Do you want the Actual Inlet & Outlet used in the PowerBridge? IF SO, HERE YOU GO! - Page 2

I don't know if it was mentioned, but Monoprice also has their version of this and it also includes an LV outlet as well:

http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...seq=1&format=2

I don't remember the Powerbridge being so cheap before. That's not a bad price, actually, now.

You can get an extension cord at any store. Any local hardware store would have a 6' extension cord. Here is one found by a guick search of HD's website, although I recently bought a similar extension cord for the freezer at the local Fleet Farm for $4.

http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/...3+90101+500848

On the other hand, if you have one of those spare computer cords (who doesn't,) you can get a $3 inlet from Home Depot or some place, cut the computer plug off the end and wire the regular inlet plug in instead.

http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/...egoryID=502102

-Suntan

Maybe people want a different configuration than what Powerbridge offers?

In my case, I want a double-gang solution, with dual outlet and single inlet, similar to this, except with a decora cutout on the left side:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...8#post13790668

I'd even settle for a single-gang solution with both inlet and outlet. I suppose one of their "Total Solution" kits would work (put one above the other), except in that case (since the kit wastes a lot of real-estate) I want a dual-hdmi plus speaker connectors instead of component.

So no, the Powerbridge won't work for me, no matter how cheap it is.

Btw, if anyone has managed to find a 2-gang wallplate with decora + blank, let me know. I think the Levitron 84087-40 may work, except it's SS only. I also have found conflicting info on whether it's got a decora or duplex cutout.

Don't know what color you're looking for, but this site looks like they have all the basics (white, almond, brown, black) for that type of wallplate:

http://www.onestopbuy.com/80708-E-9253.asp

Thanks, but that's the wall plate I already have. Unfortunately, the mounting holes on the left don't quite line up with the mounting holes for the inlet. I'll probably have to do something similar to this, which isn't a big deal. I just would've preferred nothing on the left side, or at least have the holes match the ones on the right.

It is funny that people think its OK to modify electrical parts. When you do, you VOID ALL listing intended use by it's manufacturer and any field inspector will not likely pass it. Code is very clear as to not to make modifications that change the UL listing. Field inspectors can decide if to accept or not, but don't expect it. Consider if you sell the house, the home inspector may hold up the sale if there are things that do not meet code or listing. Is it worth it to save $10-20 dollars? really?

If you want DECORA insert next to the outlet/inlet, doing it the way you showed on a blank wall plate and drilling it out is a VERY BAD idea in my opinion.

If you look on the Powerbridge website you'll see they make a kit that has DECORA insert opening. It shows it with a scoop and with other decora HDMI inserts. Those are removable and will fit ANY decora insert you want to screw in on the back. The AVS price for it is dirt cheap for $54 bucks.

It seems so crazy that anyone would go through all the hassle to make their own and risk a possible problem down the road. EVEN though you want to have the pride of DIY. Some things are better NOT as a DIY. Those parts, specifically the INLETS are NOT intended to be attached to a wall plate by modification to a wall plate. read the FAQ go down the page a little.

Geez...

Would everyone else that feels like they need to constantly nanny the f**k out of all of us just get it out now. Either get it out now or just shut the yapper and acknowledge that we are all adults here.

Fact, 9 out of 10 city inspectors are going to start giving you some very inquiring questions as soon as they see 3 prongs sticking out the side of your wall. Regardless if you have a fancy "Powerbridge" advertisement pamphlet to show him or not.

And let's be real here, there is not a single house built that would completely pass a home inspection if the inspector really went over it with a fine tooth comb.

Look, everyone here is a big boy and can decide for themselves what they want to buy and/or install in their houses. We don't need the mother harpies constantly hovering over us telling us that we are cheap and reckless.

-Suntan

While the above is quite true, I really don't see any safety issue in making a custom plate from a blank plate PROVIDED IT'S A METAL PLATE. Using a plastic plate is dangerous. The inlet is supported to the plate and not the outlet box. The force needed to insert and remove the plug will break the plate in time and risk shorting out or coming into contact with the exposed inlet.

Even though it's still not UL approved, a metal plate holding an inlet is still safe IMO.

Best option is a 4in surface switch plate and enlarge the switch hole. These however don't flush mount to the wall. These are typically 16ga metal.

I would agree you are "acting" very much like an adult here.


I forgot, isn't this a PUBLIC forum used to comment and provide information and discuss topics?

OR

Is this THE SUNTAN FORUM and we all should get out or shut up?

Anyone else confused as to who runs the rules here? If it is SUNTAN, my bad, I'll just shut up and leave, because I wish not to be YAPPED at for posting a valuable comment to others.

Sorry to have upset your apple-cart SUNTAN, really.

Glimmie, my post was not to "nag" it is based on TRUE facts, period. There is no "gray" area as to making modifications to a LISTED component, period, makes no difference if it's metal or titanium.

Sure these may all work fine, the point is people need to make a decision based on facts and not someone who did it and can't back up the facts it will be code compliant, as I've read throughout this thread, it's simply NOT CODE COMPLIANT to make modifications.

IF,,,, IF you make one of these and IF,,, IF you have a problem and IF you have some type of an inspection, you MAY have a PROBLEM. Yes, it's all about the IF!!! I get it!!!

It's very simple, use FACTS to make your own decision as to making modifications to an electrical listed device.

Is it really worth maybe saving $10 bucks, REALLY?

I continue to be amazed what some folks do to save money. Kind of like the guy who drives an extra 10 miles across town to "save" .10 cents on a gallon of gas for a 20 gallon tank, he saved $2.00 overall but that 20 miles round trip cost about $3.00! Think about it

You do make a good point that it isn't to code. However, the way you delivered your message was very lacking in tact. When I first read it, I thought "What a sanctimonious @ss!" Reading it a few more times, I realized that you didn't mean to come off that way, but unfortunately, that's the tone your post conveys. I'm not surprised at the response you got.

Also, anytime I hear things like "you can't do that because...", I always have to ask, "Where does it say that?"

Not saying you're wrong. I'd just like to read it for myself. And the Powerbridge site doesn't count.


Again, the tone of your post is not that of someone trying to be helpful. It's that of someone wanting to point out that everyone else is an idiot.

And as I said before, Powerbridge does not offer what I'm looking for, at any price! If they offered a 2-gang dual outlet + inlet solution, I would've jumped all over it. Assuming, of course, that the wall plate is something I can swap out with something that matches my existing wall plates. So no, it really has nothing to do with cost, and everything to do with not offering what I want.

goldenbear,

I appreciate your view on my tone, didn't realize I had a tone in my writing, now I do and I'll try to be aware of it. I just call like I see it I guess, should I try posting in smaller font? LOL

Did I say "you can't do it"? You can do anything you want, just be aware of what facts are. My posting is intended to point out a factual view compared to what this entire thread is recommending, which is not automatically an OK thing to do, just because someone decided to modify it and post pictures does not make it ok to do, right?

Does anyone else find it absurd, a Powerbridge exists to run electrical power up the wall to meet CODE so you don't run an extension cord in the wall which if you don't care about CODE COMPLIANCY, then just run a cord in the wall and spend nothing and save 100%!

I think we all agree it is not CODE or recommended to run a cord in the wall, so tell me why it's OK to recommend to others to make modifications that also does not meet CODE? (I'm trying real hard not to make a bad tone her, just not sure if I'm successful)

But what is really FUNNY here is a full thread with over 9000 views showing how to NOT do something to CODE. ??? Help me out here, does this make sense; a thread telling you to make a short cut to make it "appear" to be CODE compliant and it is NOT OK to modify a listed component and expect it to still meet code and "trust" what your being told and seeing is OK.

I'm only posting for those who are reading this and wanting to be CODE, but you have to realize folks, the DIY idea here does not meet code.

Ok, I'll try to get off my "soap-box", just trying to point out some other ideas that are not stated here in this "false" idea thread. Sorry for my tone.

Actually an extension cord that was run into an electrical box and then twister nut connected to the romex inside the box passed inspection. See BritinVA thread.

He cut a hole in the cover plate added a little fitting to dress it up and made out just fine.

Get over yourself already.

You have posted nothing new since your first post in which you inferred that we were all being cheap by trying to save just a few bucks while doing things "we weren't supposed to do." A couple of people, including myself, posted back stating that it wasn't about money but about the power bridge not being configured for what we want. You simply ignored those comments and posted a second post going on about how you thought we were cheap and how your powerbridge website proves beyond a shadow of a doubt that we are all going to go straight to jail after having our children burned as they sleep in their beds.

Again, you've offered nothing new. You've had a snarky attitude from your first post, and you continue to ignore people's responses (I also see you never acknowledged the link I provided to the Leviton inlet and cover plate combo that I posted in the post directly before your OP, no need to modify anything on that one.) Don't play dumb to try and come off as just the "Good Samaritan" here to enlighten all of us. The power bridge is a couple of junction boxes and a couple of terminals, its not the Second Coming you seem to fixate on day and night.

Unless you have something more useful to add to the discussion than your repetitive passive aggressive bit, why don't you just move along and go hassle those guys over there talking about building their own DIY projector mounts that obviously don't measure up to your structural satisfaction.

-Suntan

suntan,

we all wish we could be as galant as you.

what do you have to add to this thread except rail out against me, you're a piece of work!


oops my tone slipped,,, again!

You mean other than a link to an inlet junction box that completely eliminates your only argument? Which I posted prior to any of your little mother-knows-best outbursts?

Here it is again since you seem to continue to ignore when people call you on your incorrect proclamations.

http://www.amazon.com/Leviton-Motor-...C9ZT88Y0SJDXQK

Anyway, I'm done with this. If you have something that is actually on topic to discuss, I'd be up for that. If you want to just continue telling us all we are bad people for not buying your power bridge, I've got better things to do.

-Suntan

All this talk about code compliance. Keep in mind that technically, in nearly all jurisdictions the Powerbridge solution must be inspected due to the installation of the romex in the wall that is required. Additionally, some jurisdictions may even require you to have the work done by a licensed electrician (luckily here that is not the case). So, unless everyone pulls a permit and has an inspection done, they are probably just as out of compliance as someone who made their own.

As far as UL listings go, there is no way the complete Powerbridge silution has a UL approval because of the field installation. Sure, each piece can be listed but the system is no more listed than saying your house is UL listed because the panels and the outlets are. Actually, I would be interested in seeing their UL stickers and number for hte approval of the system as mentioned on their FAQ.

Read my post again. I acknowledged ANY modification to a listed product is a code violation. I further acknowldged that my metal plate suggestion was still not code compliant but still safe IMO.

The other recent posters are right. You seem to be on a crusade to force coode compliance here. It's not gonna happen. People will do what they want in their own homes. Therefor I always try to point out safer alternatives where applicable.

And furthermore any inspector has latitude to approve field modifications if they are done in a safe professional manner. The NEC is ONLY a guide. The final determination of legal vs illegal work resides with the local jurastiction.

Nice job but I would have used a METAL plate

Actually, I was just going to post this very point.

The NEC Guidebook is a GUIDE, not law. States, counties, cities, towns, etc. each post their own codes. For instance, in some cities everything has to be run in conduit (Chicago, for instance, if I remember correctly).

If an inspector passes it, then you are fine....but it doesn't necessarily mean that it is either the best way or even the safest way to do something.

Keep in mind that inspectors will sign off on construction with code deficiencies for a number of reasons. Probably a few that are criminal but most often there is often just so much to look at and things get overlooked.

Oh, yeah, you would not beleive the thigns I have run across in commercial work that were just overlooked when the inspections were done. It would make you really wonder why there are not more fires in office buildings.

Yeah, I keep meaning to replace it with a metal plate.........but as its in a closet and poses no tripping hazard it's not been a high priority.


I KNOW my work is far superior to what the builders electrician did. I have pretty much replaced every receptacle in the house - glad I did not just because of the builders grade crap receptacles but also because of the poor job wiring them.

Just because something is inspected does not mean its safe. My inspector opened one receptacle and on light switch and that was it. I guess if he saw any cause for concern he would have been more thorough.

Yeah, thing aren't any better in residential construction. The more I think about it, I should have paid for a thorough inspection before buying my condo. I'm not talking about the standard "turn on the light switches" so-called inspection (that I had to pay for anyway). I'm talking about taking every wallplate off, drilling holes to see the in-wall wiring, etc.

Oh well, what's done is done. That's what happens when you buy a place while working 60-90 hours/week. You just can't cover every base yourself. I'm slowly going through and fixing things as I have time.

There's a new option from Midlite if you want more color choices and single-gang installation. It's about on par with the PowerBridge in pricing, maybe a bit more expensive depending on your configuration. UL listed and no modification required.

Décor Recessed Receptacle and Power Inlet Kit

Kit:


Separates:




I went with 2 black inlets and a single black recessed outlet for my setup.

Both the inlets will go in my equipment room, with 1 inlet wired to 2 standard outlets behind my screen wall for the subs and the other inlet wired to the black recessed outlet at the projector location.

I also bought one of these in black for the low voltage projector wiring:


Though, I'm thinking maybe I should have gotten one of these:


Oh well...

I got mine from MCM. They're just starting to stock these, so they were back-ordered for a few weeks, but I finally got everything today. They seem really well built. I can post pics if people are interested.

-John

Keep in mind that the UL rating they are citing is only for the actual outlet box. It is not a compete end to end system that is approved and once the install is done with romex in between it will need to be inspected if your local jurisdiction requires that. That is if you are worried about being completely legal.

Good point, it's going to be inspected along with the rest of the basement wiring.

-John

OMG, I hate you so much!!!

I'm about 70% finished with my DYI inlet, and literally the evening I get home with the last of the parts, I see your post!

Oh well, the Midlite inlet is going to save me a lot of frustration trying to cut the hole just right, lining everything up, putting together a makeshift nutplate, etc. From the pictures, it looks like it'll fit a standard Decora wallplate, which is exactly what I was looking for, so I went ahead and ordered one. I needed a bunch of keystone decora plates/connectors and other stuff anyway, and MCM is having a nice sale right now.

Thanks for the heads-up on this. Too bad I didn't know about it a couple of months ago when I started ordering the parts, but such is life.

If you're interested in a Leviton option:

http://www.buylevitoninstead.com/Pass-Seymour-5278-SS.htm

What is the benefit of using a power bridge?