Magnavox 557, 537, 535, 533, 515, 513, 2160A, 2160, 2080 & Philips 3576, 3575 - Page 715 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #21421 of 27986 Old 09-02-2012, 03:04 PM
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darnyd,
I'm not familiar with the unit you have, but here's some information on "mixing" various signals on a single coax. I have 4 satellite receivers and an attic mounted antenna for off-air signals. I use the antenna whenever the satellite goes out. That way I still can receive all my local channels. Also, I have the output of all 4 satellite receivers modulated, so I can watch any receiver on any of my 8 TV sets.
i.e, receiver 1 also outputs on ch 55, receiver 2 outputs on ch 60, etc. I then take all 4 outputs and the attic antenna and feed them to a 5 way splitter, except I turn it around and make a combiner out of it. So, just feed what signals you have to the output side of a splitter, and the input, becomes the combined output. You can use a 2 way, 3 way, or what ever you need. And, the signals can be digital or analog, cable, UHF, VHF, etc. It doesn't matter.

Regarding switching between signals and rescanning...in the setup I described above, as all the signals are on one "pipe", there's no need to switch cables. Some devices require that you rescan to "memorize" the channels though. Others can switch between signal types with the press of a button. For example, I have a Viso TV that I switch between HDMI and Antenna to watch either my satellite receiver (HDMI) or the antenna (TV) in my case.

Hope this helps! Good Luck!

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post #21422 of 27986 Old 09-02-2012, 03:26 PM
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By the way, in my last post regarding combining signals using a splitter in reverse, I failed to mention how I "modulated" the signals from my 4 satellite receivers. I have Dish network, so the receivers have a built in modulator function, you can select any channel in the range permitted. If you don't have Dish, there are stand alone frequency agile modulators out there. I've used a Sony MRDD1 (multi room distribution device (I think). There are others. You just take the A/V output from the receiver, plug it into the modulator and set the output channel to a blank or empty space on the coax you're using. For example, if you're hooked up to a cable system that goes from ch A to ch K, you need to assign a ch L or higher. Generally, you should leave a blank channel below and above the one you select. This will minimize cross-channel interference. The antenna channels in my area are UHF, so I didn't need to consider them at all. Note: most fixed modulators use ch 3 or 4 for output....can't use those here as you already have signals on those channels (most likely).

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post #21423 of 27986 Old 09-02-2012, 05:39 PM
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That's quite interesting. I would have bet the farm that a "reverse splitter" would not work.

quote name="dondd" url="/t/940657/magnavox-537-535-533-515-513-2160a-2160-2080-philips-3576-3575/21420#post_22365714"]darnyd,
I'm not familiar with the unit you have, but here's some information on "mixing" various signals on a single coax. I have 4 satellite receivers and an attic mounted antenna for off-air signals. I use the antenna whenever the satellite goes out. That way I still can receive all my local channels. Also, I have the output of all 4 satellite receivers modulated, so I can watch any receiver on any of my 8 TV sets.
i.e, receiver 1 also outputs on ch 55, receiver 2 outputs on ch 60, etc. I then take all 4 outputs and the attic antenna and feed them to a 5 way splitter, except I turn it around and make a combiner out of it. So, just feed what signals you have to the output side of a splitter, and the input, becomes the combined output. You can use a 2 way, 3 way, or what ever you need. And, the signals can be digital or analog, cable, UHF, VHF, etc. It doesn't matter.
Regarding switching between signals and rescanning...in the setup I described above, as all the signals are on one "pipe", there's no need to switch cables. Some devices require that you rescan to "memorize" the channels though. Others can switch between signal types with the press of a button. For example, I have a Viso TV that I switch between HDMI and Antenna to watch either my satellite receiver (HDMI) or the antenna (TV) in my case.
Hope this helps! Good Luck!
dondd[/quote]
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post #21424 of 27986 Old 09-02-2012, 06:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dondd View Post

Also, I have the output of all 4 satellite receivers modulated, so I can watch any receiver on any of my 8 TV sets.
i.e, receiver 1 also outputs on ch 55, receiver 2 outputs on ch 60, etc. I then take all 4 outputs and the attic antenna and feed them to a 5 way splitter, except I turn it around and make a combiner out of it. So, just feed what signals you have to the output side of a splitter, and the input, becomes the combined output.
You probably don't realize it, but by doing what you are doing you are broadcasting your rf modulated satellite receiver signals out through your antenna. Unless you are licensed to do so, that is an FCC no-no. Just be aware of it.

- kelson h

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post #21425 of 27986 Old 09-02-2012, 06:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Kelson View Post

If a cable broadcast is marked by CCI bit to be copy-once, TiVo will not allow the program to be digitally exported out of the TiVo -- that includes network transfer to a PC and it also includes network transfer to another TiVo for viewing in another room.

Ah crap, I tend to forget that little issue! frown.gif
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You probably don't realize it, but by doing what you are doing you are broadcasting your rf modulated satellite receiver signals out through your antenna. Unless you are licensed to do so, that is an FCC no-no. Just be aware of it.

I guess that is a wise idea, until he gets the right equipment to do a better streaming of those signals.
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post #21426 of 27986 Old 09-02-2012, 06:09 PM
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Ah crap, I tend to forget that little issue! frown.gif
Any device licensed for cable card must adhere to their license terms. Probably why you will never see any kind of optical disk recorder with a cable card slot.

- kelson h

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post #21427 of 27986 Old 09-03-2012, 07:31 AM
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Kelson,
Thanks for the comment. I probably should have included a schematic of my network, but I'm new to this forum and didn't think to do it. However, in order to prevent anything from going up the antenna, and because I have an elaborate distribution network, I stuck a 10db amp coming from the antenna. That amplifies the off-air stuff coming in, but the amp is only one way, so nothing gets by it in the other direction.

I've not done any sophisticated signal measuring, but I suspect that signals going into one "input" of the splitter (remember it's reversed) are greatly attenuated on the other "inputs", and the output is strictly within the house. When I get a chance, I'll convert a portion of my network drawing to a jpeg (currently done with Netviz) so you can see what I'm saying....does that make sense? smile.gif
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post #21428 of 27986 Old 09-03-2012, 09:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kelson View Post

You probably don't realize it, but by doing what you are doing you are broadcasting your rf modulated satellite receiver signals out through your antenna. Unless you are licensed to do so, that is an FCC no-no. Just be aware of it.

hi folks...

depending upon the actual modulator specs, dondd would likely NOT be violating the rules. assuming a device ( including the modulators in the dish receivers ) complying with part 15 to begin with ( which i believe they must do ) , the field strength is sufficiently weak so as to not violate such rules. tests notwithstanding, i have used various part 15 modulators in the past, and NONE of them have exceeded the rf field strengths limited by the rules.

even without dondd's 1-way amp, the loss in his 5-way splitter between ports ( assuming it's a simple passive device ) is going to be at least 3 dB from each of his modulators to the OTA connected port, putting each modulated signal at least 3dB below the already part 15 compliant power levels ( the rules actually refer to RF field strength at a given distance from a radiating element, as opposed to power level ) ...

in my limited experience, i've had trouble even making a usable signal from a free air 1/4 wave omni antenna connected directly to the output of these modulators at more than 10 feet, including attempts with a dish receiver modulator, which i had for a short period of time while reviewing their service.

in essence, while some interpretation of the rules might result in a technical violation, i don't think the FCC will be too interested in tracking down this level of usage, unless a neighbor loses signal due to actual interference from dondd's elaborate setup.

just my senile thoughts, here... smile.gif
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post #21429 of 27986 Old 09-03-2012, 11:53 PM
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After a power blackout my 515 DVR's won't power up. The power was out for several hours. I have 3 of these units in various parts of the house and they are all acting the same way. Any suggestions?
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post #21430 of 27986 Old 09-04-2012, 12:07 AM
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Originally Posted by rwp8809 View Post

After a power blackout my 515 DVR's won't power up. The power was out for several hours. I have 3 of these units in various parts of the house and they are all acting the same way. Any suggestions?
.
1-Perform soft reset.
2-Protect with a UPS.

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post #21431 of 27986 Old 09-04-2012, 06:03 AM
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dondd sat network.JPG 86k .JPG file

rkg22,

You're absolutely correct on the FCC, et.as. thing. To clarify, I've attached a jpeg of my network....don't laugh, it all works!
I'm not sure how to display the attached jpeg in this post. Someone let me know, please. Thanks
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post #21432 of 27986 Old 09-04-2012, 06:18 AM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by dondd View Post

dondd sat network.JPG 86k .JPG file

rkg22,

You're absolutely correct on the FCC, et.as. thing. To clarify, I've attached a jpeg of my network....don't laugh, it all works!
I'm not sure how to display the attached jpeg in this post. Someone let me know, please. Thanks

 

Here's an Article on how to insert images and use the AVS Editors.

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post #21433 of 27986 Old 09-04-2012, 09:40 PM
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I hope this is the correct place to post this..... I just wanted to pass this info on...... I have a Magnavox MDR515H 500GB HD..... about a year old..... always worked perfectly..... recently had a power outage and when the power came back on..... my 515 didn't want to cooperate..... no remote or console power on would get it back running..... I let it sit for a few days since I was in no hurry to attempt the "soft reset" I had read about..... tonight I thought I'd try it since it would give me time to get it in the shop before the new season starts if the procedure didn't work.....

I followed the "soft reset" instructions to the letter..... I unplugged the power cord for a little over 2.5 hours..... then..... while depressing the console power on button with my left hand..... I plugged in the power cord with my right..... almost immediately the "- - : - -" appeared..... followed by the "P-On" a couple seconds later..... I let go of the console power on button and my 515 was back in business.....

everything was still on the hard drive..... and everything was as I had left it..... in other words..... I lost no settings with the exception of having to reset the current time.....

so to anyone who has any doubts about the validity of the soft reset procedure..... I can assure you from personal experience..... it worked as per the instrucations on my Magnavox MDR515H 500GB HD.....

and while I'm here..... I'd be remiss without saying..... while I'm not an electronics tech..... I've been around computers most of my life since the days when I first started operating IBM System 360 computers in the service about 35 years ago..... so I've got a fairly good understanding and working knowledge of "stuff"..... this forum and the information contained within is the most extensive and detailed concentration of information on basically one type of unit that I have ever come across..... my hat is off and I stand and applaud in awe of the person named "wajo"..... in this one incident..... I can safely say that I saved at least a $75 bench charge because of the information I received here for free..... I'm sure I speak for others as well when I say..... we are truly grateful..... and to use a very cliched remark.....

"this place is the best thing since sliced bread".....

thank you.
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post #21434 of 27986 Old 09-05-2012, 12:51 AM
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......... this forum and the information contained within is the most extensive and detailed concentration of information on basically one type of unit that I have ever come across..... my hat is off and I stand and applaud in awe of the person named "wajo"..... in this one incident..... I can safely say that I saved at least a $75 bench charge because of the information I received here for free..... I'm sure I speak for others as well when I say..... we are truly grateful..... and to use a very cliched remark.....
"this place is the best thing since sliced bread".....
thank you.
....and to use another old cliche....."from your lips to Funai's ears".

Perhaps one of these century's, Funai will update their manual(s) to include not only that "Soft-Reset" procedure but also correct the many errors and omissions in the new MDR533.535,537 manual, as detailed by Wajo here

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post #21435 of 27986 Old 09-05-2012, 07:12 AM
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CAN THIS BE TRUE? I just saw 533s selling for $248.00 and 535s selling for $278.00 at Walmart.com.
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post #21436 of 27986 Old 09-05-2012, 07:25 AM - Thread Starter
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CAN THIS BE TRUE? I just saw 533s selling for $248.00 and 535s selling for $278.00 at Walmart.com.

 

Yes, it's true!

 

533

 

535

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post #21437 of 27986 Old 09-05-2012, 08:45 AM
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Be the first to write a review biggrin.gif
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post #21438 of 27986 Old 09-05-2012, 09:16 AM
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And where are the 537s?

THAT's what I'm looking for. (Yeah, like I need another recorder. Heh.)
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post #21439 of 27986 Old 09-05-2012, 12:42 PM
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Originally Posted by rkg22 View Post

hi folks...

in essence, while some interpretation of the rules might result in a technical violation, i don't think the FCC will be too interested in tracking down this level of usage, unless a neighbor loses signal due to actual interference from dondd's elaborate setup.
just my senile thoughts, here... smile.gif

I don't know man, these days it seems that FCC likes to chase the average costumer instead the big cablecos...
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Originally Posted by wajo View Post

Yes, it's true!

533

535

Wajo, do you know how much for the 537? confused.gif

Also, say good bye to those e-pirats trying to sell the 513 for $799!, and the 515 for $1.449!
biggrin.gifbiggrin.gifbiggrin.gif
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post #21440 of 27986 Old 09-05-2012, 12:46 PM - Thread Starter
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Wajo, do you know how much for the 537? confused.gif

Also, say good bye to those e-pirats trying to sell the 513 for $799!, and the 515 for $1.449!
biggrin.gifbiggrin.gifbiggrin.gif

 

Don't know for sure but I'm guessing $308-329, based solely on other unit prices?

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post #21441 of 27986 Old 09-05-2012, 01:14 PM
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Don't know for sure but I'm guessing $308-329, based solely on other unit prices?
As OEM cost differential between a 500GB and a 1TB HDD is nominal, my guess is the 537 will have an MSRP of $399.99 and WalMart will offer it for $299.88 (25% off list).

biggrin.gif

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post #21442 of 27986 Old 09-05-2012, 01:19 PM
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Originally Posted by stapler1234 View Post

As OEM cost differential between a 500GB and a 1TB HDD is nominal, my guess is the 537 will have an MSRP of $399.99 and WalMart will offer it for $299.88 (25% off list).
biggrin.gif
My bet is $359 from W.
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post #21443 of 27986 Old 09-05-2012, 01:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wajo View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by john4228 View Post

CAN THIS BE TRUE? I just saw 533s selling for $248.00 and 535s selling for $278.00 at Walmart.com.

Yes, it's true!

533

535

Finally! Someting NEW to talk about. biggrin.giftongue.gifrolleyes.gif

Luke

Evil is charming and beautiful. It makes you doubt yourself. It asks for one small compromise after another until it whittles you down, and it functions best when no one believes in it.-JOA
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post #21444 of 27986 Old 09-05-2012, 02:30 PM
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Finally! Someting NEW to talk about. biggrin.giftongue.gifrolleyes.gif

Color me cynical, but what's new? More units - wonderful. It's better than I expected. But NEW? I hope there are no new problems, just bigger disk storage.

I guess you're right though: something to talk about. But the manual still has PBS in it.
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post #21445 of 27986 Old 09-05-2012, 04:14 PM
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I don't come around here that often so I haven't been following the info on the new models. Other than the 1TB HDD in the 537 are there any improvements over the older models? I guess specifically the 515 since that's the latest model, till now.
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post #21446 of 27986 Old 09-05-2012, 05:20 PM
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I don't come around here that often so I haven't been following the info on the new models. Other than the 1TB HDD in the 537 are there any improvements over the older models? I guess specifically the 515 since that's the latest model, till now.

You can read the user manuals via links on previous pages.
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post #21447 of 27986 Old 09-05-2012, 05:38 PM
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You can read the user manuals via links on previous pages.



Thanks. I did a quick check of the manual and didn't see much different. I figured the guys around here have already analyzed these things closer the the Dead Sea Scrolls! Where's Wajo when you need him? biggrin.gif
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post #21448 of 27986 Old 09-05-2012, 05:48 PM - Thread Starter
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8th Generation of Philips/Magnavox HDD/DVD Std Def (SD) Recorders:
MDR533H/F7, MDR535H/F7, MDR537H/F7 (53x Series)


Amazon:
533 (320GB)
535 (500GB)
537 (1TB)
Operating Manual


  • The 53x Series HDDs have a different allocation unit size in the FW so it *MAY* not be possible to swap HDDs between the previous 7 generations of these recorders and the 53x Series recorders.
  • A 9th-generation model, MDR557H/F7, appeared 4/28/14 on Amazon. It's a follow-on to the 53x Series and adds Combine Titles to Edit menu and changes a few key features.



These are updated versions of the 515, as "we" requested in "our" Prime-1 Wish... actually, one I added after a grapevine grabbed me and said it was all over, we might not get ANYTHING more, which prompted the "appeal to Walmart" with the Prime-1 request reiterated from Wish List #1 , and the rest is history! You can blame me or thank me for Prime-1, your choice.

The differences between these and the 515 are:
  1. All new FW.
  2. New tuner.
  3. More stable due to 1 and 2.
  4. 999 HDD titles vs 600.
  5. May have more "accurate" cable-channel mapping than previous models.

Unfortunately, virtually all the errors, omissions and misleads in the manual are still there. Here's a list with page numbers added so newbies know what's still wrong.

Top 12 Things Still Wrong, Misleading or Omitted In the 53x Manual

Jump To:
  1. WRONG: Connection sketch for cable box shows this DVDR behind the box. Still there and still wrong. pg 19.
  2. WRONG: Use your TV tuner (CH- from 2) to find the Initial Setup menu. Fixed in 53x manual. pg 22.
  3. WRONG: Digital channels can't be recovered once deleted. Still wrong, pg 31.
  4. WRONG: PBS is only channel mentioned for auto clock setting. Still wrong. PBS has a time signal but it's almost always WRONG! FOX, CBS & some ABC stations better. pp 28, 32-33.
  5. WRONG: "Unfinalized disc" not playable. Still wrong, pg 67.
  6. WRONG: Overwrite can only be done on unfinalized DVD±RW. Still wrong, pg 52.
  7. OBSCURE: Only one note on important effect of Progressive Scan setting on Mag outputs. Still obscure, still only on pg 15.
  8. MISLEADING: "This unit cannot record images with an aspect ratio of 16:9." Makes a technical point users don't give a ****zu about! It's still misleading and totally unnecessary. Doesn't tell the MOST CRITICAL PART of this very technical subject, as described below. MANY people don't buy after reading this ill-advised statement, or they buy then don't know they have to set TV Aspect to "16:9 Wide" to record WS stuff. Both groups then post negative comments quoting this misleading statement from the manual. Other people believe this crap and THEY decide it's not for them. The manual should tell readers they can record or copy WS if they set Video > TV Aspect to "16:9 Wide." pg 45.
  9. HALF-TRUTH: Power backup time is 30 sec. (1-hour for 515 & 53x). Both true but only if you don't have Auto Clock ON or set for MANUAL channel. pg 34.
  10. OMITTED: Special Edit/Scene Delete instructions for Front- and End-Cut are undocumented. Still omitted, pp 93-94.
  11. OMITTED: No warning that real-time rec or dub to DVD at different rec mode makes that the default mode. Still omitted.
  12. OMITTED: The Soft Reset procedure for "dead" or "frozen" units. Still omitted but necessary if Funai hasn't fixed the rare but annoying "freeze" issue, which has generated lots of negative reviews because they're the perfect way to shows their anger, and they don't know how easy it is to recover from. No mention in the manual and no reference to avsforum.com for the answer. Still annoying but recoverable if they knew how.


1. WRONG: Connection sketch for cable box wrong for most people. Still wrong. pg 19

For a system with a cable box, the manual shows the box 1st on the coax but that makes this DVDR a slave to the box, i.e., you can only record whatever single channel the box is tuned to and you can't watch one channel while recording another. Ridiculous.

DVDR 1st on the coax, as shown here, takes advantage of this DVDRs amplified coax passthru-and-splitter circuit and makes any clear-QAM channels (many users have them) "independently" tunable and recordable. You can also record one channel on this DVDR while watching another channel thru the cable box or TV's independent tuner.

This doesn't change even if ALL your cable channels are scrambled, and you'll only knoiw THAT if you disregard the sketch and put this DVDR 1st on the coax, do an Auto Channel Preset > Cable (Analog/Digital), and see if your DVDR can tune any channels by itself. Worst case: this DVDR can still provide an amplified passthru signal, whether it's on or off, to the cable box if this DVDR is 1st on the coax.

Only if you order PPV/VOD thru the box or if this DVDR interferes with your cableco's Guide or maintenance services should you, instead, use a 2-way bidirectional splitter, with its -3.7dB (min.) signal loss, on the incoming cable, with one output to the cable box and one to this DVDR.

JUST DO NOT MAKE THIS DVDR A SLAVE TO THE BOX BY CONNECTING THE BOX 1ST ON THE COAX AS SHOWN IN THE MANUAL!

Unlike a cable box, the incoming coax from a satellite antenna, which has power/amperage, should not connected to this DVDR at all, as shown here.

Go back to List. ...... Go to main list of help files.

2. WRONG: Use your TV tuner (CH- from 2) to "find" the Initial Setup menu. Fixed in 53x manual. pg 22.

This error alone must account for a high percentage of unit returns. To see the Initial Setup menu, you have to have your TV on the Input to which you connected this DVDR.

Unfortunatelu, the "Before You Start" page in the manual advises you to use your TV tuner to find the Initial Setup menu, as follows: "Press '2' on TV's remote control, then press channel down button repeatedly until you see "Initial Setup" menu." That's WRONG for most people!

Funai apparently assumed that your TV's tuner worked like their oddball, hybrid (switched) tuner in this DVDR. Their tuner ratchets thru the channels AND eventually lands on one of its external inputs (L1, L2, L3, USB).

Your HDTV probably does NOT work that way since most modern TVs have an integrated tuner with only channels in its CH+/- sequence... it never lands on any of its inputs. Your HDTV prob. has a separate button to select one of its INPUTS.

To see the Initial Setup menu, simply select the TV INPUT to which you connected this DVDR... and that can't be the coax connector (ANT IN) since nothing internal on the DVDR goes thru that coax, it's just a signal passthru.

Go back to List. ...... Go to main list of help files.

3. WRONG: Digital channels can't be recovered once deleted. Still wrong. pg 31

Once you complete an Auto Channel Preset successfully, both analog and digital channels can be deleted with Manual Channel Preset, and those channels can be added back when desired with the same Manual Preset menu. Deleting and Adding only affect which channels are in CH+/- button memory... even "Deleted" channels can still be tuned or used in a Timer program if entered directly with the number buttons. .

These DVDRs add and delete DIGITAL channels as a group, so you can't delete just one subchannel... in fact, the Manual Channel Preset menu allows entry of just the major channel number. However, one benefit of this is that, once you have a digital channel group in memory, any new subchannels added by the broadcaster or cableco are AUTOMATICALLY added and tunable in the normal CH+/- sequence... you don't need a complete rescan like our HDTVs do... unless they add a new digital channel group, and then you can add it with a Manual Channel Preset (of course, you have to know they added that group first! )

Go back to List. ...... Go to main list of help files.

4. WRONG: PBS is only channel mentioned for auto clock setting. . Still wrong. PBS has a time signal but it's almost always WRONG. FOX, CBS & some ABC stations better. pp 28, 32-33,

When the unit is off, Auto-Clock will search the signal coming thru the coax at noon and midnight for ANY channel with a time signal... doesn't have to be PBS. For the 3575/3576 and 2080, that can be ANY analog channel, and for the 2160/2160A/513/515 that can be ANY analog or digital channel. With the Auto Clock > Manual menu, you can set any of the units to search for one SPECIFIC channel, and you can CONFIRM that channel has a good time signal using "The 11:57 Procedure" described here. An Auto Clock > Manual setting prevents an all-channel search and, thereby, reduces the chance of running into a "rogue" signal that can mis-set the time or year or even freeze the machine.

The manual also says this: "If this unit is connected to a cable/satellite box, select the local PBS station on them to set the clock automatically." This DVDR can apparently get a time signal from a cable/sat box ONLY if you connect this DVDR on the coax AFTER the box and MANUALLY set the box to a channel with a good time signal. So, you'd be back to "slave" status as mentioned in item 1 above and a manual process.

Go back to List. ...... Go to main list of help files.

5. WRONG: Unfinalized disc not playable. Still wrong. pg 67

You can PLAY or RW-ERASE unfinalized discs in the same brand of Mag or Philips HDD DVDR that created those discs. With Make Recording Compatible (MRC) turned ON, you can PLAY/RECORD/DUB/RW-ERASE/TITLE DELETE in the same brand or the OTHER brand of Mag/Philips HDD DVDR. With MRC ON, and AFTER a 6-sec manual rec/dub or an RW is Erased, ALL disc ops become available, including:
  1. Finalizing ±R/-RW discs and Unfinalizing -RW discs, as described here. If you want to use a Finalized -RW in the other machine, Unfinalize it first in the machine it was created in.
  2. Deleting the Empty Title/Space on DVD±R discs, as described here.

Go back to List. ...... Go to main list of help files.

6. WRONG: Overwrite can only be done on unfinalized DVD±RW. Still wrong. pg 52
Manual shows Overwrite only applicable to DVD±RW, but it can also be used on unfinalized DVD±R, as in Deleting the Empty Title described here.

Go back to List. ...... Go to main list of help files.

7. OBSCURE: Only one note on important effect of Progressive Scan setting on Mag outputs. Still obscure. pg 15

This note in the manual should be repeated everywhere "Progressive Scan" usage is mentioned in the manual (5 other pages).
First "Connection" page is only place in Mag manual that mentions no output from VIDEO OUT or S-VIDEO OUT jacks when Progressive Scan is ON. Those connection types in any device are NOT designed to handle a Progressive Scan (PS) signal, and these PhilMag DVDRs handle that differently. It's OK to set PS ON in the Philips 3575/3576 since they will send a video signal thru Composite and S-Video outputs... it'll just be auto-converted to interlaced 480i which those connection types CAN handle. On the other hand, the Mags will NOT send ANY signal thru Composite and S-Video outputs with PS ON. Turn it on in those units only if (1) you need to use Component (RGB) connections, (2) you can see a PQ difference between PS on and off, AND (3) you don't need Composite or S-Video output. Leaving PS off allows use of all connections. HDMI has a dedicated "HDMI" button on the remote for selecting and controlling its video formats (480p, 720p, 1080i and 1080p) and an HDMI menu setting for selecting "HDMI Format" (either analog RGB/YPbPr or digital YCbCr).

Go back to List. ...... Go to main list of help files.

8. MISLEADING: "This unit cannot record images with an aspect ratio of 16:9". Still misleading. pg 45

Technically true but users couldn't care less... they just want to know if it can record a 16:9 WS program and display it correctly on their HDTVs. It leaves the user hanging without telling the important part: SDTV DVDRs like ours have to record all content in a 4:3 video frame because the DVD std was based on the old NTSC 4:3 std. And an even more important part is: the DVD std ALSO allows a combo of square/non-square pixels, variable horiz. rez, compression and decompression within that 4:3 frame, which allows your HDTV to stretch that frame into a natural WS image.

Explained another way, Wikipedia says this about "anamorphic" widescreen (a term you'll see here a lot) that explains the 4:3-to-16:9 transition perfectly [with my bracketed edits]:

"... anamorphic format camera lenses [our DVDRs] compress the image horizontally so that it fits a standard [4:3] frame, and anamorphic projection lenses [our HDTVs] restore the image and spread it over the wide screen."

It IS a technical subject, so if you really need more technical details, here's a nice Wikipedia entry on Widescreen where you can read a little about why SDTV DVDRs record all content "as 4:3."

If you're a dimwit like me, all this technical crap probably makes your head hurt!? Even that last Wiki link above has to admit at top: "This article may be confusing or unclear to readers"... duh, ya think!? To make your head feel better, just think like I do: There's some "electronic voodoo" going on in our 4:3 frames that makes digital WS programs look beeeeauuutiful! Just do as I do: let the theorists argue this among themselves while we pragmatists revel in our wonderful widescreen world!

More info on WS related specifically to these DVDRs is here.

Go back to List. ...... Go to main list of help files.

9. HALF-TRUTH: Power backup time is 30 sec (1 hour for 515 & 53x). Both true but only if you don't have Auto Clock ON or set for MANUAL channel. pg 34.

True ONLY IF Auto Clock is set to OFF. When set to AUTO or MANUAL (even if you have no confirmed time signal, see 11:57 Procedure here), 30-sec power backup extends to 2-3 min. and 1-hour extends to at least 2 hours and sometimes an unbelievable time. With a 515, rmacdona got 60 hours! A power loss for MORE than those time periods loses the clock time and all timer rec programs (cuz they're tied to the clock). However, HDD titles, channel memory, and all menu settings remain.

Weird note: During a total power loss here, my 3575's and 2160 maintained all settings, incl. clock and timer rec, for 12 hours! My units had been set for Auto Clock > Manual > FOX analog channel 6 in my cable TV feed for 8 months.

Go back to List. ...... Go to main list of help files.

10. OMITTED: Special Edit/Scene Delete instructions for Front- and End-Cut are undocumented. Still omitted. pp 93-94

The manual describes how to remove a commercial inside a title... a Mid-Cut. However, there are NO instructions for making Front- and End-Cuts, both of which are needed for virtually every title you care about. Those cuts can only be done accurately and reliably by using a specific play-mode button to set Start and End points, as described here.

Go back to List. ...... Go to main list of help files.

11. OMITTED: No warning that a real-time rec or dub to DVD at different rec mode makes that the default mode. Still omitted.

Users need some notation or warning that a real-time record or dub at a rec mode different than their current Default changes their Default to the mode selected for the rec or dub to DVD. This is true for a manual recording, manual timed recording or real-time dub (RTD).

Go back to List. ...... Go to main list of help files.

12. OMITTED: The Reset procedure for "dead" or "frozen" units. Nowhere to be found. Oh wait, it's only in a help file in this thread.

The manual doesn't mention the Soft Reset procedure that can bring "dead" or "frozen" units back to life.

In another forum, a gearhead found a reset button INSIDE his unit and posted that "all anyone has to do is open the case and press that button with the unit plugged in."

That recommendation excites the gearheads among us but is a potential "zap-trap" for the vast majority of your users. Most are ex-VCR jockeys and they're not even CLOSE to "gearhead-level" who can safely play around inside a multi-board DVDR case. People need to know that the simple, non-invasive Soft Reset has brought frozen units back to life, without cracking the case! Funai, PLEASE ,mention the Soft Reset in your manuals and in advice from your Customer Support Reps! Who knows, you might prevent some returns with the story: "I don't know what happened. All of a sudden, all the electronics just melted!"

Go back to List. ...... Go to main list of help files.


Last edited by 7558037; 04-11-2016 at 07:47 AM.
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post #21449 of 27986 Old 09-06-2012, 02:33 AM
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Yea, that's cool. The walmart site says you can pick one up in store as early as 9/12. I'll have to muddle along with my non hdd panny for a while, I just purchased a new set of tower speakers that has broke my 'hobby' budget. I"ll target xmas.

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post #21450 of 27986 Old 09-06-2012, 07:11 AM
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Magnavox 500GB HDD and DVD Recorder with Digital Tuner
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