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Need a 75" door, or something... ???

post #1 of 8
1/14/08 at 3:18pm
Thread Starter 
Started framing yesterday and realized that there is only 79.5" under the main HVAC ducts where I need two doors to open into, one into the utility room and another into the bathroom. By the time I frame it, floor it, and hang drywall, I have 5" too little. Here are the only options I can think of:

1. Try and find a 75" door and have it open into the room like usual. Problems with that are that it'll look kinda stupid b/c the exterior of that wall is 10' tall, and how in the heck do you make a 75" door???

2. pay an HVAC person $$$ to flatten the system out by 5" to have a normal 80" door swing under it. This would be really expensive I'm sure, and I honestly just don't know how they could do it given the layout of the basement.

3. use 80" doors that open out into the room. The problem with this is that I'm not sure if this meets code, and I'm concerned about having an 80" door opening into a ceiling that's only 75" tall. Hello head bump!

Anyone offer insight on today's problem???
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post #2 of 8
1/14/08 at 4:36pm
I have the same problem, essentially. When I walk into my HT area (a hallway - HT on right, bathroom on left) the ceiling is only 75" due to ductwork. The new bathroom on the left needs a door. Do I cut down a door to 75" (or a little less) or make the bathroom bigger to move the entrance away from the ductwork? I'm pretty sure that I'm moving the door to make it full height.

I guess there is no way for you to redesign where the door goes? Having said that, you can make a 75" door fairly easily. Just cut 2.5" off the top and bottom of the door. Sometime, there may be a filler piece that you will have to glue back in. Other than that, I don't know of another, financially feasible, solution.
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post #3 of 8
1/14/08 at 4:59pm
I cut down my prehung steel door to fit under a support beam (76") . You may even be able to order a custom door (but expect to pay a premium).

I also did the HVAC professional sheet metal redesign for a smaller soffit profile, but that was about making a small room work better, then door clearance issues. The new improved soffit is at the 80.5" mark. It was money well spent in what it did for the space, but I'd have never spend that kind of money to have an 80" door.
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post #4 of 8
1/14/08 at 5:12pm
I had the same problem. I wanted my doors to look right, so I built the frame higher than the soffit. Lets see if these pics work.



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If you do decide to cut the doors down and you are using perhung hollow core slab doors. Take it all off the bottom. As long as the bottom hinge is high enough. Remove the outer skin from the wood insert, reglue and slide it back up. You can lay it flat with some weight on it.
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post #5 of 8
1/14/08 at 5:30pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rinkledorf View Post

If you do decide to cut the doors down and you are using perhung hollow core slab doors. Take it all off the bottom. As long as the bottom hinge is high enough. Remove the outer skin from the wood insert, reglue and slide it back up. You can lay it flat with some weight on it.

I just wanted to echo what Rinkledorf said about cutting material off from the bottom of the door and frame. When cutting off the bottom of the door use masking tape all the way around the door where the cut will be made. This will keep the door from splintering and getting chipped up from the saw blade. If you cut 1.5" or more off the bottom go ahead and cut it then you can use whatever tools needed to get the solid piece out that was located in the door bottom. Then you will want to glue it back into the door and held with some clamps and let it dry. If cutting less than an 1.5" you will want to get the solid bottom piece out first before cutting.


Cheers,
JJ
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post #6 of 8
1/14/08 at 7:34pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rinkledorf View Post

I had the same problem. I wanted my doors to look right, so I built the frame higher than the soffit. Lets see if these pics work.



[IMG][/IMG]



[IMG][/IMG]

If you do decide to cut the doors down and you are using perhung hollow core slab doors. Take it all off the bottom. As long as the bottom hinge is high enough. Remove the outer skin from the wood insert, reglue and slide it back up. You can lay it flat with some weight on it.

Nice finish work and a great way to do this I think!
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post #7 of 8
1/14/08 at 8:35pm
cut em down if needed.
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post #8 of 8
1/15/08 at 8:04am
Thread Starter 
Thanks for the input guys.

The HVAC guy is coming today today to quote me on relocating it all. I'm guessing it'll be between $500 and $1000 to do this. The other thing I'm not crazy about is the fact that right now I'll have no bulkheads in my main HT/Living space. The only way to get the ducts out of the bathroom is to put them out into this space, thus creating lots of angles in my ceiling.

I'll be renting this out as an apartment before I reclaim it for my own use so I think a 76" bathroom ceiling height will be a liability... With the duct work out, it'll be about 85" and will allow me to carry the slate flooring in there and not have to go to vinyl to save space.

Is it worth the money???
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