Pimp my ride :)

I have a '98 Honda Accord 4 dr with stock system (6 sp. double din CD/Radio).

I am planning on replacing all the units to get a better sound off of it and also, to be able to listen to music off my iPhone.

Here are the units that I have so far considered:

HU Alpine CDA-9886
rear sp. Infinity Kappa 693.7i
fr. Comp. Infinity Reference 6020cs
amp Alpine MRP-F550
amp sub Alpine MRP-M450
sub Not sure

I listen to all kinds of music (from rock to rap to international music). I do listen to more and more of KERA (PBS radio station) and one or two AM radio stations as well.

I went to BB and was totally disappointed with their availability as far as different models. I was surprised that CC don't carry Alpine, at least not the store that I went to. Car Toys was good, but was a tad shady as far as all the installation charges that were being added. They said that Alpine units were all iPhone friendly (BB said they were not) and upon testing, it did not seem like Alpine HU's were totally iPhone compatible (at least the ones that had cables hooked to them).

Now, I have zero experience with car stereo installation but I am willing to work with Crutchfield and get the hardware from them.

Compatibility with iPhone is a must (for that, I am willing to wait until they come up with such units). Per Alpine site, 9886 and 9874 are iPhone compatible but the person that I spoke at Crutchfield was confident that I would have to turn the phone to airplane mode in order to connect it (static free or not) to the Alpine HU units.

I don't want to rattle the car parked next to me, but I expect good quality clean sound off of my system. Please note that I am no audiophile and would like to spend within a $1K~$1.5k as far as total costs are concerned.

Thanks in advance

After reading Razel's reply on another similar thread, I am seriously considering NOT upgrading the rear speakers. If they are not important, why waste money on'em.

In that case, now I am confused if the Alpine MRP-F550 will be tough enough to power a (or a couple of) subs as well as the (front) component speakers. What would you suggest?

Goatwuss, I believe I did listen to a set of Focal components (@$270ish) and preferred the Infinity to them (again, I am no audiophile, just my ears at that time with that kind of music)....

It seems (from looking at Crutchfield videos) replacing the head unit should be rather simple. Installing components on door and on the dash (that's where the stock tweeter is at) and installing amplifier is not going to be such a piece of cake.

If I dump the two listed above, then I am looking @$800.00 plus all the nuts, bolts and cables and what not, assuming that I start opening up my car by myself.

Is it crucial to replace all (front one at this point) speaker cables? The gentleman at Car Toys insisted that I replace all speaker cables....

Please advise

Thanks to all of you for your time and replies

I was kind of giving up hope of getting any advice and stopped checking the thread for a while. Most likely the email notification isn't working either.

Tried to find a few car audio websites they were too hardcore for my goal

I will take a couple of days to read around a little bit more and then will bite the bullet

• rear speakers are out
• need to listen to a few more sets of components as well as subs
• find out more about sound dampening material

Thanks again and will get back to you guys

OK guys. First of all thanks a lot for your input

This is what I have installed so far:

• Alpine CDA-9886

• Boston Acoustics SX60

• JL Audio A Series A4300

• JL Audio CS112RG-W1v2

My iPhone is connected to the HU with the supplied Alpine KCE-422i and my iRiver Clix is also connected to the HU with using Alpine KCA-121B Auxiliary Input Adapter.

The sound is amazing

Omar from Lewisville did an outstanding job of installing the hardware once I drove my car to him that was literally in pieces (started to install the stuff on my own and at one time realized it was tad bit too much for me).

As soon as he fired up the system, he told me that there was not enough bass as 90w @4ohm was not at all sufficient to drive the 300w RMS sub.

Then when I call Crutchfield, they (including the salesman) say that that is a true statement. Now that I see my original post, I was all for running two amps, one for the fronts and one for the sub.

Also, even 18w RMS from the HU that is powering the rear OEM speakers is causing somewhat of distortion, so I am contemplating replacing the rear speakers with most likely JL Audio TR690-TXi or JL Audio VR690-CXi.

I did take the opportunity and add Dynamat 10435 Xtreme Door Kit to the front doors that house the components. I believe it makes a great difference!! Oh, Omar took the trouble of installing the tweeter close the woofer on the front as suggest by all you gurus out here

Now, my question to all of you: what amp to run the subs as I am having to run the subwoofer lever on HU to almost full to hear any bass at all. Granted, I am not playing it too loud as I am trying to gently break-in my 12" boom box.

Please note that my sub should run at 50~500w RMS per Crutchfield website and 300W RMS per JL Audio website:

• Alpine MRP-M450 approx. 220W RMS $150

• Alpine MRP-M500 approx. 300 W RMS $200

• Alpine MRP-M850 approx. 500W RMS $279

Please also note that all power ratings are based on 14.4v, 12v will result in lower output.

Will ask the 12volt gurus as well.

Please let me know what you guys think. As always, thanks a lot for your inputs