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4 8 inch subs in a bass tower

post #1 of 15
Thread Starter 
I'm in the early planning stages of builing a sub for my basement and wanted to bounce a few ideas arround.

It will be an HT sub 80% of the time. I dont need super bass just some low end for a more realistic feel. My room is 13w x 28d x 8h. I'm plan on building some LRC and some surrounds down the road.(simple MT's)

Looks are important. I've seen some interesting cherry cabinets with silver speakers on the gallery above and want somthing like that(mine will be veneer). I also like the taller speakers and thought that four 8 inch sub woofers would give me the sound and look I am going for. I would also consider 2 subs and 2 PRs.

Somethings I'm concerned about.

Can a plate amp push 4 subs?
Can I get to the low frequencies with this type of set up?
Am I going to pay much more for this set up then I would if I just used a single 10 or 12? (trying to keep this below 400)
I'm not sure what the internals will look like with 4 subs?
do I need to port?
What 8" inch sub is correct for this type of set up?
What type of amp is correct fo this set up?

I haven't seen to many 8" sub designs here so I wanted to post

This is my firt post in the DIY forum. So let me know if I left off any important info.
post #2 of 15
You are much better off from a price/performance perspective to use the largest driver you can manage. You'll notice on here that the vast majority of builds on here are with 15s with a lot more 18s starting to show up now that a number of manufacturers are making quality 18s. Generally when comparing drivers of similar quality there won't be a huge difference in the price of the driver, certainly not enough to offset the displacement difference between say an 8" and a 15".
post #3 of 15
Quote:
Originally Posted by 1990jacket View Post

I haven't seen to many 8" sub designs here so I wanted to post

Are you thinking about something similar to this: http://www.angelfire.com/jazz/noidster/fourplaysub.htm

The best 8" sub is going to be the Tang Band W8-740P at PE http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showd...number=264-854

Yes, you will pay more by going with 8's. No problem driving them with a plate amp.

However, one of the best deals going right now are the 10" NPT-11-075-2's @20 bucks each and the MCM 300 watt plate amp's @$89.95 each.
http://home.comcast.net/~jhidley/
http://www.mcminone.com/

I would recommend you build two boxes - 3 10" subs in each box. You'll need six subs and two amps. Height should be about the same as 4 eights.
post #4 of 15
Thread Starter 
Yep, thanks, I've been looking for and example
Anglefire has something similar to what i was looking for. and the parts express gave me the idea of actually doing it. I'm just curious of the trad offs. of doing 8's vs a 12 or a 10.

Not sure I would do 2 cabnets but 3 tens sounds a decent trade to 4 eights.
post #5 of 15
Warmon how would you wire the 3 subs for the plate amp? (sorry not trying to hijack your post) What size enclosure are you talking about? demensions?
post #6 of 15
Thread Starter 
good call. I dont think many plate amps are stable below 4ohm.

are you a UGA dawg???
post #7 of 15
Warmon,

Do you have a box design for something like this?

3 x 10'' subs and 300 watt plate amp would be less than $200 per box.

What kind of output would you expect and what frequencies?
post #8 of 15
Nice prices...
post #9 of 15
Hi guys,

I don't want to hijack 1990jacket's thread on the 4 8's either, so let's start a new one for designs...been wanting to start one anyway. Briefly though, I'd wire the three subs paralell. Here's why. Re is roughly 9.5ohms. Nominal impedance [Znom] would be labeled as 12 by some, however WinISD calculates Znom as 14. Depending on who you believe above, nominal impedance for three in parallel is between 4 - 4.6ohms. This mates up well with most amps - including the MCM. WinISD shows the impedance actually stays well above this throughout the entire curve...it's all good!

1990jacket, if you go with the TB-W8-740P's, you are gonna want to wire them series/parallel to get 4ohms nominal. This site has some nice calculators: http://www.bcae1.com/spkrmlti.htm

Zordac, how does 109db @ 20hz and top out around 115db sound? You can get that in 8cf @ 22hz tune with 3 subs / 300watts.
post #10 of 15
Thread Starter 
Warmon, nice link. good learning materials there for newbies like me.

I've tried to model a few of these in WinISB but am not haveing any luck. what size box would I need for the 8's. I want it to be as tall and narrow as possible. Also want it to be ported.
Any links for what the Q's, L's, A's, B's, Etc mean. I've been using a Dayton 8 to model my box since I cant find the Tang Bang as a preload in WinISB. Also, I am not sure which Dayton 8 that means considering PE sell 3 different ones($ ranges from 19 to 91)

What size port would I need for these designs? I think I it want tuned as low as possible to maximize the low end output. I just dont know how you guys do this.

Oh by the way any silver woofer cones out there at a reasonable price? I could settle for painting the mounting brackets.
post #11 of 15
Hi jacket,

This is where you need to go to get the T/S parameters you'll need for WinISD. http://www.tb-speaker.com/detail/1208_03/w8-740p.htm

When I first got into this diy sub stuff 6-8 months ago, I also wanted to use 8's. I even have two of the TB-W8-740's. After modeling a bazillion times I can tell you 4 of these will be best in a EBS3 alignment - 3cf, tuned to 27hz. This is the best you're gonna get out of them.

I wanted to build a EBS3 quad push push. There's a very similar build here and worth checking out using the MCM 8's: http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...ight=tang+band

This is the plot comparing the 4 TB 8's reg sealed vs 4 8's EBS3 [yellow]




IMO, you are not going to get the results you are after in a room that size with 4-8's. As geoffstgermain has already said, you are gonna need a lot more displacement and 8's aren't a very cost effective way to get there - most folks using 15's or 18's. What I think you need is 2-15's, 4-12's, 6-10's or 8-8's. It's all about SD!! That's why I gave up on the 8's and went with 3-12's - and my room is only 13x16...lot smaller than yours. Sounds like you are gonna build a nice box or boxes [cherry veneer]. It's gonna be a lot of work and you might as well do it right the first time.
LL
post #12 of 15
Thread Starter 
I've decided to go with a single 12". But want as slim a cabinet as possible. What can I get away with. I can go tall. ( This will allow me to use as a front firing or put on it back to be up firing behind a couch)

I still want as much pressure from the sub as possible as will looking for around 300-500 watts of power from plate amp.

Slight update on the room. The listening space is only 13x15x8 the back of the room is an office stairs and a hallway . I'll try to attach a sketch later.
post #13 of 15
Single 12-You might consider building 2 in a room your size. Check Rythmikaudio.com for some kits including the silver drivers you mentioned. you can build 2 of these for less than the cost of 1 quality commercial sub-Good luck!
post #14 of 15
Thread Starter 
2 Rythmics

I'm budgeting around $400 for sub+amp+extras considering i'll be upgrading my TV, Speakers, DVD, cabinets, chairs etc during this coming year. So, at this time a single Rythmic servo kit is even a stretch. I would like to add a second but feel that I would have great subs and under matched everything else and blow my budget. By this time next year I should be ready to add a second sub if I feel it's undersized. I just need to make sure that I go with a combo that will be around for a while if I want to build a matching set up next year.

At this point this is still an open discussion. so I'm revisiting all options and am open to all suggestion that are not a cube with a huge driver in the middle or a huge sono tube. those will not get the WAF.
post #15 of 15
No need to have an ugly ol' cube. Do a search on end table and coffee table. Pick some designs you like and show them to the wife. Subs as furniture is good way kill two birds...
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