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Green Glue does not reduce noise coming IN - Page 2

post #31 of 97
Besides the door being a possible avenue for the sound to come through, is there a gap between the door and the floor? Did you caulk the bottom of the drywall to the floor? As was said already, the room needs to be airtight.
post #32 of 97
It's the siding for sure (and maybe the closet door). I have this situation in the second floor master bedroom with a pool next door. Sometimes I swear it sounds like they are in the bedroom, even a normal conversion can be heard. My main floor level is bricked with the basement poured concrete. The theater is double drywall and GG and you can't hear the noisiest pool party.

I'd sure be interested in your findings once the GG is cured.
post #33 of 97
Quote:
Originally Posted by P-Dizzoh View Post

I wanted to start with a large corner walk-in closet to test green glue performance. The objective was to eliminate or greatly reduce barking dogs and rude neighbors that sit outside and drink beer and yell all night about 50 feet from this corner closet. I read all the reviews and looked at the lab results so I decided to give it a try. I drywalled the ceiling with additional 1/2 inch drywall and the walls with additional 5/8 inch drywall. Wall square footage = 222. I used 12 tubes of GG. All boards were cut and fit together with minimum spacing, fastened with 1 5/8 inch screws and taped with paper. As I was mudding today I enjoyed the sounds of neighborhood dogs and people yelling. As I put my head against the wall I could CLEARLY hear the barking dogs. I went into another part of the bedroom, put my head up to the drywall, and boom... same noise. I didn't need to put my head to the wall in the closet, I just did it to find the source of the noise. The noise was clearly coming in. And for the GG diehards, there are NO other places for noise to come into this closet AND I'm not hearing it coming from someplace else. Simple test, put head to the wall with GG and hear noise, put head to wall w/o GG and hear same noise. The noise isn't really even muffled in the closet. Also, I followed the instructions to a T. (Random pattern on board with about a 2 inch border) 2 tubes per 8X4 board.

Maybe this stuff helps reduce home theater noise going out, but it is useless for preventing noise coming in the home. Please don't respond and ask obvious questions. I drywalled correctly and installed GG correctly. I'm positive someone will quote this out and insist on making an assumption about installation or room environment and I'll respond.

I did read this stuff takes 30 days to cure but what is frightening is I really hear no difference. To me, the product works if you can experience it working first hand. I can't imagine this stuff will go from providing minimal reduction to the great product everyone rants and raves over. Come to think of it, I haven't found a single post about someone who has used this stuff in my scenario and had significant results. Maybe this is why I can only post to the theater design section.

My advice, and take this from first hand experience from someone using his ears, don't use this product to eliminate outside noises.

Here's my advice, if you want quiet move into a solid brick home on a few acres out in the country. Don't try and GG some drywall in a house made from 1/2 drywall and exterior vinyl siding.

I shut my door into my newly GG'd closet and listen to loud engines, neighbors ,and barking dogs.

I have an extra case and I want my money back. I busted my butt this weekend with hope and instead all I got is my clothes spread out all over the house.

And for those of you telling me it works great in your home theaters,

A.) I can't validate that by listening with my EARS.
B.) I don't want to get into a comparison of how many drywall layers, tubes, etc.

I can just say, one additional layer installed as mentioned above had a VERY minimal effect.

We would like to know the results of your GG now since it's your 32nd day now which is 2 days past the number of GG curing days. Thanks.
post #34 of 97
I think that something may be overlooked here, by reading your first post you say that this closet is on the corner of your home with the space directly outside your closet on two sides is outdoors correct? If so, then you may want to take a look up in the attic, assuming that your home is of a normal design and construction the sound is entering in through the outside soffits, there will be no insulation in those due to airflow issues, this will probably mean that the attic insulation in that corner section will be less that satisfactory for sound transmission, have a crawl up in the attic and take a look for yourself and see what is going on.

post #35 of 97
We live in a one story house a corner lot. Directly across the street from the side of our house there is a 100K sq ft elementary school being built.
We have invested in sound proof windows in an effort to reduce some of the noise coming in - but a large portion of it comes through the roof.

I have also concluded that the noise is coming through the soffits and some of the off ridge roof vents.

Any other thoughts as a barrier to this noise intrusion? We have already doubled up the insulation so we are we above the standard r-30 in Florida.

I am considering sprayed foam between the roof rafters? It also acts as an additional roof sealant from water intrusion - anyone have any suggestions?

Thanks ahead of time - trying to stay on topic as we are also trying to keep noise out of the house.

Jason
post #36 of 97
Any word now that it has been 30 days?
post #37 of 97
How can the sound waves know which way they are coming? The effect from the green glue and the drywall combination should be independent from where the source is eminating.
post #38 of 97
You can read about this on the Green Glue site.

If you DD+GG the inside of the wall you will deaden noise hitting the inside of the wall from vibrating the rest of the structure. The DD & sealing will deaden the mids and high, and the GG will deaden the subs/lows. If you want to deaded sound coming IN to the room you will need to deaded the outside of the house to keep those vibrations from getting into the structure.

Another example I read somewhere on these forums is for getting rid of people walking on wood floors ABOVE the theater room. You would have to take down the existing drywall & insulation from below and GG drywall to the bottom of the sub-floor -- OR you would have to pull the floor up from above and add a layer of something with GG to the subfloor and then put your wood floor (or tile, etc) back on top of it.

I think this would be a better test for GREEN GLUE in your closet. Play loud music inside the closet and stuff linen under the door to try and keep the sound inside. Now go outside and see if you can hear it.
post #39 of 97
Quote:
Originally Posted by P-Dizzoh View Post

Well sound must be getting in someplace else because I can clearly hear it. I realize I have not let the product cure. I also realize that a vinyl siding house with 1/2 inch drywall provides NO sound insulation from the outside world. It should be a crime to build homes like this. I also have learned an expensive (in terms of money, time, and effort) lesson. Trying to block sound in phases in a home that is constructed like I mentioned is foolish and will not work. Is there sound flanking around the structure as some have mentioned... of course. I'd bet on it. The cheap mass produced house is probably filled with places sound can get in that I would spend a lifetime trying to seal up.

Last night I applied the second coat of mud. I have one or two more to go. (Hopefully I can get it to look good with one) And then I have to apply knockdown texture and acoustical texture to the walls and ceiling respectively. All skills I did not want to possess. Currently I have a mess to work with. I'm not going to endlessly tear my house apart trying to reduce the sound coming in.

I tried dealing with these rednecks by talking to them directly, calling the police (myself and other neighbors), and now with windows and GG. I wanted to get a head start before the spring and summer. (Great hot tub and pool weather!!) There are NO sound ordinances in my town so if anyone out there likes to party I have the community for you. The worst that will happen is the police will knock at your door and tell you to turn it down. At that point you can just tell them to kiss your ass.... and they will.

If you share a common wall with someone in a townhouse/apartment scenario I'd put more hope in this as a solution. Trying to undo construction that has no sound reducing intent behind it by adding another layer of drywall and some damping compound in select spots is like pissing in the wind. I just hope others who are considering this realize the extent you must go to achieve reduced sound.

You may not be out of luck just because your town doesn't have a sound ordinance. Common law nuisance might be your friend in these circumstances. (Don't take my word for it - talk to your neighborhood lawyer).
post #40 of 97
Here's what I did to stop my neighbour's TV noise (not deafening, just annoying):

1. GG'd standard 10mm plasterboard and stuck it to the wall.

2. GG'd standard 10mm plasterboard and stuck that over the top of the first layer.

Waited 30 days between the 2 steps.

Result:
TV noise not impeded at all. No worse; no better. But now have lost 2cm from my living space , and lost a few hundred UK pounds. Now going for olde worlde resilient bars, etc. Bah!!!
post #41 of 97
Quote:
Originally Posted by richard_af View Post

Here's what I did to stop my neighbour's TV noise (not deafening, just annoying):

1. GG'd standard 10mm plasterboard and stuck it to the wall.

2. GG'd standard 10mm plasterboard and stuck that over the top of the first layer.

Waited 30 days between the 2 steps.

Result:
TV noise not impeded at all. No worse; no better. But now have lost 2cm from my living space , and lost a few hundred UK pounds. Now going for olde worlde resilient bars, etc. Bah!!!

We need more details than you gave to help this problem. How big is the room, do you have windows or doors, where is your neighbor's TV located, how is the house and room constructed?
post #42 of 97
Hi Richard, welcome to the forum. Sorry to hear about your difficulties. If you applied the materials correctly, and heard no difference, then clearly you likely have significant flanking taking place.

You see, even if you applied the additional sheets of drywall with no Green Glue at all, you would have heard a difference. The fact that you heard no difference is a traditional indicator of flanking. Likely no additional efforts to that wall will improve things.

I would recommend you analyze the different flanking pathways before you invest more time and energy on that wall. The resilient bars (resilient channel) also would create a small air gap that will resonate at quite a high frequency. You could easily worsen the problem with this course of action.

If you would care to, I'd be happy to work with you on this.
post #43 of 97
I agree with the above.

The two sheets of 5/8" drywall should of made a big difference all on it's own.

Richard states 10mm Plaster board??? What the heck is that? 5/8" drywall should be way thicker than 10mm right?

TV noise? This part of your post makes no sense... Once again GG helps down low with your sub, really doesn't help that much at all with mid type frequencies, that's the job of the double drywall which works well all on it's own.
post #44 of 97
10mm board is 3/8"

Actually if you compare the Transmission Loss curves of damped and undamped drywall walls, you'll see that the damped wall will show a significant improvement along the entire frequency spectrum. Most damping materials will demonstrate this. The Green Glue is a bit unique in that it additionally demonstrates enhanced performance in the low frequencies as well. Other damping materials do not.

John is right on the money with his comment that two additional sheets of drywall alone should have taken care of "TV noise."
post #45 of 97
Green Glue does not work...at least not for me either. I have only waited one day and not 30, but like the OP, I don't notice ANY difference. If by some miracle the GGG (Green Glue Gods) cure it after 30 days then I will repost, but I'm guessing OP didn't repost because there was nothing to add. (I probably won't repost either, will be too busy cursing).

My situation is in a 1929 brick semi-detached house. The party wall is made of plaster on top of very thick (at least 10 inches) of stone block. I should note that the block is original and was seemingly fashioned out of small stones held together by tar...pitcure if you will a giant rice krispy square with pebbles as the rice krispies and tar as the marshmallows. Perhaps this was done on the cheap (stock market crash anyone?) but it seems that construction is how the noise (talking, tv, music, sneezing, urinating) comes right through.

At any rate, it is a very small house with narrow hallways that doesn't afford me room to frame a new insulated wall. In comes GG and 5/8" drywall, seemingly the best and most labour efficient way to address the problem. In my case I can say with confidence there is no flanking issue because I addressed the problem in the kitchen and master bedroom where there was room to frame a new wall....the problem improved 95%.

I used drywall nails (the only method to grab the concrete/plaster) as sparingly as I could around the perimeter only of each sheet since I realize they could be flanking points, but I can clearly hear right through the center of each sheet as well. I followed GG instructions as well.

What I recommend for others is 1) AVOID GREEN GLUE
2) Frame out a new wall with steel studs or resilient channels on clips....from what I have read this will use at LEAST two inches based on 1/2" dryway....2 inches would have made my front door look oddly off-center and put my wall-mounted coat rack as an eye-level obstacle, but it probably would have been worth it.

The next step is to shove rockwool into your frames...in Canada this is made by Roxul and is called Safe n Sound, is a great product to work with, cuts much easier than pink fibreglass and doesn't have those little itchy glass shards as a side effect. Even if you have to pull apart the 3-inch thick batts, 1.5 inches of Rockwool is better than GG, and cheaper too.
post #46 of 97
Interesting first post. Not entirely sure what to make of it, but I'll address it at face value.

You are not going to improve a 10" masonry with a layer of drywall. Whoever sold it to you should have known this.

The other point you already described. One day old damping material is wet. That's why it says to allow to dry for "30 days." Don't you think it's a bit premature after 1 day?

As far as your recommendation for alternative methods you would have to remove your existing plaster first before erecting the new wall or installing clips.

Lastly from a performance standpoint, fiberglass and mineral fiber are fairly close, however both perform the function of absorption, not damping. Insulation adds little to the overall isolation picture. Definitely worth doing, but nothing to count on heavily.

I have no clue about the rest of your job over there, but I'd give it a couple of weeks and see what happens. I'm sure the laws of physics haven't been suspended at your house.
post #47 of 97
How suspect is this? Other than the OP, all the GG naysayers have 1 post.

GG, and other CLD materials installed inside a room will work equally well for interior and exterior sounds. There is not directional component. Curing is an important consideration. As mentioned before...if you put up drywall (GG or not) and there is no difference, you have flanking...and that flanking can be via a very small hole or gap (electrical outlet, recessed ceiling fixtures, doors, window, etc.

Note...on all of our high performance rooms, the primary purpose for installing and using sound isolation techniques is soley to prevent exterior sounds from entering the space. I should add, these high performance rooms have had their NC/NR ratings confirmed by independent third parties. So much for Green Glue not working and not working when installed inside against exterior noise.
post #48 of 97
orly

Quote:
Originally Posted by nasdaddy View Post

Green Glue does not work...at least not for me
either. I have only waited one day and not 30, but like the OP, I don't notice ANY difference. If by some miracle the GGG (Green Glue Gods) cure it after 30 days then I will repost, but I'm guessing OP didn't repost because there was nothing to add. (I probably won't repost either, will be too busy cursing).

My situation is in a 1929 brick semi-detached house. The party wall is made of plaster on top of very thick (at least 10 inches) of stone block. I should note that the block is original and was seemingly fashioned out of small stones held together by tar...pitcure if you will a giant rice krispy square with pebbles as the rice krispies and tar as the marshmallows. Perhaps this was done on the cheap (stock market crash anyone?) but it seems that construction is how the noise (talking, tv, music, sneezing, urinating) comes right through.

At any rate, it is a very small house with narrow hallways that doesn't afford me room to frame a new insulated wall. In comes GG and 5/8" drywall, seemingly the best and most labour efficient way to address the problem. In my case I can say with confidence there is no flanking issue because I addressed the problem in the kitchen and master bedroom where there was room to frame a new wall....the problem improved 95%.

I used drywall nails (the only method to grab the concrete/plaster) as sparingly as I could around the perimeter only of each sheet since I realize they could be flanking points, but I can clearly hear right through the center of each sheet as well. I followed GG instructions as well.

What I recommend for others is 1) AVOID GREEN GLUE
2) Frame out a new wall with steel studs or resilient channels on clips....from what I have read this will use at LEAST two inches based on 1/2" dryway....2 inches would have made my front door look oddly off-center and put my wall-mounted coat rack as an eye-level obstacle, but it probably would have been worth it.

The next step is to shove rockwool into your frames...in Canada this is made by Roxul and is called Safe n Sound, is a great product to work with, cuts much easier than pink fibreglass and doesn't have those little itchy glass shards as a side effect. Even if you have to pull apart the 3-inch thick batts, 1.5 inches of Rockwool is better than GG, and cheaper too.
post #49 of 97
This thread is 3 years old.. The fact that he had to search back 3 years to find an individual with the same opinion should probably tell everybody something..
post #50 of 97
From the narrative it sounds like he installed a single layer of drywall to the plaster wall with some GG sandwiched in there. I don't think this is an approved use.
post #51 of 97
I have never used GG so take this with a grain of salt..I have spoken out a time or 2 about it just from a non user perspective.

I can see building a room within a room working quite well...lots of insulation and sturdy framing and the use of 2 layers of 5/8" drywall. BUT I just cant wrap my head around the GG. I have read on it and seen several threads about it. BUT that lil gap it produces along with its supposed absorption properties just dont add up.

You want a soundproof room??? DO a room within a room with plenty of insulation and good framing and dont forget the flooring as well..
post #52 of 97
Most probably flanking.
post #53 of 97
Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

From the narrative it sounds like he installed a single layer of drywall to the plaster wall with some GG sandwiched in there. I don't think this is an approved use.

A 10" masonry wall with questionable plaster face. Nothing I'd recommend.

Quote:
Originally Posted by mikieson View Post

...I just cant wrap my head around the GG. ...that lil gap it produces along with its supposed absorption properties just dont add up.

I can appreciate your comments. This isn't intuitive and I'm really quite glad you asked. Visco-damping materials don't work by creating an air gap. The visco layer is intimately bonded to each sheet of surface (like drywall for example). The drywall oscillates in and out as sound waves bombard the wall. This oscillation pulls on the visco damping layer with a great deal of shear force. Through this constant stretching process, the damping material heats up, which by definition is a change in the form of energy. We went from kinetic energy to thermal energy, and heat won't produce a vibrational wave.

This even happens at a very small level with just two sheets of drywall screwed together. Some small friction is created. What visco-elastic damping materials do is simply make this energy conversion very efficient.

I would mention that insufficient contact between the two drywall layers can drastically drop damping performance. The drywall is still oscillating, however insufficient damping material is being sheared. The damping material needs to be significantly compressed to function, otherwise it may as well be construction adhesive.

You can easily see lab test results with and without a damping material on websites all over.
post #54 of 97
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ted White View Post

I would mention that insufficient contact between the two drywall layers can drastically drop damping performance. The drywall is still oscillating, however insufficient damping material is being sheared. The damping material needs to be significantly compressed to function, otherwise it may as well be construction adhesive.

So I have a quick question regarding GG application. From the paragraph above, it would seem that applying more small beads of GG would be better than fewer larger beads. I understand it will spread when squeezed between the sheets, but is there a measurable (or noticable) difference.

I just want to be sure when I get to that stage of my build.
post #55 of 97
I have modified my drywall in several cases and when I cut out some of the drywall (small pieces) the drywall was literally "glued" together as if it was one piece and when I seperated the pieces of drywall by force the green glue was very hard and dry (I thought the purpose of it was to stay rubbery and have some give to it like silicone?).

RISC clips to stop vibrations and such from transferring to joists makes sense but I think if I do a room again I'll invest in the clips and skip the green glue. I'm just not convinced that the results from the glue justifies the very high price of material. I haven't done any type of scientific experiments to prove one way or the other so it's just my unscientific statement but I do question how much this stuff really helps.
post #56 of 97
Quote:
Originally Posted by brausch View Post

So I have a quick question regarding GG application. From the paragraph above, it would seem that applying more small beads of GG would be better than fewer larger beads. I understand it will spread when squeezed between the sheets, but is there a measurable (or noticable) difference.

I just want to be sure when I get to that stage of my build.

The best pattern is large random 3/8" beads. The worst is small tooth trowel.

Quote:
Originally Posted by xb1032 View Post

I have modified my drywall in several cases and when I cut out some of the drywall (small pieces) the drywall was literally "glued" together as if it was one piece and when I seperated the pieces of drywall by force the green glue was very hard and dry (I thought the purpose of it was to stay rubbery and have some give to it like silicone?).

It is soft after years so im not really sure what your looking at. Anyone with an old caulk gun with a bit of GG left can attest. The polymers simply can't get stiff. 6+ year old archived samples held by testing labs are still as soft as they were originally and anyone is free to contact the lab manager to verify. Damping materials don't harden.

Quote:
Originally Posted by xb1032 View Post


RISC clips to stop vibrations and such from transferring to joists makes sense but I think if I do a room again I'll invest in the clips and skip the green glue. I'm just not convinced that the results from the glue justifies the very high price of material. I haven't done any type of scientific experiments to prove one way or the other so it's just my unscientific statement but I do question how much this stuff really helps.

Clips decouple and damping materials damp. Different functions.

Maybe look at the myriad independent lab reports if you care to. Your" unscientific statement" really is, and is not corroborated by others that have installed damping materials properly.
post #57 of 97
ergo ... if it was hard and dry it wasn't a damping material. Green Glue or otherwise.
post #58 of 97
I can attest that after a year and 3 mos, my GG is still soft and quite sticky. I still have unfinished trim in which I can see where the GG has oozed out the sides around doors and windows (so I'm guessing that it was properly compressed). Every once in a while I can't resist the urge to peel a little off. It's like peeling silly putty off of the comics pages when we were kids.
post #59 of 97
We have samples dating back to 2004 that are still just as sticky.
post #60 of 97
Quote:
Originally Posted by P-Dizzoh View Post
To me, the product works if you can experience it working first hand.
I haven't used GG, but i look forward to it the day I move out of my apartment and buy my own place so I can.

I guess you along with ppl who complain after day 1 have never used concrete, epoxy, or anyother material that requires curing... Give it the 30 days like instructions say. People are just so used to instant gratification these days.

GG isn't a miracle product, and it seems like that's what you're expecting.
If you've read all the material that Ted has to offer, you would have seen that GG takes sound wave energy and converts it to heat. it's science. In order to do this, the GG has to be set and cured. Simple.

Lastly, for the results you were expecting you need to go all out and do the complete decoupling (room-in-room/stag joists/hat-channel/etc.) to get the maximum effect. I've read other users on here who only did the 2nd layer of drywall using GG with only noticable improvements, not complete audio isolation.

I just realized this thread is 3 years old after typing this, but I don't want to delete and waste my 5 mins I spent typing this up.
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