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Panny PZ700U/750U Calibration Settings & Black Level Poll (Light or Dark?) - Page 2

post #31 of 280
Quote:
Originally Posted by trae* View Post

Model: TH-58PZ700U
Environment Type: dark living room .
Sources: directtv hd reciever (via HDMI) and dmp-bd30/ps3(via HDMI).
Calibration Method: eye
Picture Mode: Standard
Picture: +22
Brightness: +8
Color: -2
Tint: -4
Sharpness: -14
Color Temp: WARM
Color Mgmt: On
C.A.T.S.: Off
Zoom Adjust: Greyed Out
PC Adjust: Greyed Out
Video NR: Off
3D Y/C Filter: Off
Color Matrix: HD
Block NR: Off
Mosquito NR: Off
Black Level: Light
3:2 Pulldown: Off
HD Size: Size 2

updated

changed settings to basically the cnet calibrated settings as well as the ISF calibrated settings that p l a s m a t v b u y i n g g u i d e . com(i would love an explanation why this site is edited btw) did for the 58/600u and stated that the standard with warm was almost the standard temp of 6500k.
post #32 of 280
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dovetails View Post

Hey Randy,
question ... does your 700u still have the 'floating blacks' that the earlier gen. did? Seems like I read a professional review on this set and they claimed that this model finally had solid blacks, no auto contrast adjustment. But then i've read on some threads here that Panny still uses this on it's latest gen sets. Which way is it? If they in fact still do, wonder if the 800u sets will continue with it. I've got an earlier 50u set and while it's not a big issue, I would prefer NOT to have this feature with Panasonic.

My 60U did not have floating blacks but my 58PE75U does. However, I was able to finally reduce this by running in Standard with a picture of +27 and a brightness of +2.
post #33 of 280
It looks like most people are lowering the sharpness from the default 15.

I set me 700u to
Custom
Picture +20
Brightness +7
Sharpness +15 (default setting)
Color management: on

The TV seems to have a soft focus so I'm not sure what to adjust to crisp things up.
post #34 of 280
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Maverickster2 View Post

REVISED

Model: TH-58PZ700U
Environment Type: Brightly lit living room.
Sources: Oppo 981HD DVD Player (via HDMI) and DirecTV HR20-700 HD-DVR (via HDMI).
Calibration Method: DVE
Picture Mode: Custom
Picture: +24
Brightness: +19
Color: -2
Tint: +1
Sharpness: 0
Color Temp: Warm
Color Mgmt: On
C.A.T.S.: Off
Zoom Adjust: Greyed Out
PC Adjust: Greyed Out
Video NR: Off
3D Y/C Filter: Off
Color Matrix: HD
Block NR: Off
Mosquito NR: Off
Black Level: Light
3:2 Pulldown: Off
HD Size: Size 2 (unless image has junk on edges then I switch to Size 1 to create the overscan)

I adjusted the Color Temp to "Warm" per the almost universal sentiment that this is closest to 6500K. It took a few days to get used to the adjustment from "Normal" but once I did, it really does provide the most "accurate" color; it's the only way to get skin tones right. "Normal" now looks "bluish". This, of course, also required me to recalibrate; the only thing that changed though, was Color was bumped up from -4 to -2 (also modified above). Still, thought I should point out I revised it.
post #35 of 280
For those interested, I found a blog entry from an ISF calibrator with some interesting observations and recommendations regarding this TV. The two I found most interesting relate to sharpness control (seems to adjust noise levels, not edge enhancement) and floating black levels.

Here's the article:
http://precision-video.blogspot.com/...libration.html
post #36 of 280
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by cpage View Post

For those interested, I found a blog entry from an ISF calibrator with some interesting observations and recommendations regarding this TV. The two I found most interesting relate to sharpness control (seems to adjust noise levels, not edge enhancement) and floating black levels.

Here's the article:
http://precision-video.blogspot.com/...libration.html

Interesting. He more or less gives away his settings in his response to the comment -- use Warm for color temp, set contrast and brightness using the DVE Pluge patterns (which, when I did it were about 24 and 19 with black level turned to "light", respectively), set Color to between -1 and -4, and leave Tint at 0. That's pretty consistent with most of our settings. Shouldn't be much of a surprise to those of us who cheated by using a calibration disc, but should be a compliment to those who didn't. Good job eyeballers!

--Mav
post #37 of 280
Quote:
Originally Posted by Maverickster2 View Post

Interesting. He more or less gives away his settings in his response to the comment -- use Warm for color temp, set contrast and brightness using the DVE Pluge patterns (which, when I did it were about 24 and 19 with black level turned to "light", respectively), set Color to between -1 and -4, and leave Tint at 0. That's pretty consistent with most of our settings. Shouldn't be much of a surprise to those of us who cheated by using a calibration disc, but should be a compliment to those who didn't. Good job eyeballers!

--Mav

Mav, my setting are similar to yours with the exception of Brightness...notice that the author of the article says that after calibration, "there was still some downward room to be had in black levels"...he opted to go down 3 clicks in Brightness...currently, I have Picture @ +24 and Brightness @ +9...if you followed the article's cue then that would put your Picture @ +24 and Brightness @ +16 (down 3 clicks from your calibrated 19)...we are converging...perhaps tonight, I will up my Brightness a little...I just prefer the deeper darker overall PQ that backing down the Brightness provides.

Also, take note that this calibrator's settings are very similar to CNET's...Color @ -2, Tint @ 0...Color Temp. = Warm...CNET put Picture @ +22 and Brightness @ +9...for what it's worth.
post #38 of 280
I spoke with the ISF calibrator in the article. He is not "giving away" his settings by blogging about it. He went into the service menue and was able to lower the subbrightness and gamma level, which you can't do in the regular menu.

His final settings were much lower than what you guys are posting at. Think picture of around +13 and brightnes +8.
post #39 of 280
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ericthemidget View Post

I spoke with the ISF calibrator in the article. He is not "giving away" his settings by blogging about it. He went into the service menue and was able to lower the subbrightness and gamma level, which you can't do in the regular menu.

His final settings were much lower than what you guys are posting at. Think picture of around +13 and brightnes +8.

Nice investigatory research...but if he was able to go into the service menu, should I assume that if he wasn't able then he would have opted for those settings?...IOW...how relevant are his Picture and Brightness settings if he tweaked where I can't?

Did he advise you that without going into the service menu, the settings would approximate Pic +13 and Br +8?

Thanks.
post #40 of 280
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ericthemidget View Post

I spoke with the ISF calibrator in the article. He is not "giving away" his settings by blogging about it. He went into the service menue and was able to lower the subbrightness and gamma level, which you can't do in the regular menu.

His final settings were much lower than what you guys are posting at. Think picture of around +13 and brightnes +8.

Eric, I did not mean "giving away" in the sense you took it. Of course, it's not exact (he even says so), but it it, by his own admission, a handy guideline. I'm not criticizing the guy at all. Just making an observation.

As for his final settings, though, you're right; adjusting the subbrightness and gamma will mean it's an apples and oranges situation. If his subbrightness were lowered and his non-service menu picture and brightness settings were (hypothetically) at 13 and 8, respectively, then our settings would, by definition, have to be higher to be even in the ballpark of his.

Not to mention, there are a lot of variables introduced by the room conditions (which is why I asked that folks post those conditions when they post their settings). In my case, my room is not a dedicated HT and it gets entirely too much ambient light to have my "picture" set at 13 and have it be watchable. The absolute lowest I could reasonably go would be +20, but I was able to go as high as 24 before blooming set in on the DVE Pluge patterns, so that's where I set it. As for brightness, of course, that's a function, in part of "picture", but as I've said elsewhere, with my picture set at 24, the point at which the "blacker than black" bar on the pluge pattern disappeared was at 19. Of course, ymmv (hence the point of having a whole thread with various sets of settings).

--Mav
post #41 of 280
Quote:
Originally Posted by BMAN1212 View Post

Nice investigatory research...but if he was able to go into the service menu, should I assume that if he wasn't able then he would have opted for those settings?...IOW...how relevant are his Picture and Brightness settings if he tweaked where I can't?

Did he advise you that without going into the service menu, the settings would approximate Pic +13 and Br +8?

Thanks.

everyone is able to get into the service menu he and other calibrators just know what they are doing and have the right equipment to adjust in there.

according to the settings i posted before from ptvbuyingguide website the settings from their ISF calibrated 58/600u are inline with the settings cnet recomended for the 700u ...but to answer the question no without the internal adjustments i dont think he would advise setting the pic so low
post #42 of 280
I wasn't taking offense at all! The guy is EXTREMELY nice and very professional.

The thing is that each set is VERY different. I would go with what ever you get from GetGray or DVE. Don't worry too much about what he posted.

For example, my best picture on my 58PE75U are Picture +27 and a brightness of +2. I am not crushing blacks or clipping whites. I verified this in GetGray and the picture is awesome. I also use Standard as it does not have the dynamic contrast (floating blacks) issue the other presets have.
post #43 of 280
If anyone has settings for the 42-PZ700U that are ideal for NHL hockey, please post. For sports in general, do you all find that you watch sports on the same settings that you already have set up? I pretty much watch football, baseball, hockey, golf, and basketball.

DAMN!!! i am supposed to be working from home and discovering this forum is not helping the cause. ha.

Thanks.
post #44 of 280
Hey Maverickster,

I used your exact same settings for a DVD player connected via Component and using Progressive scan. I found the dark scenes looked really gray. Not to cause controversy, but I only achieved acceptable results by changing the Black Level to dark.

Do different devices output a different picture? Does it matter HD vs. SD?
post #45 of 280
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Christopher_H View Post

Hey Maverickster,

I used your exact same settings for a DVD player connected via Component and using Progressive scan. I found the dark scenes looked really gray. Not to cause controversy, but I only achieved acceptable results by changing the Black Level to dark.

Do different devices output a different picture? Does it matter HD vs. SD?

Looks "gray" to you or looks "gray" according to an SMTPE test pattern designed to set brightness and contrast (DVE or GetGrey or Avia or some other such calibration disc) to the standard? If it's the former, set it however you like; what matters is what looks good to you, but just be aware that you may be sacrificing some detail at the low end. No controversy with that; the controversy arose from the refusal of another poster to recognize that this is a balance between sacrificing some depth by setting it just high enough to see *every* detail (which I prefer) and sacrificing some detail by darkening/deepening the image (which others prefer). There is not a right or wrong answer to this (although, there is a "correct according to the standards" answer), so go with whatever you prefer.

Also, please post your settings. We'd love to see them and this thread is starting to run dry of "new" settings.

--Mav
post #46 of 280
I'm using Avia to calibrate the TV, and the test patterns for black appear greyish. (I guess to my eye) I can see the detail in some of the moving patterns (forgetting the correct term) but the blacks aren't dark enough for me. I went with a plasma to achieve better darks that I found unacceptable in LCDs.
post #47 of 280
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Christopher_H View Post

I'm using Avia to calibrate the TV, and the test patterns for black appear greyish. (I guess to my eye) I can see the detail in some of the moving patterns (forgetting the correct term) but the blacks aren't dark enough for me. I went with a plasma to achieve better darks that I found unacceptable in LCDs.

That's fair. I'm sure A LOT of people feel that way. The only thing that's important to me is that people realize "ain't nothin' free" -- going "too dark" (below the reference point) has its advantages in terms of depth, but also its disadvantages in terms of detail; going "too bright" may show all of the details, but it "sure as $h!t" reduces the depth. The trick is to find the middle ground. The test patterns give you a "standardized" middle ground, but there's no question that different strokes for different folks. Eyesight differences, room conditions, different sets, and, most importantly, personal preferences mean just about everyone's settings will be different, I think.

Good luck!

--Mav

P.S. I would REALLY like to see your settings when you get a chance, though.
post #48 of 280
Quote:
Originally Posted by aphex187 View Post

I just used these (Randy's) settings on my 50" and they look absolutely fantastic. Thanks for posting these here!

Wow, i'm kinda shocked that someone likes my settings

Mine are considerably different than just about everybody elses (especially my odd combination of high Picture and Brightness settings with the Dark mode). Just about everybody in this thread and the big PZ700U sticky thread use lower Picture settings and the Light mode. I've tried probably 6 different people's settings and they didn't look good to me at all. I imagine that source and environment and content play a big part when choosing settings.

It's funny but i still keep tweaking and experimenting with my settings even though i've had this set for almost half a year
post #49 of 280
Quote:
Originally Posted by Christopher_H View Post

Do different devices output a different picture? Does it matter HD vs. SD?

Yes to practically every permutation of those kinds of questions. If you were to have the set calibrated using the service menu you'd have to do it for each input. And each source can output a different image, even if it's the same kind of source (i.e. two different Blu-Ray players) depending on the electronics inside.

Since HD can generally deliver brighter colors and picture than SD (let's say BR or HD DVD vs. DVD) then, in order to get the best from either, each would have to be calibrated separately. And if you start looking at broadcast sources, forget about it. The differences there are all over the place.

If you're calibrating it yourself the best you can hope for is to use some sort of reference (Avia, etc.) and tweak it for the source you use most. I think most of us, the lazy ones like me at least, are searching for some sort of happy medium where one setting looks good for everything.

Good luck.
post #50 of 280
Chris
When you used the Star Wars disc THX optimizer utility for the calibration, did you go thru all the steps or just the ones that didnt require the filters?
Just wondering.
If you had the filters were did you get them or did you already have them from Avia / DVE?
I dont have filters so would only be able to use the Black/White and contrast/sharpness settings and not the hue/tint/color adjustments
I did run it and for what it is its decent as a starting point if you dont have or want to pay for DVE or Avia right away

Quote:
Originally Posted by chris0 View Post

Model: TH-58PZ700U
Calibration Method: Mr. Bob (professional calibrationist) and THX Optimizer from SW: EPIII SD DVD
post #51 of 280
Quote:
Originally Posted by Christopher_H View Post

I'm using Avia to calibrate the TV, and the test patterns for black appear greyish. (I guess to my eye) I can see the detail in some of the moving patterns (forgetting the correct term) but the blacks aren't dark enough for me. I went with a plasma to achieve better darks that I found unacceptable in LCDs.

Depends on your dvd player,they're all different. So here's some advice,,,put a 1000 hours on your set "they go to 100,000 hours.and then set your black levels to dark and adjust your pic-brightness on a good HD cable channel:foodnetwork:local news: with the settings on this forum,try different ones,you will never come close to even a cheap LCD in the blacks with blacks set to light.And don't let anyone tell you that your loosing detail in your blacks if set to dark by using some pluge test on an unknown player using unknown cables unless the guy is sitting right beside you.Also the reviewers on some of these sites take out a plasma and right away think they know the tv.Baloney,LCD right out of the box you can review,not plasma.
post #52 of 280
Quote:
Originally Posted by RandyWalters View Post

Wow, i'm kinda shocked that someone likes my settings

Mine are considerably different than just about everybody elses (especially my odd combination of high Picture and Brightness settings with the Dark mode). Just about everybody in this thread and the big PZ700U sticky thread use lower Picture settings and the Light mode. I've tried probably 6 different people's settings and they didn't look good to me at all. I imagine that source and environment and content play a big part when choosing settings.

It's funny but i still keep tweaking and experimenting with my settings even though i've had this set for almost half a year

My settings were pretty close to yours,,just changed my tint the other way,,i'm almost 100% sure these plasma tv's take a long time too settle down.
post #53 of 280
Quote:
Originally Posted by kinglerxt View Post

Chris
When you used the Star Wars disc THX optimizer utility for the calibration, did you go thru all the steps or just the ones that didnt require the filters?
Just wondering.
If you had the filters were did you get them or did you already have them from Avia / DVE?
I dont have filters so would only be able to use the Black/White and contrast/sharpness settings and no hue/tint/color adjustments
I did run it and for what it is its decent as a starting point if you dont have or want to pay for DVE or Avia right away

I have the glasses. I bought them for a dollar or two from some site, I don't remember which. Do a google search for "THX Optimizer glasses" and you should find it.
post #54 of 280
Quote:
Originally Posted by HDTVmeeh View Post

Depends on your dvd player,they're all different. So here's some advice,,,put a 1000 hours on your set "they go to 100,000 hours.and then set your black levels to dark and adjust your pic-brightness on a good HD cable channel:foodnetwork:local news: with the settings on this forum,try different ones,you will never come close to even a cheap LCD in the blacks with blacks set to light.And don't let anyone tell you that your loosing detail in your blacks if set to dark by using some pluge test on an unknown player using unknown cables unless the guy is sitting right beside you.Also the reviewers on some of these sites take out a plasma and right away think they know the tv.Baloney,LCD right out of the box you can review,not plasma.

did you seriously just say that a plasma not to mention a panasonic plasma will never come close to a cheap lcd in blacks regardless of it being set to light???????? wow
post #55 of 280
Any samsung will trounce a Panny plasma that has it's black levels set to light,the only way to be in the same ballpark as a pioneer plasma is to have the blacks set to dark after running in the tv,you'll also notice the whites magically appear and are very bright and loose the full screen creamy look,i believe one of the reasons the pioneers look great out of the box is they're run in for many hours before shipped out of the factory.
post #56 of 280
Guys, please don't start arguing in this thread, too.
post #57 of 280
Quote:
Originally Posted by HDTVmeeh View Post

Any samsung will trounce a Panny plasma that has it's black levels set to light,the only way to be in the same ballpark as a pioneer plasma is to have the blacks set to dark after running in the tv,you'll also notice the whites magically appear and are very bright and loose the full screen creamy look,i believe one of the reasons the pioneers look great out of the box is they're run in for many hours before shipped out of the factory.

i find it very funny that several pages back you didnt know much about settings or calibration disks now you are the expert around here not only on plasmas but lcd's as well it seems.so pioneer "runs in" their plasmas before they are shipped? whatever the hell run in is .... as for your comments on the light setting again ..chris0 had his set professionally calibrated (Settings on the first page )and guess what champ its set to light i wonder why that is?
post #58 of 280
Quote:
Originally Posted by chris0 View Post

Guys, please don't start arguing in this thread, too.

i know i shouldnt be since trying to talk to this guy is like pissing in the wind but i just cant help myself
post #59 of 280
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by trae* View Post

i know i shouldnt be since trying to talk to this guy is like pissing in the wind but i just cant help myself

I'd like to keep the "fight" out of here, too. Please just ignore him. We've been up and down these issues with him in the Owner's thread, but still he evidently prefers to remain consciously ignorant of the subject matter, and would apparently rather "troll" for fights and dole out half-baked "advice" than actually take the time to learn about it. All we can hope for is that folks who come here to look for *competent* advice avoid his.

--Mav
post #60 of 280
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ericthemidget View Post

I wasn't taking offense at all! The guy is EXTREMELY nice and very professional.

The thing is that each set is VERY different. I would go with what ever you get from GetGray or DVE. Don't worry too much about what he posted.

For example, my best picture on my 58PE75U are Picture +27 and a brightness of +2. I am not crushing blacks or clipping whites. I verified this in GetGray and the picture is awesome. I also use Standard as it does not have the dynamic contrast (floating blacks) issue the other presets have.

those settings look good.
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