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Will this riser design work?

post #1 of 14
2/17/08 at 10:21pm
Thread Starter 
I've never built a riser before, read plenty of threads about them and thinking about putting one together. My HT is mostly torn down right now (temporarily) so it would be a good time for me to do one.

Size will most likely be 120" x 72", this is what I've mocked up with sketchup:
http://my.fit.edu/~jgillow/images/HT/Riser.png [1.6M]

I can get sheets of 4x8 and 2x4 1/2" or 3/4" MDF at the local Home Depot, I was thinking of doing overlapping layers of the thinner 1/2" for a total of 1" on top. Roofer's felt between the layers. Vertical supports will be either 2x6 (as shown) or 2x4, depending on how tall the theater chairs are that should be arriving Tuesday.

I'll be filling the cavities with insulation, not planning to use a bottom on the riser just going to set it directly on my existing carpet. No equipment will be on the riser, just a row of 3 chairs. HD has some commercial carpet for 50 cents per sq ft that looks nice enough to use as a surface.

Couple of questions for the experienced folks:

1. Should I just screw directly through one 2x6 into another or should I use one of the metal brackets at each joint? I've seen some riser pics where people did the latter, I'm guessing it's more rigid?

2. I've never carpeted something like this before, can staples be used with thin carpet or do they have to be nails? Also does the carpet get tacked down at all on the top surface, or just under the edge of the riser where the nails/staples/etc wouldn't be seen? If anybody knows of a guide for carpeting risers I would be very interested in that.

3. Is felt just used between the two MDF layers or is it also used between the MDF/2x6 boundary?

4. I haven't priced out insulation yet, how much do you think it would cost to fill this size structure?

Thanks,
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post #2 of 14
2/17/08 at 10:40pm
I don't think 5 inches is enough. Use at least a 2X10 for your perimeter.
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post #3 of 14
2/18/08 at 4:57am
1) just screw it. You would use the hangers if the middle supports weren't resting on the ground.

2) Carpet goes on top and is stapled only under the lip. You should round over the lip to make it easier to wrap the carpet.

Once the top piece is on you cut strips of carpet and do the sides. They installed mine with staples. No Nails. There is a carpet edge sealer/glue that you can use to keep any cut edges from fraying and to secure loose threads. It's the same as the stuff used on fabric and you could get at a fabric store if you can't find it where you get the carpet.
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post #4 of 14
2/18/08 at 6:27am
Quote:
Originally Posted by mn_hokie View Post

I don't think 5 inches is enough. Use at least a 2X10 for your perimeter.

I agree. jvgillow, use this link to determine your riser height. Also 2 1/2" ply on top should be sufficient as well. Also when my riser was carpeted I drilled several 3" holes in the front to help with bass absorption and only put carpet around the sides with no padding.
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post #5 of 14
2/18/08 at 6:38am
Thread Starter 
Thanks for the tips so far guys.

I should have mentioned in the original post that my projector is placed on a stand behind my seating (I can't mount on the ceiling). So my riser can't be very high. The couch that I have in front is already a low-height design, so I think I just need to raise the theater seats (Coasters) a little bit, not 10+ inches.
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post #6 of 14
2/18/08 at 7:00am
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dark_Wizard View Post

Also when my riser was carpeted I drilled several 3" holes in the front to help with bass absorption and only put carpet around the sides with no padding.

DW
Just to clarify....did you cut holes all around the riser base and then just cover the holes with the carpet? How many holes did you use?
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post #7 of 14
2/18/08 at 8:29am
Riser 101 Q:
(I did NOT do a forum search on this either.....)

Somewhere I remember reading you should keep riser height below a stair height (8") or your inspector may require a "mid-step" to keep the step height 8" or less.
I made mine with 2 x 8's (7.5" height) + 3/4" top board, so mine are just 8 1/4" relative to floor.
Any issue with you people with 10" or 11" high risers?
Do people who step up those ever "complain" about the height is more than expected, since we are such creatures of normal expectation and this might catch people off guard?
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post #8 of 14
2/18/08 at 8:39am
Anything 10" or under should be fine without a step. I'm planning on a 12" riser my next time around, and I'll include a step.

I don't believe risers are part of the inspection process.
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post #9 of 14
2/18/08 at 8:45am
I believe risers are part of the inspection process, at least for new houses under construction and you will need to be about 8" - 9" or less not to need a step. Some parts of the country may require inspection even if it is not a new construction. I don't know this for fact but it is as much as I have gathered reading these forums. Still seems to be different requirements for different counties.
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post #10 of 14
2/18/08 at 10:11am
Quote:
Originally Posted by tradewinds View Post

I believe risers are part of the inspection process, at least for new houses under construction and you will need to be about 8" - 9" or less not to need a step. Some parts of the country may require inspection even if it is not a new construction. I don't know this for fact but it is as much as I have gathered reading these forums. Still seems to be different requirements for different counties.

From this forum sticky thread on Risers, post #34:
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...11#post5635011

Quote:


BTW,
The building code requires that a step in a home is no greater than 8" per step, and the run (tread depth) is no shorter than 9".

Above 8", you have to install a step on each side and that eats floorspace and/or riser space. A 10-12" run on a tread height that is half the riser height is the rule for us, no higher than 16" of course, or a third step is req'd.
Also, 4 or more steps require a handrail in any area, and in some areas it is 3 or more steps.

DIY theater guys need to heed the building codes if you ever want to sell your homes down the road. Otherwise some of your theater budget for your new home will be spent making changes to the theater you are leaving before you can sell the house.
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post #11 of 14
2/18/08 at 10:42am
Quote:
Originally Posted by jvgillow View Post

I've never built a riser before, read plenty of threads about them and thinking about putting one together. My HT is mostly torn down right now (temporarily) so it would be a good time for me to do one.

Size will most likely be 120" x 72", this is what I've mocked up with sketchup:
http://my.fit.edu/~jgillow/images/HT/Riser.png [1.6M]

I can get sheets of 4x8 and 2x4 1/2" or 3/4" MDF at the local Home Depot, I was thinking of doing overlapping layers of the thinner 1/2" for a total of 1" on top. Roofer's felt between the layers. Vertical supports will be either 2x6 (as shown) or 2x4, depending on how tall the theater chairs are that should be arriving Tuesday.

I'll be filling the cavities with insulation, not planning to use a bottom on the riser just going to set it directly on my existing carpet. No equipment will be on the riser, just a row of 3 chairs. HD has some commercial carpet for 50 cents per sq ft that looks nice enough to use as a surface.

Couple of questions for the experienced folks:

1. Should I just screw directly through one 2x6 into another or should I use one of the metal brackets at each joint? I've seen some riser pics where people did the latter, I'm guessing it's more rigid?

2. I've never carpeted something like this before, can staples be used with thin carpet or do they have to be nails? Also does the carpet get tacked down at all on the top surface, or just under the edge of the riser where the nails/staples/etc wouldn't be seen? If anybody knows of a guide for carpeting risers I would be very interested in that.

3. Is felt just used between the two MDF layers or is it also used between the MDF/2x6 boundary?

4. I haven't priced out insulation yet, how much do you think it would cost to fill this size structure?

Thanks,

It appears many of your questions have been answered already, but I will give you my 2 cents based on my recent experience building/carpeting the riser.

My first question back to you is whether you have used the riser calculator to determine the height you need for your riser?

1) Since your joists are resting on the ground, you do not need the brackets; however, I would toe screw/nail on each side of the joist rather than directly screwing. This will provide a more stability.

2) Even with thin carpet you should use carpet cushion underneath. This will provide a softer surface and provide some noise barrier. Use carpet tacks along the edge, and staple under the lip. Again, I would recommend a pneumatic stapler rather than hand or electric - more powerful and the crown staples hold much better. (This I learned first hand). I got a complete Husky system for ~$60 including stapler and compressor. This will help keep the carpet taught on top. I personally used one large piece of carpet for my riser - except for the step. I also recommend a carpet stretcher, which you can rent from your local rental/hardware store. Cost me 15/day rental for the knee kick variety.

3) I see no reason why this wouldn't be alright.

4) Not sure - Couple rolls of insulation should do.

Hope this helps and good luck.
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post #12 of 14
2/18/08 at 11:54am
Quote:
Originally Posted by okron View Post

DW
Just to clarify....did you cut holes all around the riser base and then just cover the holes with the carpet? How many holes did you use?

I only put 4 3" holes in the front facing the sub and carpeted over it. I have read in a few places where people do this when they don't have the room for bass traps in the rear of the theater which is my case. Hey, who knows I just read it and thought it was a good idea.
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post #13 of 14
2/18/08 at 11:58am
Quote:
Originally Posted by mn_hokie View Post

Anything 10" or under should be fine without a step. I'm planning on a 12" riser my next time around, and I'll include a step.

I don't believe risers are part of the inspection process.

Most code requirements are that anything that is a structure (in this case the riser) is over 8" high requires a step. Next thing would be is I would be very careful because if someone gets hurt you may be liable so check on your codes and please don't assume.
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post #14 of 14
2/20/08 at 9:16pm
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dark_Wizard View Post

I only put 4 3" holes in the front facing the sub and carpeted over it. I have read in a few places where people do this when they don't have the room for bass traps in the rear of the theater which is my case. Hey, who knows I just read it and thought it was a good idea.

Probably better to put 4" x 10" holes on the top of the riser and cover with HVAC registers. That is to capture some axial modes for bass trap. I think the holes in the front is for the Helmholtz resonator.
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