or Connect
AVS › AVS Forum › Display Devices › Plasma Flat Panel Displays › Panny PZ700U/750U Calibration Settings & Black Level Poll (Light or Dark?)
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

Panny PZ700U/750U Calibration Settings & Black Level Poll (Light or Dark?) - Page 5

post #121 of 280
Quote:
Originally Posted by Maverickster2 View Post

Custom is input-specific. So your "Custom" settings for HDMI1 and HDMI2 are different from one another. While "Standard" is across all inputs.

--Mav

I understand that part. I was just wondering what makes the picture quality superior (to some people) using Custom as opposed to Standard.
post #122 of 280
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by lanslide View Post

I understand that part. I was just wondering what makes the picture quality superior (to some people) using Custom as opposed to Standard.

That I don't know. I thought they were identical in that regard.

--Mav
post #123 of 280
Quote:
Originally Posted by lanslide View Post

I understand that part. I was just wondering what makes the picture quality superior (to some people) using Custom as opposed to Standard.

Their imagination...it is a powerful thing.
post #124 of 280
Anyone have settings for direct coaxial input for both SD and HD combined viewing?
post #125 of 280
My settings 42-PZ700U

Custon
Pic +24
Br -6
Color -2
Tint -2
Sharp -15
Color Temp. Normal
Color Mgtmt. Off
"Others" All Off
Black Level Dark
HD Size 1 or 2
post #126 of 280
You guys brought tears to my eyes after wading through the owners thread and not finding one useable piece of information.

I know you guys want to stay focussed on the permanent settings but would have been nice if you could have answered the previous question about settings during the break in period. Just once would be enough for me .

Anyway what is the most important setting to keep lowered during break in? I assume its brightness but any suggestions? Thanks again guys for giving me the settings for the future, T minus 100 hours and counting.
post #127 of 280
Quote:
Originally Posted by tufferd View Post

You guys brought tears to my eyes after wading through the owners thread and not finding one useable piece of information.

I know you guys want to stay focussed on the permanent settings but would have been nice if you could have answered the previous question about settings during the break in period. Just once would be enough for me .

Anyway what is the most important setting to keep lowered during break in? I assume its brightness but any suggestions? Thanks again guys for giving me the settings for the future, T minus 100 hours and counting.

Contast and overal brightness I think.
post #128 of 280
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by tufferd View Post

You guys brought tears to my eyes after wading through the owners thread and not finding one useable piece of information.

I know you guys want to stay focussed on the permanent settings but would have been nice if you could have answered the previous question about settings during the break in period. Just once would be enough for me .

Anyway what is the most important setting to keep lowered during break in? I assume its brightness but any suggestions? Thanks again guys for giving me the settings for the future, T minus 100 hours and counting.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=983302
post #129 of 280
I would really consider getting your sets ISF calibrated. I just had mine done and we are all WAY off 65K! Look at my other threads for before and after for ISF calibration. I would take screen shots, but it wouldn't mean a thing because your computer displays aren't ISF calibrated. SUCH A HUGE DIFFERENCE! Skin tones are spot on now and the shadow detail is amazing!
post #130 of 280
Thread Starter 
Still considering ISF calibration; although I'm quite happy with the current configuration, and according to several professional reports Standard/Custom and Warm is extremely close to 65K (some have it within 20); that coupled with relatively successful calibration using the DVE disk, and a remarkably good looking result leaves me inclined to not have it done. I'm certain that there are improvements to be had through ISF calibration, but I'm pretty happy with what I've got now.

--Mav
post #131 of 280
i was wondering when you run the dve disk, do you have to go into the service menu?
There are no isf calibrators in taiwan, so i guess im out of luck on the isf calibration part
post #132 of 280
Quote:
Originally Posted by oliveryochest View Post

i was wondering when you run the dve disk, do you have to go into the service menu?
There are no isf calibrators in taiwan, so i guess im out of luck on the isf calibration part

Although I'm still waiting on the BD DVE due out end of next month, my understanding is the only person that should ideally go into the service menu is a "service tech". The DVE and Avia disks work with the existing user menus only, although you certainly could go into the service menu if you choose.

There is an ISF calibrator listed in Taiwan although don't know if info is current.

Imaging Science Inc.
5F., No.30, Alley 1, Lane 421, Nanshan Rd
Zhonghe City
Taipei
Taiwan
23565
[886] 939 741299
http://www.imagingscience.com.tw
post #133 of 280
Has anyone had any experience whith this calibartions disk: Monster/ISF HDTV Calibration Wizard DVD. The ISF caught my eye. And if so was it how does it compare to Avia and DVE? What is everyones thoughts on the Bluray DVE disk?

I'm out of the 100 hour break in thanks the break in disk and its full steam ahead gettng my 50pe700u tweaked.
post #134 of 280
The monster disk is fine, and makes setting contrast easier than many other disks. However, it is tedious to use and kind of talks down to you. If you have the time and inclination to learn more before you try it, I would suggest GetGray. It really is fairly easy to use, you just need to read the directions and get your mind around video vs PC levels for IRE.
post #135 of 280
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ericthemidget View Post

The monster disk is fine, and makes setting contrast easier than many other disks. However, it is tedious to use and kind of talks down to you. If you have the time and inclination to learn more before you try it, I would suggest GetGray. It really is fairly easy to use, you just need to read the directions and get your mind around video vs PC levels for IRE.

Thanks for the info I'll check it out. Thought I may try something else since everyone has been using Avia and DVE with good results. I have pretty much stuck with the thread avg and it looks pretty good but, like most everyone else I'm looking for DIY perfection.
post #136 of 280
Quote:
Originally Posted by kagolu View Post

What is everyones thoughts on the Bluray DVE disk?

It's not due out until the end of March.
post #137 of 280
[quote=jdsmoothie;13245072]Although I'm still waiting on the BD DVE due out end of next month, my understanding is the only person that should ideally go into the service menu is a "service tech". The DVE and Avia disks work with the existing user menus only, although you certainly could go into the service menu if you choose.

There is an ISF calibrator listed in Taiwan although don't know if info is current.

Imaging Science Inc.
5F., No.30, Alley 1, Lane 421, Nanshan Rd
Zhonghe City
Taipei
Taiwan
23565
[886] 939 741299


I called them and they said they don't do calibrations. He said it would not be worth it for him to calibrate my set because the equipment he uses is not really up to date. They actually give classes on how to calibrate though
post #138 of 280
Quote:
Originally Posted by oliveryochest View Post

They actually give classes on how to calibrate though

That's great! You'll get the extra training to assist you in using a self calibration disk. I'm sure they'll be able to give some advice as to which is the best self calibration disk to use as well.
post #139 of 280
I wish I could change my vote...I have been a 'Dark Level-Light' kinda guy since I got the tv two months ago. In recent days I've discovered that switching to 'Dark' is the single most significant improvement I've made in calibrating. I had to go back and recalibrate using a combination of DVE and the CNET settings but WOW what a difference.
post #140 of 280
Quote:
Originally Posted by rotohead View Post

I wish I could change my vote...I have been a 'Dark Level-Light' kinda guy since I got the tv two months ago. In recent days I've discovered that switching to 'Dark' is the single most significant improvement I've made in calibrating. I had to got back and recalibrate using a combination of DVE and the CNET settings but WOW what a difference.

So, if you don't mind sharing, what are your specific Picture Setting w/ Black Level @ Dark?

I'm all about WOW.

Thanks.
post #141 of 280
Quote:
Originally Posted by BMAN1212 View Post

So, if you don't mind sharing, what are your specific Picture Setting w/ Black Level @ Dark?

I'm all about WOW.

Thanks.

Always into sharing...
I have the 58pz750U in a moderately light viewing enviornment. It's set up with two backlights from here.

I also am using component for now until I can run some long HDMI cables.
So, with that said, here are my settings...

Picture mode - Custom
Picture - +26
Brightness - +20
Color - -4
Tint - -2
Sharpness - -10 (don't think it makes much difference where you set it)
Color temp - still trying to decide between Normal and Warm
Color mgmt - Off
CATS - Off

Pro setting section in the 750U model

Normal - No
Panel Bright - High
Contour emph - Off
Gamma adjust - Full 1
Blk ext - 0
W/B high R - -11
W/B high B - -9
W/B low R - +2
W/B low B - +4
AGC - Off

Other Adjustments

Video NR - Off
3D Y'C filter -grayed out
Color matrix -grayed out
Block NR -Off
Mosquito NR -Off
Black level -Dark
3:2 pulldown - On
HD size -1 or 2 depending on source


Hope this helps.....I sure like the way mine is looking lately. The blacks look great and the skin tones are about spot on. I've found that this is the best compromise for all my sources, Directv HR21, Directv HR10 (for the OTA feeds), blu-ray, HD-DVD and a QAM cable feed for backup.
Chuck
post #142 of 280
Quote:
Originally Posted by tufferd View Post

You guys brought tears to my eyes after wading through the owners thread and not finding one useable piece of information.

I know you guys want to stay focussed on the permanent settings but would have been nice if you could have answered the previous question about settings during the break in period. Just once would be enough for me .

Anyway what is the most important setting to keep lowered during break in? I assume its brightness but any suggestions? Thanks again guys for giving me the settings for the future, T minus 100 hours and counting.

When I did the breakin last month, I used Picture set at 10 and Brightness set at 0. Those are the main things, keep everything else on zero as well. I mainly used Custom mode during breakin, because Cinema is darker overall to begin with so I didn't go there then. Standard is OK to use, but personally I would avoid the Vivid mode during breakin. Anyhow, my plasma is fine today no IR or burn.
post #143 of 280
Quote:
Originally Posted by tufferd View Post

You guys brought tears to my eyes after wading through the owners thread and not finding one useable piece of information.

I know you guys want to stay focussed on the permanent settings but would have been nice if you could have answered the previous question about settings during the break in period. Just once would be enough for me.

Were you looking at the Panasonic 42PZ700, 50PZ700, etc. owner's thread? Your question has been asked and answered at least 50 times in the owner's thread over the past 10 months to wit .. PICTURE - 0; BRIGHTNESS - 0; No VIVID mode.
post #144 of 280
Quote:
Originally Posted by Maverickster2 View Post

I adjusted the Color Temp to "Warm" per the almost universal sentiment that this is closest to 6500K. It took a few days to get used to the adjustment from "Normal" but once I did, it really does provide the most "accurate" color; it's the only way to get skin tones right. "Normal" now looks "bluish".

As an old guy (probably a geezer), I recall from the film camera days that American film (Kodak) had a much warmer color balance than Japanese film (Fuji). Both cultures regarded their films temperature as the more normal of the two. In all other respects, both films were excellent. Americans seem to prefer a yellow / red balance, while Japanese seem to prefer a blue balance.

I personally preferred to use Kodachrome ASA 25 slide film, because it was the warmest of the warm. Absolutely beautiful colors. "Mama, don't take my Kodachrome away" - Paul Simon

This is a great thread. I wish it had been here when I was setting up my TH-50PZ700U. I will be re-setting it up, today. Thanks!

Tim
post #145 of 280
Hey guys,

I have the TH-50PZ700U, but it won't be set up until next week.

It will be in my basement where there is little to no light, and if I want I can make the room pitch black.

What would be the best calibration settings for my situation?
post #146 of 280
Quote:
Originally Posted by ratcheer View Post


This is a great thread. I wish it had been here when I was setting up my TH-50PZ700U. I will be re-setting it up, today. Thanks!

Tim

I set mine to the posted CNET settings for the PZ700U. Then, I switched back and forth a couple of times between Black=Light and Black=Dark. IMHO, it was no contest and I settled on the Dark setting.

After all that, I watched the Planet Earth Blu-ray disk for a good while. These settings are awesome! Thanks again to everyone for this thread.

Tim
post #147 of 280
I think this thread is more accurately about two significant, 'one way or the other' settings with this display.
Color temp - normal or warm
Dark level - light or dark
in my view that is where calibration should start, am I wrong?
everything flows off those two settings.
I'm very happy being a WARM and DARK guy...

p.s. I know there is a 'cool' setting for color temp...is there anyone using that I'd like to know too...
post #148 of 280
Quote:
Originally Posted by rotohead View Post

I think this thread is more accurately about two significant, 'one way or the other' settings with this display.
Color temp - normal or warm
Dark level - light or dark
in my view that is where calibration should start, am I wrong?
everything flows off those two settings.
I'm very happy being a WARM and DARK guy...

p.s. I know there is a 'cool' setting for color temp...is there anyone using that I'd like to know too...

Well, this thread is about 700U calibration...of which, Black Level and Temperature Mode are impactful...as are the various other picture settings...notably,there is a strong connecton between the Picture Setting and the Brightness Setting - more so influenced and impacted by choice of Black Level versus Temp. Mode. (more an aesthetic).

As for my experience, it goes like this...

Originally, I began dating Normal Temp. then I flirted with Warm Temp...now I am married to Warm Temp...honestly, for the past month+ I have watched most everything in Warm...when I go back to Normal, it looks off...to my eyes, Warm is the clear winner if you are looking for the most natural true-to-life color representation...as is also widely reported by many (all) magazine/internet HT/AV reviewers of the 700U.

Regarding Black Level, I find that there is way too much loss of detail in Dark...it provides a more Pioneer-esque PQ but at the expense of detail...inky blacks are cool but not the most important thing to me re. PQ...Black Level at Light allows me to see everything in great detail...I find the blacks black enough and the colors rich and true.
post #149 of 280
Quote:
Originally Posted by jdsmoothie View Post

Were you looking at the Panasonic 42PZ700, 50PZ700, etc. owner's thread? Your question has been asked and answered at least 50 times in the owner's thread over the past 10 months to wit .. PICTURE - 0; BRIGHTNESS - 0; No VIVID mode.

If you choose to break in the TV (I'm skeptical about the need for that), the brightness setting isn't important. Contrast is the only one that matters.
post #150 of 280
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ericthemidget View Post

I would really consider getting your sets ISF calibrated. I just had mine done and we are all WAY off 65K! Look at my other threads for before and after for ISF calibration. I would take screen shots, but it wouldn't mean a thing because your computer displays aren't ISF calibrated. SUCH A HUGE DIFFERENCE! Skin tones are spot on now and the shadow detail is amazing!

I second that opinion. I had my 58PZ700U calibrated by Eliab (www.avical.com) and he did an outstanding job. He did the calibration in the cinema mode and the PQ is awesome. The black level is light and the temperature is warm. I think it is well worth the cost to get a professional calibration.

Roger
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: Plasma Flat Panel Displays
AVS › AVS Forum › Display Devices › Plasma Flat Panel Displays › Panny PZ700U/750U Calibration Settings & Black Level Poll (Light or Dark?)