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Ballast Repair Kit for Panasonic PT-50LC13 - Page 3

post #61 of 301
Hi -

Great thread. Tomwil and Brogers should be commended for their contribution.

I have the (Dreaded?) PT-50LC13 and it died last week. I'm on my 3rd bulb burn-ou after only 4.5 years of ownership. Still I love the TV when it works.

This time, I ordered a bare bulb from DLP Lamp XPress but when I put it in - no dice. I also don't hear any clicking noise at all, except when I first turn the TV on. The rest of the symptoms are atypical of a burnt out bulb: Green flash for a couple minutes, then red-flash with a "lamp" indicator flashing once every 5 secs. Fan quietly whirring in the background.

Phew - at least the olympics are over!

Now - the Bulb - It was sold as a Panasonic "TY-LA1000" replacement lamp, but it was a little harder to fit into my housing than the original. Watch the video here and pay attention tho the lower wire post which is on the right-side of the original bulb, and the left side of the replacement. also the bottom plates aren't flush like they were with the original bulb. I don't recall any markings on the bulb but at this point I will probably take it out and inspect.

I'd like to know if anyone else has dealt with DLP Lamp XPress and whether they are reputable....?

...And with my symptoms should I go buy the LSUC0022 kit and break out my (sure-to-be-dusty) soldering iron? Is that the right kit for my TV model too? Is there anything else that I will need? Panasonic's price on the kit is $21.07 - is that the best price?

Thanks in advance!

-Braino!
post #62 of 301
Quote:
Originally Posted by Braino View Post

This time, I ordered a bare bulb from DLP Lamp XPress but when I put it in - no dice. I'd like to know if anyone else has dealt with DLP Lamp XPress and whether they are reputable....?

I have dealt with DLP Lamp XPress. I think they are related to River Valley Electronics. The bulb I ordered from them did not work in my TV, with the same symptoms as your unit has. I was able to return the bulb for a refund, minus the shipping charges. I found their customer support as excellent, with a toll-free number and quick responses to email.

My ultimate solution was to install the ballast repair kit, and get the actual bulb and enclosure from Panasonic itself. Seems that combination is working out fine, for now.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Braino View Post

...And with my symptoms should I go buy the LSUC0022 kit and break out my (sure-to-be-dusty) soldering iron? Is that the right kit for my TV model too? Is there anything else that I will need? Panasonic's price on the kit is $21.07 - is that the best price?

The price seems about right, and you will probably get the newer kit rather than left-over older stock. The kit was made for your TV specifically. Installing the kit will probably help in your situation. Electronic experience will be needed, and simple tools, like screwdrivers, pliers, tweezers, etc.
post #63 of 301
Does anybody know part list for lsuc0022?Transistor or capacitor value?
post #64 of 301
The LSUC0022 parts list is shown on the 2nd post of this thread.
post #65 of 301
Greetings. First of all, many thanks for the excellent assistance offered in this thread. It savedme much panic and hair pulling.
I have a PT-45LC12 TV, and yes, I hate the low life of the bulb. Yesterday I turned on my TV to find flashing green light, no picture. Upon investigation on the web, I found your site (among others) talking about the thermal fuse and the ballast repair. I popped the back of the TV off, checked the obviously placed thermal fuse with my multi-meter, sure enough, no continuity. Snipped it off, temporarily crimped the wires together, TV works. My local electronics store has a similar thermal fuse (117 c instead of 115c) which I will pick up tonight on the way home and crimp into place.
Questions.
1. Any evidence out there that a blown thermal fuse is an indication of further problems? I deal with thermal fuses in my work, so I know sometimes they just die, for no good reason, just "your time is up"

2. Is there any compelling reason to go through the hassle (and possible danger of damaging components) to replace the components in the LSUC0022 repair kit if the TV is currently working? (best price I have found is tristatemodule $15.89 plus shipping, minimum shipping $7.95) Will replacing the components (specifically the capacitor,which I read has a different value than the one stock in the board) possibly avoid future problems or extend the life of my bulb?

Thank you again for all the great helps, photos, instructions and hand holding for these problems. (I wonder why they didn't include a thermal fuse in the ballast repair kit)
post #66 of 301
you guys are great. original post...thanks a ton for the photos. i t's so funny i found this today while googleing the ballast.

i had same problem. called a guy and he told me 335 to fix. i found the parts for 30 bux and almost puked. i'm gonna try and do this myself . i used to solder slot cars together so it can't be that hard.

ONE QUESTION. I HAVE EVERYTHING APART AND UNHOOKED BALLAST WISE. THE ONE PROBLEM IS.... THOSE 3 WHITE PLASTIC THINGS THAT ARE HOLDING THE CIRCUIT BOARD TO THE CHASIS. THEY ARE LIKE THOSE ONES YOU INSERT INTO A HOLE AND THEY OPEN ON THE OTHER SIDE AND YOU CAN'T GET THEM OUT. HOW THE HELL DO YOU GET THEM OUT TO BE ABLE TO LIFT THE CIRCUIT BOARD OUT TO WORK ON IT?????

THANKS A TON
CHRIS
CHRISLINEPA@HOTMAIL.COM
post #67 of 301
you guys are great. original post...thanks a ton for the photos. i t's so funny i found this today while googleing the ballast.

i had same problem. called a guy and he told me 335 to fix. i found the parts for 30 bux and almost puked. i'm gonna try and do this myself . i used to solder slot cars together so it can't be that hard.

ONE QUESTION. I HAVE EVERYTHING APART AND UNHOOKED BALLAST WISE. THE ONE PROBLEM IS.... THOSE 3 WHITE PLASTIC THINGS THAT ARE HOLDING THE CIRCUIT BOARD TO THE CHASIS. THEY ARE LIKE THOSE ONES YOU INSERT INTO A HOLE AND THEY OPEN ON THE OTHER SIDE AND YOU CAN'T GET THEM OUT. HOW THE HELL DO YOU GET THEM OUT TO BE ABLE TO LIFT THE CIRCUIT BOARD OUT TO WORK ON IT?????

THANKS A TON
CHRIS
CHRISLINEPA@HOTMAIL.COM
post #68 of 301
Quote:
Originally Posted by chrisline View Post

I HAVE EVERYTHING APART AND UNHOOKED BALLAST WISE. THE ONE PROBLEM IS.... THOSE 3 WHITE PLASTIC THINGS THAT ARE HOLDING THE CIRCUIT BOARD TO THE CHASIS. THEY ARE LIKE THOSE ONES YOU INSERT INTO A HOLE AND THEY OPEN ON THE OTHER SIDE AND YOU CAN'T GET THEM OUT. HOW THE HELL DO YOU GET THEM OUT TO BE ABLE TO LIFT THE CIRCUIT BOARD OUT TO WORK ON IT?

I used needle nose pliers, and just squeezed the spades together to allow the circuit board to slip up and around them.
post #69 of 301
that was gonna be my first try tomorrow thanks a TON
post #70 of 301
Hi All! I've got my PT-50LC13 torn up in the back with the ballast board ready to be pulled. My problem is the three wiring connections (p1301, p1302, p1303, p1305) that lead somewhere to middle of the set. Does anyone have any info on what to remove to get to those connections? I'm sending the ballast board out for the repair and need to get those unhooked.... Thanks!
post #71 of 301
@tol56 - I don't have your model TV, but it appears you have to remove the TV Tuner Unit that is located to the left of the ballast, in order to remove the ballast connections from the TV Tuner Unit.

The disassembly manual seems to be available at http://tsn.pasc.panasonic.com/viewin.../3disassem.pdf
post #72 of 301
LTI, Lighting Technologies Inc no longer exists in the rear projection TV marketplace. They were purchased last year by Philips Lighting (Philips Electronics). One of the reasons LTI was purchased was to strength Philips' market share in the cinema business but an equally important reason was to eliminate a competitor that gave UHP lamps a bad name with their unreliable products. Today in the market, there are essentially FOUR major OEMs:

Philips, Matsushita (Panasonic), Toshiba, Osram. Must of this stuff is repeat information and I rather not copy and paste it here...
post #73 of 301
There is also Ushio, though most of their lamps are used in FP units.

http://www.ushio.com/files/catalog/p...nt-lcd-dlp.pdf
post #74 of 301
My PT50LC13 won't start. Replaced the bulb but it still won't start. When I turn it on, I get two green flashes then continuous organge-red fashes-five flashes, a pause and this repeats until unpluged. I'm tempted to try the ballast fix but would appreciate some confirmation that this is the likely problem. I was puzzled when I replaced the last bulb because it hadn't imploded like previous ones had (it was an osram). Having just invested $115 in the new bulb, I hate to just scrap the TV. It does not seem to make sense economically to have a repair shop fix it.
post #75 of 301
Quote:
Originally Posted by ChuckRA View Post

When I turn it on, I get two green flashes then continuous organge-red fashes-five flashes, a pause and this repeats until unpluged.

What LED(s) are flashing?

If it is just the TEMP LED that is flashing 5 times, then it indicates a clogged air filter. Otherwise, if a different LED or multiple LEDs are flashing, it could require more intensive repair.
post #76 of 301
Here is some more info on my problem. Had to go back and look for more LED lamps since I hadn't noticed the lamp & temp indicator lights previously!

The continuos redish-orange colored flashing light comes through the slot in the power on button. When the TV is turned on the power button has two green flashes followed by five redish-orange flashes, a pause and then five redish-orange flashes again and again. This repeates until the unit is unpluged. When the unit is first turned on, the Lamp indicator and Temperature indicator LEDs blink red one time only.

I've had the back cover off and removed the fan looking for filters but didn't see any filters. There are only vent slots on both sides of the rear panel. Did some cleanup but the unit was not terribly dusty at all. Is there really a filter somewhere that I didn't see?
post #77 of 301
Quote:
Originally Posted by ChuckRA View Post

When the TV is turned on the power button has two green flashes followed by five redish-orange flashes, a pause and then five redish-orange flashes again and again ... the Lamp indicator and Temperature indicator LEDs blink red one time only.

The nearest LED sequence listed in the service manual is when the power LED flashes 5 times within 5 seconds, the Lamp LED and the Temp LED each flash once every 5 seconds. This indicates abnormal voltage detected on the Main Circuit Board Assembly.

Quote:
Originally Posted by ChuckRA View Post

Is there really a filter somewhere that I didn't see?

The filter is located in the Projection Unit. The Projection Unit must be removed from the rear, to reach the filter. When the filter needs cleaning, there is usually a message on the screen recommending filter cleaning.
post #78 of 301
Hi recently replaced lamp for the 2nd time (3rd lamp) worked fine for three weeks, now I have no picture but perfect sound. There is a faint glow from screen making me think lamp is lit. Any suggestions? Also, none of the diagnostic lights are blinking, power light is solid green. Thanks!
post #79 of 301
My 40lc12 has had 5 or more bulbs since it was new on the market (thanks to BB's ext. warrenty). Recently a dimming picture caused me to buy a replacement bulb from discount merchant.com. The picture looked great and lasted 3 days. Went to flashing green (hearing slight rapid clicking at the bulb assy. followed by red flashes for a minute, no other lights. Sent it back for testing they sent another bulb to me (also one replacement only). It worked for 2 days and then...also old bulb would not light again. Fragile beyond belief?

Seems to be common to the tv, and as others wonder, did the affordable bare bulb (not having the ventilating screen walls of the orig. type) have a failure? Is the ballast taxed out? The tv is watched about m-f 6 hours and sa su 18 hours a day; basicly on when we're home.

Thoughts any one, or is it obvious to be the ballast? has anyone determined if all 4 power Xtors need replacing on the 40?

Thanks,
Bob
post #80 of 301
Two questions, what should you clean the bulb with if you touch it? And when you install the new parts on the circuit board, is it easy to figure out which way they go?
post #81 of 301
So I have the blinking green power light - PT-45LC12. Just picked up this set from a neighbor for $50. The lamp is not obviously exploded. Is replacing the lamp my first step at this point?
post #82 of 301
Quote:
Originally Posted by mclass View Post

Two questions, what should you clean the bulb with if you touch it? And when you install the new parts on the circuit board, is it easy to figure out which way they go?

The bulb can probably be cleaned gently with a soft cloth dampened (not wet) with rubbing alcohol, obviously when the bulb is cool.

If you are talking about the parts available in the ballast kit, the diode and transistor need to be oriented properly. If you read the previous posts, there is some mention about orientation of the parts.

Quote:
Originally Posted by santiclaws View Post

So I have the blinking green power light - PT-45LC12. Just picked up this set from a neighbor for $50. The lamp is not obviously exploded. Is replacing the lamp my first step at this point?

You should have a blinking green, followed by a blinking red and eventually a shutdown. If so, lamp replacement is usually recommended first, before any of the more extensive solutions.
post #83 of 301
Quote:
Originally Posted by tomwil View Post

The bulb can probably be cleaned gently with a soft cloth dampened (not wet) with rubbing alcohol, obviously when the bulb is cool.

If you are talking about the parts available in the ballast kit, the diode and transistor need to be oriented properly. If you read the previous posts, there is some mention about orientation of the parts.



You should have a blinking green, followed by a blinking red and eventually a shutdown. If so, lamp replacement is usually recommended first, before any of the more extensive solutions.


Thanks,

How long before it starts blinking red? So far, it just blinked green for a couple of minutes and I turned it off.
post #84 of 301
Quote:
Originally Posted by santiclaws View Post

How long before it starts blinking red? So far, it just blinked green for a couple of minutes and I turned it off.

It should blink green for 140 seconds, then blink red for 60 seconds, and then turn solid red as the unit shuts down fully.
post #85 of 301
Quote:
Originally Posted by tomwil View Post

It should blink green for 140 seconds, then blink red for 60 seconds, and then turn solid red as the unit shuts down fully.

Nope, just blinks green.
post #86 of 301
Quote:
Originally Posted by santiclaws View Post

Nope, just blinks green.

According to the service manual, a continuously blinking green indicates 3 possible problem areas.

1) Check the duct fan and determine if it is turning. If it is not turning, then the Main CBA is at fault.

2) Check Temperature Fuse P1701. If defective, replace.

3) Otherwise, the Power CBA is at fault.
post #87 of 301
Thanks much. The CBA is ?? Circuit Board? And the fuse is the heat fuse at the back? I guess I will try replacing the fuse first, I don't think I am qualified to do much else.
post #88 of 301
Thanks for the help, I only replaced Item 1,2, and 6 (in Picture at the front of thread) and it works. I did not want to try to replace the small square unit on the bottom. Could this give me trouble in the future? Also does anyone know which piece is the one that causes the problems, or do all of them cause the problem?
post #89 of 301
I think I needed to make my post a more definitive question. Is the CBA the circuit board? If so, will the ballast kit resolve the circuit board problems? Is the P1701 fuse the heat fuse?

Thanks
post #90 of 301
Quote:
Originally Posted by mclass View Post

I only replaced Item 1,2, and 6 (in Picture at the front of thread) and it works. I did not want to try to replace the small square unit on the bottom. Could this give me trouble in the future? Also does anyone know which piece is the one that causes the problems, or do all of them cause the problem?

Not sure what actual part(s) may have been faulty, but Panasonic provides all those parts for a reason only they know. But, if it works, it might not last long as a faulty part may still exist and weaken the replaced parts.


Quote:
Originally Posted by santiclaws View Post

Is the CBA the circuit board? If so, will the ballast kit resolve the circuit board problems? Is the P1701 fuse the heat fuse?

According to Panasonic, CBA = Circuit Board Assembly.

Check here. Keep the diagnosis steps of the blinking green led in mind. You will see the duct fan, which you can determine if it is spinning. There is info provided about the temp fuse. And, the Power CBA contains the ballast kit parts.
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