Magnavox 557, 537, 535, 533, 515, 513, 2160A, 2160, 2080 & Philips 3576, 3575 - Page 397 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #11881 of 27986 Old 11-13-2010, 03:13 PM
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Yep, those are nice cables and I think the ferrite cores should actually do some good. I have about 3 of those and 3 of another type without the cores I found cheap on E-bay and all of them seem to work OK with my gear, but I still think the core ones are a bit better,
Certainly better then paying 20 to 50 for some over priced monster cables or others that don't work any better.
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post #11882 of 27986 Old 11-13-2010, 03:41 PM
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I just bought a refurb Mag 2160 from J&R (thanks to great advice from this board) and am learning it as I can. I bought it to record off of my U-Verse HDD as I am going to have to swap my box out and don't want to lose what I've recorded.

I hooked up the 2160 using SVHS cable from the cable box and audio cables and then would play what I wanted to record off my uverse and record in the mode that I want to. I've recorded 4 dvd's so far 1 hr 2 hr and 3 hr modes. Over all am pretty impresed even when I play them back through the ps3 and my 52"samsung upstairs.

Last night I went to record a new DVD to continue getting things off my UVerse box and I recieved an E45 message. Came out to this forum and searched and found it has to do with recording copy protected material.

It seems to work on some shows and not on others for example Food TV Good Eats won't record but Battle 360 from the Military History Channel will record fine.

There are channels on U-Verse that do not allow recording even to the U-Verse HDD but these are shows I've already recorded and jsut want to move to a disc. I have not gotton into recording on the HDD of the 2160 yet but can I at least record the shows over to the HDD even If I can't burn them to a DVD?

How is this different than recording to a VHS tape (not that I want to go that route) its for personal use.

Ok this is pretty technical for me and I'm at the beginning end of the learning curve and I haven't read the whole manual yet but need to swap the box soon and want to get all I can off of the UVerse HDD asap.

Is there a work around for this or have I somehow affected a setting on the 2160.

Also when using the DVD it seems tricky to get into setup mode to finalize a disc it seems like I have to open/close the drive door and press setup right away and wait for the disc to load before those options become available. If the disc loads first pressing setup dosent work.

I love the versatility of the machine and know I have much to learn. Any help getting through these issues would be greatly appreciated.
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post #11883 of 27986 Old 11-13-2010, 04:20 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by charliebeagledog View Post
Is there a work around for this or have I somehow affected a setting on the 2160.
You should always record/copy to the HDD cuz many copy protected (CP) things allow copying to a HDD but not to a DVD. I ALWAYS copy/record to HDD 1st, no matter what.

Once on the HDD, you can try a DVD and, if it starts but stops dubbing to a DVD, it could even be CP in the commercials (believe it or not), and it could be just SOME commercials. Some people have deleted the commercials and had success in dubbing to DVD.

If it just refuses to dub to DVD w/o commercials, then it probably has "hard" CP that would require a "video filter" between the DVR and the 2160. (Google that term?)

Since you're in a hurry to offload from the DVR, just copy as much as possible direct to the HDD and worry about what to do with it later?

DVD options like Finalize don't become available (active) until a disc loads fully (~20 ec or so). Some DVD ops not possible until,you select the DVD drive. I try to insert a disc 1st thing to let it load while I'm getting other stuff done or ready.
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post #11884 of 27986 Old 11-13-2010, 05:25 PM
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I've seen three video filters out there discussed here but want to make sure I choose the one that will best preserve picture quality.

Sima CT-2 around but a little hard to find
copiall DPX-700
and one called "Video Filter"

I am not super technically minded and since it appears I have to buy any of these online would like to make sure I purchase the correct one. Any insights on the differences and or the better choices among these. (this may be better asked in the general DVR forum but I thought I'd ask it here since I started here as it relates to the 2160

It is awesome that there is a forum with this much expertise out there. Thanks for sharing the info and helping me in my learning curve
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post #11885 of 27986 Old 11-13-2010, 05:43 PM - Thread Starter
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Lots of people like Sima, if you can find one. Often someone gives links to threads on that subject here in AVS. An AVS Search for "Sima" should find something cuz there's lots of comparison threads. Best to discuss it there anyway.
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post #11886 of 27986 Old 11-13-2010, 05:43 PM
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I've heard nothing but good things about the "Video Filter". I personally have a CT-2 and while I really like it, it does slightly raise the black level. I've read similar black level problems with the DPX-7000.
Note, none of these devices will convert component to S-video which you might want if you're recording from a cable co STB or DVR. A component to S-video also has the advantage of removing any CP.
Check out this thread for such converters.
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post #11887 of 27986 Old 11-13-2010, 06:09 PM
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I was going to go in and delete my last post because as soon as I posted I found several threads discussiong the difference in the filters. The Video Filter seems to be a favorite in the threads I've read so far.

JJeff so if i have you right if I get one of the component to svhs converters then I don't need the filter? The video filter gives me the choice of either svhs or component. The cable box has svhs and componet and so does the 2160 so I think that will work fine.

What would the advantage of going with a component to svideo and how much is that going to set me back? (I was pushing it to get the 2160...this all started in a thread about buying a used panasonic dvr on craigslist lol)
thks

edit I see one recent cable out there for 3.64 on ebay a svhs to video cable..like someone asked but wasnt answered...could it be that simple?
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post #11888 of 27986 Old 11-13-2010, 09:26 PM - Thread Starter
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If anyone with cable TV is still having any problems with tuning all the DTV channels their HDTV does w/o a cable box, and you just want to elminate the analogs as a possible culprit, there's an easy way to do it that requires no analysis or manual probing.

I just added this to the "analog interference" discussion (here):

"A Simpler Way To Check for Analog Interference?

Do an Auto Channel Preset > Cable (Analog/Digital) WITH COAX OFF THRU ALL THE ANALOG CHANNELS, 1-125. Re-connect the coax ONLY AFTER you see DTV channel 3 or 4. Let the scan go thru all 135 DTV channels. If it freezes on any DTV channel, try again and remove the coax thru that DTV channel also. You might want to use a push-on coax for this scan for quicker on and off moves.

Don't worry too much about how many DTV channels you miss since you can always do a Manual Channel Preset later if you know or suspect there might be DTV channels in the very low range (your HDTV can clue you in on this).

You can even add analog channels later with Manual Channel Preset if your cableco sends a lot of those you like (mine does), but you can now do it "selectively" and maybe just skip a known duplicate of a DTV channel, like the major networks... DTV channels are so much better anyway.

With ONLY DTV channels in CH+/- memory, there should be no interference from analog channels, but there still might be interference from duplicate DTV channels as described above. At least you'll eliminate analogs as the prime suspect, esp. in Comcast systems where I think they know all the tricks on "viewer enhancement interference.""

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post #11889 of 27986 Old 11-14-2010, 05:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wajo View Post


[...]
With ONLY DTV channels in CH+/- memory, there should be no interference from analog channels, but there still might be interference from duplicate DTV channels as described above. At least you'll eliminate analogs as the prime suspect, esp. in Comcast systems where I think they know all the tricks on "viewer enhancement interference.""


Every wonder if this interference might be related to PSIP data? I have 50+ analog channels and 100+ clear QAM channels (and a lot of scrambled stuff everywhere), yet have never see any interference. Nor have I ever found a digital channel that I can use for a clock set. On my TV I can tune ch 27 and get snow. On 27.1 I get a good digital channel. Same with the 2160, but I need to push the button. If someone has a valid NTSC ch 27 and a valid QAM 27.1, that's a problem. Some station is mapping their ch ??.? to 27.1 and that's a bad thing. This is just me thinking out loud.
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post #11890 of 27986 Old 11-14-2010, 06:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by charliebeagledog View Post

I was going to go in and delete my last post because as soon as I posted I found several threads discussiong the difference in the filters. The Video Filter seems to be a favorite in the threads I've read so far.

JJeff so if i have you right if I get one of the component to svhs converters then I don't need the filter? The video filter gives me the choice of either svhs or component. The cable box has svhs and componet and so does the 2160 so I think that will work fine.

What would the advantage of going with a component to svideo and how much is that going to set me back? (I was pushing it to get the 2160...this all started in a thread about buying a used panasonic dvr on craigslist lol)
thks

edit I see one recent cable out there for 3.64 on ebay a svhs to video cable..like someone asked but wasnt answered...could it be that simple?

First you have to be careful about using the correct terms, component and composite. Composite is the single yellow video cable that is the lowest quality connection(480i). S-video is also 480i but provides slightly better picture. Component(very good quality) can be 480 up to 1080 but your DVDR doesn't have component inputs.
Many cable company STBs don't output wide screen over anything less than component. If your box is this type I'd suggest a component-to-S-video converter. It will not only take the wide screen component and convert it to wide screen S-video but it will also remove any CP that might be on your signal. If your STB outputs WS over S-video then I'd get something like the "video filter" which will take a S-video output, strip the CP and output it as S-video.
Component-to-S-video converters are around the same price as S-video filters but I've seen that cheaper ones can adversely effect the picture quality. Not only black level but also resolution. I tried the Monoprice converter(made by Ambery) but returned it because it wasn't up the the quality of even my Sima.
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post #11891 of 27986 Old 11-14-2010, 02:12 PM
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Re charliebeagledog's dilemma,

I agree that recording to the HDD first then dubbing to dvd is best, as suggested, but for copy protection issues that are hard to locate, another little thing that sometimes helps is recording to an eraseable -RW or +RW disc. It's a little more costly per disc, but they can be less temperamental when trying to copy a copy. Recording to maggie HDD is your best bet.
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post #11892 of 27986 Old 11-14-2010, 08:29 PM
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Thanks, once again! I tabled the project for college football night. I'll check Monoprice, and also look for the bi-directional splitter there because I can't find one around here (stuck in Oklahoma). I think Radio Shack has some, I've read bad reviews about them and I already have a low opinion of their stuff. Do you have any recommendations about specific HDMI'S and/or splitters? I feel like a dunce, can't even set the darn thing up. I'm a female lawyer who can call a face mask and off sides but can't use my new DVDR.
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post #11893 of 27986 Old 11-15-2010, 07:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by needy View Post

Thanks, once again! I tabled the project for college football night. I'll check Monoprice, and also look for the bi-directional splitter there because I can't find one around here (stuck in Oklahoma). I think Radio Shack has some, I've read bad reviews about them and I already have a low opinion of their stuff. Do you have any recommendations about specific HDMI'S and/or splitters? I feel like a dunce, can't even set the darn thing up. I'm a female lawyer who can call a face mask and off sides but can't use my new DVDR.

While Radio Shack may not have the highest quality control (ok, none), their 1 to 4 splitter is bi-directional and I have three in service at the moment. One feeds my 2160A. It does amplify, but digital stuff doesn't care so much. As for reviews, you can pick and choose. You wouldn't be here if you only read and believed the bad reviews. Either would I.

As for Monoprice, their prices are hard to beat. But always get there from the link at the top of every page since they might be tracking where their customers come from.
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post #11894 of 27986 Old 11-15-2010, 03:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by charliebeagledog View Post

...edit I see one recent cable out there for 3.64 on ebay a svhs to video cable..like someone asked but wasnt answered...could it be that simple?

If I understand what you're saying, the type of cables you're talking about are commonly called "S-Video" cables, not "SVHS".
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post #11895 of 27986 Old 11-15-2010, 07:34 PM
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Thanks for the additional advice. I don't see a bi-directional splitter @ Monoprice so the Shack may be my only option. I'll pull the yellow pages out and call around when I have time but there aren't many choices around here. I'll also keep searching online. I'd prefer to place a single order for the splitter and HDMI cables. I'm ASSuming HDMI will work better for me than the other options since I find myself so challenged by this. I was hoping to record a program I have on my cable DVR onto DVD for my mom for Christmas. Didn't expect it to be so difficult. If it helps with the advice you awesome folks are giving me, I have Cox cable, I don't have the HD DVR box yet, I want to record what I have on this box before turning it in to get the HD DVR box. I recently bought a Sony Bravia KDL 32BX300 that I'm trying to hook the MRD513H up with. "Un-up-loading" recordings from my current DVR box onto the DVDR before I get the HD box was what prompted me to get this DVDR plus having the ability to record DVDs. It shouldn't be this difficult, I don't know what I'm not understanding other than not having the right connectors.
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post #11896 of 27986 Old 11-15-2010, 08:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by needy View Post

Thanks for the additional advice. I don't see a bi-directional splitter @ Monoprice so the Shack may be my only option. I'll pull the yellow pages out and call around when I have time but there aren't many choices around here. I'll also keep searching online. I'd prefer to place a single order for the splitter and HDMI cables. I'm ASSuming HDMI will work better for me than the other options since I find myself so challenged by this. I was hoping to record a program I have on my cable DVR onto DVD for my mom for Christmas. Didn't expect it to be so difficult. If it helps with the advice you awesome folks are giving me, I have Cox cable, I don't have the HD DVR box yet, I want to record what I have on this box before turning it in to get the HD DVR box. I recently bought a Sony Bravia KDL 32BX300 that I'm trying to hook the MRD513H up with. "Un-up-loading" recordings from my current DVR box onto the DVDR before I get the HD box was what prompted me to get this DVDR plus having the ability to record DVDs. It shouldn't be this difficult, I don't know what I'm not understanding other than not having the right connectors.

Before buying a A/V receiver, my 2160A was hooked to my 32EX700 via HDMI. I figure you are using the TV speakers, so 5.1 audio is not on your priority list. But the picture from your 513 should look great. Set the 513 HDMI output to 1080p and let the Sony show it as 720p. Or play with it and see if it makes any difference. On my Sony every input has its own settings. That's part of the work. The cables with the ferrite lumps: they reduce radiated interference. They cost more and the extra cost may get you a better cable/picture. It is (to me) not logical to change a (noisy) digital signal to a smoother signal with less interference and get better quality. But, please understand, I don't know everything and don't pretend to know everything. With the ferrite core you may get side enhancements to compensate for the noise reduction. Don't know. I use them. Can I tell? No. Anyhow, have fun. We're here.
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post #11897 of 27986 Old 11-16-2010, 07:56 AM
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Hey, fellow posters, I got 2 questions that for some reason I can seem to focus on a way to solve them.

1) I am coping some movies I have on my Dish 722k to my 3576 HDD, but I can't seem to figure out how to set the timer on the 3576's so I can have it turn off after the copying is done.
Basically, I want to set the timer very close to the actual running time of the movie I'm copying so I can transfer movies at night while I'm asleep, and not have to worry about the 3576's HDD still copying nothing for hours on end. (I have read through Wajo's timer instructions, but still can't seem to set the timer correctly.)

2) I just got a Samsung BD C6500 player. Is there a way I can connect the C6500 to my 3576 so I can copy some regular DVDs or movies from NetFlix that are streamed through the C6500? I'm not looking to copy BD, I know that's a no go in the US. I just want to copy some DVDs that only I will be interested in, like The Clancy Brothers Live...

Thanks in advance!
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post #11898 of 27986 Old 11-16-2010, 10:11 AM
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Originally Posted by Ghpr13 View Post

2) I just got a Samsung BD C6500 player. Is there a way I can connect the C6500 to my 3576 so I can copy some regular DVDs or movies from NetFlix that are streamed through the C6500? I'm not looking to copy BD, I know that's a no go in the US. I just want to copy some DVDs that only I will be interested in, like The Clancy Brothers Live...

Thanks in advance!
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Netflix's streaming is copy-protected.
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post #11899 of 27986 Old 11-16-2010, 11:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by needy View Post

Thanks for the additional advice. I don't see a bi-directional splitter @ Monoprice so the Shack may be my only option. I'll pull the yellow pages out and call around when I have time but there aren't many choices around here.

The GE Ultra Pro splitters found in the electrical department at Home Depot will work. They also have HDMI cables in the same section.
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post #11900 of 27986 Old 11-16-2010, 02:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Ghpr13 View Post

...1) I am coping some movies I have on my Dish 722k to my 3576 HDD, but I can't seem to figure out how to set the timer on the 3576's so I can have it turn off after the copying is done.
Basically, I want to set the timer very close to the actual running time of the movie I'm copying so I can transfer movies at night while I'm asleep, and not have to worry about the 3576's HDD still copying nothing for hours on end. (I have read through Wajo's timer instructions, but still can't seem to set the timer correctly.)

I have been in situations where I just can't figure out 'How-the-Heck' to do something. Then, one day, a lightbulb turns ON and I look back and can't see 'What-the-Heck' was so difficult about that!?!

Possibly if you explain the STEPS you're taking, someone can help you through it. I just re-read Wajo's Timer Instructions, so, I'm sorry but my mind is in "'What-the-Heck' was so difficult about that!?!" mode.

Briefly, I would set a ONE TIME Timer:
  • INPUT: The input where the source is connected.
  • LENGTH = ~5 minutes longer than the total necessary.
  • START TIME = ~5 minutes from the current time.
Then turn the DVDR OFF. When the DVDR starts up (from the TIMER), I'd press PLAY on the source.

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post #11901 of 27986 Old 11-16-2010, 03:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Ghpr13 View Post
Hey, fellow posters, I got 2 questions that for some reason I can seem to focus on a way to solve them.

1) I am coping some movies I have on my Dish 722k to my 3576 HDD, but I can't seem to figure out how to set the timer on the 3576's so I can have it turn off after the copying is done.
On the 513 I press the record button on the remote to get the recording started, then each additional press of the record button sets the recording time in 30 minute increments. Perhaps your 3576 works the same way.
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post #11902 of 27986 Old 11-16-2010, 04:12 PM
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Originally Posted by JimLely View Post
Netflix's streaming is copy-protected.
Quote:
Originally Posted by ClearToLand View Post
I have been in situations where I just can't figure out 'How-the-Heck' to do something. Then, one day, a lightbulb turns ON and I look back and can't see 'What-the-Heck' was so difficult about that!?!

Possibly if you explain the STEPS you're taking, someone can help you through it. I just re-read Wajo's Timer Instructions, so, I'm sorry but my mind is in "'What-the-Heck' was so difficult about that!?!" mode.

Briefly, I would set a ONE TIME Timer:
  • INPUT: The input where the source is connected.
  • LENGTH = ~5 minutes longer than the total necessary.
  • START TIME = ~5 minutes from the current time.
Then turn the DVDR OFF. When the DVDR starts up (from the TIMER), I'd press PLAY on the source.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ken.F View Post
On the 513 I press the record button on the remote to get the recording started, then each additional press of the record button sets the recording time in 30 minute increments. Perhaps your 3576 works the same way.
JimLely, ClearToLand, & Ken.F,
I want to thank all 3 of you for your replies. And to ClearToLand, you're correct. I can't figure out why I didn't comprehend those steps. It must the the Mad Cow disease effecting my thinking...anyway, thanks again!
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post #11903 of 27986 Old 11-16-2010, 04:32 PM
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Quick question for you guys who know more than me

I'm looking into getting a DVR or DVDR for my mother in law. She was still recording to VHS until this week when she got a digital tv. Personally I use a HTPC to do all my DVR needs but that is way too complicated and overkill for what she needs.

So, she gave me a budget of $200 and I've read the information in this thread as much as I could.

I was about to pull the trigger on a refurbished 2160A but it has since been bought by someone else. So now I'm between a refurbished 2080 and a new 513. The question is, what are the differences and how likely is a 45 year old woman to use the added features?

I think the main differences are a bigger HD in the 513, "better" remote, HDMI out, digital clock set, and auto-buffering, DV input, digital CC.

She would not need closed captioning, she can hear just fine My understanding of these devices is that they record in SD not HD, so for someone without a AVR, the HDMI out is not needed. She's used to setting recording times with a VCR, so I doubt she'd need the auto-buffering. She only records one week of one soap opera and watches all the episodes on the weekend so I don't think the bigger HD would come into play. I have no idea what digital clock set is...I'm guessing that it is the way that DVRs can automatically set their clock to a signal being sent out by a station. Not sure what DV input is but the only input she would need on this is an antenna/cable input. She gets OTA tv only.

So, should I really have her spend the extra money on a 513 or should a 2080 be good enough. I can get the 2080 for $130+$19 shipping and I can get the 513 for $215+$0 two day shipping (Amazon Prime). I would throw in $25 for her to keep the 513 below the $200 budget but it still factors into the overall cost comparison.
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post #11904 of 27986 Old 11-16-2010, 05:06 PM - Thread Starter
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So, should I really have her spend the extra money on a 513 or should a 2080 be good enough. I can get the 2080 for $130+$19 shipping and I can get the 513 for $215+$0 two day shipping (Amazon Prime). I would throw in $25 for her to keep the 513 below the $200 budget but it still factors into the overall cost comparison.
I think the 2080 would be fine for her very simple needs.

The only thing she may not like is the cheap remote with small buttons... might frustrate her? However, the remote for the 513 operates it and it's larger... buttons still not ideal size or layout, but it can be purchased separately.

Here's a note in the help files on getting the 513 remote if needed (after you get the recorder):
Remote NB820UD, Tel. 1-800-242-7158, $17.99 on 9/29/10. Have DVDR Model# (on back) & Serial# (on bottom) ready. Tell them you DON'T want the OEM remote for your 2080, you want the NB820UD remote for the 2160, 2160A and MDR513H instead. Might have to tell them you know this remote works cuz many people are using them.

The best remote is the one for the new MDR515, NC003UD, but I haven't been able to locate it yet separately. There's a description of it here.

A list of help files on these units is here.
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post #11905 of 27986 Old 11-16-2010, 05:27 PM
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Originally Posted by hockeyrcks9901 View Post
Quick question for you guys who know more than me

I'm looking into getting a DVR or DVDR for my mother in law. She was still recording to VHS until this week when she got a digital tv. Personally I use a HTPC to do all my DVR needs but that is way too complicated and overkill for what she needs.

So, she gave me a budget of $200 and I've read the information in this thread as much as I could.

I was about to pull the trigger on a refurbished 2160A but it has since been bought by someone else. So now I'm between a refurbished 2080 and a new 513. The question is, what are the differences and how likely is a 45 year old woman to use the added features?

I think the main differences are a bigger HD in the 513, "better" remote, HDMI out, digital clock set, and auto-buffering, DV input, digital CC...

So, should I really have her spend the extra money on a 513 or should a 2080 be good enough. I can get the 2080 for $130+$19 shipping and I can get the 513 for $215+$0 two day shipping (Amazon Prime). I would throw in $25 for her to keep the 513 below the $200 budget but it still factors into the overall cost comparison.
I own one 2080, one 2160A and three 2160 models. I hope to purchase one or two 515 models in the near future.

The 2080 dates back to 2007. It comes with a dreadful remote and a 80GB hard drive. I updated my 2080 to a 160GB hard drive and a 2160 remote back in 2009. The big question with a 2080 is "who did the refurbishing?" If it was refurbished by Funai Service in Groveport Ohio it might be OK and it will come with a Funai warranty. If the 2080 was refurbished by a third party (other than Funai) that might be bad news and there might not be a warranty. If you buy a 2080 be prepared to purchase a 2160/2160A/513/515 remote, about $18 through Funai. See the photo for a comparison.

The 513 is a 2010 model. It comes with a good remote and a 320GB hard drive. The bugs with the 2009 2160A model have been corrected. Thankfully the default setting is now Auto Clock Off. Using the Auto Clock ON setting is the source of many problems with these recorders. (All of my Magnavox, Philips and Panasonic recorders have the Auto Clock set to OFF and I set the clocks manually.)

There might be complications when dealing with some unknown seller advertising through Amazon.

My advice is to buy a Magnavox 513 or 515 from the original seller, walmart.com, where it may be returned to any Walmart store if there's a problem.
LL

"A ROSE BY ANY OTHER NAME WILL SMELL AS SWEET. BUT IT DOES NOT FOLLOW THAT WHATEVER WE CHOOSE TO CALL A ROSE WILL POSSESS THE ROSE'S FRAGRANCE."

--Benjamin Breckinridge Warfield (1917)
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post #11906 of 27986 Old 11-16-2010, 05:39 PM
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I've had my 3575 for years, and I consider it a very reliable recorder. But today it had a strange recording bug. I had left it set to record a 1 hr program to the HDD, but when I arrived home it was on but not recording. Checking the timer menu, I saw the current timer entry hilighted in red. The DVD tray was empty. When I switched to HDD using the remote, it belatedly began recording immediately. Huh? It's like it couldn't start because it was trying to record to DVD. But the timer entry said to record to HDD - in fact it's a weekly entry which has worked in past weeks. I've never had any problem with that before, regardless of the presence or absence of DVD in the tray or which source I watched last, HDD or DVD.

Has anyone seen this bug before? Any idea what happened?
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post #11907 of 27986 Old 11-16-2010, 06:35 PM
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Thanks for the additional advice. I don't see a bi-directional splitter @ Monoprice so the Shack may be my only option.
Needy - The PCT Genesis II RF splitters are very high quality, and are available through multiple sources online. The PCT-NGNII-2S is their 2-way splitter and is bi-directional. This splitter works very well in my system. I bought mine through http://www.3starinc.com/cable_tv_spl..._passives.html Price was less than $2 for each 2-way splitter.

PCT is a very large supplier to the commercial cable industry, and their products are very good.
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post #11908 of 27986 Old 11-16-2010, 06:51 PM
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Originally Posted by hockeyrcks9901 View Post

Quick question for you guys who know more than me

I'm looking into getting a DVR or DVDR for my mother in law. She was still recording to VHS until this week when she got a digital tv. Personally I use a HTPC to do all my DVR needs but that is way too complicated and overkill for what she needs.

So, she gave me a budget of $200 and I've read the information in this thread as much as I could.

I was about to pull the trigger on a refurbished 2160A but it has since been bought by someone else. So now I'm between a refurbished 2080 and a new 513. The question is, what are the differences and how likely is a 45 year old woman to use the added features?

I think the main differences are a bigger HD in the 513, "better" remote, HDMI out, digital clock set, and auto-buffering, DV input, digital CC.

She would not need closed captioning, she can hear just fine My understanding of these devices is that they record in SD not HD, so for someone without a AVR, the HDMI out is not needed. She's used to setting recording times with a VCR, so I doubt she'd need the auto-buffering. She only records one week of one soap opera and watches all the episodes on the weekend so I don't think the bigger HD would come into play. I have no idea what digital clock set is...I'm guessing that it is the way that DVRs can automatically set their clock to a signal being sent out by a station. Not sure what DV input is but the only input she would need on this is an antenna/cable input. She gets OTA tv only.

So, should I really have her spend the extra money on a 513 or should a 2080 be good enough. I can get the 2080 for $130+$19 shipping and I can get the 513 for $215+$0 two day shipping (Amazon Prime). I would throw in $25 for her to keep the 513 below the $200 budget but it still factors into the overall cost comparison.

You stated she got a digital TV. That should not affect the VCR. Did you mean her OTA signals went digital? Most new sets have a 'favorites' button. No need to mess with the input button since the HDMI port can be a favorite. You may even be able to label it as "Magnavox".

Don't worry about the clock set. These units keep good time on manual.

DV input is from a camera or camcorder connector on the front. Not an issue.

Most cost effective answer is the 513 since you get a better remote and a better unit. Plus there is the age of the components.

Strong suggestion: don't do anything for two weeks. Expect significant price changes soon. You may get the 513 for under $200. We have this holiday coming up where things tend to drop in price. Or they did last year. Who knows? (sure)

BTW, a 6' high quality HDMI cable from Monoprice is under $5 with shipping.
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post #11909 of 27986 Old 11-16-2010, 08:08 PM
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Originally Posted by JoeKustra View Post

You stated she got a digital TV. That should not affect the VCR. Did you mean her OTA signals went digital? Most new sets have a 'favorites' button. No need to mess with the input button since the HDMI port can be a favorite. You may even be able to label it as "Magnavox".

Don't worry about the clock set. These units keep good time on manual.

DV input is from a camera or camcorder connector on the front. Not an issue.

Most cost effective answer is the 513 since you get a better remote and a better unit. Plus there is the age of the components.

Strong suggestion: don't do anything for two weeks. Expect significant price changes soon. You may get the 513 for under $200. We have this holiday coming up where things tend to drop in price. Or they did last year. Who knows? (sure)

BTW, a 6' high quality HDMI cable from Monoprice is under $5 with shipping.

Sorry, should have worded it a little better. She wants to get rid of the converter box now that her tv is capable of receiving a digital signal. And since these units have digital passthrough on the coax lines, she can use the tuner in the tv. Which brought me to the point that without an AVR, she has no true need for an HDMI cord...
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post #11910 of 27986 Old 11-16-2010, 11:03 PM
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Hi,

Probably made dozens recordings in the couple of weeks I've had the unit, but had a strange experience last week with OTA (roof antenna) DTV programming in NYC area.

A FOX program was set to record on 5.1. I was watching in another room through a standalone converter box.

I happened to turn on the analog TV connected to the 513 about 20 minutes in and video was blank - but analog CC was displaying (not sure about voice since the audio was off and I too quickly deleted the partial recording). I stopped the recording, flipped the channels, and 5.1 then came in OK on the Magnavox.

Can recordings start before the tuner locks-in, and never let it get there?

Thanks.

PS I'll also ask this in the NYC DTV area since it may not be related, but do you NYC area Magnavox folks record off 5.1 or 5.2 / 9.1 or 9.2 ?

I noticed the 513 sets up the OTA channels in increasing numerical order except 5.2 before 5.1 which may make sort of sense as two sister stations mix and match their signals here and the physical channel for 5.2 may precede that for 5.1. (Only online source I could find was Wikipedia, listing the 5.1 as 720p/16:9 on Ch.44 and 5.2 as 480i/4:3 on Ch.38)
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