum upgrade of 8/2/08 is really stable.

Thanks again, brogers, for helping me repair my TV and saving me the cost of a new flatscreen!
post #55 of 301
Quote:
Originally Posted by nhazra View Post

My Panasonic PT-52LCX65 stopped working last night. Blinking green power led for about 90 secs (I think that I hear a rattle like sound which I'm assuming is the ballast trying to fire up the lamp while green led is flashing) , followed by blinking red led for about a min, accompanied by the lamp led every five seconds (continues until I unplug the power cord).
The lamp actually looks ok to me but I'm probably wrong as I have had the TV for 3 years and haven't had to replace the lamp yet. I'm concerned though by the ballast issues. I'm hoping that the problem is isolated to the lamp but in the case that it isn't so, can anyone tell me if the same part no. (LSUC0022) applies to my TV too. Any help on this issue would be greatly appreciated.
Nirmalya


I have a PT-44LCX65 and have the EXACT same issues. The new bulb and the one I just replaced look the same. The original bulb was black around the edges and white in the middle when I replaced it. I just cant believe two new bulbs are both bad.
post #56 of 301
I have reposted the Panasonic PT-40LC12 and PT-45LC12 ballast repair instructions. They are located at http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1066130

Quote:
Originally Posted by bernoulli View Post

TOMWIL,

If you have the patience to repost your earlier instructions, I would greatly appreciate it fore I have the same problem and from all I read you seem to be the man!

Thank you,
Gary
post #57 of 301
If a bulb lights up, but cuts off after a minute or so due to the ballast possibly needing the repair kit installed does that mean the bulb is most likely still ok because it does light up?

I just bought a used Panasonic PT-50LC13 for $50 and also purchased the ballast repair kit for $16 + $4 shipping. The person who sold it to me said he figured it needed a bulb, but the repair man told him it was most likely the ballast. I am hoping to get lucky and have a working TV as soon as I go and buy some new solder and flux to install the new components. Any input would be greatly appreciated.
post #58 of 301
I also have a PT-44LCX65 which takes the TY-LA1000 bulb. Have just purchased and installed a new bulb. Worked for 3 days. I would like to purchase a ballast repair kit but need to know if it's the Panasonic p/n: LSUC0022 that I need for my PT-44LCX65.
Thanks for the great forum.
post #59 of 301
Quote:
Originally Posted by dburl View Post

I would like to purchase a ballast repair kit but need to know if it's the Panasonic p/n: LSUC0022 that I need for my PT-44LCX65.

If you plug your model number into Panasonic's Parts website you will see that the LSUC0022 (version LSQL1865-1) parts are used on your set.

However, the service manual only lists the Ballast CBA (LSEB3163A) as a complete unit, and does not show the individual components. If you purchase this repair kit, you will have to match up the components on the board on your own.
post #60 of 301
Quote:
Originally Posted by parkerpeach View Post

If a bulb lights up, but cuts off after a minute or so due to the ballast possibly needing the repair kit installed does that mean the bulb is most likely still ok because it does light up?

According to this link, the bulb could be drawing too much current and shutting down the ballast. It is unknown at this time whether the ballast repair kit would solve this type of problem. Please let us know of your results!
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