WWYD? Hunt Family Theater

Project is finished. Here are INITIAL screenshots of the home-theater before the screen, seating, final equipment went in. Final pictures can be found here - http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...#post18094233:










Here's the original beginning of the thread:

Am finishing a 1,500 foot basement and am now at the stage of ready to begin the "hard stuff" with the home-theater room.

Our goals for the room are:

• Mainly movie watching
• 92 or 100in screen for a projector
• Center, Right, and Left speakers free-standing, surrounds in the walls
• Room for five family members
• 5.1 surround; 7.1 if possible (but room size may be an issue)
• Leave back open to open up the room to bar area of the basement (see photos)
• Manage sound as our master bath is over the bar area (room adjacent to the HT room)

Room measurements:

• Length - 15ft
• Width - 12ft
• Ceiling - Almost 9 feet
• Soffit Height (around entire room) - 8 ft

Room framing is completed (metal and wood) framing, and all outlets/wiring has been run. HVAC and plumbing complete. Electrical is complete with a Grafik Eye 3104 (4 zones) in place. All ethernet, speaker (7.1 is run), subwoofer, audio & video, and IR has been run. I did everything except the HVAC and plumbing.

Major issues under consideration for this week are:
- What to insulate with? Immediate thoughts are mix of R13 on the sides, then R25 in ceiling. R13 would go in soffit areas.
- What can I prepare for prior to drywall?
- What special considerations should be taken considering the back is open to the bar area?
- What to prepare for in cleaning up the acoustics of the room? Been reading the acoustics thread quite a bit lately.

Basically, What Would You Do?! (WWYD)

Would appreciate the guidance, and I'll post more photos as it progresses.

Here's entrance to the room, from the bar area - door is 62in in width:


Front of the room where screen will sit:


Right side with rack placement in the back right corner:


Left side, back of the room:


Rack - patiently awaiting drywall:


Projector placement - to the right is a 20amp line for it, and to the left is the 15amp line for the dimmable rope lighting that will go in the tray ceiling.

I've wired the basement plus the main floor of the house with a combined ethernet & 16/4 speaker wire for a planned Russound CAA66L system. That's the bulk of the wiring. Here's the picture of the inside of the closet:




Let's put it this way, Monoprice just upgraded me for discounts!


In addition I have:

- Projector cabling - every cable possible for it - I know it's overkill, and most likely few will get used except the 2xHDMI;
- Have an HDMI ran to the FRONT of the room in conduit in case that 100in plasma drops in price (ha!);
- Another HDMI for a bar-based PLASMA (future);
- Few audio inputs for the Russound system;
- 2xethernet, 1xtelephone, 2xcable (purpose is for networking, and for a HTPC) - multiple coax will permit lots of recording the the HTPC. I also have a 1.25TB server so you can imagine, I'm into the networking; and
- finally, I have a side panel for connecting random equipment easily to the system. It sits close to where the seating will be.

Here's a screenshot of the side input panel in the HT room:



IMHO, one can never have enough wiring. Let's hope it gets used!

Brief update for everyone. I ripped out the plastic barrier between the metal studs and the poured concrete wall. I replaced it with cut strips of 0.5 in polystyrene. I then greatstuff'd between the polystyrene. See below for a final photo. Here's the thread in case you're curious (thanks to all): http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=997968

The issue will definitely go into the thread of "What I'd Do Differently Next Time!"

Moving on:
I've been insulating like hell across 1,300 sq feet of basement using mix of R-19 for the 2x6s, R-13 for the 2x4s, and R-30 for the ceiling. In addition, I've received several quotes on 4,200sq feet of drywall that needs to be done. I anticipate selecting a guy this week, with a start date of April 1.

Here's my dilemma/questions on the HT room with respect to insulation:
- Based on the size, 15ft length x 12ft width, (mostly poured concrete all around (except for 1/3 of left side and the rear), what should I add to the interior of the walls for insulation? See above photos.

- I was thinking R-19 in the 2x6s in the rear, but then adding mineral wool. Might be better to add another layer of drywall if that's the case.

- I'm already going with 5/8 drywall in the HT room. Should I go with 2 sheets of 1/2 all the way around? Will I get much in return of 2 sheets vs. 5/8. I'm not planning on GreenGlueing.

- I am going to build sound-panels of OC703 on the sides (need to research if linacoustic goes on bottom, then OC703 on top - seems like I've read that), then put in OC703 bass triangle traps for the corners.

Latest photos of the HT build:

Ceiling R-30 and polystyrene for sides:


Installed Grafilk Eye 3104 and installed rack rails (with DVD shelf) in the framing:


Better picture of the polystyrene with Great Stuff:

I know what you're saying (and I've been asking myself the same). To be honest, part of me isn't sure on the actual projector and I figured that with the well-priced wires from one of our favorite sponsors, I might as well put them in.

If you look at the rack pictures, do you see the purple wires - those are combo cat5e & 16/4 speaker wire for complete in-home audio system. Think I've got about 10+ of those ran into the speaker cabinet!

So had to snap these photos of the basement and the home-theater with the drywall going in. Haven't posted any information on this, but the HT build is part of a larger finishing basement project. About 1,300 feet is being finished - office, playroom, bar area, bedroom, and bathroom.

I got about five quotes on the drywall, going with least expensive one. It's amazing what a team of drywallers can do. They ended up hanging the whole basement in a day, then on the second day they put first layer of mud down along with all corners. This is one aspect of the basement that I'm glad to have outsourced.

Also, purchased three cases of GG for the 15x12 home-theater placed between sheets of 1/2 sheetrock. We did it together on the ceiling, soffits, walls, and then the exterior wall of the entrance to the HT

This is the new office (previous owners had a drop ceiling in it):


Bedroom/closet:


Bathroom with toilet (and yes a urinal) :


Home theater - notice the smattering of green glue against the wall where the scren goes!!!!!!!


Rack and Grafik Eye (they survived the drywalling):


Entrance to the HT leading to the bar area and then the playroom:


Bar area with a roughly built bar. Did this with bar plans online. Notice the green tubes?



Playroom:

Latest update:
- Cleaned up the drywall, vacuumed up the dust off the soffits, walls, and floors with my Rigid vacuum (special drywall dust filter got clogged easily and often)
- Sherwin Williams had a good sale going on last weekend, and picked up 15 gallons of wall primer for fresh sheet rock, two gallons of grey primer for the HT, and five gallons of white paint for ceilings

Bought this fun tool to get it done - thank you Costco!


Here are pics of primered HT and some of the bar area:






Next steps:
- Paint ceilings
- Install ceiling speakers for multiroom sound
- Have drywaller do some slight cleanup on some areas of the installed sheetrock
- Choose colors for the rooms and the HT. If you have any suggestions, let me know.
- Begin painting rooms

Think I'm done with the sprayer as it got the job done for prepping the walls. Now will use the roller attachment on the ceilings and a brush for cutting.

Received speakers for the ceiling for the other rooms throughout the house. I ordered Phoenix Gold ATC6DMs in bar area, as well as rest of basement. Here's some unpacking and shots of them. Let's hope these will fill the rooms sufficiently with good music.

Yes. Have the bar area, playroom, bedroom, bath, and office to paint with the 5-gallons. For the HT, am definitely going with a dark color - leaning towards black (matte) or something that will minimize fingerprints, but also have that flat look.

Seems like I read on some paint that was matte instead of flat that met those conditions.

Yeah, gotta put the pre-K son to work when I can - I mean someone has to instill the 'puritan work ethic into the kid!

For the rack, I simply installed rails into the 2x4s (cut grooves). I then screwed few drywall screws through the 2x4 into the rail holes. Now, you're probably wondering WHY did I have to put them in grooves of the 2x4s as opposed to placing them on the inside of the frame.

Well...... I ended up being little short in width on the rack space, and the individual shelves would not fit if I had put the rails on the interior of the 2x4s (design issue - needs to go into the thread of "What I would Do Differently Next Time!")

Yes, ran conduit from the rack area to the projection. You can see in the photos of the back of the rack, you'll see two gray electrical conduits.

Thanks guys - more to come once I get through the anguish of picking paint colors!!!!!!!!

Activity over the summer:
- Primed and painted - choosing colors took some weekends, gotta love it.
- I sprayed the primer throughout and also the ceiling paint, then power-rolled the paint on. Three colors chosen: Rustic City, Safari, and Olive something Green from Sherwin Williams. Two coats needed.
- Painted HT ceiling and soffits with black flat paint from Sherwin Williams.
- Installed all final lighting and outlets, including 2x20amps for bar and ht
- Upper- and Lower-bar lights are working, dim perfectly
- Vent registers installed - painted the HT and office ones
- Used Sherwin Williams satin black to spray paint the can lights and vent register for the HT - took 2-3 coats, worked great
- Lot more I can write about that got done - in due time

Next Steps
- Install purchased insulation for HT - will publish how I did that
- Complete installation of doors - will publish my thoughts on that with photos
- Purchase fabric for HT
- Complete installation of 1in furring strips for HT
- Begin crown and baseboard installation
- Continue door installation throughout - 8 sets (mix of single and double doors, window, pre-prime, pine)
- Complete 7xwindow jambs, caulk, paint, etc.

Latest photos for your enjoyment:

Playroom - complete except for crown, base, window jambs and carpet





Bar photos - complete except for crown, base, window jamb, and some sort of hardwood glued to concrete or tile. Oh and I need to finish that bar that I built!


Lowe's lighting:


20 amp outlet, plumbing, and a dimmable outlet that dims with the lights above the bar - for lower bar lights (yes, I know this is against code!)


HT closet:




Bathroom - Need to complete tile for floor and shower, crown, wainscoting, baseboard, shower valve, urinal, and toilet.






I hate crown already - my first attempt ever on bathroom cabinets...


Tight assembly on the sink, notice the flex tubing I had to use to complete the assembly of the drain.


Close-up of the sink for your enjoyment.


Office - need base, crown, carpet, final door and window jambs - going for a stained burgandy look in here similar to the bathroom cabinets.


Double doors that I installed (wife helped) - contributing to the Home Depot stock price!


Home-theater with the beginning of 1in furring strips. Will go into detail on this real soon for everyone's enjoyment. Going with a 100in screen, will be hanging furring strips to support a Carada screen.




Thick door jamb with four layers of 1/2 in drywall separate by GG, and 1in furring strip.


Main hallway - needs carpet, base, and crown.


Bedroom - needs carpet, baseboard, crown, double entry doors, and closet louver doors.


Close-up of Lutron lighting and dual fan/light:


Thanks for looking.

Made progress over the weekend, and got the sound insulation in place. Feel free to critique the install - using OC703, linacoustic-equivalent, and poly batting.

Here's front of the theater - front wall with linacoustic and bass traps. Two sets of boards in the center are for hanging the screen, along with ability to move the screen up/down if needed.




Closeup of the traps. I put 1in furring strips on the sides, then sprayed the strips with a spray-on glue to hold the triangles in place.




Spray-on adhesive from the big orange box - used this with the linacoustic-like material and the two layers of poly batting, works like a charm:




Side of home theater - linacoustic-like about 47 in high, slightly above the ear, then two layers of poly batting from Jo-Ann Fabrics (double it up to get approx 1in of thickness).




7.1 side and back speakers are in at sitting ear level. Due to the fact that I can't install bass traps in the back of the theater, I put in 1in layer of OC703 in the back. Any thoughts on this? Or, should I go with the linacoustic-like material.






Sound sealant for sealing the outlets. I've got 5 large tubes left - time to sell leftover materials.




Need to complete back insulation, not sure what to use - am thinking poly batting above the OC-703.




On good note, Russound CAA66L came in - working great, 6 sources, 6 zones.




Only the Russound is in place in the cabinet, and the wires are already taking over. Have ordered some help from Monoprice to help organize the wires.




Leftover OC703 - think I overbought by an extra 4x8 sheet, possibly two!






I used table saw outside to cut the OC-703. Went very fast, wore gloves, mask, eyeglasses. Strongly recommend this method.




Leftover linacoustic-like material - need to sell this along with the 5 large tubes of sealant. Am guessing I've got 50 feet by 47in tall. Any takers in the Atlanta area?



Thanks for viewing, next steps are to get fabric in place.

Wire is the one that's available from Monoprice, likely not CL2. Speaker wire is CL2. No permits.

SatelliteGuy - Correct on your assumptions. Exactly:
- On Front Wall, GOM or equivalent, one top application, then one bottom application - there will be a seam running horizontally between the two applications, but it will be minimal. No chair rail applied.
- On sides, same dark or black GOM as front wall up to the chair rail. Then, apply a different fabric (patterned) on the upper part of the walls. Chair rail will be applied between the two types of fabrics.

I just got the bathroom (tiled), and the bar area (8-foot bar and wood laminate) installed/completed, so the HT has taken a 'back seat to these activities. I'll post photos of the theater once I make more progress.


Finally, the vanity and linen closet came from Home Depot. The actual marble sink/top came from Home Depot Expo.

Easy questions, the 1" exact furring strips came from Home Depot as well. Hopefully, they carry them in your area. I've seen others post that other HDs also carry them.

The outlet boxes are those that can be adjusted in/out because they have a screw on the side (also HD). This allowed me to adjust to the 1in of dry wall, and the 1 in of furring strips.

I used a simple Tough As Nails glue to attach the strips around the outlet box.

Basement bath and bar area has been taking up my time. Added laminate flooring and almost completed the bar. That HT is getting 'tackled next after some final baseboard/crown/window trim cleanup.








Here's the tiling of the bathroom/shower and the wainscoting for the future urinal and toilet: