Magnavox 557, 537, 535, 533, 515, 513, 2160A, 2160, 2080 & Philips 3576, 3575 - Page 551 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #16501 of 27999 Old 10-27-2011, 12:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrmazda View Post

Can someone else with multiple Funais and a late production (supports DVD+RW) Pioneer try some mix & match DVD+RW read, write & erase tests such as I've reported here and suggested by the sticky? Maybe my V515 has a unique problem, but maybe the 515 firmware WRT DVD+RW is defective.

My V513 and 515 can read and write DVD+RWs just fine. The 515 can play and edit +RWs recorded in the V513. Sorry, I don't have any other +RW recorders.
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post #16502 of 27999 Old 10-27-2011, 12:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wajo View Post

In all my tests on this, I never had any +RW discs, so my help file assumed something that might not be true.

I thought I had read you have at least one Pioneer. If this is the case, I'm surprised you've never had DVD+RW unless that's because yours predate Pioneer support for DVD+RW discs.

My use case for +RW, besides being able to skip the finalization step, is dubbing of multiple titles from Funai to Pioneer. Dub list is not available on my Pioneer 460 for DVD-RW to HD, but is for DVD+RW to HD. Using +RW means I can set a whole disc of 30+ plus titles to dub to Pioneer right before bed, and they'll all be done in the AM. From -RW, each has to be dubbed via OTC separately, quite a bit less efficient since I have to baby-sit to get them all done.

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post #16503 of 27999 Old 10-27-2011, 03:21 PM - Thread Starter
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I updated the "Operating One Unit in A Multi-Unit System" help file:

Quote:
|Update: I've recently found the "perfect" barrier everyone has readily available: a greeting card! It's already scored so it folds nicely over the front panel (FP) window.

I cut the card down and made it longer so it now covers from the left edge of the lift-up cover all the way OVER the clock to make sure no stray IR gets to the sensor.

This was AFTER we deleted some unwatched titles on both my 3575's cuz there was a small gap in the wrong place... my wife CFO's fault!

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post #16504 of 27999 Old 10-27-2011, 03:44 PM
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With my V2160A set to "Auto Clock OFF" and the power disconnected for 55 minutes, I lost the clock
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post #16505 of 27999 Old 10-27-2011, 04:10 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JimLely View Post

With my V2160A set to "Auto Clock OFF" and the power disconnected for 55 minutes, I lost the clock

Pretty close to the hour they claim, but that might be a hdwe addition they made in the 515?

If someone with a V2160A or V513 loses clock in 5-10 min., then it IS prob a hdwe thing in the 515.
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post #16506 of 27999 Old 10-27-2011, 05:24 PM
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I did the V2160A update. I am happy to have my weekly programs labeled, and will be glad for the skip recording feature this holiday season. Thanks to the daring souls who went first.
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post #16507 of 27999 Old 10-27-2011, 05:26 PM - Thread Starter
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Congrats. We're up to about a dozen V machines now... that we know of!
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post #16508 of 27999 Old 10-27-2011, 05:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TalkingRat View Post

I am happy to have my weekly programs labeled, and will be glad for the skip recording feature this holiday season.

If you burn a lot of discs and have several timer recordings set you'll really appreciate the skip feature. It lets you quickly disable an upcoming timer recording so you can dub and finalize DVDs whenever you want. Don't forget to turn off skip when you are finished.
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post #16509 of 27999 Old 10-27-2011, 05:31 PM
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My MDR515H is JUST out of warranty and the HDD is making noises. Sounds like bearing problem and playback display is getting fuzzy.
1) Can I replace hard drive or must I send to Funai?
2) Is there a way to connect an external hard drive instead?
3) Any other suggestions?
Thanks.
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post #16510 of 27999 Old 10-27-2011, 05:35 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by racer_ron View Post

My MDR515H is JUST out of warranty and the HDD is making noises. Sounds like bearing problem and playback display is getting fuzzy.
1) Can I replace hard drive or must I send to Funai?
2) Is there a way to connect an external hard drive instead?
3) Any other suggestions?
Thanks.

You can replace the internal drive or set up a dock-and-play system (or single-drive enclosure).

All you need to know to get started is in this help file.
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post #16511 of 27999 Old 10-27-2011, 05:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by racer_ron View Post

My MDR515H is JUST out of warranty and the HDD is making noises. Sounds like bearing problem and playback display is getting fuzzy.
1) Can I replace hard drive or must I send to Funai?
2) Is there a way to connect an external hard drive instead?
3) Any other suggestions?
Thanks.

Is the HDD nearly full? If so it might help if you off-load some titles to DVDs.
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post #16512 of 27999 Old 10-27-2011, 06:15 PM
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I'm writing for both myself and a friend of mine, although mostly for my friend. She has the 515 and I still have the older 2160A. Both of us have encountered the glitch with these machines such that after a power outage for some time the machine just doesn't want to start up again, but is frozen. This is quite scarey when you're new to the machine and unfamiliar with this. I've read through Wajo's wonderful user guide and now know that you have to pull the plug and wait a while until the power backup is drained.

My friend, with the 515, seems to have more power outages during storms than I do, so she's run into this problem a couple of times. After reading Wajo's guide, I was able to advise her that she needed to pull the plug on her model and leave it unplugged for up to two hours or more. She's done that, once or twice leaving it unplugged all night. But she reported that once she replugged the machine she had problems getting it going again. It didn't seem to instantly start up. She would just keep hitting various buttons on the remote with no results until eventually it started up. She was uncertain on what to do to get it going again. I ran into this same problem once, and I remember I also had the same problem with my 2160A not wanting to play nice and start up right away. Nor do I remember what I did that got it going again. Again, this stuff can be scarey because you're worried your machine has been toasted.

So I'm writing for advice on exactly just what to do in these instances to get the machine up and running again. Thanks in advance.
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post #16513 of 27999 Old 10-27-2011, 06:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ken.F View Post

If you burn a lot of discs and have several timer recordings set you'll really appreciate the skip feature. It lets you quickly disable an upcoming timer recording so you can dub and finalize DVDs whenever you want. Don't forget to turn off skip when you are finished.

Hi Ken. The skip recording feature turns itself off. Did I misunderstand your post?
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post #16514 of 27999 Old 10-27-2011, 06:20 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SwamJim View Post

I'm writing for both myself and a friend of mine, although mostly for my friend. She has the 515 and I still have the older 2160A. Both of us have encountered the glitch with these machines such that after a power outage for some time the machine just doesn't want to start up again, but is frozen. This is quite scarey when you're new to the machine and unfamiliar with this. I've read through Wajo's wonderful user guide and now know that you have to pull the plug and wait a while until the power backup is drained.

My friend, with the 515, seems to have more power outages during storms than I do, so she's run into this problem a couple of times. After reading Wajo's guide, I was able to advise her that she needed to pull the plug on her model and leave it unplugged for up to two hours or more. She's done that, once or twice leaving it unplugged all night. But she reported that once she replugged the machine she had problems getting it going again. It didn't seem to instantly start up. She would just keep hitting various buttons on the remote with no results until eventually it started up. She was uncertain on what to do to get it going again. I ran into this same problem once, and I remember I also had the same problem with my 2160A not wanting to play nice and start up right away. Nor do I remember what I did that got it going again. Again, this stuff can be scarey because you're worried your machine has been toasted.

So I'm writing for advice on exactly just what to do in these instances to get the machine up and running again. Thanks in advance.

You're/she's forgetting one important step: hold the power button in on the front of the unit while replugging until you see P-On in the front panel display. This is a Soft Reset, as described here.

You only need to leave your 2160A unplugged for ~10 minutes or so.

I'd recommend a Uninterruptible power supply (UPS). Walmart carries a $45 APC UPS (battery backup) one that should work for a couple of pieces of equipment and keep the units in Standby mode for a few hours so they don't lose settings.

Here's an online page of APC UPS units
with one only $34 (looks like the 200W one at Walmart that I paid $45 or more for recently). The higher watts, the longer it'll last for the low power draw of units in Standby mode (non-operating).
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post #16515 of 27999 Old 10-27-2011, 06:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JimLely View Post

With my V2160A set to "Auto Clock OFF" and the power disconnected for 55 minutes, I lost the clock

O.K., I tried power off for 5 minutes and lost the clock and the programming; so it seems that there was a hardware change on the 515. Regardless, the 'V' is a great breakthrough and I'm very appreciative of the brave souls who discovered this.
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post #16516 of 27999 Old 10-27-2011, 06:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SwamJim View Post

I'm writing for advice on exactly just what to do in these instances to get the machine up and running again.

Prevention easier than cure, though it takes money. I live in the lightning capital of the world, where power outages are more common than anywhere else in the industrialized world. Use a UPS, which provides superior surge protection in addition to minimizing down and reprogramming time. I have 8 of them, and equipment that I probably could never replace or repair if surge damaged. I only run into your problem when the power stays off longer than the UPS batteries support.

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post #16517 of 27999 Old 10-27-2011, 06:32 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JimLely View Post

O.K., I tried power off for 5 minutes and lost the clock and the programming; so it seems that there was a hardware change on the 515. Regardless, the 'V' is a great breakthrough and I'm very appreciative of the brave souls who discovered this.

Great info, thanks! Now we know for sure.
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post #16518 of 27999 Old 10-27-2011, 06:51 PM
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I performed the V2160A firmware update on my 2160A with 500GB harddrive upgrade. I am so glad I can now label my programs before they are recorded. This is awesome!
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wajo View Post

You're/she's forgetting one important step: hold the power button in on the front of the unit while replugging until you see P-On in the front panel display. This is a Soft Reset,

Thanks Wajo and Mrmazda for your help! I now remember the Soft Reset, but I think I was confused about it at the first time I read it, something just didn't connect.

But now I'm confused again about something else:
I have a setup with 7 Audio-Video components hooked up, with the usual spaghetti of chords, to a power strip behind my setup and media stand, And although not as complicated as my setup, my friend has her equipment also hooked to a power strip behind her setup. So how am I supposed to hold down the power button on the front of the machine while simultaneously replugging the machine on the strip in back?
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post #16520 of 27999 Old 10-27-2011, 06:58 PM - Thread Starter
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Uninterruptible Power Supplies (UPS) - Do You Need One?

If you have regular power outages and get annoyed at having to reset your clock and timer programs every time the power goes out, you might want to consider adding a UPS to your system.

Without a UPS, you can still increase your power-backup times by entering a "safe" channel # in the Auto Clock > Manual menu, which can increase your power-backup time from 30-sec to ~2½ min. or 1-hour to ~2½ hours in the 515/53x.

Finding the Right UPS for You

If you'd like to worry less about power and surge, here's an online page of APC-brand UPS units to start your research (change Location to your ZIP). On that page, click on any UPS you like and, on the page it brings up for that unit, click the far-right "Base Price" column to sort by price. Above that column is a "Change" link to select your preferred location for local stores. The $31 "APC Back-UPS ES 350G UPS - 200 Watt - Lead acid" unit at Amazon is the same 200W unit that I recently paid ~$49 for at my Walmart store. #1 UPS on Google Product Search is this 550VA 330W unit, cost ~$50 new from good seller, $60 from my nearby stores, >300 online stores.

Step-Approximated Sine Wave vs Pure Sine Wave

Many UPS selling today output a "flat-topped" sine wave (called Step-approximated) rather than a pure sine wave. As our equipment gets more sophisticated, especially with Energy Star requirements that have Active Power Factor Correction (PFC). Many people, including me, have found that the flat sine wave units run out of power FAST.

If you can afford it, it might be better for you to look for pure sine wave UPS's, like the Cyberpower units linked by this Amazon buyer who experienced fast loss of power by his APC UPS and got some good advice from the APC rep.

Number of Plug-ins

The cheaper the UPS the lower the number of battery backup plug-ins it has. My cheapo ES350 200W UPS has 3 battery backup plugs and 3 surge-only plugs, perfect for the 3 DVDRs I had in my main stack but not enough for the 4 I have now. The next models up, ES 450, 550 and 650, have 4 of each, the 750 has 5 of each, etc.

"Power Factor" - Voltage-Amps (VA) vs. Watts (W)

We only need to know the Watts as long as the UPS has a W/VA ratio of 55-75%. That percentage is the UPS's "Power Factor" (PF), as explained in this tech. article. If you see a PF closer to 1, it's a diff. UPS design and not comparable in runtime, etc. to those discussed here and in this thread.

Deciding on Standby (SB) or Operating (OP) Power

Your first decision: do you want to maintain SB power just to retain settings or OP power to operate your equipment during a power outage.

I don't have many full power outages here, so I opted for a small, 200W UPS. My goal is just to provide surge protection, power leveling thru sags and spikes, and power backup for SB for a SHORT power outage (less than 2 hours), just to retain settings and timer programs. Equally important was the fact that it was available from my local Walmart store... yes, I'm one of those low-class people who loves my local Walmart and doesn't hesitate to "step foot in" it and I wouldn't even mind being "caught dead" in it!

If I'm home when a power outage occurs, I'll turn my DVDRs off so they only draw SB power from the UPS battery. My HDTV is plugged into a surge-only plug-in, not a battery backup, but if it was, I'd unplug it.

If I'm not home and a timer rec starts, then power outage occurs, *no one* knows for sure whether our DVDRs will sense the nanosecond power "blip" at the switchover to battery power and stop the timer rec, or if it'll continue recording. If it continues recording, the UPS will only provide OP power until my 200W battery is used up. If power doesn't come back on before that time, I'll lose my settings, etc.... too bad, so sad.

SOME people with deep pockets get LARGE UPS's cuz they want to be able to OPERATE their DVDRs and TVs while the power is out. One person even has power inverters to keep the UPS's and some household appliances running.

Higher Watts = Higher Cost = Longer Runtime

The higher the wattage the more the UPS costs BUT the longer it will maintain SB or OP power in one of our DVDRs. SB power draw is spec'd at ~5.5-5.7W but measured by users at ~4.5-5W. OP power draw is spec'd at ~33W but measured by Ken.F at ~23-27W.

Unfortunately, it's NOT like measuring your household power, which is in kilowatt hours (kWh), or 1,000 watt-hours used as the billing unit of electric utilities. You can't directly correlate ACTUAL runtime of our equipment with the Wattage of a UPS. My 200W UPS will keep my four units in standby, with ~20W total power usage, for <2 hours. See next subject for better way to come close to the runtime you think you'll need.

Actual Estimated Runtimes

UPS specs often have a chart of estimated hours:minutes of Runtime, which is how long they'll supply power at a specified Power Draw in Watts. However, those charts don't go down to the small wattages we're using. You're best with other user experience to guide you. Below are links to some of that experience, plus important CAUTIONS:

Kansas_Tom (280VA & 685VA for his several UPS/equip. combos).

JoeKustra (details on his many UPS's and inverters).

JoeKustra & gale1965 (more details on his stuff mentioned above).

MrNews (550VA for STB, DVDR, TV).

dare2be (650VA for computer, 3576 , TV).

Dartman (2 ea. 1500VA & 1 ea. 750VA, with runtimes & tips on buying).

CAUTION: jam-h with caution not to plug surge suppressor(s) into UPS.

CAUTION: APC info & warning on non-APC surge protectors (could void warranties)... same as link provided in jam-h post.

CAUTION: jjeff with "grounding" caution if testing runtime.

Keep the Beeps

I learned with my "cheapo" APC UPS NOT to turn it off when it "beeps" during a power outage, I thought I was just turning the beeps off but it turned off SB power to my DVDRs. You have to let some "cheapos' like mine beep during a power outage.... 4 beeps every 30 sec indicates your power is still off and the UPS is providing battery power to the connected devices. There are other beep indications explained in the UPS paperwork. Beeping in some smart UPS's can be modified or turned off in SW or via a button/setting on the UPS, w/o turning off its backup power to the connected units

Placement

It might be important for your UPS to be located where you can easily reach the DVDR plug in case you have to use the Soft Reset procedure. My main UPS sits behind my 47" LCD, which sits on its stand on a small towel on an entertainment-center table. I can easily access the UPS and all its plugs by rotating the LCD on its towel w/o damaging the surface of the table.


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post #16521 of 27999 Old 10-27-2011, 07:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JoeKustra View Post

Hi Ken. The skip recording feature turns itself off. Did I misunderstand your post?

I use the skip feature when I want to finalize a DVD and I have a timer recording coming up that prevents the finalize from starting. I turn on skip for the upcoming timer program, finalize the DVD, then go back and turn off skip so the program records.

And yes, it will turn itself off after it skips that timer one time.
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post #16522 of 27999 Old 10-27-2011, 07:06 PM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SwamJim View Post

Thanks Wajo and Mrmazda for your help! I now remember the Soft Reset, but I think I was confused about it at the first time I read it, something just didn't connect.

But now I'm confused again about something else:
I have a setup with 7 Audio-Video components hooked up, with the usual spaghetti of chords, to a power strip behind my setup and media stand, And although not as complicated as my setup, my friend has her equipment also hooked to a power strip behind her setup. So how am I supposed to hold down the power button on the front of the machine while simultaneously replugging the machine on the strip in back?

This makes a UPS even more valuable!?

Here's a help file on UPS's with more info.

Actually, can't you set the power strip to one end and plug the DVDR in the end plug where you can still reach it? Or bring the power strip up to a place behind one of the components or TV where it's more accessible?

My UPS and all plugs are behind my LCD, which sits on a stand on a cablinet, and to work with power, I just rotate the LCD on the stand to get access. The LCD TV is on a towel/cloth that lets it "slide" on the cabinet as I rotate it.
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post #16523 of 27999 Old 10-27-2011, 07:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SwamJim View Post

So how am I supposed to hold down the power button on the front of the machine while simultaneously replugging the machine on the strip in back?

Considering I have more than 30 devices plugged in behind my entertainment center, I find a requirement like this even more infuriating than power bricks instead of internal device power supplies. Luckily my use of UPS makes the need rather rare.

One solution is to temporarily plug the Funai plug into a spare strip with switch, and plug the strip in where the Funai plug normally fits. The spare should be long enough you can reach its switch at the same time as the Funai switch. My spare has a 10' cord.

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Quote:
Originally Posted by SwamJim View Post

Thanks Wajo and Mrmazda for your help! I now remember the Soft Reset, but I think I was confused about it at the first time I read it, something just didn't connect.

But now I'm confused again about something else:
I have a setup with 7 Audio-Video components hooked up, with the usual spaghetti of chords, to a power strip behind my setup and media stand, And although not as complicated as my setup, my friend has her equipment also hooked to a power strip behind her setup. So how am I supposed to hold down the power button on the front of the machine while simultaneously replugging the machine on the strip in back?

Get creative. Unplug the unit. Get some tape and a pencil. Tape over the power switch then wedge the stick in. The front panel buttons are easy to press even by accident. Then plug in the unit and remove the tape.

I can't tell you how many times I have turned it on with the tray button. I also label all my power cords near the plug. I have three outlet strips all feeding off one UPS.
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post #16525 of 27999 Old 10-27-2011, 08:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrmazda View Post

Prevention easier than cure, though it takes money. I live in the lightning capital of the world, where power outages are more common than anywhere else in the industrialized world. Use a UPS, which provides superior surge protection in addition to minimizing down and reprogramming time. I have 8 of them, and equipment that I probably could never replace or repair if surge damaged. I only run into your problem when the power stays off longer than the UPS batteries support.

I had that problem once (battery die), so I bought a 1.5kw pure sine wave inverter that can charge the UPS. The battery is 70 pounds. I'm good until I run out of gas in my car to charge the battery. It wasn't cheap, but the inverter can run my oil heat or fridge with their high power up surge current.
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post #16526 of 27999 Old 10-27-2011, 08:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JoeKustra View Post

I bought a 1.5kw pure sine wave inverter that can charge the UPS. The battery is 70 pounds. I'm good until I run out of gas in my car to charge the battery. It wasn't cheap, but the inverter can run my oil heat or fridge with their high power up surge current.

How would you rig up something equivalent in a building with 8 UPS with 12-14 batteries among them scattered about multiple rooms, and the cars parked 100 feet from the building?

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post #16527 of 27999 Old 10-27-2011, 09:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrmazda View Post

How would you rig up something equivalent in a building with 8 UPS with 12-14 batteries among them scattered about multiple rooms, and the cars parked 100 feet from the building?

It's only money.
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post #16528 of 27999 Old 10-27-2011, 09:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wajo View Post

Thanks, I added a note.

If it ends up that the Maggies are one of the types of devices that will not accept and load a previous older firmware revision, there still might be a way around that. As sometimes you can get around that problem by "renaming" the firmware file to a even newer revision number than what the device is currently running. The trick is, finding exactly what it is in the firmware file that you need to rename to a higher revision number. If you're lucky, sometimes it's just as simple as renaming the firmware file name itself. Other times you may need to rename the disc ID, when burning a disc the disc that you are going to use to load the firmware.

So basically, until someone tries to reload a older firmware. No one will know for sure if you can just jump back to a previous firmware with no problems at all, or if you would have to manipulate the firmware file by renaming it in some way with a fake newer/higher revision number.
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post #16529 of 27999 Old 10-27-2011, 11:18 PM
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Thanks guys for all your great suggestions! With my setup I can't move the power strips up any closer to my recorder. I couldn't find any furniture that would accommodate my gear as I would have wanted to, so I ended up custom building a stand for all my units just made to accommodate them and there's no way I am going to be able to move the power strip up off the floor. However, I do like Mrmazda's suggestion of a spare power strip going from the power strip on the floor to the shelf my recorder is on - it would fit on the shelf. I had been thinking of just an extension cord to do the same thing, but a power strip with an on/off switch would be a more elegant solution. I just had somewhere heard that it's best to plug all you equipment directly into a power strip and to avoid putting it into a another strip that comes off of the first strip. But I suppose this wouldn't be much of a problem.

I'll have to look at getting a UPS unit for both myself and my friend. I had thought of doing that but have been putting it off as I am not a tech sort of guy and know nothing about all this stuff, plus I'm an old guy on low social security income with not a lot of money. But I'm grateful to Wajo for his help, for I now have something to start from. I'll just have to research just what I will need to accomplish this power backup for the recorder and maybe also protect my other equipment. I just don't want to buy a lot more than I really will need.
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post #16530 of 27999 Old 10-28-2011, 12:37 AM
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Hope everyone is having fun with their new "V" 2160s and 513s...

Spoiler!
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