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Queen's Future HT - Page 12

post #331 of 1591
Just another concept for you to mull over. In addition to your plans for maximizing the riser height give your chairs a 1-2 inch "lift". Put something under each leg. You won't notice the difference in sitting or standing and unless someone pointed out to you that the chair was sitting a little higher than the front row you would never know.

Head room is not a factor because all standing is done on the lower level.
post #332 of 1591
Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

Just another concept for you to mull over. In addition to your plans for maximizing the riser height give your chairs a 1-2 inch "lift". Put something under each leg. You won't notice the difference in sitting or standing and unless someone pointed out to you that the chair was sitting a little higher than the front row you would never know.

Head room is not a factor because all standing is done on the lower level.

Yeah... oman321 did something like this by building a mini riser on top of his actual riser to lift just the seats.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...8#post14815638

Might be another option without raising the whole thing.
post #333 of 1591
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

Not sure if you were following Tom Logan's threads
but this is the design that evolved from an on-line committee process.



So, should the column be flush against the front wall or is it placed at a 45 degree angle with the corner? I'm going to be tight on side space going with a 55.3"x130" screen. After factoring in an additional 3 1/4" on each side for the frame, I'm just shy of 14" on each side for columns. According to the specs, columns run about 9 1/2" wide. Is that ok or am I getting too tight? Couldn't tell from the catalogue whether they come in a standard height or are custom sized. Also, do they need to be painted a dark color or can I get away with the same color as my trim but not in a satin finish?

BIG and Jamis, thanks for the input on the riser. I will go ahead and build it up to 11 1/2" and then if necessary take the additional steps you mentioned.
post #334 of 1591
As you recall from Tom's design committee thread I was a proponent of the angled sides. It's purely a personal design choice. If you only have 14 inches putting the sides at an angle gives you a few more inches and I think I would try that out for your space.

Answering another question I think I would build a mini soffit over the tops of the angled sides and columns purely for looks. The columns will need to be painted or Faux finished unless you like primer white. White would be a really bad choice for the front of a theater.

I'll try to make a rough sketch today after I fix the washing machine. Which column design caught your eye?
post #335 of 1591
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

As you recall from Tom's design committee thread I was a proponent of the angled sides. It's purely a personal design choice. If you only have 14 inches putting the sides at an angle gives you a few more inches and I think I would try that out for your space.

Answering another question I think I would build a mini soffit over the tops of the angled sides and columns purely for looks. The columns will need to be painted or Faux finished unless you like primer white. White would be a really bad choice for the front of a theater.

I'll try to make a rough sketch today after I fix the washing machine. Which column design caught your eye?

Definitely like the fluted column (K1001) with either K1111 or K1141 (like Tom's). Wasn't sure which top would facilitate the angle better (I agree with you-for my limited space angled works better). Do they come in a standard height? Just trying to figure out how much room is left for a mini soffit. So it appears that we'll be seeing those side outlets after all. Maybe I'll get those colored plates. I recall your linking to them in another thread.
post #336 of 1591
Been doing some sketching and head scratching.

You may not want to do an angled bit on the sides,
consider putting a half column, located on the side wall in the middle of the segment from the front of the false wall to the lip of the stage.

From the half column to the front wall will be black GOM, same as the false wall. No crown, no chair rail.

This solution gives you a logical place to stop the chair rail, gives a meaning for those wings you built on the stage to support the no longer existing proscenium, and hides the outlets.

You won't need a mini soffit on the ceiling either.

You also might want to look at the bigger half columns on page 635. (see k3001, with k3111 and k2131) We will need to trim 10 inches or so off the bottom of the fluted segment and you will loose a little detail at the bottom .
post #337 of 1591
for reference:


Naked room pretty much to scale with your bigger screen.




Add half column, crown, chair and base molding.

post #338 of 1591
Thread Starter 
Been scratching my head too since after going down below I couldn't figure out how that 45 degree or flush was going to work. So there is no base trim on the stage area right in front of the column?

Also, with my choice of a thick crown, I'll need to be able to find a column top that measures at least 4" in order to measure up with the crown.
post #339 of 1591
I think it would look better without if your guy can do a clean job on the fabric.

As for the top you could always cut out some squares from 3/4 inch MDF and stack on the top to get to your 4 inches. Just make them a little bit bigger on each layer.

A couple of other alternatives that I've been kicking around in my mind. Get a FULL round column and just stand in the corner on the stage.

If you want to do the angled segment, if you come out 10 inches from the corner and put a 45 angle cross piece the cross piece will be 14.1 inches wide (had to look up the formula) which is plenty for the half column.
post #340 of 1591
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post


As for the top you could always cut out some squares from 3/4 inch MDF and stack on the top to get to your 4 inches. Just make them a little bit bigger on each layer.

A couple of other alternatives that I've been kicking around in my mind. Get a FULL round column and just stand in the corner on the stage.

Oh, how clever. My GC surely should have thought up something like that.

For the full columns do you mean place them on the FRONT corner of the stage, where the prosceniums would have stood? Have to decide fairly quickly as the design will affect my GOM order. Will check other builds for ideas and kick around the various ideas you've thrown out. Thanks again BIG!
post #341 of 1591
Quote:
Originally Posted by queendvd2 View Post

For the full columns do you mean place them on the FRONT corner of the stage, where the prosceniums would have stood?

That actually might work but I was thinking of tucking them back into the front corners a bit.
post #342 of 1591
Thread Starter 
With a full round column won't I still have that problem of how to end the chair rail since no part of the middle of the column would be against the wall?

Seems like the half column gives the best design to end crown, chair, hide outlets.

Alternatively, could just leave wide open (get those color match outlet covers) but then crown and chair would just abruptly stop at the corners by the false wall.

How long does it take for GOM to ship? I am leaving for vacation on the 6th so I would need to take delivery before then. Need to decide design quickly.

On a side note, I was showing the GC your last sketch on the computer and he noticed your signature. Mistakenly thinking it was my tag line he got slightly offended...LOL.
post #343 of 1591
If you went with the full column in the corner I would imagine you just run the moldings and fabric to the corner and the transition to the front wall will be hidden in the shadows.

GOM orders are received in 5 working days if your color is in stock at GOM. Order fulfillment is from GOM direct. Be sure to order more than enough of each color. Allow at least 10% extra from your measurements.
post #344 of 1591
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

If you went with the full column in the corner I would imagine you just run the moldings and fabric to the corner and the transition to the front wall will be hidden in the shadows.

GOM orders are received in 5 working days if your color is in stock at GOM. Order fulfillment is from GOM direct. Be sure to order more than enough of each color. Allow at least 10% extra from your measurements.

Maybe I'll just go that route because those full columns could easily be added after the fact, while the half columns on the sides have to be incorporated in today's design, framing, GOM, etc. So for now, will follow your 'naked' sketch but just add in the crown, chair rail (both to the corner) and base trim ending at the front of the stage.
post #345 of 1591


I think the widest column the space can handle looks the best.
post #346 of 1591
Thread Starter 
Thanks for the new sketch. I actually like the base trim on the stage, but we'll see how well the HT guy can pull the fabric down by the carpet. If there's spacing then I'll add the base trim.

I know in another thread you gave a link for those outlet covers. Can't seem to find it now. Do you mind linking again? You could pick colors to match fabric.

Found it: http://www.dimmers.net/receptacles.asp
post #347 of 1591
Thread Starter 
Day 48: More painting, HT ceiling cut into-started to run snake to new projector spot, riser built up to 11 1/2" and proscenium broken down (kept 2x4s for speaker shelving). Good thing I have some GG left so that when those holes get patched up he can apply some in the new spots of DD. Carpet ordered (which by the way I changed last minute when I went back to pick out my stairs runner) but it will take 2-3 weeks which could put a big monkey wrench into the schedule. If 3 weeks then it will have to be installed while I'm on vacation, literally a day or two before the HT guy is scheduled to come do his thing. Hopefully, I will get lucky and it will come in the second week.

Decided on a Milliken navy blue nylon carpet (Grand Elegance Adonis is Sapphire II) with brown star looking type flowers every so often. Changed the carpet since my original choice was Olefin, which while good for stain resistance doesn't tend to stand up to traffic too well and would crush faster. So switched to the more durable nylon choice. Runner choice is Couristan Winslow in Boardeaux color.

Got 3 quotes for different bathroom countertop slabs. Still undecided. Shower door also needs to be chosen. And of course, HT door and trim color. Put up some blue tape in the playroom to give me a visual on how much room is left for bookcases. Will most likely go with the Samsung LN46A650.
post #348 of 1591
Thread Starter 
Day 49: Stairs stained, more painting and wiring redone in the HT. Not much else to report as my GC was MIA most of the week. Only things left for the HT (pre-HT guy arrival) are spackle, sand and repaint the ceiling, installation of furring strips at the chair rail, install drop ceiling in the equipment closet, finish trim on egress window and the choose trim color and door color. Sorry no updated pics, work has been crazy crazy.

Wild card this week will be whether the carpet comes in or not. They said 2-3 weeks and sometime this week is week #2, while next week unfortunately, I will be away on vacation. RS20 is also another wild card as its precise arrival time is also unknown. Best case scenario, HT install starts on the 12th, worse case scenario starts on the 19th. On a more positive note, ordered my three rolls of GOM from fabricmate and was very impressed. Ordered on a Monday morning and took delivery Wednesday evening. Also picked up my linacoustic for just under $175 out the door, placed orders for the color match outlet covers and bathroom accessories. Still need to choose the granite and shower door.

On the playroom front, purchased the Samsung LN46A650 and tilt mount. My husband and I lugged all the chairs down since we were worried about space limitations once the hand rail goes up. Thanksgiving was also at our house so after dinner we enlisted my brother and sister to help us get the couch down into the playroom. Playroom still needs the fluted column to hide the steel pole and built-in bookshelves.
post #349 of 1591
I see a Superbowl Party in your future for sure. Seeing it in HD on your big screen will be better than being there.
post #350 of 1591
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

I see a Superbowl Party in your future for sure. Seeing it in HD on your big screen will be better than being there.

I can only hope your prophesy comes true. On a separate note, got my bathroom fixtures in the mail. Not as heavy as I would have liked but will still work. The dimmers.net order, however, is a different story. I was careless enough not to read the pages carefully and did not realize that you have to order the wall plates separately from the receptacles (pictures show them together). Now I will have to eat an additional $10 shipping. But more importantly, the 'plum' color does not match my 'blue plum' GOM but based on the other available choices it's definitely the closest match. Greatly bummed though that it doesn't match exactly.
post #351 of 1591
Quote:
Originally Posted by queendvd2 View Post

Greatly bummed though that it doesn't match exactly.

You know you will be the only one who even notices. All your visitors will walk into your room and be in awe of the totality of what you have created.
post #352 of 1591
heh.. you'd be amazed at how well a naturally dark room like mine hides mistakes that I will never point out (or photograph).
post #353 of 1591
Room is coming along quite nicely. Looks like BIGmouthinDC is there providing some support. That's what this board is all about

On the screen size (and forgive me if you've already made a decision), go as large as you feel comfortable viewing. I have 124" diag 2.35:1 screen and sit about 11' 6" from the screen. I wish I would have gone a bit larger now (maybe 135"-140"). With 1080p projection, you can go almost as large as you want.

Also, BIG had a good suggestion about buying a pair of HSU subs off the Internet instead of the high-end sub your dealer spec'ed. Two in your room could help smooth out the bass and will help you "feel" the bass rather than just hearing it.
post #354 of 1591
Thread Starter 
BIG, Jamis and Swithey thanks for the words of encouragement. Similar to everyone else on this forum I just want everything to look its best. Decided to go with the 55.3x130 weave SMX screen. To be honest, I don't even know what diagonal that is and I'm too tired to go look it up. For the subs, I splurged and went with two Triad In-Room Golds. Most likely they will be placed somewhere along the false wall.

Day 50: Worked on equipment closet-getting the drop ceiling in, paint, drywall column. Worked on stairs some more, installed carbon monoxide/smoke detector combo (this is in addition to my low voltage smoke detector hooked up with my alarm company). This thread has been starving for some new pics of late so here are a few.

Equipment Closet and Ceiling - Access panel, drywall hiding box, soffit, egress window trim still need to be painted. You will see the drop ceiling that was originally chosen for the entire basement space until BIG convinced me otherwise.









Yes, for you eagle eyes out there my stairs are a mix of oak (treads) and pine (risers) since I had originally planned on painting the risers white but changed my mind and opted for the stained look. Hopefully, my runner will mask the fact that I've got two different grades going on there.


HT Ceiling Waiting Patiently to Be Repainted
post #355 of 1591
Thread Starter 
Day 51: No real tangible progress since most of the day was spent in clean-up mode. But they did clean up the HT as well so I took some new pics. Ceiling still needs another coat but basically pleased with the way it came out. Riser still needs the quarter molding for the lip.





I don't know what's going on with that crack in the quarter molding.


post #356 of 1591
Normally I'd say cracks happen and once it's covered with carpet you will never know. But it looks a little to the right of where some one might step and put down a lot of weight.

I'd put on a replacement.
post #357 of 1591
Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

Normally I'd say cracks happen and once it's covered with carpet you will never know. But it looks a little to the right of where some one might step and put down a lot of weight.

I'd put on a replacement.

I'd have it replaced too. Especially if a contractor did the install or bond it with a 2 part epoxy mix.
post #358 of 1591
Thread Starter 
Thanks BIG and Java. Yes, I spoke with the GC and he said it will be replaced but I'll make sure that I 'see' it in person before the carpet gets installed over it.

Because of the delay in carpet and RS20 arrival, install is tentatively scheduled for the 19th (keeping fingers crossed). Thread silence for a week as I will be away at Disney World with the family.
post #359 of 1591
I think you'll love the SMX screen.

Yours beats mine by 1" of width.
post #360 of 1591
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by jamis View Post

I think you'll love the SMX screen.

I hope so. It was a blind buy since I only saw the Stewart in person.
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