Magnavox 557, 537, 535, 533, 515, 513, 2160A, 2160, 2080 & Philips 3576, 3575 - Page 553 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #16561 of 27986 Old 10-29-2011, 07:30 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kansas_Tom View Post

My UPS experience ...

I had an APC 280VA-170W unit that would keep a 2160 that was recording running for a little over an hour and several hours in standby.

I have a CyberPower 685VA-390W unit that kept 2-2160's and a 3576 that were recording going for about 30 minutes but would keep them going for hours in standby.

The 280VA has been retired and the 685VA now only has the 3576 on it. I have a new CyberPower 1350VA-810W UPS serving my 3 Maggies but I haven't had a power outage to test this new setup yet.

Thanks for the actual VA/W ratings and runtime stats, both operating and Standby, for our specific equipment,,, it was the 'missing link" in the UPS help file!

Others: Please post YOUR experience so I can link to it in the help file. It'll really help others decide on their UPS needs. Please list or describe:
  1. UPS model & VA/W ratings.
  2. DVDR model(s) and No. of each on that UPS.
  3. Runtimes experienced (both operating and in Standby if available). Op stats can be estimates based on experience, like Kansas_Tom's. It's the "actual experience" that counts!
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post #16562 of 27986 Old 10-29-2011, 08:27 AM
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Have a Magnavox 515 and was having trouble with intermitting stuttering when recording to DVDs, After reading this very informative board,I switched to Sony+RW(made in taiwan) and the trouble went away. Had been using Memorex and Maxwell -RW DVDs. I had checked with Magnavox warranty tecks and they had me doing different things and suggested I might have to send it back. I will call them and tell them of the fix,hoping it will help someone else.
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post #16563 of 27986 Old 10-29-2011, 08:32 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ollieduke View Post

Have a Magnavox 515 and was having trouble with intermitting stuttering when recording to DVDs, After reading this very informative board,I switched to Sony+RW(made in taiwan) and the trouble went away. Had been using Memorex and Maxwell -RW DVDs. I had checked with Magnavox warranty tecks and they had me doing different things and suggested I might have to send it back. I will call them and tell them of the fix,hoping it will help someone else.

Thanks, olliedude, and welcome to the forum!

Your post will make this thread even more informative!

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post #16564 of 27986 Old 10-29-2011, 08:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ollieduke View Post

...I switched to Sony+RW(made in taiwan) and the trouble went away. Had been using Memorex and Maxwell -RW DVDs.

I had a serious problem with some Memorex DVD+R's a few years back and never again buy that brand. Sony's have always served me well, btw I always use +R (or +RW) and never -R. Usually they cost the same and other than a very small difference in capacity seem to be a superior format.. though I am certainly not an expert on the matter.

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post #16565 of 27986 Old 10-29-2011, 09:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JoeKustra View Post

Easy test: get best UPS for your budget on sale, plug a 7w incandescent night light into it then pull the plug. See how long the light stays on. An analog electric clock is expensive but I have two from eBay used to measure the runtime of my UPS or inverters.

Funny, analog electric clocks use to be cheap and the digital ones were more expensive
AFA your test, while I agree it's OK to test the inverter by unplugging it when a 7w night light is your only load, I want to advise anyone doing this test while something like a DVDR is the load. The problem with unplugging the UPS is you lose your bond to earth ground. Not a big deal if your load is only a night light but not so good for something like a DVDR that may have an actual connection to earth ground(RF connector is one source) RCA connectors hooked to another component that has earth ground is another. You can end up with something called ground loops which aren't good for sensitive electronic equipment.
The best way(although not as convenient if other things are on the same circuit) is to turn OFF the breaker(or unscrew the fuse) serving the UPS. This maintains earth ground that would still be available in a actual power outage
I have a 1200VA(not sure of the watts off hand) that I ran the battery wires outside of the case. I also use a full sized marine battery(sealed) that should provide hours of runtime but because of my excellent power I have yet to test it for more than a few minutes at a time. We did have about a half a day outage ~5 years ago which is what prompted me to upsize the battery. I also have a 220v generator capable of powering our whole house(reduced load via a 20a 220v reverse feed socket in the garage) so come a longer outage I'm set. Of course no AC or electric stove during a outage but it will power most lights and electronics Of course when using the reverse feed socket I turn OFF the main breaker to the house, don't want to feed the grid or worse yet blow things up when the power comes back up. Hardest part is trying to figure when the actual power is back up to our neighborhood.
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post #16566 of 27986 Old 10-29-2011, 09:08 AM
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Hi All,
A few questions to help me get my DVD recorder back in business. I accidently bumped the DVD tray sideways while putting in a DVD. Now it is stuck open. I plan to open up the case a try to fix it. Any suggetions or cautions? I've never opened a DVD player before.

Also, does anyone know of a way to expand the storage on this unit? Our hard drive is always almost full, so we need to delete a show to record a show. I started saving things to DVDs, but then the tray broke.

Thanks in advance for your thoughts!
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post #16567 of 27986 Old 10-29-2011, 09:10 AM - Thread Starter
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Tuning & Power Problems - Missing Channels, Timer Records Black/Wrong Channel, Machine Freezes/"Dead"

Jump To:
Sources of Tuning Problems
Specific DVDR Problems & Solutions
The "Map-Your-Own" Solution for OTA & Cable TV
The "Clean-Tuner" Solution for Cable TV
FW Update for Recurring Freezes with 513/515

Old Stuff Archived In Place
Four Manual Channel Preset Procedures for Finding "Hidden" Digital Cable Channels
#1-Comparing to Another Digital-Tunered TV or Recorder
#2-Guided Search
#3-Sydyen Procedure for Comparing to Channels a Cableco DTA Tunes
#4-ALL-OR-NOTHING (AON)

 

NOTE: The 53x Series (533/5/7) may have more "accurate" cable-channel mapping than previous models, as ALP describes here

 

Sources of Tuning Problems

 

ION OTA AirBox channel(s) can cause problems. Delete them to fix. List of channels here.

 

  1. Our hybrid (switched DTV/TV) tuners - Our tuners don't handle co-channel (duplicate-channel) interference as well as typ. HDTV integrated tuners, in which all analog/digital channels are in numerical sequence with no "switch."
     
  2. No error correction in cable-QAM modulation - per Wiki: "Although QAM uses the same 6 MHz bandwidth as ATSC, it carries about twice the data (38.47 Mbp/s @256QAM per 6Mhz channel) due to the lack of error correction; however, this requires a significantly cleaner signal path, such as distribution through hybrid fiber-coax digital cable."
     
  3. Program and System Information Protocol (PSIP) errors and omissions - per WIKI: FCC requires OTA signals to include terrestrial (OTA) virtual channel tables (TVCT) that define each virtual channel and its guide data, but cable virtual channel tables (CVCT) are optional... and we should know by now what "FCC-optional" means to cablecos today!
     
  4. Duplication from "Stealth" Cable Channels - per domino92024: "Your TV may tune an analog channel when 2-99 is selected. But many cable systems have digital only tuners in their STBs, and must simulcast those channels 2-99 in a "stealth" digital stream for reception by those STBs. More than half of the current Scientific Atlanta or Motorola STBs have digital only tuners. For example, Cox uses the SA 8240HDC DVR, which has a digital only receiver (as do many STBs in their employ.) So, they must simulcast their analog 2-99 tier in digital format for these STBs."
     
  5. HDMI or DUST!? - A couple of truly odd causes of channel loss users would NOT normally consider. One user lost a range of digital channels and we narrowed his problem down to the HDMI cable he was using. The channels were in his DVDR but they weren't getting to his TV. Another user lost one channel, then another, etc. and found a layer of dust on his circuit boards. Cleaned off and all channels back to normal.

 


Go back to List. ...... Go to main list of help files.


Specific DVDR Problems & Solutions

 

  1. All DTV Channels Disappear
    If you suddenly see ALL blank screens on DTV channels, it may be temporary, so hold DTV/TV button down to toggle to analog tuner and back to DTV tuner and see if they show up again. If not, look for one of the other problems and solutions below.
     
  2. All-Analog Cable Channel Numbering
    Some cablecos send all their channels on simple analog-like numbers, 1, 2, 3, etc. There is nothing DVDR users can do about this but it can cause some "disorientation" since the analog numbers don't and never will match what this DVDR's "hybrid" analog/digital tuner shows for digital channel numbers (XX.XX). Only that cableco's rented box (of course) and some HDTVs with "integrated" tuners will show those analog numbers. See Vickyg post here, my comment and her final comment following it.
     
  3. Your Cableco Goes All-Digital
    If your cableco has eliminated all ANALOG channels, do a "Clean Tuner" scan for digital channels only, as described below.
     

    On Oct 11 2012,  the FCC gave approval for cablecos that went all-digital to scramble ALL their channels, and Comcast was the first in line for that one... in fact, 4 months early for this user... like the FCC didn't even exist... they must have "winked" when they gave Comcast their latest "update"!?

     

    YOUR Cableco MAY go all-digital, then tell you you need a box, or they may not be able to "afford" the transition costs (e.g., $$$, goodwill, customer retention) so they may just TELL you that you "need a box" anyway... no way to know with them except by TESTING in YOUR home... no need for "helpful advice" from the Axis of Evil here! By the way, their latest spiel is to tell you that a cable-QAM tuner "will soon be useless," so don't even consider one of these... they're afraid it might work well where YOU live, and you might like it!


    DO NOT accept ANY dire warning from a cableco at face value since they LIE all the time! DO NOT jump the gun and pick up one of their boxes. If you've already got one or more, don't connect and "activate" them in your system until you first connect the incoming coax directly to this DVDR or to your HDTV, scan for analog/digital channels, and see if you really "can't see ANYTHING.

    If it turns out that your cableco actually HAS gone all-digital AND actually HAS encrypted (scrambled) ALL their channels, your only options then are:
    1. Place this DVDR on the coax behind the box, which makes it a "slave" to the box but at least allows you to record whatever channel the box is tuned to, as described here. You'll have to set this DVDR on ch. 3 or 4, and leave it there, and set timers for that channel. Check your box for a REC feature or record simultaneously with the DVR if your box has one, as described here.
    2. Switch to OTA antenna (see what channels are on your local airwaves).
    3. Switch to Satellite (DishTV or DirecTV).
    4. Get their #@*&%* boxes and pay them their enslavement fee. A rented cableco DVR might be your best option since it seamlessly integrates with your existing cable system and you can just trade it in if it dies or a better DVR comes along. You can then use your DVDR to record from the STB and copy from the DVR, or to view/record OTA channels with an indoor or outdoor antenna at your main TV or one of your other TVs scattered throughout your home.
    5. Get a Tivo w/rented cablecard. (However, see this before you go this route.)
       
  4. Known Cable/OTA Channels Won't Tune, or
    Timer Records Black or Wrong Channel

    Some cable/OTA antenna users have "duplicate" channels or bad channel-mapping info so they refuse to tune or be timer recorded. To fix, FIRST do another Auto Channel Preset to see if that simple action fixes things.

    For a couple of oddball remedies, click the HDMI and Dust links in #5 above for info on users who found a bad HDMI cable or dust on the circuit boards made them lose channel tuning.

    If no help, see the solutions described in the "Map-Your-Own" section below.
     
  5. FIOS Premium Channels Can Cause Conflicts
    Ken.F advises not scanning in (or deleting) FIOS ch. 1-10 since they use those ch. for encrypted premium content that can cause tuning interference in these DVDRs if in channel memory. He advises running Auto Channel Preset with coax OFF for those channels. See "Clean Tuner" Solution below for procedure.

    Here are four posts that describe one user's use of the "coax-off" scan in his FIOS system, where he found premium channels also above ch. 90.
     
  6. ION Airbox OTA Channel(s) USED TO Cause Shutdown, "Dead"/Freeze, etc.
    ION OTA AirBox channel(s) used to cause problems, but ION supposedly fixed the problem in their signal. List of channels here just in case.
     
  7. Machine Freezes and Appears "Dead"
    As a temporary measure, a "dead" unit can be revived with a Soft Reset, as described here.

    A workaround for a unit that freezes only occasionally is the "Clean-Tuner Solution" below.

    For a 513 or 515 that has many recurring freezes, a permanent solution is this Funai DTV-S 0x2C FW Update

    When all else fails, you can try the "Grounder" solution: his 515 was rendered inoperable by loading of the Power Supply by poorly connected DVD ribbon cables. If you remove those cables, make sure you open any clamshell latches on ends and don't rock them side-to-side to remove, pull straight out.

    Go back to List. ...... Go to main list of help files.


The "Map-Your-Own" Solution for OTA & Cable TV
 

• Don't use CH+/- to tune a duplicate channel you want to DELETE in the Manual Channel Preset menu. Instead, while in that menu, tune to a different channel in same tuner, then direct-enter the number you want to delete


You have to watch closely, but you can sometimes SEE problem channels ("co-channels," or duplicate-channels) "flashing" from one number to another in the front-panel display as you surf thru the problem area with CH+/-. You can also find duplicate channels by seeing the same program content and station call sign on diff. channel number. Other times, it's not obvious and requires a search thru channel listing resources for station call signs, like "KTVT-TV", as described in the suggestions below.

 

If all digital channels are blank or blue-screen:

See if it's temporary by toggling from digital to analog tuner and back to digital.

 

Temp. workaround for a channel that refuses to timer record:

Using only the CH+/- button, tune your DVDR to the actual channel you want... live TV pic showing desired channel/content, don't worry about channel #s. Stay on that channel and set up a timer program with that channel automatically inserted in the timer menu. Test with 1-min. timer program. If problem recurs, see next suggestions.

 

If you have a missing or "flashing" channel:

 

1. Use these sources to discover YOUR Physical (Display) and Virtual ch. #s:

  1. Antenna: rabbitears.info for antenna ch. #s.
  2. Antenna: tvfool.com for antenna ch. #s and directions from your location.
  3. Antenna & Cable: silicondust.com, Enter zip, then type of service in dropdown box at top, then "grid view" at right for both antenna & cable ch. #s side-by-side. Use them all as necessary to ferret out where they actually put their Physical channels that this DVDR can tune.
  4. Antenna & Cable: Wiki. Search a station's call sign, like "WFLA-TV," for info on that station, incl. ch. #s.

 

2. In a trial-and-error process, delete one of the duplicate numbers using the Manual Channel Preset menu. You can start with the following: If analog/digital, delete analog... if low#/high#, delete low#... if flashing, delete either one. If no joy, reverse process.

 

Successful Map-Your-Own resolutions of duplicate-channel problems:

  1. CABLE, Artwire & Nottenst, high/low DTV interference, higher-numbered channel used for timer rec. LONG series of posts.
  2. CABLE, Stump69, high/low DTV interference, higher-numbered channel used for timer rec.
  3. CABLE, Ken.F, high/low DTV interference, deleted lower ch.
  4. CABLE, Sap2007, high/low DTV interference, deleted lower ch.
  5. CABLE, DojoPat, multiple DTV duplicates at 117.X, deleted 117.X group.
  6. OTA, PeterTheGeek and George55, both solved their "out-of-order" channel problem by combining the main Physical ch. # with the Virtual subchannel #.
  7. OTA, Jam-h, duplicated 5 & 9, deleted both, added Physical (RF) 44 & 38 per rabbitears.info.
  8. OTA, ALP, duplicate HD/SD DTV channels 5.1/5,2, out of order w/CH+/-, fixed for timer rec by using Physical (RF) ch.#s per rabbitears.info
  9. OTA, Kansas_Tom, both 13 & 44 on 13.1, deleted 13 by MANUALLY entering 13 in menu (not w/CH+/-), added 44.
  10. OTA, jjeff, double-duplicated DTV HD/SD 9 & HD/SD 29 in Minneapolis-St. Paul area, deleted 29 leaving it still recordable via timer (direct-entry of deleted ch. #). PeterTheGeek, also OTA in same area, gives tested options 5 posts below.
  11. OTA, gryffandor, duplicate channels 11 & 29 compete for 11.1 and both show sequentially as "11.1," w/ch. 29 not obvious except by Wiki search by ch. call sign, deleting 29 cleared spot for true 11.1
 
Be aware that a subsequent unmodified (all-channel) Auto Channel Preset will bring back any problem channels, requiring this "fix" again, but at least now you'll know how to fix. To prevent this, pull coax off for bad channel or group(s), as reqd

 

Go back to List. ...... Go to main list of help files.



The "Clean-Tuner" Solution for Cable TV

 

This solution can fix any DVDR model on cable that loses digital tuning on occasion or exhibits other odd tuning problems.


If currently dead, do a Soft Reset to revive it. Then do the following:

 

  1. Once your unit is operational, do an Auto Channel Preset > Cable (Analog/Digital) with the coax OFF for all your channels, both analog and digital. This is to wipe the channel memory in both tuners so you can start with a "clean slate."
     
  2. Do another Auto Channel Preset with the coax ON, but only for one of the tuners, whichever you use most and need NOW. If you cableco went "all-digital," always skip the analog channels (1-125).

    You can do a single-tuner scan with the coax's inner core fully inserted/engaged but the nut barely threaded so you can remove or insert it more quickly. You can also use a push-on coax. Analog channels go first and quickly up to 69 (Antenna) or 125 (Cable), and digitals go next and slowly up to 69 (Antenna) or 135 (Cable). Don't worry about missing a few channels in the "good" tuner, you can always add channels manually later... just don't let the scan catch any of the channels in the other tuner.

 

These are the first steps in isolating problems to a single tuner. If a channel problem still exists, now you know there's one or more duplicated channels in THAT tuner that need to be found and deleted as described above.

After you've operated normally for enough time to see if you've now got a clean tuner, you can Add back important channels you really need in the "problem" tuner, using Manual Channel Preset. Don't duplicate any channels, like WABC in both analog/digital tuners or in high/low DTV slots, and don't Add any crapchannels you don't really need.

If no joy with a 2160A/513/515, a permanent solution might be a FW Update to the latest FW available, as described here.

 

Success stories:

  1. CABLE, Javtosser, problem and results, two analog ch. interfering with digitals, scanned digital tuner only.
  2. CABLE, Sleeve1961, problem and results, had constant lockups with 515, scanned digital tuner only..
  3. CABLE, DaveFinton, lots of analog/digital dups w/lockups if he turned off on analog ch., scanned analog tuner only, added one important digital manually.
  4. CABLE, Kansas_Tom, had same problem as DaveFinton (lockups when left on analog ch. on shutdown), scanned both tuners with coax off, then added important channels manually.
 
Be aware that a subsequent unmodified (all-channel) Auto Channel Preset will bring back any problem channels, requiring this "fix" again, but at least now you'll know how to fix. To prevent this, pull coax off for bad channel or group(s), as reqd

 

Go back to List. ...... Go to main list of help files..

 

FW Update for Freezes with 513/515

 

There's a FW Update, Ver02C, for fixing a 513/515 that locks up (plays dead) regularly and persistently.

 

Go back to List. ...... Go to main list of help files..

 

 

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post #16568 of 27986 Old 10-29-2011, 09:14 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by magwork View Post

Hi All,
A few questions to help me get my DVD recorder back in business. I accidently bumped the DVD tray sideways while putting in a DVD. Now it is stuck open. I plan to open up the case a try to fix it. Any suggetions or cautions? I've never opened a DVD player before.

Also, does anyone know of a way to expand the storage on this unit? Our hard drive is always almost full, so we need to delete a show to record a show. I started saving things to DVDs, but then the tray broke.

Thanks in advance for your thoughts!

Here's a help file with info and pics on "Getting to the Insdes" and "DVD" stuff.

See other subjects in that help file on expanding the HDD (dock-and-play and single enclosure installs).
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post #16569 of 27986 Old 10-29-2011, 09:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SwamJim View Post

I spent a couple of hours, last night, looking at the things Wajo recommended in his help file, looking at a number of UPS models, and trying to get some basic information on UPS devices off of the Net. I know nothing about electronics and all of that, so I just find my head is still spinning. I really appreciate Dare2be and Wajo's advice, and that gets me going in the right direction. But I came across so much technical stuff, but nothing seemed to answer one final basic question I have: How long of a backup during a power outage will the UPS give me with my 2160A or give my friend with her 515?

You've gotten some good answers. I just skimmed through them, but I didn't see a lot of emphasis on this basic distinction:

A UPS has two aspects to its size: how much power it can supply when running on the battery, and how long it can supply that power. Theoretically, those two are independent, although usually when one is bigger the other tends to be bigger also. The raw VA (volt-amp) rating indicates how much power the unit can supply. The more meaningful watts rating is similar but lower because of inefficiencies. To know how long the unit can supply its rated output power, you need to know the amp-hour capacity of the battery, which is often not as obvious on the packaging. As a rule of thumb, the heavier the UPS (weight being mostly the battery), the longer it will supply power at any given output level. You need a unit that will supply enough watts to comfortably exceed the total watts drawn by all connected equipment, with enough battery size to run as long as needed.
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post #16570 of 27986 Old 10-29-2011, 10:10 AM
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Hi everyone,

I just purchased a Magnavox 515 and I think I'm having the problem that's been described here previously regarding freezes when tuning analog channels. I have two Magnavox 2160s that have been working perfectly for a very long time--I've been extremely happy with these units (as long as I use the manual time setting!).

I use these recorders to record analog stations from my cable provider. I have only basic cable, which does provide access to some digital stations, but they move around a lot, don't cover all of the analog channels, and for at least one digital channel, the 2160s occasionally drop the sound. If I paid the extra $50/month for the next cable tier, I'd get a whole-house 4-tuner DVR system, which would remove the need for me to even have the HDD recorders! I've been really happy with the 2160s being able to record the analog channels.

Anyway, the 515 works fine to the point of getting everything set up (auto-channel tune, manual clock setup). I originally had the coax output of one 2160s as input to the 515 (my other 2160 is in another room), with the coax output of the 515 going to the TV [In other words, all three devices in series in the order 2160, 515, TV]. After I had the freeze problem, I changed this to split the incoming coax before being fed to the HDD recorders (I thought maybe the coax amplication of the 2160 could have been the source of the problem). In this configuration, the 515's coax output is not used; the 2160's output goes to the TV. After making this change, the 2160 continued to work normally, but there was no difference in the 515's behavior.

The 515 is hooked up to the TV using component video (I would use HDMI, but I need to buy another cable...).

After autotuning the 515, all appropriate analog channels were found. However, I did notice some amount of sputtering and flickering on some of the analog channels (as reported in previous postings). When not sputtering, the picture quality is great (no snow/interference). I've never seen the problem of the 515 locking up on power up or at any time while using it interactively, and I always use the analog channels. However, the problem I have is that if I program it to record (an analog channel), then at some point during the recording, the unit freezes and stops responding. A hard power cycle (with the 2.5 hour wait) is required to turn it back on.

It appears to me that this is the analog signal problem that others have reported--the solution appears to be to avoid using the analog channels. However, this is not an option for me. I'll be returning this unit while I can, but my question is, do we think this problem inherent in the design of the unit or is just a common defect? In other words, if I get a replacement unit, is there a chance it will actually work, or is my cableco's signal never going to work with the 515?

Thanks,

/Sleeve
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post #16571 of 27986 Old 10-29-2011, 10:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by L David Matheny View Post

You've gotten some good answers. I just skimmed through them, but I didn't see a lot of emphasis on this basic distinction:

A UPS has two aspects to its size: how much power it can supply when running on the battery, and how long it can supply that power. Theoretically, those two are independent, although usually when one is bigger the other tends to be bigger also. The raw VA (volt-amp) rating indicates how much power the unit can supply. The more meaningful watts rating is similar but lower because of inefficiencies. To know how long the unit can supply its rated output power, you need to know the amp-hour capacity of the battery, which is often not as obvious on the packaging. As a rule of thumb, the heavier the UPS (weight being mostly the battery), the longer it will supply power at any given output level. You need a unit that will supply enough watts to comfortably exceed the total watts drawn by all connected equipment, with enough battery size to run as long as needed.

Sorry I forgot to mention that grounding issue, but here's a tale for a snowy day. BTW, there are now 800+ people without power in my coverage area and we only have 2" of snow so far.

Given three 1500VA units: each has its own specialty.

The one I use for my computer is the CyberPower. Small, and you'll want to put some black tape over the LED if it's in your line of sight. Also it has no surge-only outlets, so I need a surge strip for my printer and speakers.

The MinuteMan Pro-E has fans that ALWAYS run. Not good if you want a quiet place to watch your latest title. I moved mine to the basement. It can still charge batteries.

My main HT system runs off an APC Back-UPS Pro. It's also in the basement and has 50' of 12-2 feeding an outlet. It was going to be used for my computer, giving me 4 hours of 200w runtime. Small problem: the fan runs for 3 to 4 hours minimum. That means a 6 second outage gets me noise for several hours. Also happens during periodic top-off of the battery every few weeks. It has the extra battery pack. I could watch a 2 hour movie from the power it supplies, but that was a test I only ran once. When the power fails I just listen to the radio. Since that requires an outside antenna with an amplifier in the attic, it has a small UPS on it also.

I would not want to pay shipping to return a unit that I dislike. These things are heavy.

Yesterday I plugged a 515H into my Kill-A-Watt. In 15 hours it has used .08 kwh of juice. It's not a cost issue. I still can't figure the 5w used in standby. My TV only uses .1w unless I enable network access. I can only wish for network access on the 515H.
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post #16572 of 27986 Old 10-29-2011, 10:19 AM
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Originally Posted by Sleeve1961 View Post

Hi everyone,

I just purchased a Magnavox 515 and I think I'm having the problem that's been described here previously regarding freezes when tuning analog channels. I have two Magnavox 2160s that have been working perfectly for a very long time--I've been extremely happy with these units (as long as I use the manual time setting!).

Thanks,

/Sleeve

Just so we can focus our anger, could you specify your cable provider and your location?
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post #16573 of 27986 Old 10-29-2011, 10:20 AM
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I'm thinking the same thing. I haven't had a freeze on my machines for a couple of months or more now that I have made sure that my 515s never turn off and back on with an analog channel.

I suggest that the OP try turning the machine off several times while tuned to an analog channel and see what happens.

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Originally Posted by dare2be View Post

TV123, I wonder if the reported 515 bug about having freeze issues when a unit is left on an analog channel (in your case PBS time search channel) has now been introduced into your V2160A?

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post #16574 of 27986 Old 10-29-2011, 10:28 AM - Thread Starter
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It appears to me that this is the analog signal problem that others have reported--the solution appears to be to avoid using the analog channels. However, this is not an option for me. I'll be returning this unit while I can, but my question is, do we think this problem inherent in the design of the unit or is just a common defect? In other words, if I get a replacement unit, is there a chance it will actually work, or is my cableco's signal never going to work with the 515?

The problem is random and a very low number/percentage but no guarantees on another unit.

Before you take it back, and since you are MOST interested in the analog channels, would you do a test for me?

If so, do another Auto Channel Preset > Cable (Analog/Digital) but PULL THE INCOMING COAX TOWARDS THE END OF THE ANALOG CHANNELS and let the scan complete fully.

Depending on how diff. it might be for you to pull the coax, you can start unscrewing before 125, at analog 115 or so (?) or use a push-on type of coax for this test, then you can wait longer? You can always add analog channels manually if the higher-numbered ones are important. You can also START the scan with the nut unscrewed but the inner core still fully engaged (pushed in), then just pull the coax out at 124 or sooner... just don't let it see any digitals.

Then run as normal and see if this might be the opposite of what we've been thinking... it's not "analog interference" but "digital interference"???
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post #16575 of 27986 Old 10-29-2011, 10:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JoeKustra View Post

Just so we can focus our anger, could you specify your cable provider and your location?

COX Cable, Orange County, CA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wajo View Post

The problem is random and a very low number/percentage but no guarantees on another unit.

Before you take it back, and since you are MOST interested in the analog channels, would you do a test for me?

If so, do another Auto Channel Preset > Cable (Analog/Digital) but PULL THE COAX TOWARDS THE END OF THE ANALOG CHANNELS.

Depending on how diff. it might be for you to pull the coax, you can start unscrewing before 125, at analog 115 or so (?) or use a push-on type of coax for this test, then you can wait longer? You can always add analog channels manually if the higher-numbered ones are important.

Then run as normal and see if this might be the opposite of what we've been thinking... it's not "analog interference" but "digital interference"???

I'll give this a try later this afternoon...
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post #16577 of 27986 Old 10-29-2011, 11:49 AM
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Double "Are you sure?" dialogs down to one.

Some 2160A and 513 units won't start "Autostart Recording" (buffering) in the background when first turned on. People with that problem won't know it isn't turned on if they don't do anything that "activates" it. The 727 FW fixes that, among other things.

Even my orig. 2160 doesn't Autostart every time but I've got no FW to fix it.

Ok, thx for the answer, I've had the "Autostart" problem too, in my case because I have left selected an older program in the HDD Tile Menu, before unplug the recorder.

My solution: when I power up the Maggy I "double check" that the counter shows L1/L2, pressing STOP.

I'm happy that the new FW solves this... anyway I'd like to buy a 515, love the remote, but still not sure about the new menus/bugs.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sleeve1961 View Post

COX Cable, Orange County, CA

Thank you. I have 26 NTSC channels (2 through 22 and a few higher) and 120+ clear QAM digital. No duplicates and no conflicts. I tried to duplicate your problem many times with no success. I hope this issue gets put to rest sooner rather than later.

I understand cable will be permitted to kill all analog in February 2012. I doubt that will happen. There's a better chance for the CM 7400 shipping in November 2011.

Funny, now that I mention it, that Funai has no 2011 Christmas gift for us faithful followers. Maybe the V option for the 2160A is a gift even if it wasn't on purpose. Sorry, getting cabin fever causes rambling.
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post #16579 of 27986 Old 10-29-2011, 12:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JoeKustra View Post

Thank you. I have 26 NTSC channels (2 through 22 and a few higher) and 120+ clear QAM digital. No duplicates and no conflicts. I tried to duplicate your problem many times with no success. I hope this issue gets put to rest sooner rather than later.

I understand cable will be permitted to kill all analog in February 2012. I doubt that will happen. There's a better chance for the CM 7400 shipping in November 2011.

Funny, now that I mention it, that Funai has no 2011 Christmas gift for us faithful followers. Maybe the V option for the 2160A is a gift even if it wasn't on purpose. Sorry, getting cabin fever causes rambling.

Who is your cable provider? Sounds like they don't encrypt anything but maybe the premiums like HBO
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post #16580 of 27986 Old 10-29-2011, 01:59 PM
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Did anyone having a freeze problem with their 515 respond to 234's offer to test a new (BETA) FW update, as posted back in early September?

Ref: https://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showp...ostcount=15850

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post #16581 of 27986 Old 10-29-2011, 02:41 PM
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Who is your cable provider? Sounds like they don't encrypt anything but maybe the premiums like HBO

That's close. They are located from central PA through northern NJ. HBO, Showtime, etc. would be extra premium channels.

http://www.secv.com/sunbury/index_sun.html and secable.com and sectv.com, which are different subs. Even my sub has several headends with maybe 4k people each. It's pretty bad for OTA here, so it's cable or dish.

What I call basic cable is TNT, USA, and that sort of channel plus Philly & NY OTA channels sent in 480i DD2.0 stereo. I get about 20 HD/DD5.1 "local" channels too. I get more since I pay, like BBC America, but I'm going to drop that soon. I can record from my Pace STB, but it's letterbox on RWY and HD on HDMI. I'm going to drop that before 2012. I can get two DTA units for free. With the 2160A and 515H why would I? Having become recently unemployed has changed my priorities.

After hearing stories about other providers, mine seems like a warm puppie. But they don't have a cable card when I want one. There are 10 cable providers within 50 miles. Each one is unique. Check my zipcode on www.noaa.gov for a better picture.
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post #16582 of 27986 Old 10-29-2011, 02:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wajo View Post

"Surge protectors filter the power for surges and offer EMI/RFI filtering but do not efficiently distribute the power, meaning that some equipment may be deprived of the necessary amperage it requires to run properly causing your attached equipment (computer, monitor, etc) to shutdown or reboot".

Could it be at all possible that some freezing units are unusually susceptible to amperage deprivation?

I doubt it. These units just don't draw that much power. If that really is what's causing reboots, either the Funai designers or the designers of the power strip in question (or both) should be flogged for stupendously incompetent design work.
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Quote:
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I doubt it. These units just don't draw that much power. If that really is what's causing reboots, both the Funai designers and the designers of the power strip in question should be flogged for stupendously incompetent design work.

Cosmic rays. I always blame cosmic rays.
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post #16584 of 27986 Old 10-29-2011, 03:40 PM
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I had the freezes and never used a surge protector and still don't. I'd try leaving it on analog and turning it off if you'd come over and reprogram my schedule for me.

Seriously, I will get off my butt in the next few days and see if analog is still an issue. Need to leave time for the soft reset and take some pics of the recording schedule.

Quote:
Originally Posted by wajo View Post




Regardless of the theories that might be presented against this idea, could someone who has "fairly regular" random freeze-ups and runs their DVDR on a surge-protector remove the surge protector and plug the DVDR directly into the wall for awhile (during good weather) to prove or disprove this silly idea?

?

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post #16585 of 27986 Old 10-29-2011, 03:46 PM - Thread Starter
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Thanks, that settles it for me.
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post #16586 of 27986 Old 10-29-2011, 08:43 PM
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Quote:
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The one I use for my computer is the CyberPower. Small, and you'll want to put some black tape over the LED if it's in your line of sight.

I agree that the power button light is way too bright on the CyberPower UPS. I took a sticky note and blacked it out with a marker to put over the power button. It lets just enough light through to be able to see the button but if I wanted to totally black it out I think a second sticky note would do the trick.
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post #16587 of 27986 Old 10-29-2011, 10:20 PM
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I agree that the power button light is way too bright on the CyberPower UPS. I took a sticky note and blacked it out with a marker to put over the power button. It lets just enough light through to be able to see the button ...

I've done that with a number of pieced of equipment, especially those with blue LED indicators. Those things are way too bright if they're anywhere in the viewing area.

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post #16588 of 27986 Old 10-30-2011, 05:45 AM
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To me more annoying than the light is the constant loud beeping(every 10 seconds or so) when the power is out to my 350va APC. My bedroom LCD, DVDR, and DVD player is on a older 350va APC and gives a loud chirp when the power goes out and a series of loud beeps ~every 10 seconds after that! It's so bad that I generally turn if OFF during the outage. I'm not sure if one can disable the beeps or even set it up to not beep at all but since I rarely record with that DVDR I just turn it off and try and fall back to sleep Luckily my power is quite stable(maybe one outage/year) otherwise I'd probably not use this UPS in the bedroom or anywhere near it.
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post #16589 of 27986 Old 10-30-2011, 07:46 AM
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Hey all you wizards out there,
Help!
Have new dish network remote.
I can't get it to run my H2160MW9 properly,
with all functions?

Again help!
What is the code for my unit?

Thanks in advance,
Jim.

[email protected]
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post #16590 of 27986 Old 10-30-2011, 08:17 AM - Thread Starter
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Hey all you wizards out there,
Help! Have new dish network remote. I can't get it to run my H2160MW9 properly, with all functions?
What is the code for my unit?

Only code I've seen here is 661 for a VIP211K, which works for certain Mag functions, as noted in this post.
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