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The Yamaha RX-V663 thread. HDMI 1.3 upconversion, TrueHD, DTS MA decoding. - Page 52

post #1531 of 11036
Quote:
Originally Posted by cavu View Post

Don't confuse us wuth facts, Jack!

Bad habit. Anyway, I only leave the..."slow" types behind, which I'm ok with.
post #1532 of 11036
Quote:
Originally Posted by foamfoot View Post

I have the Harmony One and when I updated my remote for the 663 this weekend it had the codes. Did you check under RXV663?


you or anyone else with the harmony one running a dual zone setup? i'm stuck right now since controlling/switching to "zone B" isn't listed in Logitech's database and learning it requires 2 simultaneous button presses from the yammy remote.

also-- i'm not sure if the 663's database they had online was finished/accurate, they seemed to have a whole slew of "net" commands that i found irrelevant.
post #1533 of 11036
Can anyone verify how warm the bottom left behind the first foot gets? I felt mines and its burning hot!!
post #1534 of 11036
Quote:
Originally Posted by xone13 View Post

Can anyone verify how warm the bottom left behind the first foot gets? I felt mines and its burning hot!!

Mine is warm, no were near hot though, what kind of speakers you running and how high is it turned up for how long to get burning hot? I crank mine for awhile and check it again I also have 6 ohm speakers so I have the receiver turned down to the 6 ohm setting. BTW my fronts are Monitor Audio BR6's 6 ohm 150W each.
post #1535 of 11036
Quote:
Originally Posted by d1live View Post

Mine is warm, no were near hot though, what kind of speakers you running and how high is it turned up for how long to get burning hot? I crank mine for awhile and check it again I also have 6 ohm speakers so I have the receiver turned down to the 6 ohm setting. BTW my fronts are Monitor Audio BR6's 6 ohm 150W each.

I got a couple of old 6 ohm Sony Cmt-CP1 book shelf speakers for the front and 8 ohms for the rear and the center but and its at -36db for 1 hour. I believe the AMS is set to 6 ohms. Damn I dont want to toast my first receiver. What do the ohms mean? Does the 8 ohm speaker put more stress on the receiver?
post #1536 of 11036
Quote:
Originally Posted by wr33 View Post

you or anyone else with the harmony one running a dual zone setup? i'm stuck right now since controlling/switching to "zone B" isn't listed in Logitech's database and learning it requires 2 simultaneous button presses from the yammy remote.

also-- i'm not sure if the 663's database they had online was finished/accurate, they seemed to have a whole slew of "net" commands that i found irrelevant.

**update

Logitech has updated their database in the past week to now reflect appropriate mulitzone control and other relevant commands. =)
post #1537 of 11036
Quote:
Originally Posted by xone13 View Post

I got a couple of old 6 ohm Sony Cmt-CP1 book shelf speakers for the front and 8 ohms for the rear and the center but and its at -36db for 1 hour. I believe the AMS is set to 6 ohms. Damn I dont want to toast my first receiver. What do the ohms mean? Does the 8 ohm speaker put more stress on the receiver?

Page 28 of your owners manual gives directions on how to change it to the 6 ohm setting, I think this only applies to the front channels, 8 ohm rears will be fine. The higher the number ohm rating is more the more effient speaker the lower number the more stress on the receiver, try changing the setting in the advanced setup menu (page 28) and then check the hot spot again, should be cooler.
post #1538 of 11036
Quote:
Originally Posted by d1live View Post

  1. The higher the number ohm rating is more the more effient speaker
  2. the lower number the more stress on the receiver

  1. Not true
  2. True ... sort of
post #1539 of 11036
Got the new 663 up and running this evening...loving it so far! YPAO was accurate for the most part, save for indicating that a couple of speakers were out of phase though they most definitely are not.

This was a replacement for two defunct Onkyo 805's. Though not as feature-rich, IMO this Yamaha produces an accurate, highly detailed sound. I'm using fairly efficient speakers so the extra power of the 805 is not sorely missed. Bonus - it doesn't come anywhere close to going supernova like the 805 did

I look forward to more tinkering with the unit tomorrow! For those of you using PS3's as blu ray players, there is a somewhat informative thread in the Playstation forum regarding optimal sound settings. The overwhelming recommendation seems to be to leave the output as bitstream for ALL occasions, except with Dolby True HD. In other words, the PS3 apparently can bitstream multichannel PCM (which I've confirmed myself this evening).

Why the HDMI chipset in PS3 is capable of bitsreaming multichannel PCM and not the HBR codecs is beyond me. Bandwidth is obviously not the issue. To anybody who can offer some (factual) insight as to the reason, I welcome your input.
post #1540 of 11036
I wan to run two subs with this 663 as I have an Infinity SW-12 coming in from Vanns on Monday. I have been without a dedicted sub for years since my Infinity Interlude IL-50's have built in 12" powered subs. I watched 30 days of Night tonight and w/out a seperate sub the room just shook. I asked this on another forum but do you think running two subs ( the SW-12 and the IL-50 subs which are ran from a y-split into the sub 1 out of the 663) is too much bass ? How important is a seperate dedicated sub when you have towers that have 12" built in powered subs ? Does anyone else have a similiar speaker situation and if so whats real important to watch out for when running so much bass ? I paid $399 for the SW-12 and I'm wondering if I really need it as my room is 14X18 ! Any help is appreciated
post #1541 of 11036
Quote:
The overwhelming recommendation seems to be to leave the output as bitstream for ALL occasions, except with Dolby True HD.

Sure, no reason not to for DD/DTS.

Quote:
In other words, the PS3 apparently can bitstream multichannel PCM (which I've confirmed myself this evening).

If it's mc PCM, it ain't bitstream, and vice-versa. The PS3 can send mc PCM from a disc, or it can decode TrueHD and send as same. This has been discussed throughout the thread.
post #1542 of 11036
Quote:
Originally Posted by ezdriver View Post

Looks, guys, obviously I'm a total rookie at this and any help is truly appreciated. If you were in my shoes(and at one time you were!), and you wanted to get your system calibrated, what would you do? I don't feel comfortable doing it myself after hearing that "You'll be out of luck using the recommended method of adjusting brightness with DVE, precisely because the Yamaha doesn't pass the below-black levels that are required for this procedure!" I don't know any AV guys who could help me. Any suggestions?

In these forums there's a display calibration thread with enough reading to keep you busy for a long time, this post is a good start.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...yder2+distance

What you will notice is there's a difference of opinion on black level and many "experts" would recomend 16-235. Someone just started a panic in this thread with his own opinion. I would need to find the thread however if I remember correctly 16-235 will show better detail in dark scenes.
post #1543 of 11036
Hey everyone, I am upgrading to Blu Ray with the Pan BD30 and the V663 but was wondering if anyone here is having the "popping sound" issue with bitstreaming using the Pan BD30 with the V663 like other members are having with older Yamaha receivers?

Thanks!
post #1544 of 11036
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jack Gilvey View Post

If it's mc PCM, it ain't bitstream, and vice-versa. The PS3 can send mc PCM from a disc, or it can decode TrueHD and send as same. This has been discussed throughout the thread.

Yes, I'm aware of that. However, with PS3 you can change audio options in-movie and do a quick comparison. When demo-ing Black Hawk Down last night, I was able to select the PCM track and bitstream output. It did not revert to 2.0 PCM, it was still 5.1 discrete channels of uncompressed soundtrack.

Others have had similar experience.
post #1545 of 11036
Quote:
Originally Posted by xone13 View Post

I got a couple of old 6 ohm Sony Cmt-CP1 book shelf speakers for the front and 8 ohms for the rear and the center but and its at -36db for 1 hour. I believe the AMS is set to 6 ohms. Damn I dont want to toast my first receiver. What do the ohms mean? Does the 8 ohm speaker put more stress on the receiver?

Quote:
Originally Posted by d1live View Post

Page 28 of your owners manual gives directions on how to change it to the 6 ohm setting, I think this only applies to the front channels, 8 ohm rears will be fine. The higher the number ohm rating is more the more effient speaker the lower number the more stress on the receiver, try changing the setting in the advanced setup menu (page 28) and then check the hot spot again, should be cooler.

Quote:
Originally Posted by cavu View Post

  1. Not true
  2. True ... sort of

What Cavu said!
The ohm rating has little to nothing to do with speaker efficiency.

You have to change your ohm setting in the amp to match your speakers. Ohms is a measure of resistance, and in this case resistance is a good thing. You are running less ohms than what this amp is specified to run at. The amp is rated 95W at 8 ohms. Running six ohm speaker you are getting more power from the amp to the speakers because of less resistance, but the down side is the amp will run hotter when doing this. As we all know when it comes to electronic equipment, heat is a bad thing. How long it will run that way is the real question.

I guess we all just figured out he difference in weight on the new 663/863 is more than likely the heat-sinks. Otherwise there probably wouldn't be an ohm setting in the advanced menu and the amp would be safe to run at lower ohms. I'm not an electronics major so there may be more to it than that though.

I have Axiom QS8's for my rear speakers which are 6 ohms, so the 663 may not be the amp for me, seeing how you can only change the setting for the front three speakers. But who knows though. On the Axiom website it states the QS8's are compatible with 8 ohm receivers.

Anyone out there with 6 ohm rear speakers having this heat issue? I know the rear channels don't get driven as hard as the front, so it may not be an issue at all.
post #1546 of 11036
Quick question, is there any way to set it so the receiver will pass audio to the TV as well as through the receiver. At night when my wife is asleep I'd like to be able to turn the receiver volume off and use the TVs volume. Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks!
post #1547 of 11036
Quote:
Originally Posted by t4t3r View Post

I'm setting up my RXV663 with a 3.0 setup (Polk CSR center and Polk R150 (x2) as my L and R). On the display I can only get it to show L and R, can't get C to light up. I tested one of the bookshelves hooked up to the L output and was able to get sound. How can I get that C to light up along with L and R and output sound?

Can someone please tell me what I'm doing wrong? I've looked through the manual a few times and still can't figure out what I'm doing wrong.
post #1548 of 11036
Quote:
Originally Posted by t4t3r View Post

I'm setting up my RXV663 with a 3.0 setup (Polk CSR center and Polk R150 (x2) as my L and R). On the display I can only get it to show L and R, can't get C to light up. I tested one of the bookshelves hooked up to the L output and was able to get sound. How can I get that C to light up along with L and R and output sound?

Quote:
Originally Posted by t4t3r View Post

Can someone please tell me what I'm doing wrong? I've looked through the manual a few times and still can't figure out what I'm doing wrong.

Check to make sure the center speaker in not set to "none" in the menu

Just a stupid question, though.
What kind of material are you listening to that won't come through the center channel?

If the center channel is turned on in the setup menu and the source is in 5.1 the receiver should automatically select the center channel.
post #1549 of 11036
Center speaker is set to small.

I'm just trying to hook up my PS3 to the receiver for now, I'm going to hook up my other sources later. I just wanted to try out the speakers to make sure I want to keep them.

In the manual setup menu, when I'm in the basic menu, Left Right and Center indicators on the receiver display are lit up. Trying test tones there also play through each hookup fine. When I leave the basic menu the Center indicator turns off and only Left and Right are lit up.
post #1550 of 11036
Quote:
Originally Posted by t4t3r View Post

Can someone please tell me what I'm doing wrong? I've looked through the manual a few times and still can't figure out what I'm doing wrong.

You're not doing anything wrong.
Those lights show the input signal, not which speakers are playing. It sounds like you're playing a 2 ch source, correct? That would mean that only the L & R icons light up.
post #1551 of 11036
Quote:
Originally Posted by t4t3r View Post

Center speaker is set to small.

I'm just trying to hook up my PS3 to the receiver for now, I'm going to hook up my other sources later. I just wanted to try out the speakers to make sure I want to keep them.

In the manual setup menu, when I'm in the basic menu, Left Right and Center indicators on the receiver display are lit up. Trying test tones there also play through each hookup fine. When I leave the basic menu the Center indicator turns off and only Left and Right are lit up.

If you are running a 3.0 system change all your speakers to "large". Having them set to small will send the low frequencies to the sub, which you don't have. Either that or select "no sub" and it should change all the speakers to large.

If you are getting a test tone to the center speaker from the setup menu it should be working.

Is the test tone in the center channel as loud as the R&L?

Are you using some kind of a digital audio connection to the receiver?
Are you listening to something that has a 5.1 soundtrack?

EDIT:
Also, I know next to noting about the PS3, so check the settings in that as well. Make sure it is putting out more than stereo.
post #1552 of 11036
My first post here! A word of thanks to all here. I was seconds away from pushing the "buy" button on a RX-V661 but thought I should check here first in case there were rumors of something new. Sure enough, here was this thread. Everything I was hesitant about on the 661 was apparently addressed with the 663. And hardly any increase in price thanks to tips here.

This AVR replaces my Yamaha RX-V870 which I bought back in ~1993 and loved a lot since. It's as good as new, has always performed well, and was probably one of the best and last ProLogic surround recievers before Dolby Digital came along. It was hard to finally decide to drop cash to modernize, especially since I was uncertain how big a gain the DD would be over the 4.0 surround. (I can lay that to rest upfront - no regrets. The improvement is amazing.) Poor trusted old friend will appear on E-Bay soon.

SETUP First impression was that this AVR is smaller and lighter than my older unit (300 watts on back plate vs 400 for the new one). The older one had a bigger transformer. Physical setup was simple and took only a few minutes. My speaker wires are terminated in banana plugs, otherwise it would have taken a while to maneuver all the binding posts, as they are cramped. One of the attractions of this AVR is the ability to use a single HDMI cable to the monitor. This allowed me to remove the component and S-video cables I had previously and leave only the HDMI cable. Eliminating the S-video path also allowed removing the cables I had from my DVD and VCR. These were redundant before, but allowed the convenience of having the video signals show up at several different places. This compensated for the complexity of having to switch all the video and audio sources around and made it more likely that the family would be able to "make it work". For instance, maybe they wouldn't take advantage of the direct component path from the DVD to the HDTV, but that same signal would show up also on the S-video path and thus be easier for them to "find". The ability of this AVR to switch the audio and video together eliminated the need for the redundant cables. Replacing audio cabling with optical cables from my HDTV tuner and from the DVD player also simplified things in the back. I also eliminated an HDMI switch that's not needed (until I get a PS3!).

Hooking up inputs was a little trickier than I expected. One obvious issue is the design putting so much distance between the video and audio inputs. My daughter's Wii 3-conductor AV cable had to be split a ways before it could be plugged in. My "regular" heavy AV cables had no problem. A more subtle issue is the small number of inputs (2) for - as in my case - sources putting a video signal over HDMI with audio over toslink or coax. The two HDMI inputs are paired to the two digital audio inputs. I was hoping to use the front panel toslink for audio from my MacBook, with the video going to the HDMI "DVD" input. (The video from my DVD actually goes into the component input, so the HDMI slot is open.) I was unable to make this work; if you choose "DVD" as the video source, you cannot choose the front aux audio. The good news is that the AVR defaults to use an audio signal on, in order: HDMI, coax, optical, analog. It also chooses an HDMI video signal over the component inputs. This means I can have leave the cables for Macbook video and audio in respectively the HDMI input and the optical input, and leave the DVD audio cable in the coax input. This way the AVR will use the MacBook as the DVD when it is present, but fall back to the DVD player when it's the source. This even worked for the Wii, which is all analog. All 3 sources, MacBook, DVD and Wii, were in the DVD inputs and the AVR just picked the source with the live signal. Cool.

CONS Box The packaging was generally great but the box is labeled "7 X 110 watts". Isn't that a bit misleading at best and fraudulent at worst? I knew what I was buying and don't really care, but this is a cruel taunt. Correction: I see now the box does have fine print explaining the 7 X 95 watts at more rigorous conditions.
Speaker Impedance There should be a sterner warning about setting this, and it shouldn't wait for page 28. I'll bet most people (male people, anyway) will set up their receiver and turn it on to listen to the radio before they sit down and read the manual for the details. It's odd that everything else is set using the OSD, but not this crucial (?) parameter.
Learning Curve Beyond the limited inputs noted in the setup issue above, this AVR has a pretty steep learning curve to sort out all the sound fields and enhancers and such. The Scene functions help a lot in getting you started with the major functions. Yamaha does provide the "quick start" hookup guide, but after that you're on your own with the manual.
Remote Oh crap, this is not a learning remote like my old one. As far as I can tell, it cannot control my Samsung tuner. Ever. It does turn my plasma on and off, and I'm still working on getting the right codes for the DVD player and the cable tuner. Otherwise it seems light, quick and well laid out.
OSD Where the hell is the OSD? It took me a while - even with the manual - to finally get something on screen. I'm really surprised the interface doesn't start with a single "Display" button for a top-level menu from which everything else could be drilled down to. There is indeed a "display" button, but it does precisely nothing when pressed by itself. That's just bad design. And when you finally do get things on screen, they're specific to whatever buttons you did press. So you can't always get there from here. And you can't always even navigate around a menu without pressing additional buttons (eg. the AMP button). But, once you're at the right menu and know the tricks, setup is easy. Another gripe about the OSD is that when you exit, the video sync always goes off. In my case the picture turns green. I have to toggle from one input to another and back again to get the picture right.
Video Sync In addition to the OSD issue above, I'm having trouble holding onto the analog cable box signal. It drops in and out. The analog signal from the VCR might be having this problem also - I'm still experimenting. No issue like this with the digital video sources (tuner and MacBook). I do have resolution switching issues with the digital sources. for instance sometimes my MacBook sees the 663 as the display rather than the Panasonic HDTV. I can fix this easily by polling the displays again on the MacBook; this makes the 663 disappear and be replaced by the Panasonic. I'm seeing aspect ratio oddities with the tuner also, but in general everything can be made to work fine with a little tinkering. It may settle down once the OSD is not being used too much.
PROS All the cons listed above are the things you uncover as obstacles in the first few hours of ownership. What? I can't do that? Wait a minute, what did the manual say again? None of the cons are anywhere near being deal-breakers. Quite the contrary. So far I'm blown away by the overall performance and happy to carry away an armful of cables I don't need anymore. I have nothing to compare it to except my old RX-V870, but that was not bad, and I can say the extra discrete channels really make a difference. I watched Live Free or Die Hard last night and the action scenes in Dolby Digital were all I needed to justify my upgrade. No regrets, great sound and great features as promised.
post #1553 of 11036
How does the receiver do decoding DTS-MA? This thread reports popping on some Yamaha receivers.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1008620

Relevant quote from
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...6#post13436846

Quote:


DTS Global Product manager Ronny Katz confirms that the problem is caused by a faulty DTS Decoder Chip (IC) in the Receivers of the companies of Onkyo and Yamaha. Recievers from Denon, Pioneer and Sony, which uses a different DTS Decoder Chip are unaffected and has no difficulties bit-streaming the DTS-HD MA tracks from the titles concerned. DTS has a made a fix/update to their Encoding software which will address the problem by taking the faulty DTS Decoder Chip into consideration, thus avoiding the issue on future Blu-Ray releases. It is however unknown at this time, if the Recievers with the faulty DTS Decoder chips can be fixed to work with the current DTS-MA discs by firmware update.
post #1554 of 11036
Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt1966 View Post

If you are running a 3.0 system change all your speakers to "large". Having them set to small will send the low frequencies to the sub, which you don't have. Either that or select "no sub" and it should change all the speakers to large.

If you are getting a test tone to the center speaker from the setup menu it should be working.

Is the test tone in the center channel as loud as the R&L?

Are you using some kind of a digital audio connection to the receiver?
Are you listening to something that has a 5.1 soundtrack?

EDIT:
Also, I know next to noting about the PS3, so check the settings in that as well. Make sure it is putting out more than stereo.


Thanks for your help so far, Matt.

Front L and R and C are now all set to large. The "program" setting is set to 7ch stereo. All test tones output correctly to each speaker and at equal volumes. I changed the settings on the PS3 to accept all signals listed (looking through them each is supported by the 663 I think) and now all of the channels on the display are illuminated.

I tried a BD movie and all speakers are working but it seems the same sounds come out of each one, ie there isnt just voice and dialog going to the center, etc.

Should the "program" be set to 7ch stereo or Straight, or something else?



Thanks again for your help!
post #1555 of 11036
Quote:
Originally Posted by waynehend View Post

I watched Live Free or Die Hard last night and the action scenes in Dolby Digital were all I needed to justify my upgrade. No regrets, great sound and great features as promised.

Waynehend,
Thanks for sharing you experiences with the receiver. Let us know what you sort out with your video issues.

I really liked "Live Free or Die Hard" on blu-ray. Even the DTS-Core track rocks

Have Fun!
post #1556 of 11036
Quote:
Originally Posted by t4t3r View Post

Thanks for your help so far, Matt.

Front L and R and C are now all set to large. The "program" setting is set to 7ch stereo. All test tones output correctly to each speaker and at equal volumes. I changed the settings on the PS3 to accept all signals listed (looking through them each is supported by the 663 I think) and now all of the channels on the display are illuminated.

I tried a BD movie and all speakers are working but it seems the same sounds come out of each one, ie there isnt just voice and dialog going to the center, etc.

Should the "program" be set to 7ch stereo or Straight, or something else?





Thanks again for your help!

You're welcom. Happy to help.

More than just dialog will come through the center speaker, so that should be fine.

Try using Straight. I've never set up my receiver without rear surrounds, so you will have to experiment with which one you like.

7 channel stereo may send everything to the front three speakers in your case. I believe using "straight" (Virtual CINEMA DSP) will simulate surround sound if you don't have rear speakers. See page 51 in the manual.
post #1557 of 11036
Quote:
Originally Posted by t4t3r View Post

Thanks for your help so far, Matt.

Front L and R and C are now all set to large. The "program" setting is set to 7ch stereo. All test tones output correctly to each speaker and at equal volumes. I changed the settings on the PS3 to accept all signals listed (looking through them each is supported by the 663 I think) and now all of the channels on the display are illuminated.

I tried a BD movie and all speakers are working but it seems the same sounds come out of each one, ie there isnt just voice and dialog going to the center, etc.

Should the "program" be set to 7ch stereo or Straight, or something else?

Thanks again for your help!

I suspect 7-channel stereo might be best since it will simply assume a stereo source and send to all speakers. I believe the book uses an example of a party where loudness is more important than quality.

Of course, I would hurry up and buy two back speakers so you can really listen to surround sound! Then I would choose "straight".
post #1558 of 11036
I'm still seeing this routinely but I've learned more about the details of exactly what evokes it. Any time I switch to the DTV/CBL into which my Samsung tuner is plugged via HDMI, from either my VCR or cable box (composite video, in the DVR input) or leave the OSD, I get the HDTV signal but it's almost all green. Like black and white with white replaced by green. I can quickly fix this by toggling to the DVD player and back. Oddly, switching from Scene 1 (DVD viewing) to Scene 3 (TV viewing, using the Samsung tuner) will also give the green screen. Again, choosing the DVD briefly and coming back to the tuner fixes it. The green screen DOES NOT appear after using the OSD from ANY OTHER SOURCE; from my VCR, cable box, or DVD player.

So, I'm beginning to think my problem has a lot more to do with my Samsung tuner - or its unfortunate pairing with the Yamaha - than with the AVR itself.

I am not continuing to have video problems while watching the VCR or cable box. The "dropping out" I first reported is just...gone. Don't know what that was all about. Maybe it was the cable signal itself at that moment. We were in the midst of a snowstorm.

Calibrated with the YPAO today. Very easy, and I'd say it got it right. No reports of mis-wiring. It boosted my rear speakers a bit and also the speakers on the open side of the viewing area, opposite the wall on the other side. Makes sense.

Loving it more and more, now that I've conquered control of this beast.
post #1559 of 11036
This is my first post but I've been educating myself on this thread for the last couple of weeks. As a n00b let me just say thanks a million for the great insight and advice you guys give.

I, like many others, decided to check out this forum before purchasing my HT system and I'm glad I did. I only had about 2K so I decided on the 663, Polk L70s (fronts), Klipsch R10 (surrounds), Yamaha C444 (center), Velodyne DPS10 (sub), and Emotiva LPA1 (Amp - will see if I really need).

Just got the 663 last night and have spent most of the day getting acquainted with my 'little friend'. But I have an issue that I don't think anyone has mentioned. When I switch to TV Viewing, the video feed to my monitor (Samsung 4665) is flickering and the sound is intermittent. The indicator is blinking on the front panel of the AVR like... bad reception. I have the 3.1b HDMI cables connecting everything... cable box to 663 (IN2), into monitor. Checked the Input setup to make sure the I/O assignment for the DTV-CBL was designated to HDMI 2. When I connect to directly from cable box to monitor, no problems.

Any help would be greatly appreciated. Please don't flame to hard... trying to catch up. Last system was a 2 ch. Studio Standard Fisher Integrated Amp, JVC phono and Kenwoods 777, if that tells you anything.

Thanks for the assistance you've already shared.
post #1560 of 11036
Quote:
Originally Posted by slim0246 View Post

Quick question, is there any way to set it so the receiver will pass audio to the TV as well as through the receiver. At night when my wife is asleep I'd like to be able to turn the receiver volume off and use the TVs volume. Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks!

Yes, this setting is in the HDMI menus somewhere. Not a "quick setting", but it's there.
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