Ver 1.5 update: Mike R(mtbdudex) 2.35 Ultra-wide 130" DIY Home Theatre/Basement Thread - Page 2

Man, time sure marches on!
I got the middle 3 of 6 to-do items done:
2) Re-do rear riser, make longer and into broadband bass absorber
3) Carpeting
4) Kitchenette cabinets where the play stuff is (ordered Hickory cabinets from HD) Sink/Microwave/misc snack storage.


I have a separate thread here for Fixing my riser: Broadband bass trap and from 5'6" to 7' deep and at Ethan Winer forum Home Theatre:Riser/other Broadband bass traps, that detour in the HT road took 3 weekends/late nights.
I installed (14) 4" x 14" vents: (1) on RH side, (4) on LH side, and (9) along back wall. Using REW I posted graphs of the vents shut and open, all my effort paid off with broadband absorption.
Picts and it definitely helped with the bass.
Side walls:


Back wall:


Next was carpeting:
Rear riser (dimable rope lights will eventually go under that carpet lip also, you can see plug for them)

Front LH/Center speaker close up showing pattern

Front wall shot:
(those 2 temp small tables hold my laptop/stuff as I took REW measurements each step)


With the dust from the riser re-do and the carpeting install, I cleaned my painted walls and had another detour.
Documented in this thread Best way to wipe dust marks off Behr Paint...
I learned more about paint that I wanted to know....
Not the easiest to see in these picts, but I've got the white milky chalk look others have posted about after just cleaning the walls with warm water and cloth:


Did some homework:
You can see where I painted Satin, Eggshell, and flat enamel (which my side walls had originally) on either side for comparison purposes
LH side wall direct shot & from 2nd row:


Ended up repainting the walls (flat paint), then drying for 3 days, I applied the "dead flat varnish" as topcoat for protection from any future burnishing.

Too many detours! But progress!

Kitchenette cabinets really makes the whole space more live-able!
Making the laminate top with hardwood edge trim, fun to do actually.



Final result:
From this:

to this:


You might see I'm working on my 16:9 manual masking for my 2.35:1 screen in the background, that should get done tomorrow, just apply the black velvet, they hang by magnets.

We've had 3 parties so far with family/friends , still more tasks to do in priority ranking:
1) Full basement bath tile shower/tile floor/install cabinets/plumbing/toilet/etc
>>This will make the basement liveable for people sleeping in the bedroom and a MUST for parties, I'm hosting a NCAA Basketball party Sat 4/4 so been working on that
2) Acoustics for front wall/side wall/back wall
>>Audyssey EQ seems to help but I have to control those sound reflections the "proper way"
3) AV rack sliding shelf's media storage
>>When AV shelfs media storage done then I'll consider myself graduated from being LOGANED.
4) Grafik Eye as upgrade to manual dimmers
>>This I'm considering part of HT 1.x revision

Thx;
I've done the laminate/hardwood edge 3 times now, heres my cliff notes version of the experience:
This link shows my center shelf lamiante/hardwood edge:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...3#post15297643

This sketch summarizes up easily the top layout/image:



-For the kitchenette counter top I used 3/4 press board (std HD stuff), and glued 3" wide strip around bottom side perimiter for 1 1/2 thick screw attach to cabinet and also 1 1/2 wide for glue/attach the hardwood edge
-45 degree miter edge the hardwood trim prior to assy (cut and tryout carefully for no gap at corner)
-pilot hole in hardwood every 12" for brad nail, glue/nail hardwood to top
-when dry, make 3 cuts per corner as shown, 1st at 45degree, 2nd / 3rd at 22.5 degree, this give starting place for rounding
-using palm sander round the edges, rough grit then fine grit is what I did
-apply laminate to top
-using Roman ogee bit (sp) router the edges
-lightly sand sharp edge if desired so if elbows/forearm lean on the edge softens it

Light over the top of the curtains is a non issue - I'm really pleased with them. Maybe because my 6' opening is so far back of the screen any light spill does not reach it, but basically light goes straight, and the top of the curtains is 2-3" above the opening. If the curtains are parted slightly it does shine onto the screen, so I just make sure they overlap when closed. For now I'm not putting Velcro/other to keep positive closed, not needed.
I have these walkout windows that shine pretty brightly in the rec/play area, definitely need the curtains closed for daytime viewing movies, if viewing HD sporting events open curtains sometimes works but you do lose some contrast onscreen.


Having that 6' HT area into the rec/play room works for this young family phase we are in, possible 5-ish years I'll frame the doors in there (it was built for that), still tbd. Of course downside is forget sound control, again I did basic construction with future sound control in mind (staggered studs) with double sided drywall/insulated. Not per some of the level others have done but works for our needs.

Edit:
I checked last night and the curtains are only 3/4 inch higher than the 6' entrance way due to wanting them to slightly touch the floor as well for light control there, still no problem and works fine for light control.

Tom;
When building our home in 2002 we had the kitchen spec'd out as granite, but we were way over budget and my builder offered the hardwood laminate edge to give them some appeal.
We did that, saved many $k's in the process, and see no need to change in the future.
Laminate done right looks very nice.
I copied what my builder did, but since he moved to Colorado in 2006 I guessed at the process and came up with my own method.


If you do inside corner here is detail of what he did.
I'd make a test piece for inside edge and router it to confirm how it comes out before doing the real deal.


The AV closet doors are the backside of this:


They were leftover 3/4 MDF from my IB Baffle line array project.
I choose MDF because it is relatively stable from warping, these pieces were in my garage bonus room workshop for 6 months and were flat-flat.
I routered the edge's to take the square look away, the panels slightly warped a few weeks later, I'm thinking the router induced stress on just one side and the panel curved to relieve itself of that.
That's why I suppose "real" doors are panel construction with slip joints to allow for stress relief and minimize warping.
These were supposed to be budget non-visual / non usage doors, hence painting them same as wall, I looked at Habitat for Humanity / Salvation Army for used doors but found nothing that was correct size (non std sizes), so I made these on the cheap.
If doing over, I'd put a much smaller roundover edge on them to minimize induced stress issues.

You can see slight gap in top/down and side/side, eventually when I put doors on the 6' HT entrance opening I'll put foam around the perimeter of each AV back door for some sound noise control, as well as making 2 plugs to absorb/block sound in the openings themselves.

Those cabinets and doors are Natural Hickory from HD, I just installed them.

I was actually looking at Knotty Pine cabinets from Menard's but did not quite find what I was looking for, so switched to Hickory, I love the grain in the wood.

Made manual masks for my 2.35:1 screen to view 16:9 stuff this weekend.

Details in my screen build thread located in the 2.35:1 DIY screen forum, this link will take you to that portion:
Manual masking panel for 2.35:1 screen for 16:9 viewing

Cliff notes summary:
Found these foil back 3/4" foam boards at the Lansing Michigan Menards back in January, lightweight and much sturdier than just foam boards.
Cheap, around $10 for a 4' x 8', cut in half at the store to fit in my car.

Prior during screen build I placed the 3/8" dia magnets in the border.

Used a paper template to ensure placement of the magnets, you can see the 5 magnets embedded in the foil/foam board just flush with surface:


Used foil HVAC tape to hold magnets in, wrap both panels in black velvet, staple with 1/2" staples, the foil helps keep the staples secure in the foam.

Result, great for HD sports!


Of course my 3 year old was watching Sponge Bob, so what the heck here is that for the family people here:


On more small project done.

Next up, bathroom:
-Shower stall full tile floor/wall
-Bathroom tile floor
-Toilet install
-Cabinet install
-Make laminate top, sink install
-Shower door install
-fixture install, sink and shower
-baseboard mldg install
3 weeks for this bath??? No bets on this one, we'll see my spring time motivation index.

Bathroom, shower sub-project:
I'm making a traditional full cement tile floor/curb.
I did this similar project 7 years ago (2002) in our Master Bath during our home construction, but I forgot some of the details and had to re-read up on how-to-do.
Loghome Master Bath Project
Weekday Wed 3/18/09 progress:
Step 1:
Prepare shower waste pipe for drain.
2 years ago when I added the p-trap and air vent


I did not correctly take into account the shower drain config, so I had to break concrete for correct height setting of the lower portion:
Smash and remove some 2-ish year old poured concrete:


Cut drain pipe to correct height to allow lower portion of shower drain to sit 3/4" above the basement floor (that's the min thickness of the concrete, and those "feet" emboss for screws will just rest there:


Pour cement just in the re-done area, clamp is used to hold the assy level while drying:
(it was just simple pressure, not forced)


Let dry 2 days.

Weekend 3/21 progress:
Laydown roofers paper, cut/install shims along inside perimeter for ref when pouring concrete for 1/4" per foot slope under tile portion.
(which goes UNDER the to be installed PVC membrane)


Train my helpers in the fine art of cement mixing, not too much H20, not too little...
They took off their shirts on their own just in case of cement splashing, don’t they look like “real workers”, minus the butt crack/overhang belly…..
(no offense to the real pros who read this forum intended)


Cut 3 scree boards for making the slope from drain to perimeter guides.
Almost (3) 80lb bags went into this so far.


That is where it is as of Sunday 3/22 evening, just as the MSU Spartans were clinching their victory over USC!

Next up:
Preparing and install the shower membrane before the next pouring of concrete.

Like the story I read my kids at night,
sloow and steady wins the race....

Gosh with nice outdoor weather/kids sports where the heck is my final 2-3% project completion time gonna come from??

Finally more progress on the bathroom:

Sloped cement subfloor done in March, next the PVC liner install.
Measure, buy PVC liner from HomeDepot, cut to size (a few trial measures done), dry fit, make corner PVC patches/cement in.
Prep for gooy roof tar under the PVC everywhere:


Messy putting roof tar everywhere, put liner in center, unfold, luckly 99% in correct location, call it good.
Cut center hole, install drain flange, staple at non H20 areas.


Kids were everywhere helping, and dancing afterwards:
(April 13, 2009)


Cement board installed, May 3 - May 12:


Wire reinf mesh cut to size, temp installed.
I'll be putting 1" constant thickness cement on top the liner, 1/2" cement, then the wire mesh, then 1/2" more cement.


I've made temp inside/outside forms for the cement curb, those are in garage bonus room/woodshop until next weekend memorial Friday, when I float the shower floor and curb same day.

Let's see, I'm still "Loganed" 13 months later....after this bathroom is done I'll finally work on the HT side wall acoustic panels, once those are done then I'll consider the HT done and I can get "de-Loganed", maybe Mid-July?


Happy Memorial weekend to everyone, I've not been posting much in others thread(s) but have been reading them in spare time.

You are welcome - real thanks goes to Ethan W for his guidance, that side detour added a few weeks to the HT build, but are worth it.
IMO riser + broad band bass trap should be on every HT checklist that uses a seat riser in the rear, efficient usage of space.

btw;
I did add rope lights to my riser lip this past April, Marks "The Tupalev Family Home Theater Construction Thread" thread helped http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...9#post15834539.
I posted these comments in Marks thread related to my experience with rope lights:

What I can say 3 months later, nobody has even seen the blue painters tape I used to reduce glare, so it's simple effective and not noticeable.
Works for me then to just leave it as is.

We put them at 30-40% brightness, good balance for that "secure feeling" when pitch black w/o being a distraction.

Too much Star Wars maybe?

How does that song go?

"It's just brotherly love, brotherly love"

They are 18 months apart, 5 and 3 1/2, and push/shove/love/scream/cry/hug all in a span of 15 minutes...

Happy 4th!

Thx guys for compliments on our home, since we are tucked away on private road 1 mile from US23/M59 in Howell/Hartland, most people have not driven by our place.

Maintenance not as bad as some might imagine, I've stained on the top of my 36' ladder and a rent-a-bucket, ($$$'s for a weekend).
Ladder is cheaper but bucket is neater to operate


I'm looking forward to the 6-8 year UV stains under development, right now every 4 years need to re-stain, which means I'll be re-staining either this fall or next spring.
I use the low tech method, 2 gallon garden sprayer with back-brush technique.

Josh;
When we built our log home in 2001-2002 we wanted a whole home H20 system, I did research and spent $4.5k on a Ecosmarte whole home salt free system.
>>Look here for my blog and issues with that Issues & Problems with EcoSmarte POE whole home system

Cliff notes: We wasted $4.5 k

I should update that thread, in Nov-2007 we bought a salt based H20 softener, we kept the whole home carbon and Iron tanks in the loop since I paid for them already. Cost me $200 to have them re-loaded. H20 tastes top notch everywhere. However I did add reverse-osomis system for the kitchen sink, I like the idea of having "pristine" H20.

The GeoThermal system, besides that pump issue, it rocks saving $$'s.
The GeoPump is by Mammoth......................This relay went bad 1.5 yrs old, warranty replaced.


Hows your monthly bill and savings? I figure mine has just "paid for itself" after 7 years.

I've probably help sell a few telling people how much $$ saved, $165/month averaged total home energy bill.
I stopped monthly tracking after 4 years of data.
Log home GeoThermal System

Some updates to this thread....Someday I'll get off the Logan list also....

Circia May-2009:
Forms for shower curb tried out: Made sure drainage stones correct:


My boys helping mixing cement, Putting 1/2 mortar down, then wire mesh, then top mortar:


Cement forms holding the shower curb, this is where I was May 22, 2009...


then Summer came and ...well outside and not working.. Till Thanksgiving 2009 weekend...
Getting ready to do some tile work, tile bought, layout figured out.
I like putting straight edge for bottom row full tile, my helper doing his share


Mixing thinset, applying full pieces:


btw, I borrowed my brothers wet saw, it had a broken clamp, so I did a makeshift with a bar clamp:


I'd get 3-4 hours work on Saturdays, sometimes, steady but slow:


Now it's New Years, and slowly more tile gets in. Straight edge for bull nose tile on shower wall sides:

continuing with updates....
Oops, my curb held the outside wall, but I did not make the inside wall the correct thickness everywhere, what to do....fix it!


Layout the correct thickness with blue tape, and make a big mess cutting it with circualr saw, talk about dust...


Starting putting curb face tiles on:


I did not like how the cement was around the drain and the back portion, so fine-tuned it with thinset and dry. I also made a simple height jig to help set the inside/outside tile correct height, work perfect:


Shower floor tile all installed, this is as of last week 3/6/10.



There is a lotta special cuts made doing this, its only my 2nd tile project ever.
Made some mistakes, but that's DIY, try and learn.

Next up: I'm prepping for grouting the shower walls and floor. Then install shower glass. Tile the bath floor, install toilet, sink cabinet, make sink top, etc.
Possible Easter weekend will be bathroom grand opening, depends on "distractions".

Once this bath/shower done, then back to the Home Theatre and making the side wall acoustic panels for 1st order reflections....
Yes this is a HT/Basement build thread in a Home Theater forum....

I was very-very dis-appointed at my salt-free whole home conditioning system not working, seriously.
When the proven technology is there I'll re-visit it.
I've toyed with posting the S&V thread here (condensed version) in its own thread, some people may have experienced other technology that works. I've searched the web but nothing really promising has turned up.


Thx, I've read/posted in lots of build thread here, hopefully helping others along the way. I've been helped countless times reading threads.
Wealth of knowledge and helpful people here.

Just call me the slow and steady turtle....more 2010 progress

Grouting the shower; March 28 weekend


Here's where I ran into trouble, water leakage showed on the floor, I thought wtf?
Appeared of all the copper joints I sweated 5+ years ago and tested 1 was a cold solder joint. These were on full pressure that time, but possible the vibrations from tile install caused that 1 marginal solder joint to fail?
I tell ya, I was so careful to sweat all my joints "hot", have the solder wick correctly, yet somehow this one was bad....
Luckily I could get to it from backside (bedroom side), fixed it. April 17-May 8.


Here is the bad sweat joint after removing some drywall during inspection, the top 90 deg is bad.
Fixed it by cutting above, heat up/remove, install new clean pipe with in-line coupler. sweating in closed box required heat shields, I used old putty knives.


Installed the shower doors, May 30

then start tiling the floor.

I had the crack isolation membrane left over from 8 years earlier tiling the 2nd floor master bath, used it here to ensure no cracks and also added some insulation from cement floor.


These big pieces go down quickly, July 4th weekend:


Install the shut off valves for the sink/toilet, I like the sweat ones better than compression fitted ones, to each their own. July 11.


more pictures to come...

Bath completed 3 weeks ago, picts.




Mother in law is happy, now she'll sleep in downstairs bedroom.

I'll have to re-visit the Logan thread, I'm DONE so time to graduate from that list....
If I could edit the thread title would need to change it to (6 year project done in 2010).

Side note:
This is also timely, with home mortgage interest rates at lowest levels I actually yesterday started re-fi process.
Prior re-fi (April-2009) this bath was not counted into home appraisal, not done, but now done so it should add value to appraisal.
My April 2009 re-fi was 25 year @ 4.75%, now going to 15 year at 3.75%, a no brainer. Crappy economy good for one thing, low mortgage rates.