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Samsung HL-T Tech Links

post #1 of 21
Thread Starter 
Since I just upgraded to the HL-T6189 model through a warranty exchange program, I'm starting to collect HL-T specific informative tips, threads, links and information. Send me a private mail for any important thread links, weblinks which you think should be included and archived here... Thanks!

MAJOR PROBLEM SURFACING WITH HLT SETS: "Dead Red LED syndrome"
Read more beginning here and following

Dead Red LED do-it-yourself repair possible

HLT Owners Thread
Post #1 has good links to online version of the owner's manual, quick startup guides, spec sheets, etc.

Second smaller HLT Owners thread

720 P HLT Owners Thread HLTXX75S DLP Models

DocRings video setting recommendations

Curt Palme calibration website... very good!

HL-T Service Menu calibration routine...not for the faint of hear..requires Spyder2 sensor

Starter Video Setting Recommendations

Samsung Recommended Service Menu Changes for color (official service tech handout)

Spreadsheet to track Service Menu calibration changes

CES Model Information

Firmware Version Check Process

Firmware upgrades can brick the TV

Halo Problem Description

Halo /Prism Issues and Warranty Fix

Grid and Halo Test Patterns

Halo Test Pattern Web Link

Halo Fix Guide PDF format

Red Streak Issue

Reverts to Dynamic mode when turning on or changing video sources

Buzzing from LED Circuit Board

ATI Card PC on HDMI3, DIY

TV-Test Zip file for checking stuck pixels (PC input or USB stick)

Geometry Test Image

Tilt adjustments

External Picture Rotation Instructions

10=bit or 30-bit processing??

Order the Service Manual here

Picture of the Phlat Light LED's...

3D Gaming and DVD information

Purchase 3D glasses Here

Discrete IR Codes for HLT Video sources, etc.

Discrete IR Codes for HLT Service Menu

24FPS capable from PS3

What's the difference between the "S" model and the "SAX" model?

No game lag with XBOX or PS3

Red Push "fix": firmware downgrade/upgrade


Firmware upgrade failure report


Different firmware for 87 vs. 89 models... beware!

Firmware download locations: BEWARE!!!!

Firmware upgrade for 87 model gives 24FPS movie playback

Turning off "SHOP" mode which reset the TV to "Dynamic" every 30 minutes.

DIY Fan Repair link and links to instructions and where to purchase the fans

PS3 ir2BT IR->bluetooth mods

IR4PS3 remote mod kit

Nyko IR to bluetooth remote and adapter

That's all for tonight...

Cheers,
Doc


post #2 of 21
DOC,
Nice, very nice. I've been wanting to do this for some time now. Just never seem to get to it.

Thanks
post #3 of 21
Thread Starter 
Thanks! Hopefully, people will send me more ideas on what to include... and I will post them here.

Cheers,
Doc
post #4 of 21
Doc, I have noticed that there are two different Tech Links for the HLT models. One appears to cover both the HLS & HLT while this one seems to only cover the HLT. I have a HL-T76187SAX so I am wondering which one I need to bookmark. Will this one contain all the links from the HLS/HLT Treh Links that apply to the HLT?

Great Threads by the way. Appreciate all the work in compiling this list.
post #5 of 21
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by SLYDoggie View Post

Doc, I have noticed that there are two different Tech Links for the HLT models. One appears to cover both the HLS & HLT while this one seems to only cover the HLT. I have a HL-T76187SAX so I am wondering which one I need to bookmark. Will this one contain all the links from the HLS/HLT Treh Links that apply to the HLT?

Great Threads by the way. Appreciate all the work in compiling this list.

Thanks for your appreciation! It's a lot of work, but makes it much easier for everyone so that you don't have to slog through hundreds of pages of threads to find something not easily found with a search.

The HLT thread is pretty new, and so the HLS tech links will probably always have more items, and you can reference that occasionally, as long as you realize some things are only specific to the hardware/software on the HLS, and may not work at all on the HLT.

So I guess to answer your question, bookmark both!

Cheers!
Doc
post #6 of 21
Thread Starter 
HL-T "Official" Samsung Service Menu Changes (Handout for Field Techs)

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...1#post12752161
post #7 of 21
Thread Starter 
post #8 of 21
Thread Starter 
post #9 of 21
Thread Starter 
Notes: 1080i channel, some previous SM tweaks from HD-DVD player on component channel.
PS3 video settings over HDMI 1:
Frame/Block/Mosquito Noise Reduction: OFF
Upscale: FULL
Video Output: Y Pb/Cb/ Pr/Cr
Super White: ON
Dynamic Range Control: OFF

HLT-6189S Settings: (prior to any SM calibrations)
Movie
Contrast 83 (more than that gets blooming of whites... okay to go lower if a dark theater atmosphere)
Brightness 46 adjust to taste... (just start to see 1% bars on Get Grey calibration DVD)
For PS3 games: 60
Sharpness 0
Color 42 (Get Grey calibration DVD with Blue Filter)
or Color 46 (Red 21% luminance of 100% White) (so 44 would be a compromise of the both)
Tint G44/R56 (Get Grey calibration DVD with Blue Filter)
Warm2 (Best colors)
Detailed Settings:
Black Adj OFF
Dynamic Contrast OFF
Gamma 0
White Balance -10 (closest to D65, less negative settings are too high of white temp)
My Color Control 15/15/15
Edge Enhancement OFF
xvYCC OFF
Size JUST SCAN (1.5% overscan - best setting)
Digital NR OFF
Active Color (OFF Greyed out)
DNIe (OFF greyed out)
Color Gamut NORMAL (rRGB and Wide are less accurate to Tristim plot, too small and too large, respectively)

Under "Plug & Play" menu on HLT:
Game Mode Off
HDMI Black Level Normal (if not greyed out)
Film Mode OFF (if not greyed out)
post #10 of 21
Thread Starter 
Samsung HL-T Service Menu Calibration with HCFR program and a Spyder2 probe Colorimeter.

Update: Read post #11 (right after this one) before proceeding.

Needed Items:
GetGray Calibration DVD
You will absolutely require some Blue Filter glasses for adjusting color available HERE
Spyder2 Probe ($60 at newegg.com)
HCFR Software


HCFR software & Spyder2 colorimeter setup:
- Load HCFR on a laptop computer with the Spyder DLL file copied to the HCFR folder.
- Preferences-->References choose 709 (HD DVD) or 601 (SD DVDs) (I don't have a BR HD calibration disc yet)
- RGB levels leave at default 16-235, ref white D65
- “DVD Manual” (you’ll be manually moving through GetGray)
- “Spyder2” probe, change 300ms-->500ms, choose "CRT" (not LCD), extend time for dark, average readings
- All readings in "x,y,Y" mode. x and y are in decimal format. (e.g. a reading of .311, would equal 311)

- Equilibrate TV and Sensor temps for at least 30 minutes. Hang the sensor on the TV to equilibrate temps.

All sensor readings are taken in the typical ambient lighting of your environment. For home theaters, that would mean small lights on dim level. Have a lamp available to record settings in between tweaks and sensor readings.

HLT Initial Setting changes prior to calibration:
- To get to the service menu, use a universal remote with the codes downloaded into them, or turn off TV, then with the Samsung remote hit: Mute, 1, 8, 2, power. The TV will turn on and be in the Service menu on the last loaded input channel (HDMI, component, TV, etc.)

- These changes you will make will alter the default “Dynamic” mode to be correct and require no user menu changes! and Contrast/Brightness/Cool1 calibrated correct color & D65 by default.
-
- Enter Service Menu (programmed universal remote best) BOLD = submenu
-
- CCA (ON) --> adjust [Cool1]DW_x = 312, and [Cool1]DW_y = 329 (These set the Cool1 setting to D65 standards.)

[IMG]http://s699.photobucket.com/albums/vv357/docrings/HLT%20Service%20Menu/?action=view&current=Cool1_alter.jpg[IMG]
-
- WHITE BALANCE: Adjust "Sub_Contrast(FBE)" = 110. (I did it in this menu, and not in FBE(2) submenu... but you might be able to do it there, too...still learning this menu)
(On my set, if it was any greater than a setting of 115, the red LED gain could not be brought up to match Blue and Green output, resulting in a too blue white balance) For my home theater, the screen threw too much light anyway.

- Start the GetGray DVD-->Brightness/Contrast section-->moving dark bars for brightness:
-
- FBE(2) : Adjust sub-brightness to just barely see 1% and 2% bars. I get up close and turn up sub-brightness till the 1% bar starts to turn on the sub-pixels (best seen from about 12” away).


-
--FBE(2): Skin Enable = OFF




-- SP ACTURATOR -->DB on/off, either leave DB ON “auto” mode (will adj brightness with sub-bright) or “DB OFF” for manual iris control. I left mine ON (for now). Don't you like how they mis-spelled "actuator" in the menu?

NOW:

Adjust grayscale & Color:



Advanced grayscale calibration (requires working knowledge of HCFR program)

- CCA(ON): ensure CCA is “On”
-
- Put up a GetGray "100% white" window.
-
- Position the Spyder2 sensor in the lower right portion of the white window. This will allow some of the important CCA submenu to be displayed and not interfere with readings.
-
- Make sure the Spyder2 sensor is gently against the screen, you can gently adhere it with the suction cups if you remove the snap-on black bezel.

- GetGray-->Low level gray (20% IRE): hit continuous “Measures” on HCFR to get R,G, B levels on a moving HCFR graph (you will mostly end up changing Red and Blue gains and cuts… green may not need any change).

- DESATURATION (ON) menu: adjust R_Offset, G_Offset, B_Offset to get them all to around 100% with the sensor, with the “Delta” pink line on HCFR less than “2” and the Temperature scale to 6500K. Start with adjusting the highest color downward first, and ever so slowly tweak each value up or down to get them all to balance with minimal delta and on D6500. One affects the other, so change one color at a time. At the end, even one click up or down will make a difference.

-- Get Gray --> High level Gray (90% IRE or 100% IRE): now adjust R_Gain, G_Gain, B_Gain individually to re-balance the three colors on your TV in continuous reading mode, to attain less than a "2" delta between them (on the HCFR program), and to track at D6500 on the HCFR software. Start by lowering the highest color (usually blue), and adjusting the others (slowly!) to balance at D6500.



You may have to go back and forth between the 20% gray and 100% grey, slowly tweaking to get them both equilibrated and stable readings.


(If you right-click on the HCFR graph you can change scales, line thickness, etc. to make it easier to read. Line thickness “1”, 50 measures, minimum scale)

- The Spyder2 may take up to two minutes per reading at very low light levels… so be patient, and wait for TWO graph readings to ensure stability between changes. This may take you about half-an-hour or more, so be patient, and keep the ambient lighting low.

- Stop the continuous acquisition mode when complete.

- Run a HCFR Grey Scale data acquisition run. This starts with the GetGray “0 %”, and runs up to 100% by 10% increments. HCFR will prompt you to move forward. Remember that low light levels (0%, 10%, 20%) may take a couple minutes each. You will then get a grayscale tracking graph and see where you need to repeat the Low/High level “tweaks” again to get even closer. I ignore the 0% and 10% as it is almost always out of whack due to the inexpensive nature of the Spyder2 sensor and low-light fluctuations. Just focus on 20% to 90% tracking. If you are a super-tweaker, continue to repeat the above sequence and by all means try to get 10% and 100% as close to 6500K as possible, with minimum delta.


Advanced CIE Color triangle
- Adjusting subcolor: UNDER CONSTRUCTION

GetGray or HD-DVE --> use 100% windows of the Primary RED

(GREEN, BLUE, and then Secondaries YELLOW, CYAN, and MAGENTA will be used later)
-
- CCA(ON): ensure CCA is “On”. Leave up the CCA menu.
-
- Position the Spyder2 sensor in the lower right portion of the color window. This will allow the CCA(ON) menu to be up and not interfere with readings. Make sure the Spyder2 sensor is against the screen to prevent light leakage.
-
- Run a HCFR continuous reading of the first color (red first), and also open the CIE triangle in HCFR so you can see where that color is on the triangle, and how far from the standard.
-
- Each sensor reading takes about 3 to 15 seconds.
-
- The goal now is to get all six primary/secondary points into the little diamond points on the CIE triagle diagram which are the reference standard. So, the next step is to tweak the Desaturation(on) menu settings.
-
- Note: you don't have to turn CCA "OFF" to input numbers, just back out of the setting to activate what you've input, leaving CCA "ON" the whole time. Always ensure CCA is “ON” for any measurements, though. If you accidentally leave CCA “OFF” when you do a color measurement, your colors will be incorrect!
-
DESATURATION(ON) Menu for color coordinate changes (specifically to alter the WIDE color settings, which is the default after exiting the service menu)



-For example: [WIDE]RED is first. You note whether your current Spyder reading value for Red_x is too high or too low. You then alter Red_x and Red_y to move the color until it matches the triangle. If the reading is too high on the Spyder, then lower the menu number the corresponding amount. Play with it a bit and you will see how altering the menu changes the x, y coordinates of the color on the TV.
NOTE: Blues are hardest to move fully, and that may be the only color you won't be able to nail perfectly.
-
- I do this in HCFR continuous readout mode, getting instant feedback on changes. I do one color at a time in GetGray (e.g. Red 100%), and then in the Desturation(on) menu, alter the [WIDE]Red-x and [WIDE]Red-y values to get an instant update on the new color output of the television with HCFR in continuous mode. Just remember to alter the value, then exit that entry to activate it, and re-measure, re-calculate delta, and repeat till the 100% color reading is right on top of the reference triangle value. If you make a mistake the sensor reading circle will move further from the target circle on the CIE triangle.
-
- If a HCFR color-x or color-y sensor readings for x or y is too LOW from the reference value, then raise the Color-x or Color-Y value in the service menu a corresponding amount. If color-x or color-y is too HIGH, then lower Color-x or Color-y the difference between colorx and the target reference value. If you get too far out of limits, you may notice your colors change dramatically!

Target Values:
x y
Red 650 330
Green 300 600
Blue 150 60
Cyan 225 339
Mag 321 154
Yell 419 505

D65 312 329

Now when you exit the Service Menu, you be in "Dynamic" mode, and back to WIDE color gamut, DNIe off, Active Color off, and Cool1 white settings. Brightness will need to be adjusted to around 45...use your favorite dark scene movie to adjust to taste.
This is what you just calibrated for "correct". If you want to go back and tweak Cinema and Warm2, then go ahead...you will then have access to the "advanced settings" under the Cinema settings.

Make sure DNIe is Off, and now tweak color saturation with the blue filters and looking at a calibration GetGrayDVD. I like the "Steaming Rat" method for setting color using flesh tones with source material. YMMV. See the Tech Links for the Steaming Rat method.

Here's another good link by another member with a simplified HLT calibration overview:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...4#post11326234

Cheers!
Doc
post #11 of 21
Thread Starter 
Notes on HLT SM Calibration:

1) Using HDMI, I am unable to adjust the Gamma setting in the SM or in the Video menu "advanced settings", so blacks are a bit crushed, requiring some increase in brightness on the video menu, which is not ideal.

2) As above, the blacks are a bit crushed, so I will have to go back into the service menu and adjust sub-brightness with a good DVD with lots of dark scenes to adjust.

3) I haven't found a good place to adjust sub-color in the Service Menu (the HLS had an easy adjustment). So this necessitates reducing the "color" on the main video menu down from 55 to about 42 to suit my taste. Again...use the "Steaming Rat" method described in my Tech Links.

4) No reliable way to disable DNIe and Active Color from the Service Menu (yet). So those have to be disabled in the Video Menu after exiting the Service Menu. But the calibration is done with DNIe "on" in the Service Menu...???

5) Again, I am personally opting to alter the DYNAMIC/WIDE/Cool1 color settings in the SM (which are the default video settings when I leave the SM), and leave the sRGB/Warm2 settings alone. They were actually quite good as they were, but I wanted to tweak something!

6) I realized you can cycle inputs while in the Service Menu by hitting the input button on the remote.

I will add further notes as I get more information...

NOTE: This is *NOT* a substitute for a pro calibration... I just can't afford that right now, and I love tinkering.
post #12 of 21
-- SP ACTURATOR -->DB on/off, either leave DB ON auto mode (will adj brightness with sub-bright) or DB OFF for manual iris control. I left mine ON (for now). Don't you like how they mis-spelled "actuator" in the menu?

Uhm.. Isn't this the mirror for smoothvision or whatever?? You don't want to muck with this one! You tune it until the lines are smooth then leave them.. It has nothing do do with brightness control..
post #13 of 21
My Samsung is the HL-T5076S. Most of this thread is HL-Txx8/89 discussion but it is a Samsung HL-T Tech Links thread so here's my question.
I'm using the RGB component inputs for *D sat HDTV. It up converts everything to 1080i so when watching any letterbox show I'd like to fill the screen using Wide Fit. Zoom 1 & Zoom 2 are not available because I'm using the RGB component inputs. But, Wide Fit doesn't proportion the vertical height correctly, only about 1/2 as much as it needs, but it does stretch the horizontal width correctly. Is there an internal adjustment to fix this?
post #14 of 21
A few comments after dabbling in the gray arts of calibrating my 5689.
Firmware 1014.
Always have all the settings written down before starting.

I setting up the primaries (RGB) Cx,Cy,CY in the CCA section, you can turn off CCA, enter the DDP3021 section, and using the built in Test Patterns display the "raw" R,G, & B colors.
In doing an "inventory" of what patterns are available, there are some 20 patterns. With CCA off, some confusion may occur in seeing what's there. With CCA ON, things show differently.
Pattens: R,G,B,W,Black, checker,white, Blk, R,G,B,Y,M,C, checkered, Grey pattern1, Grey pattern2, Vertical lines, Horizontal lines, Criss cross lines and then the pattern generator returns you to the DP3021 menu.
The 2nd set of colors, in blue above, when CCA On, seem to be the end result of the values as entered in the CCA fields. Also the 2nd set differs from the 1st set as if they were not effected by CCA values.
This is where you do the R21%, G71%, B8% fudge.

Using this, I was able to "equalize" the individual DeltaE between R, G,B, and allow better results in setting up the secondaries in the Desaturation section.
(Used HCFR & i1LT).
Last recorded DeltaE's were:Red 9.3, Green 7.0, Blue 8.0, Yellow 11.1, Cyan 19.3, and Magenta 13.9
Compared to where they started out, I am pleased. By no means have I achieved the end, or perfection.
I will post some more facets discovered in the next post.
Cheers to Docrings !
post #15 of 21
This is not step by step instructions !
5689s, firmware 1014

I've read many posts that Movie/Warm2 was close to D6500. Docrings had posted that the tv, in SM, boots with Cool1 DWx & Cool1 DWY (270,271)loaded as defined in the CCA fields. Also that seting them to the same values of Warm2 DWX,Y (311,327) would be helpful in calibration.
I spent much time measuring and adjusting, only to find out that there are somewhat disturbing differences between what happens in the Service Menu, and what can be matched up to it, in the User settings/regular viewing mode.
Sm boots w/ CCA Cool1 values and, deep breath, Desaturation Wide values.
You have to "manage" what is your source "REC(601 or 709)" which one you are going to adjust for, and don't forget in HCFR preferences, the setting there for the "REC(601,709)".
If you are going to be adjusting Desaturation601 "Normal", you can redefine the values in CCA Wide x,y as the Normal values, and go from there. If you are setting up Desaturation 709 "Wide" values, you just plug in the values of 709 & measure & adjust from there.
in the SM -
I would put a color on the screen, measure its Cx,y and determine the offset needed to the value in the coresponding Desaturation field. To get the CCA computer to implement the changes, I would go into the CCA section and turn CCA off, do a Color Sensor Save, (bright flashes), and if needed a Wide Band Spread. Recheck to see if correct results are achieved. Later, you can jump back and forth between the SM and the UM to finalize Desat values.
note: when setting up UM settings in Standard Mode, (use Getgray brightness of 100 & 10)measure 100 WhiteX, adjust Brightness & contrast for 0.65% of 100 WhiteX at 10White level. This sets your Brightness & Contrast as controlled test conditions.
Set color so that (for now) RedX is 21% of WhiteX. Turn off DNR, Color Correction etc. This gets old & repetitious.

note: I was using HDMI input. A wide band spread sometimes did not spread to Component and the PC. Always confirm amongst inuts, that the Spread action was achieved.

Long story short.
I found the closest way to make the SM and a defined User Menu close was as follows.
In CCA fields for Cool1 DWx & Cool1 DWY (270,271), change their values to that of the ones in the Normal DWx, Normal DWy (277, 280).
When you go to the User mode, Select Standard Mode, Normal Tone, and (either) Wide or Normal.
If you are doing Rec601 Normal, Rec709 Wide.
Catch 22, you need to set up desaturation, at least once.

I was able to set up Grayscale in White Balance screen, save it in HCFR.
Get back to User mode, run a Grayscale and save it in HCFR.
Compare, go back in to UM and offset the tracking there.Rerun grayscale in sm.
Go back to user node, rerun Grayscale and see whats next.
Repeat until you satisfied. You better have a programmable remote control for the power mute ### sequence to re enter the SM. It takes alot of jumping back & forth to adjust in the SM, measure in the UM. Thanks Samsung, lol.
I hope I've not jumped around too much or been confusing. Calibrarting this particular model, is not for anyone wanting to get in there, tweak, and get back out, and be done with it all.

When done reset CCA fields for Cool1 DWx & Cool1 DWY (270,271).
I found that Dynamic, Standard, and Movie modes were all easier to adjust to a more likable picture.

It looks to me that at the end of changing CCA values, that a Digital=>DMD transfer is needed.
Until I did that, some changes did not seem to take place or seem to "stick".
post #16 of 21
HL-T5689S
Spent a few months working thru the calibration, from ground Zero.
Used HCFR, and an i1LT.
Problem was after doing grayscale/white Balance with DVD via HDMI2, I kept seeing green on parts of dark scenes. Not all dark screnes, kind of depended upon what color was there, or the color of a mans suit.
Seems, at the low levels, I1lt performance and or my HD set top box (HDMI1) were the problem.
So, after seeing this one afternoon, I saw a scene of a Man in a dark suit, where one shoulder was illuminated more that the other. The darker shoulder/lapel had that green tinge.
Well, I have a DVR, and paused the scene. I stuck the i1LT sensor on the green area, went into the SM, and was able to lower G_offset, and raise R_offset & B_offset to normalize the temperature, and get rid of that low light level Grayscale error. It worked out very well.
One order of Hot Steaming Rat.
post #17 of 21
Quote:
Originally Posted by me75006 View Post

Set color so that (for now) RedX is 21% of WhiteX. Turn off DNR, Color Correction etc. This gets old & repetitious.

Are there any controls in the SM that can help you set Y? I'm assuming you were adjusting the UM "color."
I can get xy nearly perfect, still need to work on gamma though. (I'm working on Movie/Warm2.)
Oh, and you can turn all the DNIe stuff off. That's been posted in one of Docrings' threads.
post #18 of 21
Quote:
Originally Posted by mathgeek97 View Post

Are there any controls in the SM that can help you set Y? I'm assuming you were adjusting the UM "color."
I can get xy nearly perfect, still need to work on gamma though. (I'm working on Movie/Warm2.)
Oh, and you can turn all the DNIe stuff off. That's been posted in one of Docrings' threads.

I've seen that post, re: turning DNA off, however its not there in my 5689s, perhaps in some other model.
You can "tame" down WhiteY, with Rg,Gg,Bg in the White Balance section, of course that adjustment must be integrated with doing Grayscale/White Balance. Green will have the largest effect on WhiteY, or so it seemed to me, Blue next. Adjusting in the WB section usually will be cause to go back & re-check Colorx,y.
Regards !
post #19 of 21
Quote:
Originally Posted by me75006 View Post

I've seen that post, re: turning DNA off, however its not there in my 5689s, perhaps in some other model.
You can "tame" down WhiteY, with Rg,Gg,Bg in the White Balance section, of course that adjustment must be integrated with doing Grayscale/White Balance. Green will have the largest effect on WhiteY, or so it seemed to me, Blue next. Adjusting in the WB section usually will be cause to go back & re-check Colorx,y.
Regards !

Reading what you wrote above, it looks like you were able to properly set R21%, G71%, and B8% of WhiteY in the service menu. Can you share step-by-step instructions for doing that, being very specific about which settings to change and in what order?
Also, I remember seeing a list of settings that had "Dyn" in the name (I'm not at home with the TV right now). Do you suppose that would turn off the Dynamic features, such as DNIe?
post #20 of 21
Mathgeek, doing the xx89 series in my opinion, is a basket of compromises. Everything interacts with everything else. Trying to do all the adjustments to the theoretical perfection is going to be thwarted by the designs & imperfections of the design along with the limitations present in the hardware & firmware.
That said, as an example, In setting the Color control, which theoretically you crank upon until RY is ~ 21% of WY. I do that and measure the ftl of Red, noting the value of the color slider in the UM. I then repeat that with green. I then calculate the average color setting & use that. I may them proceed in measuring the Cx,y,Y in the CIE diagram and decide from there, what changes to make in the Destauration menu. Many aspects are going to be learned with a "dope slap" to ones forehead. One aspect I found that as I lowered the average picture brightness, as a side effect of doing White Balance, if greaatly improved gamma. Now, more experienced tweakers may know or be able to explain this, for me it was a learning experience. What ever you do keep a written hardcopy of what your settings are before you start, so you can compare & revert back...just in case.
I fat fingered the "Calibration" in the DDP30XX and was able to figure out what it does by comparison. It nukes the white Balance settings, depending upon whats being displayed.
I've adjusting on mine for a couple of months on and off, and the learning process requires a lot of time & numerous epiphanies and dope slaps.
The only turning off of any Dynamic Contrat features on my set, is in the User menus. I don't think, or to be more blunt, actually know as a fact, if there is any Dynamic contrast operating while in the Service menu.
There are some sections of the 5689 SM that are not accessable, ie, they are grayed out. There is a Cinema CCA section, that never seems to pay attention to any changes I dial in there, making the modification of the immediate Movie palettes & gamut, not avalable to me.
I had gone to route of doing all the adjustments with the goal of making the Movie mode the best aligned. However, that in my experience, screwed up Dynamic & Standard picture modes, and...I decided that path was not my choice to pursue.
Concluding
- it is going to require compromises in the settings.
- the tv is not a perfectly engineered product.
- your units "rev level" may require different procedures & values than another persons.
- take the time to go slowly & ALLWAYs remember that frequently adjusting one parameter, will have an effect upon another.
- you can aim for perfection, however, you can be quite suprised how far out of adjustment things can be and still see a great picture.
post #21 of 21
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