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Queen's Future HT - Page 11

post #301 of 1591
Sorry to hear about your Uncle.

Just in case you missed this news on your projector.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1083509
post #302 of 1591
Thread Starter 
Thanks BIG.

Yes, just spoke with my HT guy today. As luck would have it, delivery will coincide exactly during the time when I will be taking my daughter and son to Disneyworld so my install date will be pushed back a week but YES, it will be a very merry Christmas after all. Now I've got to get moving on the carpet. Carpet for the HT already chosen but I need to choose a runner asap for the stairs so that they can be installed at the same time before HT install. Equally important, I also have to order my GOM and linacoustic.

Regarding the furring strips around the LG Art Cool, asked HT guy about that and he remarked that the GC will likely have to put up some kind of trim (maybe like the quarter molding?) since the unit flanks out at around 45 degrees making it nearly impossible to be able to hide the staples. Any other ideas on trim around it to hide the staples?
post #303 of 1591
Got a close-up pic?
post #304 of 1591
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

Got a close-up pic?

Ok, here are a few shots of the LG from different angles.









Also, finally got a couple chairs down there to do some testing. Front row of seats runs around 125" which you can see on the tape measure. They are exactly 12' back (eyes to screen) but still seems awfully close to me. For the front row I'm cheating a little since I only have 29" to work with so I'm doing 9" on the side closest to the equipment closet and 20" for the aisle. Back row is even worse with only 15" collectively to work with so I just split it right down the middle and accounted for 7.5" on each side. Seats sure will be VERY close to those surround speakers. I know that my room is really sized for six chairs but four is perfect for our family and eight for a second family.

Still not sure of the riser (currently at just over 10" but calculator tells me 11 3/8") since we threw two more boards on top (extra 1 1/2") and my husband's head was still in my way. Originally incorrectly assumed carpet and pad would give more height-yes it does-but it does for the front row as well so it's effectively a wash. Also took pictures from the left rear seating position to test out that line of sight from the proscenium. I actually think I can get away with it as is, but perhaps I'm not considering everything. Not sure of how the crown will affect viewing either since I planned on crown for the proscenium as well.





post #305 of 1591
I would skip the crown on the screen wall, you would really need to paint it black anyway to avoid the distraction so why bother.

Looking at that wall unit, just thinking out loud. is it possible to temporarily hold it off the wall a couple of inches put furring and fabric behind the unit and re-attach it sitting on top of the furring sitting an inch forward? That would probably give you a little better air flow and a more finished look.

Other wise there are a number of molding choices and I think I would go with a very narrow simple window/door case molding painted to match the fabric as close as possible. You should also paint the gap from the furring to the wall unit so that the white doesn't peak out.

I like ATW B13 here:

post #306 of 1591
On your screen size and seating distance it only seems too close because you are used to watching TV. Go to a real theater and see how much of your field of vision is consumed by the size of a commercial screen. You screen will look tiny in comparison.
post #307 of 1591
Queendvd2,

Your build is looking great. I'm jealous (You'll soon be watching movies and i will still be making sawdust).

Quick question: what is the dimension of your riser for the back row seating, especially the depth from front edge to the back wall?

My wife just surprised me; after dragging her to the basement for a monthly progress "show-and-tell" >> she actually suggested that we need to add a riser for the back row (I didn't expect this I was going to go with some form of bar stools and tall cocktail table) !
post #308 of 1591
Our riser is 8" (2x8 + 3/4" plywood) and we find it JUST tall enough to see over the front row if the front row is not reclined at all. It's even better when the front row is reclined somewhat. We have Berkline 13175's for seats.

If I could do it again, I'd do a 10" riser, but overall, what I have is workable.
post #309 of 1591
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by cuzed2 View Post



Quick question: what is the dimension of your riser for the back row seating, especially the depth from front edge to the back wall?

It's exactly 8' from the front edge of the riser to the back wall. Width runs entire room, at just shy of 14' once you take the furring strips into consideration.
post #310 of 1591
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

I would skip the crown on the screen wall, you would really need to paint it black anyway to avoid the distraction so why bother.

Do you really think it will be a visual distraction? I was once again 'borrowing' from Uptown's design and had planned to paint it to match the trim color in the HT.

post #311 of 1591
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post


Looking at that wall unit, just thinking out loud. is it possible to temporarily hold it off the wall a couple of inches put furring and fabric behind the unit and re-attach it sitting on top of the furring sitting an inch forward? That would probably give you a little better air flow and a more finished look.

I'll have to consult the GC about that. I agree though, it would be a much cleaner look without having to put some kind of trim around it. I don't think the trim would interfere with the airflow however, as the sides open up like a small aircraft shuttle. It's pretty cool. Speaking of which, I'll have to make sure whatever design is used that it does not interfere with those sides opening up. And thanks for the molding pics.
post #312 of 1591
Thread Starter 
So any thoughts about needing to shave the proscenium an inch or so. Based on this photo do you think it's still necessary?

post #313 of 1591
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by jamis View Post

Our riser is 8" (2x8 + 3/4" plywood) and we find it JUST tall enough to see over the front row if the front row is not reclined at all. It's even better when the front row is reclined somewhat. We have Berkline 13175's for seats.

If I could do it again, I'd do a 10" riser, but overall, what I have is workable.

Interesting. Not sure if it has to do with the different chair models or perhaps the fact that I'm quite petite. As I stated above, I currently have just over 10" on the riser but the calculator specified 11 3/8".
post #314 of 1591
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

On your screen size and seating distance it only seems too close because you are used to watching TV. Go to a real theater and see how much of your field of vision is consumed by the size of a commercial screen. You screen will look tiny in comparison.

I told my husband we'll sit in the front row for the 2.35 movies and the second row (which is the better row for audio) for 1.69 ones.
post #315 of 1591
Quote:
Originally Posted by queendvd2 View Post

Do you really think it will be a visual distraction? I was once again 'borrowing' from Uptown's design and had planned to paint it to match the trim color in the HT.

oops, I re-read your question I thought your were thinking above the screen, I don't see any crown above the screen in Uptown's theater. Proscenium yes.
post #316 of 1591
Thread Starter 
Ok, thanks to another poster who gave me the Johns Manville locator and BIG's instruction to search on HVAC I was able to find a shop that sells linacoustic retail. Best part is it's only 15 minutes from my house.

So that's the good news. But here's my dilemna...how much linacoustic should I use? There are various respected acousticians here who have very divergent views. Treating the entire front wall and side walls right up to the proscenium are a given, but what should I do for the sides and rear? For the sides, do linacoustic for 5' from floor and then just 'air' for the rest (though I am unsure how the fabric does not sag without support) or 5' and the rest cotton batting (too deadening?) or linacoustic just up to chair rail and then air/batting above?

Treat entire back wall with linacoustic or 2" OC703? Bass traps on the front corners-am I crazy to think I can get away with not doing this?

And by the way, had no idea how expensive the GOM would run-probably need around 40 yards total. For the linacoustic, will one big 100" roll (47.5" wide) be enough for my room?
post #317 of 1591
Thread Starter 
Forgot to mention this as well. I had read that it's ideal to place all the tweeters of the front speakers at the same height or at least within 2" of eachother. How can I achieve this when my center will be just below the bottom of my screen? My L and R speakers would have to placed pretty low within the proscenium.

Speaking of which, any thoughts on whether to shave that proscenium to make it tighter to each wall?
post #318 of 1591
GOM is 66 inches wide and sold by the lineal yard. FR701 is now $14.10 at fabricmate.com.

The one size fits all solution for walls is debatable. You can use poly batting wherever you don't put linacoustic.

Did you read the FAQ acoustical treatments? or the master acoustical treatment thread. If you want to get out your checkbook you can ask Brian (bpape).
post #319 of 1591
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

GOM is 66 inches wide and sold by the lineal yard. FR701 is now $14.10 at fabricmate.com.

The one size fits all solution for walls is debatable. You can use poly batting wherever you don't put linacoustic.

Did you read the FAQ acoustical treatments? or the master acoustical treatment thread. If you want to get out your checkbook you can ask Brian (bpape).

Yes, indeed, read the FAQ. Spoke to both 'experts' and both have very different views. Curious whether others who have done the linacoustic up to 5' and then the batting like their room or think it's too dead. Can you tell which route I want to go.
post #320 of 1591
Thread Starter 
Ok, I am seriously reconsidering going CIH with the cinescope screen. BIG, could I trouble you for a redesign idea for that front wall since I would effectively lose my great proscenium? Having trouble visualizing how my chair rail would meet that front wall. I'm thinking that there has to be some kind of mini proscenium or something that keeps the chair from hitting the front wall.
post #321 of 1591
amazing job so far. looks awesome!
post #322 of 1591
Quote:
Originally Posted by queendvd2 View Post

Ok, I am seriously reconsidering going CIH with the cinescope screen. BIG, could I trouble you for a redesign idea for that front wall since I would effectively lose my great proscenium? Having trouble visualizing how my chair rail would meet that front wall. I'm thinking that there has to be some kind of mini proscenium or something that keeps the chair from hitting the front wall.

How wide of screen? Need a dimension before I sketch.
You could make a mini proscenium by just putting a panel sitting at a 45 degree angle in the two outer edges. Start at the sides of the screen and angle out to the sides. Maybe the L/R speakers would fit behind.

There has got to be a way to transition the chair rail. I'm not sure about your comment of a chair hitting the front wall.
post #323 of 1591
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

How wide of screen? Need a dimension before I sketch.
You could make a mini proscenium by just putting a panel sitting at a 45 degree angle in the two outer edges. Start at the sides of the screen and angle out to the sides. Maybe the L/R speakers would fit behind.

There has got to be a way to transition the chair rail. I'm not sure about your comment of a chair hitting the front wall.

Ok, here's the deal. If I want to go cinescope that entails cutting into the drywall ceiling to relocate the HDMI cable and electrical to the new spot just above or slightly behind the second row. This will enable a bigger screen (54"x127"), essentially giving me 31" in additional width without any height loss. In addition, screen would change to and AT SMX and I'd have to pony up big for a lens.

Another alternative is to leave projector in current location and then settle for just 45"x106" because of the short throw on the lens. To me this isn't even an option.

Lastly, keep everything status quo.

Very heavily leaning toward going scope with the bigger screen. Still concerned about that riser height though since then I'd be even more worried about building up the riser now that the projector will be above the riser area.

Will talk with my HT guy again tomorrow and consult about options. So I'll let you know what screen size and then maybe some ideas on what to do with the front? When I referred to the chair hitting the front wall I meant the chair rail just stopping dead at the end of each front left and right walls. Just seemed kind of strange to me, as well as the crown.
post #324 of 1591
Big is better if the projector can handle it.

as for the front design if you are going with an SMX screen you can put the L/R behind the screen and not have to shove them against the wall.

That is good news from a design persecutive as you can do something decorative where the proscenium used to be. How would you feel about a couple of half columns or pilasters? you could run the chair rail right up to the side and it wouldn't look funny.
post #325 of 1591
After having my front area done for the time that I have, I can't help but think about having the cinemascope screen as well. I enjoy the 16x9 for the sports but after sitting here watching a movie I can easily picture the screen going all the way across. A little more planning and knowledge on my part would have helped.... but it's hard to see what you want when you don't have any in person examples around.

Everybodys 16x9 theaters look so nice but the ones having cinemascope with masking options seem to be even nicer. I'm always thinking what if, so good luck with whatever you do and bigsy will always lead you in the right direction.... I'm sure he's updated his software to napkin 3.0 by now so you should be good...

You'll enjoy it no matter what you do... good luck
post #326 of 1591
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

Big is better if the projector can handle it.

as for the front design if you are going with an SMX screen you can put the L/R behind the screen and not have to shove them against the wall.

That is good news from a design persecutive as you can do something decorative where the proscenium used to be. How would you feel about a couple of half columns or pilasters? you could run the chair rail right up to the side and it wouldn't look funny.

You must be reading my mind. Half columns were exactly what I was thinking last night as I paged through Sandman's build but wasn't sure which style since Ruben has all curved ones where I already have the traditional box columns in the rest of the HT. Yes, the LCRs would all go behind and subs likely somewhere below across the front wall. Precisely like that pic you posted all the way on page 2 or 3 when you recommended going AT with that original bump-out. How do you do that...knowing what I will be building even before I do?
post #327 of 1591
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wazzey View Post

After having my front area done for the time that I have, I can't help but think about having the cinemascope screen as well. I enjoy the 16x9 for the sports but after sitting here watching a movie I can easily picture the screen going all the way across. A little more planning and knowledge on my part would have helped.... but it's hard to see what you want when you don't have any in person examples around.

Everybodys 16x9 theaters look so nice but the ones having cinemascope with masking options seem to be even nicer. I'm always thinking what if, so good luck with whatever you do and bigsy will always lead you in the right direction.... I'm sure he's updated his software to napkin 3.0 by now so you should be good...

You'll enjoy it no matter what you do... good luck

Thanks a lot for your comments Mike. As I wrestle with what to do that's what keeps going through my mind-what if and why didn't I do it that way to begin with. If only I had researched more thoroughly then I wouldn't be in this mess or if I had listened to my gut and put the projector where I originally wanted instead of being swayed then this switch would be simple as pie.

But this is what I have to deal with. I know BIG would say cutting open the ceiling isn't a big deal if the GC does his job right but I can't help but think of possibly seeing those tape lines. My husband says just do what you want for the HT and don't worry about the ceiling.

At this point, I don't think I can look back since I'll be kicking myself every time we throw a 2.4 movie in and I see the bars.

Regarding the masking, I won't be further pressuring this build from a monetary perspective by getting a built-in masking system. Most of my viewing for 2.4 movies so I can live with side black bars for HDTV, etc.
post #328 of 1591
Not sure if you were following Tom Logan's threads
but this is the design that evolved from an on-line committee process.



your columns don't have to be that ornate as drawn by the committee.

here are some choices for half columns (you really aren't limited to just halves) :






from:http://www.outwatercatalogs.com/2008...catalog=080135

maybe something in a pilaster style:

http://www.outwatercatalogs.com/2008...age_number=848

http://www.outwatercatalogs.com/2008...age_number=682

http://www.outwatercatalogs.com/2008...age_number=706

http://www.outwatercatalogs.com/2008...catalog=080135
post #329 of 1591
Thread Starter 
Yes, I have been following Logan's and love the design. Can those columns or pilasters simply go from stage floor to top of ceiling (without those soffit boxes on top)? Do they need to be painted? What's great is it will hide my outlets that were put on each side wall. Not sure how the crown will work though since I'm assuming both the crown and chair rail would stop at the column-was hoping that my crown would hide my speaker wires on each side that will now have to be pulled back behind the false wall.

What would you recommend for behind the columns then for the side walls-just black GOM or continue the two shade without the chair??
post #330 of 1591
Thread Starter 
Took the plunge and went scope. Ordered everything except for the screen since I don't know what size works best given my space. HT guy originally recommended 54x127 custom size, but then I asked him why not go to 130 since that's the standard width. After I reminded him that my space was 165" wide he said it would work but then said I should just go 55.3x130. I'm all for the bigger screen but again still very concerned about being able to see from the second row. Riser is only 10" but will be built up another 1 1/2" (leaving very little headroom with an 89" ceiling to start). Since my original screen was only 54" and I was having a tough time seeing the bottom of my blue tape then 55.3" would surely be worse. Posted in the screen forum and am waiting for Ruben to reply but I'd welcome any other advice.

GC will be cutting open the ceiling tomorrow and snaking the wires to the new projector spot. Sounds like an entry for the "What I'd Do Differently" thread.
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