Do you want the Actual Inlet & Outlet used in the PowerBridge? IF SO, HERE YOU GO! - Page 3

In a flat screen application you can recess the outlet for a more flush installation. In a projector application you can run the inlet to your AV rack area and have your projector hooked to a UPS and/or power conditioner.

Do people run a whole house surge instead? Is there a reason people run a UPS to their projector? Trying to decide how I am going to do it.

There is a school of thought that if you have a power failure the ability to run the fan and properly cool the bulb compartment has some advantages in avoiding the excessive build up of residual heat that would occur if the power was simply cut. It is not so much the preservation of bulb life but rather the protecting of everything around the bulb (Think $$) others will say poppycock they have had outages and their projectors were none the worse for the experience. Pick your poison. For $99 I hooked my projector circuit to a UPS and have used it twice in 5 years to cool the projector. I also experience a power outage at least once a year.

To those thinking it is unnecessary you need to ask yourself if nothing is damaged if you cut the power then why do the Manufacturer's make sure the fan runs for a cool down after you turn off the projector.

Ever the DIY'er, I "rolled my own" powerbridge type solution, for much cheaper!

First, I bought one of these: Leviton 4937 Straight Blade Receptacle

Some light machining to remove the hinged door and several coats of spray enamel later and I had this:



Alt View Rear View

As a bonus, this inlet has a metal faceplate and is EXTREMELY heavy-duty in build (it's intended as a power inlet for recreational vehicles). It also has a weather gasket on it, so it makes a nice seal with the wall (less drafts).

The closet and room where my AV rack is located is painted a deep chocolate brown and has black outlet boxes.



My inlet is not shown here, but is on the front-left wall (off screen) in this photo.

Since I was mounting this behind my plasma, I wanted a recessed box. I also needed to connect a bunch of signal cables. Best solution? Carlon SC300PRB 3-gang recessed dual voltage box.



I knew I was going to be feeding the "inlet" from my APC H15 power conditioner, but one can never be TOO careful with a $3500 plasma. So I bought one of these to put in the Carlon behind the display.



This is what it looked like all together:



So, now I have a "powerbridge" system that not only looks awesome, but has more capabilities and safety for my equipment.

Nice. I used a similar box for my install. It does look nice and finished.

Sorry to revive an old thread but I thought I would just pose my question here instead of starting a new thread.

A couple years ago when I was installing wiring for my new projector setup, my electrician installed a powerbridge type solution so I could provide AVS/battery backup protection to the projector. He installed a regular outlet in the ceiling right next to where my projector was being ceiling mounted and installed an inlet near my a/v console which sat under my screen.
I'm now in the process of installing a new a/v rack which will be recessed into the screen wall to the right of the screen. (The area behind the screen wall is accessible and unfinished)
So my question is what do I do with the inlet that is under the screen wall? I don't want to run extension cord from that back behind the wall to plug into my AVR/UPS (which is where it will be newly located once the rack is finished). Is it possible to relocate the inlet to an area in the unfinished room and then just get a blank plate to cover up the hole in the wall where the inlet was? I guess this is the most efficient way but I wanted to make sure I'm not missing something. Is it more complex than what I'm making it out to be?
Help please.

just move the inlet, connect the Romex to either the projector outlet direct or connect to the old line in the old electrical box and cover with a blank plate. Any box with the connections must be accessible by code.

If you can pull the Romex to the projector outlet you can bury the old box in the wall assuming the wire is disconnected.

So if I move the inlet box, let's say I just flip it around so it's facing the unfinished room where my components will be, I could do that and just put a blank plate on the other side that will face the viewers (which is under the screen)?

If you flip it and it is accessible on the new side you can patch the drywall on the old side and forget about it.

Great BUMP, thread filled with info.

I went with MIDLITE 4642-W

http://www.amazon.com/MIDLITE-4642-W...A6/ref=lh_ni_t


Thanks.