Queen's Future HT - Page 6

18, wanted them to be similiar in scale to the fronts which are 20.

OC = on center. Measured from the centers of each stud.

That is something that only your installer could tell you. Hopefully when the Cedia dust settles he will be more communicative. If it was my build I'd be going down the frames and Velcro path.

You may want to e-mail him my sketch because he may want some braces in other locations for stapling.

Looking at the pics I don't see a power outlet on the screen wall. Needed for your sub. Also didn't see any special acoustical insulation you mentioned a while back.

If you are talking about the pink panther making the quiet sign it is basically pink fiberglass insulation without any vapor barrier. Available at home depot and should not cost more than the regular stuff.

read:http://newsgroups.derkeiler.com/Arch.../msg03220.html

Put the outlet on the wall like a regular outlet.

Assuming you are doing acoustic wall treatments I'm not aware of any requirements to put the column at the first reflection point.

Besides the first reflection point will actually be a fairly wide zone based on your choice of seat location.

Whoa.

2x4 framing for the ceiling ..no way.

Let's step back and talk about what it takes for a Drywall ceiling. First look at your ceiling you have pipes and that new 4 inch Steel support hanging down from the bottom of ceiling joists.



The challenge is to build a support system either rigid or decoupled (RSIC clips and channel) that hangs barely lower than the lowest thing in the way. In your case that looks like that new steel beam.

The easiest rigid way of doing this is to add 4 1/2 inches of furring strips and that is a lot. You could screw up 3 layers of 2x4s running perpendicular to the ceiling joists and parallel to the pipes and beam. space them every 16 inches and you've got a rigid structure to mount drywall to.

Now the most sound deadening method (non rigid) is to mount metal hat channel on RSIC clips. The clips provide an isolation benefit reducing sound transfer via vibration. They make a clip that has a rubber grommet and also a cheaper one without. You should as Ted his advice on which clips work best.

Again you need to mount the clips so that the resulting bottom edge of the hat channel hangs 1/2 inch below the lowest obstacle.

On the dedicated room thread there are a lot of pics of hat channel and clip installs. Here are a couple I grabbed quick





These pics show the use of channel and clips. You should note that using this mounting method will not result in the channel hanging low enough for your application. In your basement additional blocking screwed to the joists will be required, this isn't a big deal. You just need to get the bottom of the channel barely below the lowest object.

The following picture has me really worried that your GC is going down a path to WASTE a whole lot of head room: Why is there a 2x4 hanging below the beam? thats where the ceiling should be. There should be nothing between the beam and the ceiling.




here is the link for the RSIC clips:



http://www.pac-intl.com/

Yes, but if that means lowering the ceiling by 1 1/2 inches you go another route. Assuming you do a double drywall ceiling on the first layer substitute a piece of 5/8 plywood just big enough to span the two adjacent furring strips (or channel) instead of drywall for a 16 x 16 square area or 24 x 24 depending on ceiling support structure. Then cover it up with the second layer.

for the non-rigid construction the RSIC clips and hat channel take 1 5/8 inch of head room. See:
http://www.pac-intl.com/cad/RSIC-1_CAD.pdf

So if you add two blocks of 2x4 s screwed to the bottom of the floor joists at the clip locations you would have 1 1/2 + 1 1/2 + 1 5/8 = 4 5/8. If your lowest obstacle is 4 inches your drywall will clear by 5/8 inch. Just about perfect.

Sistering usually means putting two flat sides together. I'm talking about attaching two 6 inch blocks of 2x4 to the bottom edge of the joist. Flat side against the bottom of the joist.

There is probably another way of screwing something to the side of the joists that hangs down 3 inches that you can screw into and your GC may have some ideas.

There is a table at the Pac Intl. web site regarding how many clips you should use. It is surprisingly few. Not at every joist. In fact the fewer you use the better the sound isolation. you just need enough so it holds up the double drywall. I thing Don Kellogg's Pic actually show how few you need. I think he used triple layers of DW as well.

On the two 6 inch blocks that is just one idea, there must be others and you should talk to your GC.

The JVC will be on my short list for my HT 2.0 upgrade. Perhaps you will be advising me.

Have you verified that 4 inches is the lowest hanging obstacle. You need to check that white drain pipe.

If you have purchased RSIC clips, you need to make sure that the GC understands the concept of the RSIC clips and Channel. What ever he uses to drop 3 inches needs to accept the RSIC clip and be secure.

He should use a rotary laser level when setting the clips to get everything lined up nice and straight.

You might want to print this out and give to him:

http://www.pac-intl.com/pdf/comparison_booklet.pdf

gooey.

video on their web site:http://www.soundproofingcompany.com/

Good looking job on the drywall.

In that last picture how are they planning to hide that bundle of wires at the ceiling? Crown molding? Dropping the ceiling 7/8 inch with hat channel?

Bass traps are constructed inside the drywalled room. Those triangles of insulation stacked in BritinVAs two front corners are base traps. Mark used recycled denim, some guys use compressed fiberglass.



Bass "trap" is a little misleading. It's not a trap to keep bass from leaving the room. It's an acoustical treatment to even out the bass response inside the room. Bpape is one of the guys to turn to for recommendations and to write a check for the material. See sensiblesoundsolutions.com