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Official AVS Motorola DCX series HD DVR Topic! - Page 90

post #2671 of 4764
Quote:
Originally Posted by crossbeaux View Post

Well, it happened again for the first time in a long time. Last night my recordings of both Desperate Housewives and Brothers and Sisters came up blank. That is, they show they're recorded, listed as 60 minutes long. But when I try to play them, the PLA indicator on the front panel appears, but the screen displays either the previous live programming or a black screen (black screen appears when I first try playing another saved program, and then try to play B&H or DH). Neither skip nor FF have any effect. I have tried everything I can think of to get these to play (switching to an HD or SD channel first and then trying to play them, playing another saved program first and then trying to play them, starting them multiple times to see if they'd start the next time, turning off the unit [not power down]).

Around the same time, both Walking Dead and Boardwalk Empire recorded just fine. And I tried a test record this morning and that worked too.

Before I delete the nonplaying programs, does anyone have any ideas about how to get them to play? Any clues about how to prevent this in the future?

Further update/correction. It turns out that Walking Dead was also corrupt. Only about 10 minutes of the program recorded. It turns out that the three corrupt programs were "recorded" on the same tuner, call it tuner 1. Tuner 2 was left in the foreground. i.e. this morning, when I turned on the set, the foreground tuner was playing HBO.

So, I tried manually swapping tuners (with the swap button). Sure enough, when tuner 1 came to the foreground, it displayed black screen and no audio. However, I could bring up the guide with tuner 1, and change the channel. And that channel did display. And switching back to the previous (black) channel on tuner 1 also worked.

When I manually swapped back to tuner 2, everything was fine. However, swapping back to tuner 1 caused a black screen. This happened no matter what channel tuner 1 was tuned to before the swap.

As a last resort, I pulled the plug on the unit and plugged it back in. The problem seemed to go away. I cannot duplicate it now.

So I think there's something awry with tuner swap, either hardware or software. It's easy to think this might just be my unit, but I've had this problem happen with multiple units, and it only started happening after the release of the a28 software. My current release is:

SW 78.54-a28p4.1005.r-6
FW 22.65
post #2672 of 4764
SOLVED ... to crossbeaux and all...

so i recently finished reading every post of the last 40 pages or so trying to find the solution to the black-freeze/picture freezek of recordings, both from the beginning and midstream -- and no luck finding that solution.

SO, i unplugged the unit and let it sit for a while, and at the same time unplugged both hdmi cable ends and reinstalled a couple of times to clean off the contacts. the hdmi goes from the dcx directly to a sony xbr8. the connection at the tv was solid and tight; at the dcx it was a bit sloppy and loose.

SUCCESS. whether it was the dcx box unplug, or the hdmi cable connection reseatings, the almost-constantly-inconsistently recording lockup has been solved 100%. it's been over a month now, and absolutely no reoccurance of the problem.

OCCASSIONAL BLACK-SCREEN HICCUP ON FF & RW, but it's OK: during fastforward or rewind, the screen will go black as if freezing, and it causes some breath-holding and swear-word preparations, but it works through itself, either by my pushing play, or coming back on its own albeit somewhat past where it should have. this seems to most often happen when there is a switching between sd advertisements and hd ads or content. it's a minor pain, but always brings back the angst of video/black-screen freeze. but it's far preferable to the dreaded freeze.

IF I'D BEEN THINKING, i shoulda only done one thing at a time (unplug dcx, unplug hdmi cable ends) to ascertain whether it was one or the other, or both, that solved the freeze problem.

hth

bc

P.S. in my case, the freezing happened both before and after an announced update to the guide. i did the unplug and hdmi connector reseats after the update. so i assume the update version has no affect on the problem either way.
post #2673 of 4764
Quote:
Originally Posted by crossbeaux View Post

.....Before I delete the nonplaying programs, does anyone have any ideas about how to get them to play? Any clues about how to prevent this in the future?

i tried every way including loose, and never successfully got a freeze-dried recording to go past the freeze. i tried over and over, stuck back in vcr-mind-mode, convinced that if i only got enough headstart that i could FF through the block, but of course it nevr worked.

as to clues to solving the problem, see above post and let us know if unplugging the dcx and/or reseating the hdmi cables works for you.
thanks
bc
post #2674 of 4764
Quote:
Originally Posted by maggiefan View Post

The DCX's do have cable cards, maybe it wasn't registered to your account. Did you call them when you got it hooked up and have them send a signal to it?

Yes I did. On Saturday called twice and seemed to solve problem. But I have further problems. Read reply to DSperber.
post #2675 of 4764
[quote=DSperber;19484970]Huh? What "old DVR"? Where is it? What model?

Do you have two DVRs in the same room right next to each other? Or is it in another room?

The "old" DVR is a DCX3400 that Iv'e had for a couple of years. I got this new DCX3400 to test against existing DCX3400. It replaced a STB.

I was kidding about AnyRoom DVR. I have my existing DVR in the living room and the new one in the master bedroom upstairs. Last night downstairs had a live program on and upstairs I was watching a recording. When I FF or RW the LR TV pauses, so play has to be pushed again. When the live broadcast got a head of where people were watching, when I pressed rewind, it rewound the live broadcast.

TWC wants to swap out my old DVR and they agreed to give me one free, so I could see if the new one has the same problems, but it has more. Some channels will be available shortly. Recordings are only a few min long. Time is still fast by 15 seconds.

I tried to call TWC this morning and after I got press one for English, they asked me my phone #. I keyed it in and they said it wasn't valid. Asked me to put in another # or my account#. Didn't have it with me. Asked me to put in my zip code and asked me if I was a new customer. After getting the please hold, their canned msgs were breaking up. I looked at my cell phone and I had max bars. I thought I'm going to have a problem when a human answers. Sure enough she couldn't hear me. I'm going to give it a shot this afternoon.

I look forward where someday I can turn on my TV and watch it, instead of making calls to my cable provider.
post #2676 of 4764
Quote:
Originally Posted by TVbc View Post

SOLVED ... to crossbeaux and all...

so i recently finished reading every post of the last 40 pages or so trying to find the solution to the black-freeze/picture freezek of recordings, both from the beginning and midstream -- and no luck finding that solution.

SO, i unplugged the unit and let it sit for a while, and at the same time unplugged both hdmi cable ends and reinstalled a couple of times to clean off the contacts. the hdmi goes from the dcx directly to a sony xbr8. the connection at the tv was solid and tight; at the dcx it was a bit sloppy and loose.

SUCCESS. whether it was the dcx box unplug, or the hdmi cable connection reseatings, the almost-constantly-inconsistently recording lockup has been solved 100%. it's been over a month now, and absolutely no reoccurance of the problem.

OCCASSIONAL BLACK-SCREEN HICCUP ON FF & RW, but it's OK: during fastforward or rewind, the screen will go black as if freezing, and it causes some breath-holding and swear-word preparations, but it works through itself, either by my pushing play, or coming back on its own albeit somewhat past where it should have. this seems to most often happen when there is a switching between sd advertisements and hd ads or content. it's a minor pain, but always brings back the angst of video/black-screen freeze. but it's far preferable to the dreaded freeze.

IF I'D BEEN THINKING, i shoulda only done one thing at a time (unplug dcx, unplug hdmi cable ends) to ascertain whether it was one or the other, or both, that solved the freeze problem.

hth

bc

P.S. in my case, the freezing happened both before and after an announced update to the guide. i did the unplug and hdmi connector reseats after the update. so i assume the update version has no affect on the problem either way.

Well, I don't want to burst your bubble, but I remain uncertain. First of all, I don't use HDMI for my video connection (I use component video cables). So I think that removes HDMI from consideration as the sole source of the problem.

Second, although I did resort today to unplugging the unit, and doing so did correct the obvious black screen issue I got when swapping tuners that began last night, I remain unconvinced that this is a permanent fix. Before last night, it has been more than a month since my last black screen episode. And since these episodes have been going on for some months (since a28 was downloaded to my DVR), and since I've replaced my DVR at least twice since then (first for a bigger hard drive, and second for an AnyRoom unit), and since I've unplugged and reset each of these units at least once before, I've got to believe that unplugging the unit is at best a temporary fix. I believe there's a problem with the a28 software that over time causes the black screen situations to arise. I also believe they are related to tuner swapping, especially in circumstances where both tuners are being used to record programs at the same time, or when the software has to swap tuners to make sure that a tuner that just finished recording something becomes the foreground tuner.

The problem with this situation is that it's not clear when the problem will occur. What's the MTBF? There's no guarantee that the next program you record will actually be recorded. Granted, unplugging seems to fix the problem for a while, but because the guide takes DAYS to fully refresh, this workaround can become almost as annoying as the problem.

I will keep tabs on how long it takes for my next black screen recording. But unless Comcast downloads some sort of fix, I believe this is a "when it happens" situation, not an "if it happens."
post #2677 of 4764
[quote=RFP2009;19492254]
Quote:
Originally Posted by DSperber View Post

I was kidding about AnyRoom DVR. I have my existing DVR in the living room and the new one in the master bedroom upstairs. Last night downstairs had a live program on and upstairs I was watching a recording. When I FF or RW the LR TV pauses, so play has to be pushed again. When the live broadcast got a head of where people were watching, when I pressed rewind, it rewound the live broadcast.

Well, this does seem impossible... unless there are "whole home" (M) models of the DCX boxes in your house.

If you're upstairs in the master bedroom pushing the remote for the DCX in that room, and your downstairs living room DCX is responding... well that's physically impossible for an IR remote (which I presume you have) to achieve, unless there are IR-relay/extender devices installed.

Or, remarkably maybe the IR blast in the bedroom is actually being reflected through the darkened halls and down the stairs into the living room, and thus affecting the IR-only DCX sensor in that box. Seems unlikely, I know.

In other words, there just is physically no way using an IR-only remote in one room can cause response from an IR-only box in another room unless the IR flash/blast from the remote is bright enough and not attenuated too much so that whatever "light echoes" manage to "arrive" in the second location is sufficiently strong to trigger the IR-only sensor in that other room's box, and cause it to respond.

Quite frankly, I do find this amazing.
post #2678 of 4764
[quote=DSperber;19493067][quote=RFP2009;19492254]Well, this does seem impossible... unless there are "whole home" (M) models of the DCX boxes in your house.

Called TWC. They are coming tomorrow. CSR says that there is a connection between the 2 that has to be removed. They aren't M models. In the past I could'nt get the IR sensor to work with my Leap Frog in the same room. This is why I said AnyRoom DVR before. It's strange that this is happening, but the CSR said immed what had to be done. Maybe they are all set for future rollout.
post #2679 of 4764
To anybody who has Charter,

On the late night of Nov. 15th/early morning of Nov. 16th Charter has updated the iGuide software. Now the current software is at 78.44 - A28p0-2.0908.r-4 with firmware at 22.92. On my end for the Interface/Port Status the USB port is ENABLED and ACTIVE. Now in the DVR category is DVR Cleanup, DVR History and DVR Setup.
post #2680 of 4764
NO Charter updates in Wisconsin yet. We still have 78.40-a28.S5.r-5 firmware 22.55
post #2681 of 4764
Quote:
Originally Posted by JedFRaybould View Post

To anybody who has Charter,

On the late night of Nov. 15th/early morning of Nov. 16th Charter has updated the iGuide software. Now the current software is at 78.44 - A28p0-2.0908.r-4 with firmware at 22.92. On my end for the Interface/Port Status the USB port is ENABLED and ACTIVE. Now in the DVR category is DVR Cleanup, DVR History and DVR Setup.

Got that update last night too.
post #2682 of 4764
I hope I'm not beating a dead horse, but after reading the whole thread and searching a few times, I'd like to ask two questions.

1. My DCX-3425's configuration is set to 720p fixed output and 4x3 Override=OFF. However, it likes to forget these settings and reset itself every time I power down my a/v processor and projector. Would something like an HDMI Detective continuously reporting 720p EDID info all the prevent the box from resetting itself? It feels like if I could just tell the box that something is constantly receiving its HDMI signal, then it'd stop returning to its default settings when I turn the other equipment off.

2. Sigh. This box also randomly mutes the video and then audio during live broadcasts, and I have to change channels or fiddle with the menus to get things back. I don't usually watch TV in the room with the DCX, and perhaps I haven't paid enough attention to it in the past, but last night while watching Monsters Inc on ENC-HD, it happened every 3 - 7 minutes. I read in this thread about people having something similar during DVR playback, but I'm talking live realtime viewing. Is this actually the same thing?

This particular box is brand new. While I'd like to think I can recognize the signs of a failing harddrive after previous experience with a dying DCT-3412, this blank screen issue with the DCX just doesn't feel like the same thing to me. Do I have a hardware issue here or am I giving too much credit to Comcast in its ability to provide stable software?
post #2683 of 4764
Quote:
Originally Posted by vando45 View Post


Got that update last night too.

Not sure if you know that there is an auto power off option in the USER SETTINGS MENU. If you are like me who likes their DVR on at all times just disable it. It is cool to have a DVR Cleanup and DVR History buttons now.
post #2684 of 4764
Quote:
Originally Posted by JedFRaybould View Post

To anybody who has Charter,

On the late night of Nov. 15th/early morning of Nov. 16th Charter has updated the iGuide software. Now the current software is at 78.44 - A28p0-2.0908.r-4 with firmware at 22.92. On my end for the Interface/Port Status the USB port is ENABLED and ACTIVE. Now in the DVR category is DVR Cleanup, DVR History and DVR Setup.

Just in passing, I note that 22.92 is certainly the latest firmware that I believe is available from Motorola.

However that 78.44 software is the original mid-2009 version of A28 that is so buggy, and naturally is therefore the software that TWC/LA still installs on their Moto boxes here in LA! In my area I got A28 back in August, and it had the same iGuide A28 software you just received this week from Charter in your area. TWC/LA had promised to push out a fixed version of A28 toward the end the year but that has still not happened.

You will notice a few problems with that particular A28 version, the most annoying of which is its "revert back to ROW #1" of your FAVORITES list, whenever you (a) use a FAVORITES list to check the Guide, and (b) "drill down" for INFO on a show's cell in the Guide, or maybe push OK to set a recording for that show/series, and then (c) push LAST to "pop back up" to then next highest level and particular cell you were last looking at. Instead of putting you right back at that exact cell in the Favorites-Guide you were looking at, you're reverted back up to the first channel row in that Favorites list, though for the very 1/2-hour time slot "column" which is still where it was.

If you don't use a FAVORITES list then this problem does not apply. Only when you've used Favorites and get into your subset Guide for your favorite channels (i.e. using the "heart" icon from the quick menu when you push the MENU button on the remote) is this bug a bug.

Anyway, it's been fixed for at least 9 months in newer versions of A28 already rolled out to Comcast users. But TWC here in LA has still not provided it to us.
post #2685 of 4764
Quote:
Originally Posted by JedFRaybould View Post

It is cool to have a DVR Cleanup and DVR History buttons now.

Well, as I understand it this DVR History accumulated data accumulates for a max of 28-days, after which it self-purges older data.

The purpose of this history is presumably to assist in the better scheduling (or, rather... non-scheduling) of "unwanted duplicate airings" of "series" recordings you've set. In theory and practice, the presence of "(new)" in the INFO for a show usually determines if it is first-run or a repeat, but the info sourced by TV Guide is not always so precise, and the previous Moto iGuide software was notorious for extra recordings that should never have been made when you had specifically asked for "first-run only". This was especially true when multiple airings of a show all said "(new)"!

So, in theory, that's what DVR History is designed to assist in... "tie breaking" in otherwise ambiguous situations. It actually works astonishingly well, as a general rule. In fact, as a rule the more accumulated history there is the more likely it is that upcoming series recordings will be scheduled precisely correct... only once per day or once per week. Re-airings are NOT scheduled (unless they need to be auto-scheduled, because you had an earlier 3-show conflict during its earlier first-run airing and your series-priority decided that the 3rd one down had to be re-scheduled for later).

[NOTE: turns out that Windows Media Center has essentially the identical "DVR History" functionality. It shows why the DVR software did or did not record something, or had a problem and shut off early, etc., but mostly it's for "tie breaking" in ambiguous situations for multiple airing sof series recordings.]

However DVR Cleanup is unbelievably poorly designed. You do not have a "erase ALL" checkbox or option, to get rid of everything. You can only delete ONE-AT-A-TIME, each one of which is itself a multi-click process. It is consequently extremely tedious and time-consuming, if you really did want to erase everything or say all accumulated data for a particular show or series, to address a particular situation.

So, what is that situation? Well every so often you might see the scheduling software simply stop scheduling the recording of a series. There's obviously no real reason for this, as the new episodes are even marked "new". The A28 software simply has a bug in it, and this is its manifestation.

Solution (100% successful, to the best of my knowledge) is to (a) delete the "series" recording, (b) purge all DVR History for previously recorded/watched/deleted episodes of that show, and (c) re-set the "series" recording.

Obviously, it would have been nice to have either (a) delete all, or (b) delete all for a particular show, in this "DVR Cleanup". No such luck. Never occurred to the iGuide software builders, apparently.
post #2686 of 4764
When I had a MOXI BMC9012, there were a few times when I saw a good show to record (via the the shows program info), the cable channel didn't air it. When I scrolled through the Recorded TV category the show wasn't there. In the Canceled & Deleted sub-category under the Search & Record category the non-recorded show was there. In parentheses it would simply say "not aired". In the iGuide (A28), would a non-aired show be recorded or automatically be put into the DVR History.

In the USER SETTINGS MENU now you can dim the front panel. To me it has the same dimness as the front panel of my Home Theater Reciever. On my Home Theater Reciever it is set at Dim 3 which is the dimness as it goes and on the DVR the front panel is just a hair brighter.
post #2687 of 4764
Quote:
Originally Posted by JedFRaybould View Post

... Interface/Port Status the USB port is ENABLED and ACTIVE...

Does this mean the USB port will support an external disk now?
post #2688 of 4764
Quote:
Originally Posted by Robert Duncan View Post


Does this mean the USB port will support an external disk now?

I am not totally 100% sure on this. I know in the Charter Welcome Book that in a future update that the eSATA port will be ENABLED/ACTIVE. During the update process I saw the green circle flash a couple times and I guess it recognizes it but not sure if anything will record to it.
post #2689 of 4764
I didn't have time to read this whole thread ... So if this is something previously discussed I apologize.
I just got a DCX3400 DVR today replacing a "plain" HD cable box. I have now lost 4 channels... VH1, MTV, CMT, and BET. I get the message: "ONE MOMENT PLEASE This channel should be available shortly. Ref code: S0200"
The channels all work on the other 3 HD boxes in the house, and worked Sunday for VH1 - I have not yet tried moving the DVR box to the other TVs to see if it is this connection.

My cable routing is like this:
Comes into the house to a 2 way splitter. Half goes directly upstairs to cable modem and router. Other half goes to a 3 way splitter for home theater, 2nd floor bedroom, and to another 2 way splitter for the living room and bedroom. The DVR is in the living room.

I got this message before when trying to watch comedy central in the HT before replacing the crappy cable lines - so the first thing I did was swap in a different line. That didn't help - so I put an amplifier between the outlet and the DVR. That also didn't help. I tried to trace the wire back to find the splitter in the wall (I didn't install it) - and found that pulling on the wire messed up the picture. I traced it back to a blank panel in the bedroom (after cutting 2 holes in the living room wall!) and found a very old splitter that I replaced with a better piece, and also replaced the in wall cable with a piece of nice thick RG6. This also did not help. Next thing I tried was putting this room on the "-3.5" leg of the 3 way splitter instead of the "-7" leg it was on. Also did not help.

Any other suggestions? Only thing I can think of is putting the amp right after the 3 way splitter, and trying to replace the run of cable from the splitter - which I would prefer not to do.

I will give Brighthouse a call tomorrow, but I expect you guys will be able to give me better answers!

Thanks in advance.

EDIT:
it seems there are quite a few other channels not working in the 300s ... Channels I have watched in this room before.
post #2690 of 4764
PTAaron,

I think there may be a reason why you don't have those 4 music channels yet is a channel mapping issue. Another reason why is that you have way too many splitters in your home. There should be a clean line going to the main two items the DVR and cable modem. Also everything should be split off the main line coming to you house.

This is my cabling:

Outside to Living Room (HD Box)
Outside to my mothers bedroom (regular TV)
Outside to my bedroom (DVR Box)
Outside to den like room (cable modem and telephone modem)
All of the lines are coming from the outside.
post #2691 of 4764
Thanks for the reply!
I'm not sure what I can do about the crazy amount of splitters right now... There is a different outlet in the living room that I could run a line to if I replace the 3 way splitter with a 4 way - not sure if that would help at all.
How did you manage to get a "fresh" line for each room? I'm slowly trying to fix what the previous owner of the house did... There are at least 3 other cable ends down where he had his main line running to... I have yet to figure out where they all go!
post #2692 of 4764
to identify the mystery coax you can buy a signalling device that sends a series of tones down the cables and lights small lights at the other ends, brown, red green, etc. I used it in a condo we used to live in to map out the runs. Here's the one I used http://www.web-tronics.com/coaxmapwitto.html
post #2693 of 4764
Quote:
Originally Posted by PTAaron View Post

I didn't have time to read this whole thread ... So if this is something previously discussed I apologize.
I just got a DCX3400 DVR today replacing a "plain" HD cable box. I have now lost 4 channels... VH1, MTV, CMT, and BET. I get the message: "ONE MOMENT PLEASE This channel should be available shortly. Ref code: S0200"
The channels all work on the other 3 HD boxes in the house, and worked Sunday for VH1 - I have not yet tried moving the DVR box to the other TVs to see if it is this connection.

My cable routing is like this:
Comes into the house to a 2 way splitter. Half goes directly upstairs to cable modem and router. Other half goes to a 3 way splitter for home theater, 2nd floor bedroom, and to another 2 way splitter for the living room and bedroom. The DVR is in the living room.

I got this message before when trying to watch comedy central in the HT before replacing the crappy cable lines - so the first thing I did was swap in a different line. That didn't help - so I put an amplifier between the outlet and the DVR. That also didn't help. I tried to trace the wire back to find the splitter in the wall (I didn't install it) - and found that pulling on the wire messed up the picture. I traced it back to a blank panel in the bedroom (after cutting 2 holes in the living room wall!) and found a very old splitter that I replaced with a better piece, and also replaced the in wall cable with a piece of nice thick RG6. This also did not help. Next thing I tried was putting this room on the "-3.5" leg of the 3 way splitter instead of the "-7" leg it was on. Also did not help.

Any other suggestions? Only thing I can think of is putting the amp right after the 3 way splitter, and trying to replace the run of cable from the splitter - which I would prefer not to do.

I will give Brighthouse a call tomorrow, but I expect you guys will be able to give me better answers!

Thanks in advance.

EDIT:
it seems there are quite a few other channels not working in the 300s ... Channels I have watched in this room before.

Did you have your cable provider send a signal to the new box? I know with Comcast, when you install a new DVR, they have to do something on their end in order for it to work properly.
post #2694 of 4764
Quote:
Originally Posted by PTAaron View Post

Thanks for the reply!
I'm not sure what I can do about the crazy amount of splitters right now... There is a different outlet in the living room that I could run a line to if I replace the 3 way splitter with a 4 way - not sure if that would help at all.
How did you manage to get a "fresh" line for each room? I'm slowly trying to fix what the previous owner of the house did... There are at least 3 other cable ends down where he had his main line running to... I have yet to figure out where they all go!

Not sure how but I just do. They all come from an enclosure from the outside. All what is in the enclosure is a 4-way or 5-way splitter. The only splitter that I have is to split the line from the wall to my cable and telephone modems. May be you should call or if you do have a local office to tell them that you'd like your home redone.
post #2695 of 4764
Quote:
Originally Posted by JedFRaybould View Post

The only splitter that I have is to split the line from the wall to my cable and telephone modems.

Just in passing...

I don't know what modems you have for Internet and phone, but I previously had a Motorola SB4100 "cable modem" (which I had purchased myself, theoretically to save a few bucks a month on my bill... which AT&T/Comcast/TWC ended up doing away with anyway by raising their prices) before I added phone service and went to the TWC Tripleplay.

At that time, TWC arrived with their own Arris telephony modem, and wanted to split my cable in order to support my cable modem (for Internet) and new telephony modem from the one cable.

I would have none of it. I didn't want a split. The Arris telephony modem also has the standard Internet connectors on it along with the new phone jacks. There's no reason why the Arris modem cannot double so as to provide both (a) telephony function, and (b) standard Internet function.

So I simply removed my Motorola modem and replaced it with their Arris modem. They did their phone work and connected the necessary phone lines (I had 2 lines originally) from my nearby wall jack to the two phone line connectors on the Arris modem, and also screwed on the existing coax to the Internet cable coax connector on the Arris modem (that coax providing both Internet and phone service to my home).

Unless there is some particular reason why you've got two separate modems in your house, I point out that at least the Arris modem (if not all telephony modems) can double as both phone and Internet entry points into your house. You don't need two separate modems and a splitter.
post #2696 of 4764
Quote:
Originally Posted by DSperber View Post

Just in passing...

I don't know what modems you have for Internet and phone, but I previously had a Motorola SB4100 "cable modem" (which I had purchased myself, theoretically to save a few bucks a month on my bill... which AT&T/Comcast/TWC ended up doing away with anyway by raising their prices) before I added phone service and went to the TWC Tripleplay.

At that time, TWC arrived with their own Arris telephony modem, and wanted to split my cable in order to support my cable modem (for Internet) and new telephony modem from the one cable.

I would have none of it. I didn't want a split. The Arris telephony modem also has the standard Internet connectors on it along with the new phone jacks. There's no reason why the Arris modem cannot double so as to provide both (a) telephony function, and (b) standard Internet function.

So I simply removed my Motorola modem and replaced it with their Arris modem. They did their phone work and connected the necessary phone lines (I had 2 lines originally) from my nearby wall jack to the two phone line connectors on the Arris modem, and also screwed on the existing coax to the Internet cable coax connector on the Arris modem (that coax providing both Internet and phone service to my home).

Unless there is some particular reason why you've got two separate modems in your house, I point out that at least the Arris modem (if not all telephony modems) can double as both phone and Internet entry points into your house. You don't need two separate modems and a splitter.

My cable modem is an Ambit and the telephone modem is the same brand as you have Arris. I notice that there is an Ethernet port on the Arris modem.

Getting back to the topic of this thread, does your DCX3400 have the updated firmware. Now I have my front panel dim as it possibly can go via the USER SETTINGS MENU.
post #2697 of 4764
Thanks for the additional thoughts everyone!
I'm not sure why, but this morning when I woke up all of the channels were now working. I'm going to go with the theory that all of my cable swapping helped - otherwise I am going to be mad that I cut 2 holes in my wall for no reason
Honestly - the splitter that was in there was very old and had no weight to it, and the cables were thin and had been kinked badly when stuffed into the box they were in, so it needed to be done anyway.

Thanks for the suggestions!
post #2698 of 4764
[quote=DSperber;19493067][quote=RFP2009;19492254]Well, this does seem impossible... unless there are "whole home" (M) models of the DCX boxes in your house.

If you're upstairs in the master bedroom pushing the remote for the DCX in that room, and your downstairs living room DCX is responding... well that's physically impossible for an IR remote (which I presume you have) to achieve, unless there are IR-relay/extender devices installed.

I do have a IR-relay/extender that I haven't been using. I had like a hybrid set up. I had LeapFrog and the remote extender, Before I did everything with my LeapFrog but since I had IR-emitter problems I combined the two to make it work. The extender had to face DVR directly and if somebody moved it slightly it didn't work.

I didn't unplug them but by dumb luck they were working. They didn't work when the TWC technician was here. I thought about it and it only happened at night. The extender faces a picture window which bounces the signal back to the DVR, In the master bedroom the Extender is behind me but apparently pointing it at the TV it bounces off the window and the extender catches it.

When technician arrived I told him about removing the connection between the 2 DVR's. He looked at me very strangely. I said the CSR said that was the problem and she sounded very convincing and she had that problem before.
post #2699 of 4764
Quote:
Originally Posted by JedFRaybould View Post


In the USER SETTINGS MENU now you can dim the front panel. To me it has the same dimness as the front panel of my Home Theater Reciever. On my Home Theater Reciever it is set at Dim 3 which is the dimness as it goes and on the DVR the front panel is just a hair brighter.

I am not sure what DCX you have or what software version, but nowhere in any of my settings is there a setting to change the brightness of the front display.
post #2700 of 4764
Quote:
Originally Posted by 4mula1 View Post


I am not sure what DCX you have or what software version, but nowhere in any of my settings is there a setting to change the brightness of the front display.

I think the difference here is the firmware version. He has 22.92. I have 22.65 and don't have those options either.
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