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Queen's Future HT - Page 14

post #391 of 1589
Thread Starter 
GC came through big time and showed up at my front door around 1 p.m. He and his helper are adding the 1/4" strips as I type. So giddy with excitement that I can't help but post the progress!

Cotton Batting


Cotton Batting Close-Up


Linacoustic and Batting


Linacoustic Close-Up



1/4" Add-Ons


1/4" Close-Up


Empty Rack


Empty Boxes


Full Rack
post #392 of 1589
Thread Starter 
Another quick question for everyone. For those with baseboard heating, how do you hide the stapled fabric on top. My GC suggested some kind of trim which at first thought sounds quite odd to me. The LG will also need some kind of trim. Any other ideas for the baseboard?
post #393 of 1589
Some kind of trim, or a piece of trim wrapped with matching fabric. Hold fabric on with spray on glue then use finish nails between the weave, sunk below the surface of the fabric to hold the trim in place.
post #394 of 1589
Thread Starter 
Some additional challenges for the HT guy since the GC did not put up the furring strips exactly to his specifications (and they appear to be glued!). He may have to use a couple quarter rounds (wrapped) for the back corners. Otherwise, here are some additional pics.

Back of the Rack-I will take another close-up later that really highlights how cleanly all the wires have been set up.


Blue Plum GOM






My not exactly matching outlet cover.


Flash altered the color somewhat on the top portion (it's violet but photographed more gray).
post #395 of 1589
Looking good!
post #396 of 1589
Thread Starter 
Another setback. The GC left too much space in-between the slots for the columns so that once they're slotted in place there's air. HT guy is mulling over how to fix that. There's not too much love going on between these two crews. GC has to come by later today to put up the sconces too since they will be programmed via remote.
post #397 of 1589
Just add shims to the side of the columns along the front and back edges. Once it is wrapped in fabric you won't know.
post #398 of 1589
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

Just add shims to the side of the columns along the front and back edges. Once it is wrapped in fabric you won't know.

Thanks. I'll suggest that.

Yet another setback. I mistakenly thought that the Marantz pre-pro could drive the two ceiling speakers for the playroom. The B&K amp is only 7.1 ch., just enough for the HT. So now I'm running around trying to find a good price locally for a 2 or 5 ch. receiver. Only need 2 but it's like $20 more for 5 which I think is better for future flexibility. Is this build ever going to go right?
post #399 of 1589
Thread Starter 
Day 55: A day full of surprises. Columns ended up being too twisted in order to be wrapped and slotted in properly (BIG, I told the GC to go with MDF from the get-go like you suggested but he went with the 2x6s). So the GC will have to redo them. Cable line was run from the LCD to the playroom but GC forgot to connect to the main line. Sconce wiring is dead. Ran out real quick and picked up a 2 ch. receiver to drive my playroom speakers. HT guy overlooked that.

But will all the setbacks I have to say the room is starting to look pretty awesome. Fortunately, the HT crew will be in the vicinity in a couple of weeks so they can come back and finish up the columns, calibrate the JVC (after I put some bulb time in) and put on the faceplates (on the MA rack) that were inadvertently left behind.

Front False Wall Build












SMX Screen Build - Absolutely NO regrets going scope








Surrounds Install









Leonardos



JVC







HT crew will be back for a half-day tomorrow to try and run the cable feed and get the LCD with ceiling speakers up, get the speakers and JVC fired up so I can get some bulb time in. Then it will be a VERY long two-week wait .
post #400 of 1589
Looks awesome so far. Congrats.
post #401 of 1589
I would ask your HT guy why he built the fabric frames so that they sit in front of your speakers, It will effect the sound field and you will not get all the speaker you paid for.

Given that the screen is so wide there is no reason for the sides panels to be that wide. If the studs were not in the correct position to properly place your L/R speakers it is a 10 minute quick fix. IMHO the studs (and any rigid fabric panel fames) should be well clear of the side edges of the speaker, well out of the sound field.

I think in general that the theater is looking great and I'm sure Jason is tearing out his hair caught between you, the GC and all us armchair quarterbacks. But it just doesn't look acceptable I would want it redone.

post #402 of 1589
theater looks great, but I was thinking the same thing with the placement of the framing.

Also, in redoing it, he can also lay down a coat of flat black paint on the false wall framing so it doesn't show through like it is in that picture
post #403 of 1589
Thread Starter 
You know, it didn't even occur to me at the time that it might compromise the sound field. He mentioned that he built them that way just in case I decided to switch back to 16x9, which I highly doubt at this point. I will inquire further. Thanks for the feedback.
post #404 of 1589
Actually the more I look at the PICS the ideal placement may be close to dead center on where he built the the frame edge for the fabric frames.

One resolution is to rebuild all the panels and move the studs. Another is to remove adjacent studs and position the speakers either on the inside or the outside of the GOM frame edge. Outside may be too far apart. They also should be equal distant to the two side walls.

Think of the speaker as a light bulb. If there is something that casts a shadow in the room then the sound field will be disrupted. Will you hear it with the average ear?? can't tell you. But, when you spend that much for your equipment and installation you shouldn't need to make this compromise.
post #405 of 1589
Thread Starter 
On his next visit out, he has agreed to move the studs in order to facilitate ideal placement of the L and R speakers. But then they will sit completely behind the GOM, which I'm guessing is ok?
post #406 of 1589
There is a lot of precedent for speakers behind double layers of Acoustically Transparent material as the guys who mask their 2:35 screens for 16:9 material do so with AT material. The thing I wonder about is if they are that far out to the sides is should they be angled (aimed) in a bit toward the center.

It would be best to get some "expert" opinions.
post #407 of 1589
Thread Starter 
Some new pics. First movie was Wall-E with the kids. Tonight's show will be Dark Knight.

Test Drive





post #408 of 1589
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

The thing I wonder about is if they are that far out to the sides is should they be angled (aimed) in a bit toward the center.

It would be best to get some "expert" opinions.

Paul Scarpelli (aka Triad dude) has recommended an angle of no more than five degrees, given that it can still sit behind the screen without touching. He cautioned any angle greater than that since it would otherwise have trouble firing through the AT screen.
post #409 of 1589
Quote:
Originally Posted by queendvd2 View Post

First movie was Wall-E with the kids. Tonight's show will be Dark Knight.

And? what do you think of your set up?

The room is looking sweet. I'm going to try to do some imagineering on your trim. What is that white bar above the screen?
post #410 of 1589
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGmouthinDC View Post

And? what do you think of your set up?

The room is looking sweet. I'm going to try to do some imagineering on your trim. What is that white bar above the screen?

Pretty amazing. The trim still has me worried a bit though. Plus the corners aren't exactly how I wanted since the HT guy had problems with the way the GC did the furring strips. Long story short a small quarter molding wrapped in fabric will have to be glued to the back corners in-between the base/chair/crown.

That's the wii sensor bar. It's actually black but I turned it around because the blue sensor light stays on for an hour after use. Ok, FINALLY got the kids to bed (we hope!) so it's SHOWTIME .
post #411 of 1589
Quote:
Originally Posted by queendvd2 View Post

That's the wii sensor bar. It's actually black but I turned it around because the blue sensor light stays on for an hour after use.

If you want to you can get a piece of electrical tape and cover the blue light.
post #412 of 1589
Thread Starter 
Dark Knight was phenomenal, in terms of a great movie to test drive the HT. Not knocking Heath Ledger's outstanding performance though. There were some strange 'green' scenes but remember the projector is only running on THX mode and has not yet been calibrated. I also wasn't sure whether they were just trying to make Gotham look grim. I plan to go back and shoot a couple still shots pre-calibration in order to compare with post-calibration.

When I say I have absolutely NO regrets about going scope that is an understatement. On the 16x9 screen I would not have been very happy at all viewing 2.35 movies. And having the sound come from behind the screen is priceless (well, technically not exactly in this case but you know what I mean). Making those two last minute changes have definitely brought the HT to another level, from both a satisfaction and performance perspective.
post #413 of 1589
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by golferadam View Post

Looks awesome so far. Congrats.

Thanks Adam. It's been a long time in planning so it certainly is very gratifying.
post #414 of 1589
I definitely like the way it's looking. Even without prosceniums.


I also have no regrets going scope.
post #415 of 1589
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by jamis View Post

I definitely like the way it's looking. Even without prosceniums.


I also have no regrets going scope.

Yes, I did love those prosceniums. But not as much as going scope .
post #416 of 1589
Thread Starter 
Day 55: New columns made out of MDF. Also had the GC round the corners at BIG's suggestion to avoid potential future rips. Sconce wiring fixed and Lutron dimmers (that will be controlled via the URC) installed.

As promised, another look at the wiring (couldn't get back far enough to get it in one shot).









New Columns



While the SMX screen is totally blowing me away, I'm reserving final judgement on the JVC until post calibration. This is my first experience with D-ILA. All of my prior viewings were DLPs. I still can't forget the image that a SIM2 D80E threw onto a Stewart ST130. The image was incredibly crisp and had a lot of pop. However, it's worth noting that I've got ambient light still spilling into the room via the doorways which I'm sure is also degrading the quality. Don't get me wrong. The image looks great, but I want awesome. Time will tell.

On a separate note, HT guy suggested wrapping the base trim throughout the entire room, including up the stairs and around the stage area (like in BIG's last sketch). GC says given the very tall base trim that I chose, wrapping around the riser stair lip and by the stage would look strange (particularly on the lip sides of the stage step parts not the flat part of the stage). I actually like the look of the stage area without the trim but then I would be able to see the staples. Perhaps just do the top part of the riser and stage but leave the step part alone? Any thoughts?
post #417 of 1589
Looking great Queen! Besides the other mods that are needed to the screen-wall that were mentioned above, I would highly recommend wrapping those vertical studs directly behind the the viewable screen area with a black velvet if you are not removing them.

Those white studs will reflect light from the projector and even if you paint them flat black, they still may reflect light.

Keep up the good work and keep those pictures coming!

Ruben
post #418 of 1589
Queen,

Awesome!! - these updates are inspiring me to get back to work.

A couple questions on the MDF column "covers" :

-How thick is the MDF that was used, perhaps 1/2"?
-How will they be secured to the wall, friction fir, or...?

Regards,
post #419 of 1589
did you use banana plugs on to make your speaker connections at the back of your components? what are you doing at the speakers, are you just going to use the binding posts or will you use banana plugs there too?
post #420 of 1589
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by cuzed2 View Post


-How thick is the MDF that was used, perhaps 1/2"?
-How will they be secured to the wall, friction fir, or...?

They are 3/4". They are secured via blocking up by the crown and base with drywall screws. Attached is a photo showing them attached to the walls. I nearly freaked out when I saw them attached, not knowing that the GC only secured them with two screws each in order to ensure that they could sit flush. HT guy will simply need to remove the screws and then wrap and reattach.

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