Originally Posted by supergoon
I tried the reset and it didn't work.
Glad to hear you solved it though. Could you take a picture of how you set up the ground loop wire? I have read about that, but I am not sure what it means precisely.
I'm at my office right now, so i can't take pics, but I can definitely explain it in detail, with some pics from the internet:
There are two ways to solve this. Option number 1: Get a ground loop isolation transformer. These are available from most discount cable suppliers and other sources on the net from $10 or $15 up to maybe $30. Here's a link to a pic of one from RAM electronics which is reasonably priced:http://www.ramelectronics.net/render...=500&padding=0
Obviously, this just plugs inline between the AVR and sub, resolving the ground loop issues and eliminating the popping noise.
Option number 2: Run a wire from the chassis of the AVR to the chassis of the sub's amplifier. Some purpose made (and usually extremely overpriced) "subwoofer cables" include an additional wire for this exact circumstance. Here's a link to some pics from Crutchfield of AudioQuest's Sub-1 cable, which has this additional wire:http://www.crutchfield.com/App/Produ...SUB13M&g=20111
Basically any length of copper hook-up wire will do -- just loosen (a little bit -- enough to slide the wire under) any screw on the back of your AVR and put one end of the wire under it, then tighten the screw down onto the wire. Then repeat the process with a screw on the amp of your subwoofer. If you want, you can use little spade ends for a cleaner install, like AudioQuest does. This will unite the grounds of the sub and AVR, usually eliminating ground-related noises like this pop. Just make sure you get a screw that goes into the chassis, like one of the screws that might be removed to open the amp and get at the interior. Often the screws used to hold the amp inside the subwoofer are painted, as is the exterior of the amp itself, and the paint insulates the screw (and thus your wire) from contacting the metal of the amp's chassis -- see the pic below.
Good luck! Let me know how it turns out.