Lumagen Vision 24p fixup release to include gamut control - Page 25

I don't have many Blurays either. Just concerts which are shot in interlaced video and TV shows on SAT. For an RS1 the HDQ is great but for one of the newer projectors I would get a radiance I think.

I don't own many BluRays either, but I rent upto 15 per month using Blockbuster online. If I had the money for a Radiance, I'd be considering buying a HD950 instead of my HD350...or at least an ex demo HD750. Then I'm not sure what extra benefit having a Radiance would be over the HDQ for watching mostly 1080/24p BluRays, with the CMS in the HD750/950 being better than what I have now in the HDQ.

It's largely a moot point though as I'm really happy with the HDQ/HD350 combo and have other (non AV ) things that I should probably spend my money on. It's just useful to have these forums to find out how to get the best out of my setup. I find it refreshing that Lumagen continue to support the older models and provide help here and on other forums I visit.

I do agree with everything you say except I still think a VP has the benefit of adjusting each input where with the JVC 750/950 alone you may have some slight differences between sources that require adjusting. I have differences between my HDDVD player I use for DVD's and my Bluray player. My SAT uses slightly different brightness settings as well and I use all digital inputs. Same goes for my PC settings. I don't use a 2.35 screen so sometimes I like to zoom in about 15% using my HDQ with 2.35 movies. The HDQ scaling is so clean that I don't seem to lose any sharpness. I don't think you can zoom in 5% increments like you can with a Lumagen VP. I had zoom on my old ISCAN and the picture was too soft using zoom. Lumagen processors truly get the most out of your display. Even the HDQ still rocks and the colors are adjusted enough to get rid of the awful green and yellows that pop up from time to time without it on the non CMS JVC projectors.

Ron

Really OT and talking hypothetically anyway, but if I had upgraded to that ex display HD750 I saw I would have still kept the HDQ. I reckon that would be better VFM (and a little cheaper depending on what I got for my HD350) rather than buying a Radiance to use with my HD350.

I wouldn't get rid of my HDQ even if I only had one source to use with my PJ as I use the HDQ to upscale SD TV and DVD to my TV as well (noticably better picture quality than using the built in digital tuner).

I have been pretty happy with my HDP, but one thing keeps nagging at me, and that is some mild banding, only on dark backgrounds with semi solid colors. I am not 100% sure it's the HDP, but I don't recall seeing it so often before I had the HDP. I have to think this is due to the 8bit r/g/b limitation, but I am not sure.

I use the HDP for two things: color adjustment for my FPJ1 projector, and CIH via shrinking option. I sometimes wonder when a projector will come out that will solve these for me, and have acceptable contrast. The Panny AE4000 is probably not there yet, but I'm thinking these requirements of mine might get there in a year or two. I would love to upgrade to a Radiance, but it will simply never happen at MSRP prices.

+I am in the same boat! 1 to 2K is one thing but 3-5K is a little out there.

Rew

Coming from an FP11 I think you might still feel it's lacking.....I went from an AE3000 to the HD350 and it's really night and day especially on dark scenes. Maybe the AE5000, but otherwise enjoy what you already have. I don't notice banding on mine, only when watching low bitrate SD TV sources and that's not the HDQ's fault as it's inherent in the source. BluRays don't seem to show this issue, though I have calibrated it as close as my Eye-one sensor will allow, in other words better than by eye, but not a full ISF job. I don't see the point upgrading to the Radiance as that cost would buy me a better PJ with CMS and I'd still have the HDQ for 11 point greyscale and SD upscaling for the rare occasions I don't watch HD.

Yes, I intend to enjoy what I have for a while. I will need something quite significant to change (like LED light source to be common in most projectors), and I am hoping in that time the lens memory feature really starts spreading to other manufacturers.

I see some banding on my setup as well but only on my SAT service and usually only HD channel commercials and SD TV. I see the same level of banding on my Sony flat panel in the living room so its really in the source. I saw other weird artifacts on HD channels back before I got my HDQ so the HDQ really cleaned up my HD channel viewing. It was like getting a new projector after calibrating it to the correct gamma and grey scale. An HDQ or HDP at used prices is a lot of bang for the buck!

Some of that banding in commercials and SD TV is less noticeable if you use the component connection between the SAT receiver and my HDQ. The extra analog step seems to smooth out the banding some. It doesn't eliminate it but it does seem a little smoother. I hardly ever use it though since SAT viewing isn't critical viewing to me and most of the time its fine. If my Bluray movies had banding I would be upset. I've hardly ever notice any on Bluray.

One other note: Adding the HDQ helped smooth out some of the reported motion artifacts on my RS1. That was the first thing I noticed when I added the HDQ was pans were much smoother.

Ron

Adjustment question. When watching some movies the whites seem too bright and the blacks too black (by that I mean all blacks look the same, no shades) I noticed this in the movies Proposal and Transformers 2. I have a Lumagen HDQ feeding an RS-1. Keep in mind I have over 1000 hours on my bulb if that makes any difference. The Lumagen and the RS-1 were calibrated about 500 hours ago. What adjustment do I have to make to reduce this effect? It sounds like it could be either contrast or gamma. I did read in the hi def digest review that the characters all looked tanned which I did notice, so that was a transfer issue not the processor.
I just am not sure what to play around with. It's nice that if I make a mistake all I do is a power cycle and things are all good.

Make sure you are matching "standard" vs. "enhanced" black levels. Also known as "PC" vs. Video" or "0" vs. "7.5".

Yes, I have seen that. I am on standard. Watching some movies, everything is perfect. We just watched an older movie called "out of Time" with Denzel Washington. The picture was beautiful and accurate. I read in the review of TF2 that everyone had a tan and the contrast was way out. I just want to know what to temporarily change to fix the immediate disk problem.

Question... when doing the greyscale... what is the correct luma for each IRE? If one is going to set the gamma through its own spot in the menu tree, does it matter what the luma is set to when setting the greyscale?

What Calibration program are you planing on using?

In calman i would first use the Gamma chart and adjust luma for each IRE to get correct gamma. Then go to the greyscale chart and adjust each IRE's RGB for the proper Greyscale. Measure again to see how gamma changed, adjust Luma again to even out the gamma curve and repeat greyscale till it all evens out as close as possible for greyscale and Gamma.

Athanasios

I redid the greyscale and gamma as I described in post number 447. I wanted to do it as Randy described in post number 456 but I couldn't follow his menu tree. Since he mentioned radiance in his post he must have forgotten I have the HDS. Anyways, it took a couple hours to get the gamma and greyscale right but I haven't done it in well over a year. It took a while to get back on the bike!

Btw I use Color HCFR.