Magnavox 557, 537, 535, 533, 515, 513, 2160A, 2160, 2080 & Philips 3576, 3575 - Page 321 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #9601 of 27986 Old 06-05-2010, 05:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wajo View Post

Great!

Now, a BIGGER experiment...

Delete some or all analog channels, then see what you can find in the digital tuner that might be freed of "analog interference"?

Not sure how best to find, but maybe those another device like TV finds already? Either that or a digital AON again?

Well, it was worth a try, wajo. But, no go. I deleted all analog channels except the Weather Channel and a complete digital AON yielded nada.

I got a card in the mail from Comcast on Thursday saying that in addition to being authorized an STB and 2 DTAs, current "Standard" subscribers (the old extended basic tier) could upgrade to the digital starter tier without any additional charge.

When I went to pick up the equipment on Friday, they only had one DTA on hand, so I wound up with 2 STBs, the Moto DCT2224s. Last evening I hooked up one STB to the 3575 via E1 composite. There's no S-video out on the STB. I also connected the STB to the Slingbox via RF (the latter has two IR blasters), so I can now access both units from my PC or laptop in order to remotely manage recordings.

It's not ideal, but better than having only the locals for the 3575 - after the QAMs went scrambled last week.
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post #9602 of 27986 Old 06-05-2010, 05:33 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stump69 View Post

When I went to pick up the equipment on Friday, they only had one DTA on hand, so I wound up with 2 STBs, the Moto DCT2224s.

Just in case you missed it, here's Scott_111's note on setting the 2224 for changing channels at a set time (ignore "VCR instructions").
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post #9603 of 27986 Old 06-05-2010, 08:36 PM - Thread Starter
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HOW DVD BURNER OPERATES, USING AS A PLAYER

Jump To:
How Our DVD Burner Operates
Using This DVDR as a DVD Player

How Our DVD Burner Operates

The laser diode (LD) that burns our discs is a packaged semiconductor with heat sink, like the one pictured below. Pics are from this Wiki article.
Packaged Laser Diode
LD Chip on Head of Needle

The heat sink is probably the most-critical part of the design since heat is the No. 1 enemy of the LD, and its focusing lens.

To help understand how our DVD burner operates, here's some info from a Maxim article that helps explain our DVD write (DVD-WR) and read (DVD-RD) operating times. Your accumulated burner DVD-WR and DVD-RD times can be viewed thru the SKIP 321 menu.

The article includes two interesting charts reproduced here: Fig. 1 showing LD Power Levels and Fig. 2 showing a Typical LD Pulse Profile. (Note: "Rewriting Pulse" and "Recording Pulse" in Fig. 2 are identifying the lines only, not a power level.

Fig. 1 - LD Power Levels


Fig. 2 - Typical LD Pulse Profile


Our DVDR LD's are "pulsed" to produce the recorded data marks (pits) in concentric tracks around a DVD. Tracking is aided by grooves in the polycarbonate layer facing the burn media. [Dual-layer (DL) discs have two grooved polycarbonate layers.]

Instead of maintaining the highest Record power level during recording, it pulses between recording and "bias" power repeatedly in a "multi-pulse train" throughout the mark-creation process.

It's important to note that bias power is both the Standby (just-plugged-in) AND DVD-RD power level. It's the power level the machine maintains on the laser while the machine is "off" so it's ready to read from the get-go. As soon as a disc is loaded, the machine starts counting that as DVD-RD time.

That explains why our Skip 321 procedure shows both DVD-WR and DVD-RD times when recording or dubbing to a DVD, where we might expect there to be only DVD-WR time... the laser pulses between rec and bias power throughout the burning process. Also, DVD "Write Strategies," which are stored on most blank discs, call for very short "cooling" pulses, which reduce LD power to the bias level, further adding to the DVD-RD stats.

Go back to list.... Go to main list of help files.

Using This DVDR as a DVD Player

Heat is the worst enemy of the laser diode (LD) and plastic focusing lens in our DVD burners and the LD or lens are almost always the first things to go. That's why heat-sink design is a big deal in DVD drive design.

Many people advise not using this DVDR for DVD playback cuz it makes the LD "wear out" faster. They often recommend a separate player and note how long their players have lasted.

That's a testament to how little wear-and-tear playback causes. A player or recorder's LD uses bias (standby) power when the machine's just ON, when a disc is loaded, and when a disc is being read for playback... same power level for all!

So, basically, our DVDRs use the same no-heat, "just-plugged-in" bias/standby power to read discs, with LD power of ~3-5mW, so they're exactly like players in that respect. It's only when we perform writing ops... burn/erase/format... that the machine kicks the power up to a higher LD power level of ~30-50mW for RTR or an est. 150-200mW for HSD. So, our DVDR LDs could wear out faster, but then...

THE DVD DRIVE IN THIS DVDR IS NOT THE SAME AS THE WUSSY DRIVE IN A PLAYER, where the most stressful thing is reading thru a finger print. A DVDR drive has to be a more "robust" design overall to handle the more stressful burning ops.

In other words, you can certainly use a separate player for playing DVDs if you already have one, can afford to buy one, or have space for one, but for normal family timeshifting and archiving, you can enjoy this DVDR as both a recorder AND a player without undo concern.

Since our DVDR burners use the same STANDBY/OFF (bias power) level as a player for reading a disc, the more likely failure will be of the drive/sled motors. But, even then, no worse odds than of a dedicated player for same number of open/close/load ops.

The real bottom line: PLAYING DVDs generates about as much heat as a piss-ant doing pushups on a marshmallow! Also, DVD drive replacement in our PhilMag DVDRs is a relatively simple DIY job and less than $70 for the burner, as described here.

Go back to list.... Go to main list of help files.


Last edited by 7558037; 01-11-2015 at 07:24 AM.
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post #9604 of 27986 Old 06-05-2010, 10:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wajo View Post

Are you talking about a cable signal, not OTA, and thru the tuner or line input rather than the coax passthru, and on programs you know are sending 5.1? Lots of caveats to consider.

I just confirmed that an OTA signal can carry DD5.1 if the program has it, and the 2160's coax passthru should just pass that raw signal thru.

In fact, here's a thread on OTA stations that carry DD5.1.

I'm always cable, never OTA. The only indicator I have for 5.1 is my JVC receiver which has Linear PCM, DD, DTS, and a whole bunch more. The H2160 sends its component video to my TV and the coax to the receiver. No RCA cable on the H2160, no RF out used either. If I tune, with the H2160, to the HD CBS station, the coax output of the H2160 does not make the JVC think 5.1 is present. If I use a Sony HD DVR or a Panasonic EZ28 or my Sony 32XBR9 TV, their optical output always make the JVC indicate 5.1 when tuned to CBS HD, and goes to linear PCM when tuned to any SD channel (and only analog on analog channels). I don't know what makes 5.1 work or why the receiver lights up with 5.1 when I play a DVD on the H2160 that has DD 5.1 on its cover. But it does. I have no other way to test this, sorry. I guess we'll have to leave it with the status that my cable signal and the H2160 tuner are not good friends.

Just to clarify: coax above means S/PDIF and RF means F-type. I guess my use of coax might be confusing, but cable, to the best of my knowledge, is normally RG-59 or RG-6. OTA does not have to be coax, but these days it usually ends up that way through a balun somewhere from the antenna (balanced) to F-type coax (unbalanced).
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post #9605 of 27986 Old 06-05-2010, 10:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wajo View Post

Just in case you missed it, here's Scott_111's note on setting the 2224 for changing channels at a set time (ignore "VCR instructions").

Did I miss something, or did Scott actually say those instructions did NOT work with his 2224, and that he had to get a DCH3200 before he could set a cable box to cooperate with preset recordings?
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post #9606 of 27986 Old 06-06-2010, 12:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wajo View Post

Some random thoughts on the Polaroid, its odd RF inputs and passthru, its sole tuning of ANALOG PBS 22, and its position in the daisy-chain:

FEEDBACK?
ANALOG INTERFERENCE?
?

Nope, on the Polaroid you can choose to do an analog OR digital channel scan, depending on which input you've connected the RF cable. I've not run an analog channel scan on this machine. In this case, it is still picking up DIGITAL PBS on 22.1 and 22.2 from the raw cable, though none of my other tuners can find it.

I'm not complaining though.
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post #9607 of 27986 Old 06-06-2010, 01:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gastrof View Post

Did I miss something, or did Scott actually say those instructions did NOT work with his 2224, and that he had to get a DCH3200 before he could set a cable box to cooperate with preset recordings?

You are correct; Scott did say that he had to upgrade in order to get a programmable STB. I went through all the menu options today, and the DCT2224 only has a 'reminder' function that is useless unless you're actually watching another channel at the time and don't want to miss the beginning of another program.
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post #9608 of 27986 Old 06-06-2010, 07:15 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stump69 View Post

Nope, on the Polaroid you can choose to do an analog OR digital channel scan, depending on which input you've connected the RF cable. I've not run an analog channel scan on this machine. In this case, it is still picking up DIGITAL PBS on 22.1 and 22.2 from the raw cable, though none of my other tuners can find it.

I'm not complaining though.

My random thought ref. to a possible influence on the upstream recorders, not the Polo itself... and having no analog channels in button-memory doesn't mean it's not receiving an analog signal and "trying" to do something with it... like feed it back to where it came!
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post #9609 of 27986 Old 06-06-2010, 07:16 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gastrof View Post

Did I miss something, or did Scott actually say those instructions did NOT work with his 2224, and that he had to get a DCH3200 before he could set a cable box to cooperate with preset recordings?

Yup, have to change the help file.
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post #9610 of 27986 Old 06-06-2010, 07:37 AM
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Just a quick update ... Going from one recording on 2160 to new 2160 Hdd is great for sequential editing. I like to grab selections from a show and the usual disc edit was a bit laborious since it required that I watch the show, then do multiple edits or even title splits and then dub to DVD. This way , I can watch the recorded show at the same time I'm dubbing selections I want to save from the recording. I think it'll be a timesaver. only did a few last night but I'm liking the workflow. now I have to go back and swap in an s- video cable, which may boost the quality a bit.

Quote:
Originally Posted by wajo
Progressive OFF on the sending Mag.

Receiving Mag OFF only if you're using S-Vid or Comp. to the TV for viewing the result.




One final note -- this still works with the receiving 2160 using component video out to tv and progressive enabled. The source 2160 has to have progressive OFF even if you are not using any output on the machine. The progressive setting being flipped on is enough to keep it from sending out the video signal by svideo or composite output. (At least that's how it seems to be working here)
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post #9611 of 27986 Old 06-06-2010, 09:05 AM
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Regarding 5.1... I've never heard of a DVD player that did not render 5.1 in the digital audio outputs. So the presence of 5.1 when playing a DVD is to be expected.

To receive OTA, the tuner must decode the Transport Stream TS which contains HD and 5.1

Unfortunately, DVD recorders only record the video SD and the audio stereo version of that signal.

To make matters worse, from the days of VHS, surround sound has never been recordable - only what is contained in the stereo tracks. ....Except for D-VHS which was specifically designed to record the entire TS.

Of course HD DVR's do this, but they are just black box containers and do not count at actual recorders - where recorder means recording the content on something, some tape, some disc, etc.

5.1 could be recordable because PC DVD copiers allow you to completely compromise the video quality while chosing to maintain the full 5.1

So as it stands, only D-VHS records the 5.1 (and of course, not to mention, the HD too).

If D-VHS can do it, what is the problem with DVD/HDD units doing it too?

I don't get it.
Tom

PS. Of course, the FCC defined IEE1384 Firewire as the digital interface with D-VHS recording capability but somehow the FCC allowed industry to run wild and develop HDMI which locks everyone out. HD won't be here until I see recorders w/HDMI inputs in my book. So I guess HD will never be available in the form that the FCC promised everyone - a promise that allowed them to sell off the SD frequencies... Also remember, that DVD recorders were the first to be able to record HTSC without appreciable loss - but that was when NTSC was basically obsolete and being shut down. So it may be that we'll see HD recorders for current resolutions when the next HD improvement obsoletes all the current gear.
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post #9612 of 27986 Old 06-06-2010, 12:55 PM
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I do hope that this is the appropriate thread for the forthcoming rambling.

Wisemen,

My picture is not quite as sharp as I think it should be. My Comcast cable rep (on the phone) thinks the picture should be sharper than it is. Insights would be appreciated.

Here is the setup

Cable line feeds into the Magnavox 2160 Ant In
Mag's Ant Out feeds to Cable Box Ant In
Mag's HDMI feeds to TV's HDMI port
Cable Box Ant Out feeds to TV Ant In

As a result of this I am able to watch TV without the Mag being turned on. When it is turned on I can watch via its Analog or its Digital, um tuners, or just continue watching as if it is not turned on.

So far so good. Here is what I am experiencing.

A) With the Mag turned on and using its Digital tuner, the reception is outstanding.
B) With the Mag turned on and using its Analog tuner, the reception is so-so.
C) With the Mag turned off, and viewing through the cable box, the reception is so-so.

Here is the conundrum.

A much older TV (Twelve years versus One year) displays a better image than either of the B/C scenarios above. But perhaps unexpectedly and rightly so, the new TV's display in Scenario A is better than the Old TV's display. I'm using the Price is Right as a barometer (Actually, I'm using TPIR model Rachel as a barometer. Grrrr.) To recapitulate -- With MAG on and viewing through its tuner - picture is outstanding; With Mag on and viewing through analog, or with Mag off and viewing through cable tV, the picture is so-so. Yet, on the old TV the picture quality is consistently somewhere between outstanding and so-so

The plot thickens.

I have an Emerson purchased about 8 years ago that is not connected to cable. In fact, I needed to buy one of those Digital Converter box thingys for it. When I watch TPIR on this set, the image is similar to the oldest TV, namely, the picture quality is better than the new TV without the Mag turned to Digital or with it turned on viewing from Analog.

At first I thought that the new TV, being a superior TV, was showing me more, namely more flaws. But the Comcast rep indicated that this is not how things should work. He informed me that my reception should be as good with the new TV as it is with the old TV.

Before I go about rearranging wires, hooking up a new cable box, or calling in a Comcast technician, I thought I'd run this by you learned men.

Is what I am experiencing normal? If not, any leads as to the cause and any possible remedy?

Thanks again for your time, patience and expertise.


Yours
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post #9613 of 27986 Old 06-06-2010, 01:48 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lxloco View Post

Cable line feeds into the Magnavox 2160 Ant In
Mag's Ant Out feeds to Cable Box Ant In
Mag's HDMI feeds to TV's HDMI port
Cable Box Ant Out feeds to TV Ant In

You don't say what type of HDTV and size... makes a big diff.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Lxloco View Post

A) With the Mag turned on and using its Digital tuner, the reception is outstanding.

As it should be.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Lxloco View Post

B) With the Mag turned on and using its Analog tuner, the reception is so-so.

As it usually is, esp. if the HDTV is BIG. They should ban analog channels on a large HDTV!

I also have cable, which is a composite signal, and my HDMI upconversion makes my pic look very slightly worse, so I use digital Composite (AV) cables to my 47" LCD HDTV.

You should also try HDMI > Format > YCbCr as described in this help file.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Lxloco View Post

C) With the Mag turned off, and viewing through the cable box, the reception is so-so.

For max. PQ thru the box, you need a line connection like Component or HDMI for it also.
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post #9614 of 27986 Old 06-06-2010, 01:56 PM
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You should really get a HD cable box and hook the cable boxes HDMI(or component) out directly to your HDTV. I'm guessing your current cable box is only tuning the SD channels while the Maggy is tuning the clear QAM HD channels, that explains why the Maggy looks better.
As to why your older TVs look better with SD, that's a common problem with many HDTVs displaying SD and it has mostly to do with contrast ratio.
If you want to display SD it's best to use a SD set(or a higher quality HDTV) many lower or mid priced HDTVs look fine or even good with HD but not so hot with SD.

Again if you get a HD cable box and tune the HD channels Rachel should look better than ever especially since CBS is about as good as HDTV gets, 1080i and very good bitrate.
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post #9615 of 27986 Old 06-06-2010, 02:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JoeKustra View Post


Just to clarify: coax above means S/PDIF and RF means F-type. I guess my use of coax might be confusing, but cable, to the best of my knowledge, is normally RG-59 or RG-6. OTA does not have to be coax, but these days it usually ends up that way through a balun somewhere from the antenna (balanced) to F-type coax (unbalanced).

You're right! the terminology is confusing. When I said cable coax, I meant RG-59 or RG-6 coaxial cable. The H2160 Digital Coax does not output DD 5.1 when we use its tuner.

My setup is TWC cable RG-6 Coax --> H2160, H2160 RG-6 Coax --> TV, H2160 HDMI --> Receiver, Receiver HDMI --> TV, TV Optical --> Receiver

When I watch TV using the TV tuner, it routes DD 5.1 audio from broadcast HD programs to the receiver through the Optical cable.
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post #9616 of 27986 Old 06-06-2010, 02:03 PM
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just a quick question is this a dup thread of that huge one about the mag 2160..
or is this totally new information.. just amazed at how well researched these players are.. to hats off again... good stuff!
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post #9617 of 27986 Old 06-06-2010, 02:04 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bodhi78 View Post

You're right! the terminology is confusing. When I said cable coax, I meant RG-59 or RG-6 coaxial cable. The H2160 Digital Coax does not output DD 5.1 when we use its tuner.

My setup is TWC cable RG-6 Coax --> H2160, H2160 RG-6 Coax --> TV, H2160 HDMI --> Receiver, Receiver HDMI --> TV, TV Optical --> Receiver

When I watch TV using the TV tuner, it routes DD 5.1 audio from broadcast HD programs to the receiver through the Optical cable.

Have you tried the 2160's dig. coax audio out with HDMI Audio Off?
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post #9618 of 27986 Old 06-06-2010, 02:13 PM
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Hi all,

I am experiencing 2 minor problems with H2160 # 1. Since I am still wi the 90 day warranty, I thought I would see what the experts think about them.

[1] I was watching a movie which I had earlier recorded to my HDD through a DTV cable channel. At one point the picture got very light for about 3-4 seconds, after which it returned to normal. About 15 minutes later the same thing happened. Other than that the pic quality was excellent. I suppose, that could have come from the original broadcast, but I am wondering if it could be from bad HDD sectors. Thoughts?

[2] Ocassionally, when I turn it on, it wants to tune in to either channel 111 analog, or channel 1.1 digital. The last couple times I turned it on & pressed the DTV/TV button, it first tuned to ch 111. When I pressed this button again, it tuned to ch 1.1. It does not seem to be repeatable. When I turn the unit off & then back on [to see if it will repeat], it tunes to the last station [as it should]. [Maybe time dependent?] When I first got the unit, I had this problem a couple times. I reran autoscan and it appeared to work properly for a while. But it is at it again. Thoughts?

Jer
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post #9619 of 27986 Old 06-06-2010, 02:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scuzzo View Post

just a quick question is this a dup thread of that huge one about the mag 2160..

At this stage, with the H2160 being the only available HDD model from Funai for quite some time now, if it were up to me, I'd have at least taken the thread with "Philips" from the stickies and replaced it with the big, dedicated-strictly-to-the-H2160 thread. I mean, when was the Philips 3576H last manufactured and sold new, anyways? It's got to have been almost a couple of years now.
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post #9620 of 27986 Old 06-06-2010, 02:21 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scuzzo View Post

just a quick question is this a dup thread of that huge one about the mag 2160..
or is this totally new information.. just amazed at how well researched these players are.. to hats off again... good stuff!

Not dupes at all and definitely not the same. The vast majority of info is in THIS "huge" Sticky thread. All these models have essentially the same manual and operate virtually the same... they're yearly clones.

There is surprisingly LITTLE in this thread that applies to just one model... what applies to one generally applies to all, which is why there's a single thread to cover multiple, cloned models. Even people with the older models can, and opften do, come here and find everything they need in one thread.

I'm often surprised at people with the older 3575/76 models telling me they're just now finding this thread and wish they had found it sooner, and I'm sure there'll be MANY more who will find it in the future with questions on their "older" models... they're very durable recorders!

Used and refurb'd older models, 3575 and 3576, are still being sold through Amazon, Overstock and others, so some new users may come from there. Essentially, there's no extra "burden" by continuing to talk about those older models since comments apply to all current models too. Most refs to models are in the form of "this DVDR" or "your DVDR."

We've finally gotten to a place that a Google search for Philips 3575, 3576, Mag 2160 and even the new Mag 513 will all see this thread very near the top their list of hits.

Anything discussed in this Sticky thread worthy of note I incorporate in the list of help files, if not already there. That list, page 1 of this thread, has iinks that lead you to virtually all the info on a specific subject. Each subject page also has jump links so you can key in on just one element of that subject as needed... helps people find just a kernel of needed info in a hurry.

Some of the subject matter links back to specific posts by others who have contributed significant info, so people can read summaries, then go on to those other linked posts for ALL the info and details, as desired.

I think MANY people don't even know the pg. 1 list of help files exists. Others say they've read EVERY post, which is OK but prob. unnecessary.

If ever in doubt, go to page 1 for the list of help files.

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post #9621 of 27986 Old 06-06-2010, 02:26 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JER01 View Post

I am experiencing 2 minor problems with H2160 # 1. Since I am still wi the 90 day warranty, I thought I would see what the experts think about them.

[1] I was watching a movie which I had earlier recorded to my HDD through a DTV cable channel. At one point the picture got very light for about 3-4 seconds, after which it returned to normal. About 15 minutes later the same thing happened. Other than that the pic quality was excellent. I suppose, that could have come from the original broadcast, but I am wondering if it could be from bad HDD sectors. Thoughts?

This is usually an artifact of the digital transition, where stations are still learning how to broadcast this stuff. I've had black screen for the 1st 10 min. of a digital show, intermittent black screens, lots of fun stuff.

Quote:
Originally Posted by JER01 View Post

[2] Ocassionally, when I turn it on, it wants to tune in to either channel 111 analog, or channel 1.1 digital. The last couple times I turned it on & pressed the DTV/TV button, it first tuned to ch 111. When I pressed this button again, it tuned to ch 1.1. It does not seem to be repeatable. When I turn the unit off & then back on [to see if it will repeat], it tunes to the last station [as it should]. [Maybe time dependent?] When I first got the unit, I had this problem a couple times. I reran autoscan and it appeared to work properly for a while. But it is at it again. Thoughts?

This unit might need a Soft Reset (2a here)? That's lose your clock and timer rec programs, so write them down or take a pic?
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post #9622 of 27986 Old 06-06-2010, 07:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Lxloco View Post

(Actually, I'm using TPIR model Rachel as a barometer. Grrrr.)

Excellent choice for a reference image! Also a good way to test out the 2160/3575 ZOOM function.

Rachel Reynolds also appears in the Venus Swimwear catalogs.

http://www.venus.com/
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post #9623 of 27986 Old 06-06-2010, 08:55 PM
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Help File notes on saving AutoRecord buffer to HDD.

Quote:


If you want to save a portion or all the buffer to the HDD as a normal title:

1. Press PAUSE, which brings up the AR menu and time-counters and shows where you're at in relation to the total buffer, i.e., gets you "oriented."
2. Press back- and fwd-Play buttons... or enter buffer time directly... to go back to the spot you want as the beginning of the title.
3. Press REC to mark that start point. You can PAUSE to get a "perfect" start point w/o editing, if desired, but getting the exact start and end points is not critical at this point since you will have a chance to do Front- and End-Cuts on the title once on the HDD.
4. If the desired end point is already in the buffer, go fwd to that end point, PAUSE, then press STOP 2X. You should see the "writing to disc" menu. Your program has been saved to the HDD.
5. If the desired end point has NOT been reached yet in the live program,

I've made several attempts at saving only a portion or the AR buffer, and each time ends with all program time after the selected start point being saved. For example...tonight I left the 2160 on analog cable TNT, for the movie Sahara. I left it alone as the movie ended (with an encore airing immediately afterwards). 30 mins went by and I went to save it.

I pressed Pause, which pauses the picture and brings up the AR menu graphics and status bar.

I press OK to go up to the time code and enter 0:00:00 to go to the beginning.
Let it run for a few secs to pass the end credits of the previous movie.

Press pause, then press Rec button to select start time-Red circle with slash appears in the corner, and doesn't allow me to set start time while paused. I have to let it play before the pressing of Rec, with record icon under the Play icon, sets the 'Save AR' start time.

I enter 2:30:00 to get to the end of movie, and press Pause, then Stop twice. When I open Title menu, I see the entire AR buffer is saved again (3 hrs), starting at the selected start point, instead of the 2 1/2hrs I selected.

I've repeated this several times with the same results.
So is this an anomaly, perhaps the FW update changed how saving AR operates, or am I not not groking the help files properly?

It's not really a big deal... anything I might might wish to dub to dvd will be edited anyway, so the overrun will get dumped regardless, as item No3 in the file points out, but I am curious as to whether this is how it's actually supposed to work or not.

Dazed and confused over high tech.

Sigh...Concrap. The Internet Overlord Cometh
They're not com-tastic!
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post #9624 of 27986 Old 06-06-2010, 09:42 PM
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Westly-C...

I have done everything you describe... and have had the same results...


Spoiler!
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post #9625 of 27986 Old 06-06-2010, 09:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bodhi78 View Post

You're right! the terminology is confusing. When I said cable coax, I meant RG-59 or RG-6 coaxial cable. The H2160 Digital Coax does not output DD 5.1 when we use its tuner.

My setup is TWC cable RG-6 Coax --> H2160, H2160 RG-6 Coax --> TV, H2160 HDMI --> Receiver, Receiver HDMI --> TV, TV Optical --> Receiver

When I watch TV using the TV tuner, it routes DD 5.1 audio from broadcast HD programs to the receiver through the Optical cable.

I think we are both on the same page. The 2160, when you select setup on the remote, does not display "audio". There's a clue. As a product, I stress to others that it's my favorite for someone who wants the best bang for their buck and doesn't want or need a Tivo-type unit. Your TV acts like my TV also. In the future I'll try to use the terms "RF" for cable/OTA signals and "coax audio" for the S/PDIF connection. Live & learn. I prefer the coax audio, but haven't found an ABC switch like I have for the optical signals feeding my old JVC 5.1 receiver.
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post #9626 of 27986 Old 06-06-2010, 10:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 6volt View Post

Regarding 5.1... I've never heard of a DVD player that did not render 5.1 in the digital audio outputs. So the presence of 5.1 when playing a DVD is to be expected.

So as it stands, only D-VHS records the 5.1 (and of course, not to mention, the HD too).

If D-VHS can do it, what is the problem with DVD/HDD units doing it too?

I don't get it.
Tom

I'm with you Tom, but we won't win. I have Mitsubishi and JVC D-VHS recorders. But nothing that can use them in their digital mode. And what ever happened to DAT?

But my Sony DVR records HD 5.1 perfectly. Too perfectly. So it's an anomaly that I love. Only 30 hours with 250gb. Calculate the bit rate needed for that. I don't care since I get what I pay for. Plus it's a lot of fun. The 2160 is really a good product or you wouldn't see 1000+ user reviews on Walmart. The 2160 is going to be around for a long while, like the Sony.
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post #9627 of 27986 Old 06-06-2010, 11:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wajo View Post

Have you tried the 2160's dig. coax audio out with HDMI Audio Off?

I think I did, but it was a long while ago since I set it up, though, so I could be wrong there That would be the ideal setup for someone with an older receiver. When I have a chance, I will try this to see if the H2160 Digital Audio coax passes DD 5.1 from DVD movies and from its tuner.
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post #9628 of 27986 Old 06-06-2010, 11:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JoeKustra View Post

I think we are both on the same page. The 2160, when you select setup on the remote, does not display "audio". There's a clue. As a product, I stress to others that it's my favorite for someone who wants the best bang for their buck and doesn't want or need a Tivo-type unit. Your TV acts like my TV also. In the future I'll try to use the terms "RF" for cable/OTA signals and "coax audio" for the S/PDIF connection. Live & learn. I prefer the coax audio, but haven't found an ABC switch like I have for the optical signals feeding my old JVC 5.1 receiver.

Joe - perhaps this is what you are looking for: $20 component switcher. It has a remote control and can be used to switch digital audio coax.

http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...=2#description

Here is a Q&A from Knowledge Base tab:

"Question: Can I use it as an audio only switcher? Will it work if the component connectors are not ultilized.
Answer: Yes, it will still work if you choose to use it only to switch analog 2 channel audio or S/PDIF Digital Coaxial audio and not have anything connected to the component video connectors."
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post #9629 of 27986 Old 06-07-2010, 05:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bodhi78 View Post

Joe - perhaps this is what you are looking for: $20 component switcher. It has a remote control and can be used to switch digital audio coax.

http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...=2#description

Here is a Q&A from Knowledge Base tab:

"Question: Can I use it as an audio only switcher? Will it work if the component connectors are not ultilized.
Answer: Yes, it will still work if you choose to use it only to switch analog 2 channel audio or S/PDIF Digital Coaxial audio and not have anything connected to the component video connectors."

Thanks for the pointer. I buy from them all the time. Right now I use a "T" or "Y" connector to have both the coax audio from my Sony S360 BR and the 2160 feed the single audio coax input of my receiver. Only time it gets messed up is when listening to a CD on the BR and the 2160 starts to record. That kills the BR audio. It's a minor issue, cured by fighting gravity and pulling out the 2160 cable. I have to fight that nasty gravity also when using the ABC switch for my TOSLINK audio inputs.

I have a Sony A/V receiver (STR2400ES) that I tried for a while. I just didn't like it. So it's back in the box until my attitude changes.
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post #9630 of 27986 Old 06-07-2010, 05:38 AM
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Originally Posted by jjeff View Post

You should really get a HD cable box and hook the cable boxes HDMI(or component) out directly to your HDTV. I'm guessing your current cable box is only tuning the SD channels while the Maggy is tuning the clear QAM HD channels, that explains why the Maggy looks better.
As to why your older TVs look better with SD, that's a common problem with many HDTVs displaying SD and it has mostly to do with contrast ratio.
If you want to display SD it's best to use a SD set(or a higher quality HDTV) many lower or mid priced HDTVs look fine or even good with HD but not so hot with SD.

Again if you get a HD cable box and tune the HD channels Rachel should look better than ever especially since CBS is about as good as HDTV gets, 1080i and very good bitrate.

In my years of experience on the transmitter and RF side of broadcast engineering, I've come to know a number of very good TV video technicians/engineers, in broadcasting, manufacturing and the repair/service sectors. A majority have intimated that CRT technology is superior to LCD/Plasma/Etc., especially in providing detail, and most importantly, depth. Of course, this assumes the CRT TV is aligned perfectly as to convergence, focus, etc.

This would be an interesting topic for another thread, but I just thought I'd mention this given previous posters who are disappointed in their new LCD flat panel when viewing SD, and sometimes even HD.
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