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DIY construction methods of hang-able acoustic panels & moveable Corner traps (not fixed frames)

232K views 192 replies 44 participants last post by  EpicFirth 
#1 · (Edited)
Background:
I've been thinking to make a separate thread on the DIY construction methods of hang-able acoustic panels, that can be located specifically only where needed.
Also moveable as your speaker type/location changes, your treatment needs may change.
Currently none exist that give a really good start-finish, I've searched AVS forum.

Just these for Fabric frames, which are integrated as part of the wall itself, not hanging and specific locatable.
(these are great threads btw for those whole wall coverage methods)
Fabric Frames - GPowers Thread , Another Fabric Frame Thread - Canvas Stretcher Bars

In my viewpoint, the Acoustical Treatments Master Thread is more for the theory, science, and practical application for acoustics of your particular room situation/issue, not the DIY construction methods, that will clutter it too much.

This thread purpose is NOT what your rooms acoustic needs are, rather once you study, plan, and develop your rooms acoustic needs, how to go about building it yourself.
[edit] since making this thread some specific acoustic issues have been discussed and addressed, however there are other more suitable threads for the theory, think of this as the application thread.

So, here it is, a dedicated thread for DIY construction methods of hang-able acoustic panels, to start I plan on sharing what I've done:
-DIY side wall absorption panels construction and hanging, http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=19947559#post19947559


-DIY ceiling absorption panels panels construction and hanging
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=19987283#post19987283 and http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=20074007#post20074007



-Here is removable lower tri-corner superchunk bass trap made with 1/2-13 thd rod and OC705, from post #40 http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=19993984#post19993984
and Upper tri-corner bass traps (since I made these it's been proven via gas flow resistivity its best for deep traps like these to use pink fluffy)
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=20085872#post20085872

Eric helped with his pink fluffy version of my movable corner bass traps
http://www.avsforum.com/forum/19-de...er-traps-not-fixed-frames-5.html#post22131618 .

Discussion related to corner bass traps; gas flow resistivity, why cover them to reflect mid-high's, etc


others in this thread:
-smokarz built his own side wall 2' x 4' panels, post #36 here http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=19993492#post19993492


-localhost127 built his own side wall 4" thick 2' x 4' panels with exposed sides for more absorption , post # 86 here http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=20271296#post20271296



There are already "fixed" bass trap threads, here are links to them.
AVS site:

Show us your custom made corner bass traps (pics)
(btw, as of 2/5/0-11 pepar updated his pict links, I need chinaclipper and pred02 to do same )
Other site:
Gearslutz.com, here is a link to their "How I built my bass (broadband) traps..." sticky, over 31 pages of info!
http://www.gearslutz.com/board/bass-traps-acoustic-panels-foam-etc/87464-how-i-built-my-bass-traps.html

I added my own twist to building corner superchunk with "green" material, some might like a different approach.
http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?p=20588838#post20588838

I'd like others who make DIY hang-able acoustic panels, whether absorption, diffusion, reflection, etc. to also feel free to add your construction techniques/methods there.
>>We need to learn from you!

[edit Feb 2, 2011]
placeholder for those already done DIY hang-able acoustic panels-pm me your details and I'll post link here

Side note:
I have this general suggestion for those wanting to learn about acoustics:

A) read this Acoustics/Treatment Reference Guide , via gearslutz, its a easy read in layman terms, starts you off with basics and good foundation with practical discussion. Studio acoustics and Home Theater acoustics.
From that, simple/straight forward advice via Jens Eklund:
Quote:

1. Learn how to make measurements: REW - Room EQ Wizard Home Page
Don’t do anything without measurements.

2. Define your MLP (Master listening position). Confirm with measurements.

3. Identify and treat your modal and SBIR - Speaker Boundary Interference Response related issues and educate yourself about different bass-absorbing techniques.
Other info: SBIR by Bryan Pape

4. Treat areas that otherwise creates early reflections.

5. If the room is big enough, add diffusers

Always base your decisions regarding different treatment, on measurements. Avoid thin porous only absorbers (including wall to wall –carpet, drapes etc.) unless a measurement indicates the need for it.


B) Knowing that for “best” audio/sound in a listening room, these parameters are tackled in prioritized order:
1. Speaker location, 2. Listener position, 3. Acoustic treatments, 4. Electronic correction.
Understand the small room acoustic model you will follow.
Looking at this link, everyone can see visually the various small room models, it's 7 pages from the book "Acoustics and Psychoacoustics Applied"
http://eetimes.com/design/audio-desi...n?pageNumber=0

C) If you have desire for more knowledge:
-read one of many books out there, a great 1st book is "Master Handbook of Acoustics" by F. Alton Everest, a perfect follow-up book is "Sound Reproduction: The Acoustics and Psychoacoustics of Loudspeakers and Rooms" by Floyd Toole.
-shameless plug for Ethan Winers book also, "The Audio Expert".
.. ..

-study Ethan Winers site, http://www.ethanwiner.com/acoustics.html
-Become familiar with the different small room acoustic models for home listening spaces
-This is also a 101 read on Room Acoustics, http://www.crutchfield.com/learn/learningcenter/home/speakers_roomacoustics.html
-SAE Home Acoustics info site has many definitions and explanations http://www.sae.edu/reference_material/audio/pages/fullindex.htm
-There are many other sites on the web, like
........One of the first ones, StudioTips small room acoustics forum http://forum.studiotips.com/index.php,
........Acoustical measurements defined Rives audio http://www.positive-feedback.com/Issue12/rives2.htm,
........RPG Acoustics Library papers http://www.rpginc.com/news/library.htm, etc.
-Be careful of info overload all at once

D) Measurement info/threads:

-online downloadable file with the Sound System Engineering chapter 6 on measurements http://www.focalpress.com/uploadedFiles/Books/Book_Media/Audio/9780240808307.pdf
-Get the hardware side of REW down quickly, this thread by member omegaslast dummy's guide on setting up REW and his blog http://polaraudio.blogspot.com/2012/01/calibration.html easy 101 read with pictures to walk you thru the mechanical of set-up and taking measurements
-Highly recommend Nyal Mellor's site, http://www.acousticfrontiers.com/Aco...surements.html , and a very detailed/helpful white paper http://blog.acousticfrontiers.com/st...ist.%20Rms.pdf
-Room Measurement & Treatment by "fotto" (Floyd)

- Envelope Time Curve - ETC - Impulse gearslutz thread
-Using energy time curve for acoustic analysis: by "mtbdudex" (Mike R)
-Why just using 1" thick porous absorber treatment is "wrong" http://www.avsforum.com/t/1369498/early-reflection-panel-thickness
-http://www.avsforum.com/t/1421599/etc-isd-gap-question ETC - ISD gap by
-Basic acoustic measurement primer v2.1 (via gearslutz "DanDan")
-http://www.realtraps.com/art_measuring.htm

-http://www.avsforum.com/t/1316623/d...poster-acoustic-panels-cheap/60#post_20147783 DIY Custom-Printed Movie Poster Acoustic Panels
-first reflection software: http://www.avsforum.com/t/822273/fr...our-first-reflection-points/240#post_22619555
-a while back I downloaded this Measurement/calibration sequence from Dennis Erskine.
RoomMeasurementSet-up.zip 4.990234375k . file
 

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#52 ·
Upper bass traps update: both will be removable and not fixed/built onto the wall.


These will be just 24" tall-ish, I'll use 3/18-16 thd rod, stick with the 1/2" birch plywood for both top/bottom, and on the top use the T-nuts so it can mount flush to the ceiling.



Plan A:

"smaller" triangles 17" x 17" x 24".

I was just going to build these, then I was wondering about what was the largest size I could build/fit up there?



Plan B:

I'll call this the "Trapezoid wedgie bass trap", consists of smaller triangles 17" x 17" x 24" blending into the biggie 24" x 24" x 34" to get more low freq absorption.

The thd rod will be hidden inside the bass trap except will show on the bottom.



I'm 90% going with Plan B, I think it will look nicer up there and the hidden rods is better for the upper location.

Unless I move those sconces full 24" x 24" x 34" size won't fit.


Additional 1/2" Birch plywood and thd rod/hardware bought yesterday.

This afternoon is build time.

I've got an idea on hidden holding system, will work on it a little more and if its doable will go with that.


btw, not all the Star Trek stuff will stay there, it will be de-cluttered, just showing my kids some of the stuff I had back in the day.

And YES, those Star Wars glasses are original Burger King glasses from the early 1980's, and those are genuine Apollo 13 glasses as well.

Unfortunately, Leonard Nimoy has not signed my "I am Not Spock" book...


Am I the only geek here with this stuff??

My kids think it's all COOL
 
#53 ·
Mike,


Really good project progress reports, I'm impressed with your results. I'm in Northern Indiana and trying to figure out how to do something similiar.


Did anybody see or try the NuWool product,
cellulose instead of fiberglass ?


Your fiberglass knife cutting experiences for the triangles is what I'm trying to figure out for this cellulose product. Guess I'll have to call and find out.


Anyway thanks for all the great ideas.


Also trying to figure out how the pdf test results from Riverbank Acoustical labs compares to OC703 fiberglass.


Anybody have any experience with this cellulose type compressed product ?
 
#54 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by BruceD /forum/post/20034637


Mike,


Really good project progress reports, I'm impressed with your results. I'm in Northern Indiana and trying to figure out how to do something similiar.


Did anybody see or try the NuWool product,
cellulose instead of fiberglass ?


Your fiberglass knife cutting experiences for the triangles is what I'm trying to figure out for this cellulose product. Guess I'll have to call and find out.


Anyway thanks for all the great ideas.


Also trying to figure out how the pdf test results from Riverbank Acoustical labs compares to OC703 fiberglass.


Anybody have any experience with this cellulose type compressed product ?

nope, never tried them...but wow...~$230 for 12 pieces (24x48x2).


i can get 36 pieces of 703 for that price.
 
#55 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by BruceD /forum/post/20034637


Mike,


Really good project progress reports, I'm impressed with your results. I'm in Northern Indiana and trying to figure out how to do something similiar.


Did anybody see or try the NuWool product,
cellulose instead of fiberglass ?


Your fiberglass knife cutting experiences for the triangles is what I'm trying to figure out for this cellulose product. Guess I'll have to call and find out.


Anyway thanks for all the great ideas.


Also trying to figure out how the pdf test results from Riverbank Acoustical labs compares to OC703 fiberglass.


Anybody have any experience with this cellulose type compressed product ?


Well looking at the data it sure seems to have much better low freq absorption characteristics....
http://www.acoustimac.com/index.php/...oinsul422.html
Quote:
Quote:
Sound Absorption Coefficients (1/3 Octave Band Center Frequencies. HZ)


Hz

100 125 250 500 1000 2000 4000

2" Thickness 0.38 .39 .63 1.18 1.11 1.06 1.09


An even greener alternative to cotton insulation:


Cotton insulation works as well as its fiberglass counterparts, however this material can be prone to mold and is not as biodegradable and recyclable as cellulose which is made from recycled newspapers and cardboard products.


Better Performance than Fiberglass!


Oh yes, it’s true! This cellulose based insulation has even higher absorption coefficients than our standard insulation material, so not only is it more eco-friendly, it also outperforms its fiberglass and mineral wool counterparts hands down.
Quote:
Freq 125 HZ 250 HZ 500 HZ 1000 HZ 2000 HZ 4000 HZ NRC

OC-703 (2") 0.17 0.86 1.14 1.07 1.02 0.98 1.00
Quote:
Freq 125 HZ 250 HZ 500 HZ 1000 HZ 2000 HZ 4000 HZ NRC

OC-705 0.16 0.71 1.02 1.01 0.99 0.99 0.95

and when you compare the online price of 705 to this ....so you get your cake (better low freq absorption) and get to eat it too (lower cost/6 pcs).....I need more 705, now I'll re-think that and consider this.

Thx for posting!

(Bruce - let me know what they say about cutting it, if a serrated bread knife does it same as thru OC703/705 that would be nice.)


For their ECOUSTIMAC line, has there been 3rd party testing to confirm their claims?

I'd hate to be 1st on the block in avs community to use them.....I wonder if Ethan W/Dennis E/others have used their product.....
 
#56 ·
Today's progress;

(2) "Trapezoid wedgie bass trap's" frames cut, stained, painted blk thd rod/hardware, assembled.

When you tighten the nuts up there is very little flex in this assembly, even prior to having the insulation in it.

There are other ways to make these obviously, but the thd rod IMO is easy, simple, and adjustable.


They are shown upside down here, that is how I'll cut/load them, starting from the big 24" x 24" x 34" triangles, and blending into the 17" x 17" x 24" as last one.

The 3/8-16 T-nut's worked perfect, nice and flush for ceiling mtg.



I'm needing more OC705 or the new stuff BruceD brought up, ECOUSTIMAC Eco Friendly DIY Insulation.

I need (6) sheets of 2" 2' x 4' panels for these 2 bass traps, then I need (18) more sheets of same for my front wall bass traps...I'm, leaning towards the ECOUSTIMAC stuff.


As Ethan W has said quite often, "You can never have too many bass traps"
 
#57 ·
I just spoke with ECOUSTIMAC sales staff, there is no shipping discount if I order one case (6 2" 2' x 4' panels) or three (18 panels).

Therefore I ordered one case for now to tryout this material for the upper rear wall bass traps, hopefully I'll have it by Friday and can complete them this upcoming weekend.


Therefore, to keep progress I'll now work on the 1st row ceiling acoustic cloud during the week.

Some minor lessons learned from the 2nd row panel I made 2 weeks ago I'll try and doument for others (small easier making steps, etc).
 
#58 ·
I have some questions about wrapping the panels around the wood frames with fabric:


How do you wrap the fabric at the corners of the frames?

Do you cut out a square section of fabric at each corner (so you just can wrap the fabric around the sides without any folds)?

Do you overlap the fabric to ensure the wood is not visible?
 
#59 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by snooktarpon /forum/post/20060230


I have some questions about wrapping the panels around the wood frames with fabric:


How do you wrap the fabric at the corners of the frames?

Do you cut out a square section of fabric at each corner (so you just can wrap the fabric around the sides without any folds)?

Do you overlap the fabric to ensure the wood is not visible?

snooktarpon;

My side wall panels wood frames were left exposed, I only wrapped the OC703 with fabric.


Member "luma" did a good explaination with his method of wrapping fabric over wood frames, look here http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=1316623


For the ceiling panels, which I did wrap fabric over wood, I did NOT cut any fabric, rather just wrapped the ends exactly like a gift box.

IMO that can be done tight and look good.

Just pratice it and adjust your method on the fly....


Take picts of your build and post them here!

Have fun and enjoy the better acoustics.


From post#27 in this thread:
Quote:
Edges wrapped like a box gift, this is ceiling side so "perfection" not needed here, still want a secure wrap.
 
#60 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by mtbdudex /forum/post/20044044


I just spoke with ECOUSTIMAC sales staff, there is no shipping discount if I order one case (6 2" 2' x 4' panels) or three (18 panels).

Therefore I ordered one case for now to tryout this material for the upper rear wall bass traps, hopefully I'll have it by Friday and can complete them this upcoming weekend.

Good news/bad news.


Good news:

Got the ECOUSTIMAC eco line stuff, non itchy, Friday 3pm delivered.


Bad news:

Its not truly 2' x 4'.

Both OC703 and OC705 are EXACTLY 24" x 48", I've got my triangle templates cut to make those.


I was about to use those on the ECOUSTIMAC eco line stuff, and something just did not line up.

So, like the old addage measure twice, cut once, I measured them they are....23 1/8" x 47 1/8". All 6 panels measure that.

Sounds small but when you've designed your templates AND your bass trap to a full 24" x 48" adjusting at the last minute is a PIA!

I'll post picts later.

From their website, http://www.acoustimac.com/index.php/...oinsul422.html , they state (and I'm quoting here):
Quote:
Each panel measures 48"x24"x2"

Now, I'm making templates for those "reduced size" 23 1/8" x 47 1/8".
 
#62 ·
Home Theater Ceiling Acoustic "Cloud" - Part III 1st row

Quote:
Originally Posted by mtbdudex /forum/post/19987283


Home Theater Ceiling Acoustic "Cloud" - Part II


This 2nd row ceiling treatment catches some of the light from those 3 can lights, but its not so bad.

However, my 1st row - possible acoustic ceiling cloud, would block all 3 lights, so I'll need to address that at later date.

Made the 1st row Acoustic "Cloud", it was finished Thur Feb 24 and installed that evening.

Very similar to the 2nd row with some changes noted below:


Change 1:

I made the end cross braces 23 3/4" instead of 24" like prior, this gave a good "squeeze" grip onto the rigid OC703.

(1st one I only made the inside cross braces smaller)

Really, my wife and I lifted the cloud frame with the OC703 and it was held tightly inside, of course the fabric was securely stapled as prior.



Change 2:

I wanted to only catch the 1st reflections, yet wanted same size as 2nd row for aesticts, so using the mirror on the ceiling (2 person job), the blue tabe shows the boundary for seeing the speakers on each end.

I therefore blocked the mi-hi frequency by using a 12" x 24" piece of kraft paper on the LH side and a 18" x 24" piece of kraft paper on the RH side.

By doing so I still will get the broadband bass effects there w/o over damping the room.



Change 3:

Installed, I added extra chain links into the 8 chains, in future I could lower these 2" or even 4" and add more OC on top for more broadband bass absorption - this is a future option just making easier now by doing this.

Currently I'm 12" below the ceiling with 4" depth of OC703.

By the 1/4 wave guideline I should be using 6" depth currently, I've got 6 sheets of OC703 unused, if I don't use them for some limited rear wall absorber (instead of diffuser since 2nd row is quite close to rear wall) then they will go "in the clouds" ..




I have 2 ideas on the 1st row ceiling lighting, that is side project.


Note:

For my side wall treatments with exposed framing I was really concerned about the fibergalss panels not being "gripped"/held - the young kids issue for me, that is why I went thru all the hassle of the routered center.

Now, with the 1/4" squeeze" seem's that might work as well, and much easier.

Lesson learned for others making side treatment panels with fully exposed frames to consider.

(I did not want to put something like 1/4 round mldg there either to trap the wrapped fiberglass panel, though that is another option)
 
#63 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by mtbdudex /forum/post/20022278


I'm still waiting for you to post that picture Glenn



Update on DIY artwork acoustic fabric panels:

The printer is a HP 9000 series Designjet Low-solvent,
http://www.hp.com/united-states/desi...0/index_f.html





They are going to give me a printed 8" x 10" sample of each material, I'll do the breath test, then follow-up by nearfield speaker test without and with the material in front of my Berrigner 8000 mic. Probably not the most accurate, but the only way I can get some objective data.


Did you ever test this? I have one of these at work which I can use - but I have no material to test with. I am very interested in your results.
 
#64 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by cybrsage /forum/post/20074289


Did you ever test this? I have one of these at work which I can use - but I have no material to test with. I am very interested in your results.


Actually I just got email Thursday that the 8" x 8" samples from the local guy are ready for my pick-up, but was too busy to stop by last week.

I'll be getting them tonight on way home from work and test them weekend of 3/5, or more likely 3/12 when the other samples from Spoonflower come in for efficiency and comparision will be more apples-apples http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...0#post20055530
Quote:
From: SBT - Brighton

To: Mike

Sent: Thu, February 24, 2011 2:09:11 PM

Subject: RE: 8x8 acoustic pict samples



Hello Mike,


We have your samples ready for pickup anytime


Thank you,

Aaron



On Feb 24, 2011, at 8:36 AM, "SBT - Brighton" wrote:


Hello Mike,


These are beautiful images, I will call you once I have the samples printed


Because the ink typically does not clog the holes on either material, I believe the smaller mesh will work better for your application


Talk to you soon.


Thank you,

Aaron
 
#65 ·
I picked up the local Acoustic transparent printed image samples, pinned them to the side wall panels, and did some visual comparisons.

(those are my upper corner bass traps done as well, the mounting brackets are being painted/drying now.)


The fine weave is on top, the blocky weave is on bottom:





Fine Weave:



Blocky weave:



Screen light reflection test, 5 sec exposure-side shot



Onlook shot


My visual observations:The fine weave is too flat and does not hold the color pigments as well as the blocky weave.

The block weave appears to be glossy to semi-glossy, the image does show decent, better in person than the picture shows.


Both passed the breath test, Aaron (the local shop manager) told me after printing they pealed the fabric off its backing, and it does appear the majority of the holes before/after is same.

Based on my observation, blockage by this process is a non-issue.


My image for frequency testing is using REW:

-driving thru the Ext In and bypass any in A/V processing of signal

-put one of my main speakers in front/center of room for equal distance from walls (reduce the SBIR as much as possible)

-take near field test with microphone centered on tweeter,

-then with cloth between at 0 degrees, then 15/30/45 degree.

-Repeat centered on midrange.

-Repeat for other sample.

-Compare freq plots.


I'll make a simple test stand out of PVC pipe to hold the samples and easy consistent rotate 15 deg increments.
 
#66 ·
What fabric was used for both? I agree, I like the looser weave better.


I have a basic question...if these panels prevent reflections (or minimize them), how does a bi/dipole speaker do its job? I thought the purpose was to have the sound reflected all over the place to simulate real life....that is how it gets its dispersion.
 
#67 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by mtbdudex /forum/post/20065722


Good news/bad news.


Good news:

Got the ECOUSTIMAC eco line stuff, non itchy, Friday 3pm delivered.


Bad news:

Its not truly 2' x 4'.

Both OC703 and OC705 are EXACTLY 24" x 48", I've got my triangle templates cut to make those.


I was about to use those on the ECOUSTIMAC eco line stuff, and something just did not line up.

So, like the old addage measure twice, cut once, I measured them they are....23 1/8" x 47 1/8". All 6 panels measure that.

Sounds small but when you've designed your templates AND your bass trap to a full 24" x 48" adjusting at the last minute is a PIA!

I'll post picts later.

From their website, http://www.acoustimac.com/index.php/...oinsul422.html , they state (and I'm quoting here):



Now, I'm making templates for those "reduced size" 23 1/8" x 47 1/8".

My fact based data from this past weekend, pictures!

Sorry for rant here, I will email and contact acoustimac directly on this.


The 6 panels taken out of box:



All measured consistent 23 1/8" wide .........................................47 1/8" tall



Having to adjust my cutting tempaltes for slightly different size

(I have a large one I also used not shown here)



Their panels were slightly less than 2" thick also, like 1" and a "fat" 7/8", when stacked gave a different height than using OC705 would.

Here is where I designed these for OC705, already cut the threaded rod, and this was with the OC705 (if used) compressed.

Luckily I had enough material to make 2 more 24x24x34 triangles and added a 13th piece to each to take this gap up.



Note:

The shipping box for the OC703 and OC703 was 13" in depth (outside cardboard dim) from atsacoustics - and they were stuffed tightly in it, the ECOUSTIMAC eco line box was 12.5" deep (outside cardboard dim).


Shipping weight, each 6 panels 2" thick 2' x 4':

From UPS label:

OC703 = 26 lbs

OC705 = 51 lbs

ECOUSTIMAC eco line = 29.2 lbs


I'm hoping the acoustic absorbtion properties of the ECOUSTIMAC eco line are truly what they advertise, I "trust" them, but how to verify?

I don't have that ability.....

I'm feeling slight buyers remorse here guys, I like being "GREEN" and the non-itchy usage, but these little things sorta take the winds slightly outta my "GREEN" sails.


[update]

This issue is closed, see post #76 details http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...1#post20087341
 
#68 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by cybrsage /forum/post/20080011


What fabric was used for both? I agree, I like the looser weave better.


I have a basic question...if these panels prevent reflections (or minimize them), how does a bi/dipole speaker do its job? I thought the purpose was to have the sound reflected all over the place to simulate real life....that is how it gets its dispersion.

I don't know the exact fabric spec (yet), I;ve asked that in email to Aaron.

Plus, I should have use correct printer profiles for my image export.

portion of my email:
Quote:
Q’s:

1: Is there a printer driver for the HP 9000 series Designjet and this material I should have used that would give “better” colors?

My monitor is color calibrated with a Spyder3, yet these appear overall darker than what I exported.

Also, need the print profile for the blocky material used to ensure best quality output, I assume there is one just like for different papers there are.


2: For the blocky material have you told customers to add some specific post processing in Photoshop CS5 (sharpening/definition/bring up levels on highlights/etc) for a crisp and detailed output?


After searching HP website: Which specific model HP Designjet do you have? The 9000s or the 9000sf?

I should have downloaded the printer driver prior to exporting the files, I just used a generic sRGB profile, that may be the issue with the darkness I feel the images have.

I printed same images to Costco via their print driver and it matched exactly to my monitor.

(fwiw, I have a Mac and use OSX 10.6.6 and Photoshop CS5.)
http://h20000.www2.hp.com/bizsupport...riesId=1153506

On the dipole speaker Q (for front mains), do a search in the master acoustic thread, I've seen that in there multiple times.


I'm not treating the rear/side surround speaker reflections at all, nor sure if I will ......I've seen some people use diffusers for those....I've not studied that far yet....still researching....
 
#69 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by mtbdudex /forum/post/20080501



I'm hoping the acoustic absorbtion properties of the ECOUSTIMAC eco line are truly what they advertise, I "trust" them, but how to verify?

Really? They already misled you on the dimensions. If it were me I'd be wondering what else they "fudged".
 
#70 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by pfp /forum/post/20082520


Really? They already misled you on the dimensions. If it were me I'd be wondering what else they "fudged".

I think we should let them give their side of the story before we start accusing them of misleading anybody. Maybe they cut them that size so the finished product is 2x4 with the wood surround? Maybe it was just a simple mistake?
 
#71 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by pfp /forum/post/20082520


Really? They already misled you on the dimensions. If it were me I'd be wondering what else they "fudged".
Quote:
Originally Posted by Taxi /forum/post/20083060


I think we should let them give their side of the story before we start accusing them of misleading anybody. Maybe they cut them that size so the finished product is 2x4 with the wood surround? Maybe it was just a simple mistake?

I sent them email about 10 minute ago, that is start of dialog and mutual understanding.

Hopefully they give me fact based and logical response.


However, simple mistake, no way!

It is so easy to have a template and Quality Control measures to do this job.

I've audited OE auto suppliers who do this "cotton shoddy" work day in and day out with much closer tolerance control.


All I'm asking for is what I bought, 24" x 48", so design can be done before material arrives. It's not "lumber", where a 2 x 4 is really 1 1/2" x 3 1/2".

They'd get crucified in the HVAC business if some person designed ductwork exactly (24" x 48") and @ the jobsite their material arrived and was 23 1/8" x 47 1/8".


IF their end product is 23 1/8" x 47 1/8" nominal, with 1/8" variation, they should advertise as such, and we could know that upfront and design for it.

That's not asking too much I feel in this day and age of 6 sigma QC/etc.


[update]

This issue is closed, see post #76 details http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showt...1#post20087341
 
#72 ·
Part II Upper bass traps


Starting from here:
Quote:
Originally Posted by mtbdudex /forum/post/20042496


Plan out the cuts to maximize material usage....I had an image on how to do this and just sketched it out like this.

Each sheet I used as fully as possible.



Using newly made templates for the 23 1/8" x 47 1/8" sheets I have, start cutting and stacking, cut in reverse order, ie, the big one first and smallest last.

This is big template........................Smallest template showing placement



This cotton product is much harder to cut thru than OC703/705, so I bring out the turkey knife. Still cuts came out not nicely, determined my blades were dull and sharpened them
, much better after sharp blades.




2 traps cut and stacked! I will use those "extra" pieces shown, part of my material usage plan.



I was not 100% satisfied with how the lower corner bass traps edges looked, so decided to tryout using drywall edging. I picked the white paper covered ones to minimize any issue with shiny reflection being seen thru the fabric. If need be, I would have painted them green, but that was not needed.



I used fishing line to secure the the bottom side and screws the top side.
 
#73 ·
Part III Upper bass traps


1 done with material stacking, added loose pieces with sticky spray, worked great.



Putting on the Kraft paper to block mid-hi frequencies:



1st one wrapped and done!

Those drywall edges made all the difference, I'm going to add those as lesson learned to lower bass trap post. Much crisper look.





Installing into the HT room.

I used a 30+ year old hydraulic bottle jack as 3rd hand...



Both installed




Detail LH side....................................RH side



That completes the Rear wall broadband bass treatments.


side note:

I've used that exact same red hydraulic bottle jack back in the late 1970's when I had my 1969 Ford Torino with 390FE engine with 427 med-riser race parts, I was a car jock back then & re-built my engine 3 times...blew up 2 engines before 18 years old.

It was good to help lift up stuff (trans/whatever) to align during engine "re-entry" back into the car.

This is 1979, I'm the guy with blue coveralls on leaning on the engine cherry picker.

Yes, I had a 2 x 4 "Dual Quad" set-up as well in my 11th grade high school, can we say 400+ REAL horsepower and leaded gasoline.
 
#74 ·
Wow, those traps greatly exceeded my expectations. You have skill bringing your ideas to reality. Clean lines and more shelf space! I like the halves more than a full trap now. The downside to a full trap is it makes the back of the room seem smaller, but this give the illusion it's still open.
 
#76 ·

Quote:
Originally Posted by mtbdudex /forum/post/20083369


All I'm asking for is what I bought, 24" x 48", so design can be done before material arrives. It's not "lumber", where a 2 x 4 is really 1 1/2" x 3 1/2".

They'd get crucified in the HVAC business if some person designed ductwork exactly (24" x 48") and @ the jobsite their material arrived and was 23 1/8" x 47 1/8".


IF their end product is 23 1/8" x 47 1/8" nominal, with 1/8" variation, they should advertise as such, and we could know that upfront and design for it.

That's not asking too much I feel in this day and age of 6 sigma QC/etc.

I got a phone call directly from Sal, he also sent this email:
Quote:
From: ACOUSTIMAC

Date: March 2, 2011 2:50:02 PM EST

To: Mike and Michelle R

Subject: Re: ISSUE with size NOT 24" x 48" Re: Acoustimac - Acoustic Panels and Bass Traps: Order # update

By the way those are some monster bass traps!! They look cool!!!!

Sal

On Wed, Mar 2, 2011 at 2:49 PM, ACOUSTIMAC wrote:

Hi Michael,


I am sorry to hear that the insulation you received was short. Please give me a call at your convenience and I will either send you replacement or work out something else with you. I hope to hear back from you.


Thank you for your business and sorry about the inconvenience.


Sal

They have 2 different size, the one I was shipped 23 1/8 x 47 1/8 is for their pre-made frames so the outside dimension to customer is 24" x 48".

I was wrongly shipped those, they do have full 24" x 48" stock as well.


Sal offered for me to ship back my stuff for free exchange (too late, already done), or some other $$ (partial refund or good discount on next buy).


I have to assess my future needs and decide which route I'll go, I'm ok with their response and he truly wants to keep the customer happy and admitted it as their mistake.


Case closed.
 
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