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The Yamaha RX-V663 thread. HDMI 1.3 upconversion, TrueHD, DTS MA decoding. - Page 364

post #10891 of 11020
Quote:
Originally Posted by vladd View Post

. The PS3 is incapable of HD Audio + 3D anyway.

Hi vladd, on Aug 10, 2011 PS3 software update version 3.70 now supports DTS-HD MA, DTS-HD HR during 3D playback.
post #10892 of 11020
Appreciate it!

I may just look into the 310 as its only $30ish more than the 210.
*Could someone link me the HDMI splitter I would need?

Quote:


In order to get full resolution, surround sound audio out of the second HDMI output you will need to disable the second video signal. Which means no video going to your receiver. This is less than ideal since I will rarely be watching 3D content and would have preferred to route video through the AVR most of the time for simplicity. I guess they set it up this way to save a few pennies per unit but it stinks.

Not liking this one bit, because I would be the same way. The plus side, I guess is the harmony remote. I would just have to keep the reciever as HDMI1 and switch the Blu-ray player to HDMI2 on the TV.
post #10893 of 11020
Quote:
Originally Posted by JChin View Post

Hi vladd, on Aug 10, 2011 PS3 software update version 3.70 now supports DTS-HD MA, DTS-HD HR during 3D playback.

That's interesting. I wonder how they accomplished that with HDMI 1.3

Edit: According to sony, it's only DTS-HD + 3D capable. Not TrueHD.
post #10894 of 11020
Quote:
Originally Posted by jstutman View Post

Appreciate it!

I may just look into the 310 as its only $30ish more than the 210.
*Could someone link me the HDMI splitter I would need?



Not liking this one bit, because I would be the same way. The plus side, I guess is the harmony remote. I would just have to keep the reciever as HDMI1 and switch the Blu-ray player to HDMI2 on the TV.

Well bad news, contacted T3 support for Monoprice. It appears every splitter acts the same way. Both outputs must go to a TV. It does not matter if it is the $8 non powered or the $40 powered.

I think since I am not looking to upgrade a perfectly fine reciever for right now, I will just deal with not having HD audio when I am watching 3d. I might watch a 3d movie every few months so not a huge headache. I ordered an Optical cable for when I do.

The DBT310 would help in that I would get HD audio but that is the substantial cost work something I would barely use.

* I canceled my 210, just in case. Today I dine and think about what to order
post #10895 of 11020
I know there is a specific thread on this but has anybody experienced the DTS Bomb on their RX-V663 while watching the Stars Wars Blu Rays? I have not tried them but when I do it will be with the Oppo 983.
post #10896 of 11020
Quote:
Originally Posted by SteveCaron View Post

I know there is a specific thread on this but has anybody experienced the DTS Bomb on their RX-V663 while watching the Stars Wars Blu Rays? I have not tried them but when I do it will be with the Oppo 983.

I don't know for sure but I think any Yamaha that had a fix for the original "bomb" (back in 2008) will be OK for the Star Wars disks too (that's the case for my RX-V1800 which is roughly the same vintage as the 663).

Most 663s originally shipped with firmware that fixed this issue, but a few early ones did not. Unfortunately for those few, Yamaha USA never made the newer firmware available for download.

You should check if your current DSP firmware version is less than 4.07r2, because that's the version that fixed the bug. I have the firmware at home somewhere and I'll post a link later if anyone needs it (it was taken from the Yamaha Germany support site before they started requiring a login).
post #10897 of 11020
Quote:
Originally Posted by kriktsemaj99 View Post

I don't know for sure but I think any Yamaha that had a fix for the original "bomb" (back in 2008) will be OK for the Star Wars disks too (that's the case for my RX-V1800 which is roughly the same vintage as the 663).

Most 663s originally shipped with firmware that fixed this issue, but a few early ones did not. Unfortunately for those few, Yamaha USA never made the newer firmware available for download.

You should check if your current DSP firmware version is less than 4.07r2, because that's the version that fixed the bug. I have the firmware at home somewhere and I'll post a link later if anyone needs it (it was taken from the Yamaha Germany support site before they started requiring a login).

I will double check my FW when I get home. I purchased mine in August of 08 from Best Buy but just in case if you could post that link that would be great.
post #10898 of 11020
The old links to the firmware don't work, but I uploaded it again to mediafire and updated this old post. It also gives you a link to the service manual which has the firmware update instructions.
post #10899 of 11020
ok went in to check my firmware and what it gave me is Ver: E057E.... is this the latest greatest?
post #10900 of 11020
Quote:
Originally Posted by SteveCaron View Post

ok went in to check my firmware and what it gave me is Ver: E057E.... is this the latest greatest?

Probably, but there's a separate version number you should check for the DSP firmware. If that's 4.07r2 (or later) then it has the original bitstream bomb fix.
post #10901 of 11020
Quote:
Originally Posted by kriktsemaj99 View Post

Probably, but there's a separate version number you should check for the DSP firmware. If that's 4.07r2 (or later) then it has the original bitstream bomb fix.

How do I access this? I used instructions I saw on accessing the mode that provided me with the FW I mentioned but I could not manage to find anything regarding DSP firmware.
post #10902 of 11020
I can't remember the details but it should be in the Service Manual under "Self-Diagnostic Function".

But I'm sure you're good to go, because the bitstream bomb fix had Main firmware version C051E and DSP version 4.07r2. Since your Main version is later (E057E) your DSP version will be at least 4.07r2 (they never go backwards).
post #10903 of 11020
Does anyone know if you can use the remote to switch between speakers A and B? I can do it with the button on the front and cant find any reference in the manual to use the remote unless you have zone 2 set up.

Thanks.
post #10904 of 11020
My 663 will no longer output the PS3 XMB clicks as you scroll through the menu and some games, like Little Big Planet have no voice audio for some reason.

The only way to get the audio to return is to set the 663 to 7ch Enhancer. I've always had it set to straight, but this results in no audio at all.

Changes I've made recently are just a reduction in speakers - from 7.1 to 5.1

The PS3 is set to PCM and all of the speaker lights are lit. Any movies I play from my server through the PS3 have audio just fine with the 663 set to Straight.

What could have caused the loss of audio when using Straight and the PS3 itself?

Thanks a million!!
post #10905 of 11020
If one wanted to hook up an external headphone amplifier to the RCA ouiput jacks on the RX-V663, which RCAs would be the best to use?
post #10906 of 11020
I apologize if this is in the wrong forum. I just got the Apple TV appliance. How do I play the Netflix or the Internet radio stations thru this receiver? I do not have cable TV. The HDMI jacks are labeled for the Blu-Ray, cable TV, and one labeled "out." Can I not play my Sony 46" thru the receiver?

Thanks
post #10907 of 11020
What kind of settings would you suggest for my 663 for everyday TV/blu-ray watching? I have Polk Monitor fronts, Polk C-20 Center, Polk 505 Sub, and Mirage mini's for my rears in a 5.1 system. I sit about 18ft from the center channel with a Sony 60A300 display. Should I just auto tune it or are there some manual settings you prefer?
post #10908 of 11020
Quote:
Originally Posted by andy sullivan View Post

I sit about 18ft from the center channel with a Sony 60A300 display.

I'm not directly addressing your query BUT:

At 18ft from a 60" display, you are almost at the maximum distance to watch standard definition TV. At that distance with a small 60" screen you are unable to differentiate between 480p, 720p and 1080p images - they will all look the same. Your image width (assuming a 16:9 TV) is only 13.8 degrees. At that distance, the screen size necessary to achieve an SMPTE minimum viewing angle is 115.8" screen or to achieve the THX recommended viewing angle you'd need a 140.4" display.

On the other hand, you could move a great deal closer to the TV to gain a MUCH superior viewing experience such as 9.4ft to get tho the maximum THX viewing distance. In order to fully resolve a 1080p image, it would be 7.8ft.
post #10909 of 11020
Quote:
Originally Posted by dmullen View Post

I apologize if this is in the wrong forum. I just got the Apple TV appliance. How do I play the Netflix or the Internet radio stations thru this receiver? I do not have cable TV. The HDMI jacks are labeled for the Blu-Ray, cable TV, and one labeled "out." Can I not play my Sony 46" thru the receiver?

Thanks

dmullen,

I'm not sure if I follow you too much but I'll give it a go. You can plug your Apple TV into either of the 2 HDMI inputs and plug your Sony TV into the HDMI output. In the Yamaha Menu you can also change the "name" of the input (the words that show on the display when you have that input chosen). You can change it from say Blu-Ray to AppleTV. I've changed most of my inputs (i.e. Wii).

Hope that helped,
dbl
post #10910 of 11020
Quote:
Originally Posted by andy sullivan View Post

What kind of settings would you suggest for my 663 for everyday TV/blu-ray watching? I have Polk Monitor fronts, Polk C-20 Center, Polk 505 Sub, and Mirage mini's for my rears in a 5.1 system. I sit about 18ft from the center channel with a Sony 60A300 display. Should I just auto tune it or are there some manual settings you prefer?

Andy,

I would just let YPAO do it's thing and see how it sounds to you. Sometimes (for my taste) it sets the sub and rears too quite, but that's just me, so I just bring them up a bit manually.


Good luck,
dbl
post #10911 of 11020
Quote:
Originally Posted by dbldare View Post

dmullen,

I'm not sure if I follow you too much but I'll give it a go. You can plug your Apple TV into either of the 2 HDMI inputs and plug your Sony TV into the HDMI output. In the Yamaha Menu you can also change the "name" of the input (the words that show on the display when you have that input chosen). You can change it from say Blu-Ray to AppleTV. I've changed most of my inputs (i.e. Wii).

Hope that helped,
dbl

Works great as far as sound but now how do I get the Apple TV menu back on the screen? Thanks
post #10912 of 11020
Thanks for the response. You would think I would have asked this 3 years ago but I've always just gone with my manual settings. It seems that the rears are too quiet and the sub is either too loud or not loud enough. I've experimented with dozens of blu-rays and TV shows but can't seem to get a good balance of performance. The overall ambiance seems to be nice and full but the separation just feels weak. It's probably just me. Thanks again. Andy
post #10913 of 11020
Quote:
Originally Posted by dmullen View Post

Works great as far as sound but now how do I get the Apple TV menu back on the screen? Thanks

Are you running all HDMI through the Yammy?

Apple TV --> Yammy --> TV / All via HDMI.....

If so, how were you running the set-up before (HDMI)? I just want to make sure that all your equipment (including your TV) is on their respective HDMI settings.


dbl
post #10914 of 11020
Quote:
Originally Posted by andy sullivan View Post

Thanks for the response. You would think I would have asked this 3 years ago but I've always just gone with my manual settings. It seems that the rears are too quiet and the sub is either too loud or not loud enough. I've experimented with dozens of blu-rays and TV shows but can't seem to get a good balance of performance. The overall ambiance seems to be nice and full but the separation just feels weak. It's probably just me. Thanks again. Andy

Andy,

I have the same issues with my sound. I'm sure most people do, due to various rooms and tastes. (btw, I just said doo doo ) Sorry, couldn't resist. I run YAPO first, then adjust things as I want.

Good luck---

dbl
post #10915 of 11020
So after 4+ years of flawless service, my 663 seems to have developed an issue out of the blue...

Whenever the input or audio signal changes (from 5.1 to stereo, for instance, when watcing television) there is an audible single "pop" through the subwoofers. This also occurs any time the "mute" button is pressed.

Now, I know for a fact that this was not occurring yesterday; and the only thing that has changed since yesterday is a visit from the DirecTV technician. I called them to come out and correctly ground my satellite dish (was left ungrounded when originally installed). I didn't realize this until I moved some of my equipment to a new 20a circuit and was getting a nasty 60hz hum through the subs. Traced it to the satellite by systematically unplugging each input.

So....he grounded the the dish and the hum is gone. However, at some point this afternoon the system began making this noise when switching inputs or signals, or when mute is pressed. It is quite annoying, especially since many relays are triggered, say, when watching a blu-ray, as it switches between differently encoded audio tracks on previews, menus, and features.

Has anybody experienced this phenomenon with their 663? Is it a grounding issue, do you think, or some coincidental electrical issue from a surge, etc.?
post #10916 of 11020
Shameless bump for low-traffic thread
post #10917 of 11020
Quote:
Originally Posted by _Avarice_ View Post

So after 4+ years of flawless service, my 663 seems to have developed an issue out of the blue...

Whenever the input or audio signal changes (from 5.1 to stereo, for instance, when watcing television) there is an audible single "pop" through the subwoofers. This also occurs any time the "mute" button is pressed.

Now, I know for a fact that this was not occurring yesterday; and the only thing that has changed since yesterday is a visit from the DirecTV technician. I called them to come out and correctly ground my satellite dish (was left ungrounded when originally installed). I didn't realize this until I moved some of my equipment to a new 20a circuit and was getting a nasty 60hz hum through the subs. Traced it to the satellite by systematically unplugging each input.

So....he grounded the the dish and the hum is gone. However, at some point this afternoon the system began making this noise when switching inputs or signals, or when mute is pressed. It is quite annoying, especially since many relays are triggered, say, when watching a blu-ray, as it switches between differently encoded audio tracks on previews, menus, and features.

Has anybody experienced this phenomenon with their 663? Is it a grounding issue, do you think, or some coincidental electrical issue from a surge, etc.?

Odds are 50/50 that this "pop" is being generated in a sub. It's usually caused by a ground "potential" that is discharged in the sub amp and propagates to the other sub(s) on the same line-level loop. I've experienced the same sort of thing here, and the pop was propagated to 2 other subs from the offending one. (all 3 were on a single line-level daisy chain). What causes the discharge is any interruption in the signal, like stopping, pausing, changing inputs, chapter skips, etc.

If you have multiple subs, you can easily troubleshoot which one is the culprit by disconnecting one at a time. Another test for each sub is to connect a CD player's line level out to the sub and try to reproduce the pop. Be sure to lower the level on the sub prior to doing that.

Odds are also good that the same sub was the real cause of your 60Hz hum, with a ground loop through the DTV box. You can try the usual steps for eliminating grounding issues, which may or may not resolve this, but it could be that the sub needs service.
post #10918 of 11020
Thx for the response....the subs are brand new and passive, run in stereo of a single pro-amp.

I believe the sat dish was the cause of the ground loop, as after proper earthing to my common house ground, the hum is no longer present. However, the pop has manifested!

I can't imagine from where this potential difference would originate, given the system's common ground....but I suppose the first step I'll take is remove the dish ground that was installed and put everything back to how it was prior to the "pop."
post #10919 of 11020
Quote:
Originally Posted by _Avarice_ View Post

Thx for the response....the subs are brand new and passive, run in stereo of a single pro-amp.

I believe the sat dish was the cause of the ground loop, as after proper earthing to my common house ground, the hum is no longer present. However, the pop has manifested!

I can't imagine from where this potential difference would originate, given the system's common ground....but I suppose the first step I'll take is remove the dish ground that was installed and put everything back to how it was prior to the "pop."

The pro amp could just as easily be the source of the pop. If you can, try substituting in a different amp for a test. Amps are *supposed* to mute when the signal is interrupted, obviously yours is not doing that. But the pop itself is of a different origin.

FWIW, it takes at least 2 components to create a ground potential (hum), the DTV box was just one of them.
post #10920 of 11020
Lo and behold.....unhooked the sat dish ground from the earth rod and no more "pop."
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