Magnavox 557, 537, 535, 533, 515, 513, 2160A, 2160, 2080 & Philips 3576, 3575 - Page 877 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #26281 of 27971 Old 02-18-2015, 01:45 PM
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Originally Posted by TBoneit View Post
Agreed, I use NoScript with FireFox.
I was on a photo sharing site yesterday and clicked on a photo to make it larger and various scary things happened. First it tried to open another tab which I believe I have setup to not allow, the tab opened up briefly and then closed. Next it tried to run something to which I said no. I wonder if it was a script and if I had NoScript(I use FF) it would have stopped the whole thing? I have a feeling it was trying to run something malicious and feel I dodged a bullet. Do you know what greaser meant by "These script blockers take some time to learn and must be configured for each website you visit,not only to stop crap from running on your computer,but also to make sure the site you're visiting will work properly." It sounds like running NoScript may block certain things from running, even though I want it to run?
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post #26282 of 27971 Old 02-18-2015, 02:19 PM
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@jjeff ...here's the link for NoScript.You can read about and DL it here...it's a free add-on.....https://noscript.net/ ...then check it out for yourself.

I've been using it for a coupla weeks...i like it even tho it can be a bit of a pain initially because you must configure NoScript for each site you visit.There is a bit of a learning curve,but nothing you can't handle.

PS:Yes there may be things you want to run that noscript will block...that's part of the learning curve i mentioned.You'll have to configure noscript to allow the things you want to run..TO RUN,while blocking everything you don't want to run.....That is usually achieved by trail and error blocking/unblocking of diff.stuff trying to run.
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Last edited by greaser; 02-18-2015 at 02:32 PM.
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post #26283 of 27971 Old 02-18-2015, 05:14 PM
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I've used ABP for many years and probably wouldn't be able to keep my sanity without it. But perhaps more importantly, I have about 20 keywords blocked on my router. Sometimes a link won't work and I then I maybe have to manually transcribe the link into the address bar in order to blot out an embedded reference to an ad site, but there is a TON of stuff I never even see in my browser... stuff that shows up when we go on vacation and use hotel or resort wifi and see all the stuff that ABP can't block but my home router does.

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post #26284 of 27971 Old 02-18-2015, 05:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RobLee View Post
I've used ABP for many years and probably wouldn't be able to keep my sanity without it. But perhaps more importantly, I have about 20 keywords blocked on my router. Sometimes a link won't work and I then I maybe have to manually transcribe the link into the address bar in order to blot out an embedded reference to an ad site, but there is a TON of stuff I never even see in my browser... stuff that shows up when we go on vacation and use hotel or resort wifi and see all the stuff that ABP can't block but my home router does.
I'm gonna throw my 2 cents worth in here. I've used ABP for years and absolutely love it. In addition to ABP, the add-on Ghostery will block pretty much every single obtrusive data gathering tracker there is. Just do a search for it- it's available for Chrome and FF.
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post #26285 of 27971 Old 02-19-2015, 06:13 AM
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Originally Posted by srvctec View Post
I'm gonna throw my 2 cents worth in here. I've used ABP for years and absolutely love it. In addition to ABP, the add-on Ghostery will block pretty much every single obtrusive data gathering tracker there is. Just do a search for it- it's available for Chrome and FF.
Thanks for the tip about Ghostery ....Checked it out this morning,read the tutorial and added it to chrome...will add it to FF when done watching the news....looks like a real useful add-on...heck,anything that stops me from being tracked is useful.Looks like it might be easier to use than NoScript/ScriptBlock but need time to play with it some more.Will be interesting see how it dovetails or overlaps with NoScript/ScriptBlock functions.
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post #26286 of 27971 Old 02-19-2015, 12:27 PM
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Just be aware I have a couple sites that I have never been able to figure out how to set up the blockers so they work. Also a local program that uses the browser for its UI and won't run with the blockers on.

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post #26287 of 27971 Old 02-19-2015, 01:29 PM
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@scott967 ....which browser(s)/blockers do you use??

I use the Chrome FF and Ixquick browsers,and use ABP for FF/Chrome,ScriptBlock for Chrome and NoScript for FF,And just added Ghostery for FF/Chrome.
Most of my frequently visited sites are fairly easy to set up,but the live streaming sites,eg;Foxnews,CNN etc.(no cable/sat) are proving to be quite difficult to run properly w/o temporarily disabling the add-ons.
Am still trying to find a way to configure my various blockers to block what should be blocked w/o blocking the live streams too.
I thought i'd have trouble with the streaming movie sites but surprisingly they proved to be fairly easy.

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post #26288 of 27971 Old 02-19-2015, 01:38 PM
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Why are you guys so paranoid about scripts? Just set them up to prompt, and if you're on a trusted site, let them run.
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post #26289 of 27971 Old 02-19-2015, 02:15 PM
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Originally Posted by mdavej View Post
Why are you guys so paranoid about scripts?
1.Obtrusive and unwanted Ads.
2.Browser hijackers (has happened several times)
3.Don't like being tracked
4.Malware that DL's automatically.

About a year ago i visited a site that spontaneously DL'd a virus which i could not stop.
This virus was so new at the time that almost no anti-virus software program had been updated to include it.The virus was listed as "Extremely dangerous"but i did find it using the Microsoft Malicious Software Removal Tool.Unfortunately it couldn't actually remove the virus.
I ended up having to call a Dell tech,and over a period of 3 nights with 3 8hr.sessions,the tech was finally able to remove every trace of it.
Every trace of the virus had to be removed because it would replicate itself if any piece of it of it was left behind after removal and could've/would've completely destroy my laptop....according to the paper i read after i googled the virus's name.

If i'd have had these add-ons installed at the time,my laptop would probably never have been infected with the virus,and i certainly wouldn't have had my browser hijacked.
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post #26290 of 27971 Old 02-19-2015, 02:29 PM
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I can't remember the last time I saw an ad here, and it isn't because of any browser extension. Nearly all banner ads come in certain sizes that site styles vitrually never use. You can block images in those sizes, and/or "display" them where they aren't visible, with a user stylesheet.

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post #26291 of 27971 Old 02-19-2015, 02:59 PM
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Greaser,

You can avoid all of that without blocking EVERY script. Scripts are what make web pages function.

Adblockers take care of #1
Being careful about what you download and install takes care of #2
A checkbox in Chrome takes care of #3
Avoiding shady websites takes care of #4

We've all been burned at one time or another, but blocking EVERYTHING is not the answer. That's like never driving again if you're in one accident. Sure that guarantees you'll never be in another accident, but it sure has a big negative effect on your quality of life. Likewise, when most of the websites you visit no longer function, what's the point? Read up on "sandbox" mode, and I think you'll have a much better, and safer experience without making your browser completely non-functional.
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post #26292 of 27971 Old 02-19-2015, 03:48 PM
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@mdavej ...
1.Have ABP....does a great job of blocking most Ads.
2.It isn't what i choose to DL that causes problems.It's what DL's automatically w/o warning.
3.You must mean "Do Not Track".Been checked for a long time.Not very effective.
4.Easily said but hard to avoid.if i stayed away from every site that has the potential for DL'ing viruses,worms,trojans etc. or browser hijackers,i'd never go anywhere....i'd be too paranoid.The same as not driving anymore because i had one accident.

I don't try to block every single script,nobody would.Mostly Ads that for some reason ABP doesn't block,trackers and malware.
I try to strike a balance between safety and the usability of whichever site i'm on,which is,i believe,why most people use these blockers.They're good tools.
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post #26293 of 27971 Old 02-20-2015, 11:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by greaser View Post
@scott967 ....which browser(s)/blockers do you use??
I am on FF 35 running Ad Block Plus 2.66 and NoScript 2.69.13. Used to run Ghostery but removed it. Most of the time I can just enable scripts on a page and it works, but some don't show any scripts being blocked and still don't run unless I turn off NoScript entirely. Some bank sites also dump me out if scripts are blocked and you don't get the opportunity to see what scripts are blocked and white-list them.

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post #26294 of 27971 Old 02-20-2015, 12:25 PM
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This is the most activity this thread has had in months and none of it is on topic.
I know, I know -- not much left to say about these boxes.

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post #26295 of 27971 Old 02-20-2015, 12:39 PM
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This is the most activity this thread has had in months and none of it is on topic.
I know, I know -- not much left to say about these boxes.
OK then, if I put AdBlock Plus on my 515 will it automatically skip commercials?
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post #26296 of 27971 Old 02-20-2015, 12:52 PM
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OK then, if I put AdBlock Plus on my 515 will it automatically skip commercials?
Sure would cut down on editing time.
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post #26297 of 27971 Old 02-20-2015, 02:50 PM
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OK then, if I put AdBlock Plus on my 515 will it automatically skip commercials?
Only the ones you get when you are streaming from the Internet.
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post #26298 of 27971 Old 02-20-2015, 10:05 PM
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...I do have 3 of the older HDMI to composite converters referred to, at least one of which came from monoprice.com. Two "died", and were "revived" by overhauling their cheap wall warts by installing all new name-brand capacitors in them.
I have two. Both had their AC Adapters ("wall warts") die, first one, then the other, and each time I replaced the adapter. Both converters continue to work just fine.

Would be nice to know for sure there are others that do the same job, tho', so replacements can be had if needed.
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post #26299 of 27971 Old 02-20-2015, 10:20 PM
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Originally Posted by gastrof View Post
Would be nice to know for sure there are others that do the same job, tho', so replacements can be had if needed.
This one works. Whether it was made with quality caps or not I have no idea. When you replace caps in an original with quality caps, you know if it quits again it isn't likely due to cheap caps.

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post #26300 of 27971 Old 02-21-2015, 01:29 AM
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Originally Posted by chazdole View Post
I have replaced caps in HDTVs, but never wall warts. One of the few things I haven't taken apart. I'll have to correct that. I have had several go bad thru the years, but just assumed the windings burned up, and threw them away. Some have been rather costly to replace.

Are these small caps? Wall warts aren't usually very big.

Recently I have found thrift stores to be a good place to find cheap wal wart power supplies. Lots of old 5V cell phone ones, and occasionally a nice 18.5V 2A one, which will work with many laptops, if you have the correct end to solder onto it.
I've replaced caps in motherboards, power supplies, TVs, monitors, STBs, distribution amps and more, besides these wall warts. The 5V wall wart for these video devices IIRC have 5 caps inside, among which, 8x15 1000uF 10v, 8x11.5 470uF 16V, 5x11 10uF 50V, and 6.3x11 47uF 25V.

I started buying wall warts at Goodwill at least two years ago. Lately the selection has been extremely poor compared to how it was when I started. Last visit or two there I came out with none.

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post #26301 of 27971 Old 02-21-2015, 05:41 PM
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Well, Hi Guys,
I see this thread is drying up. Ad blockers, scripts, etc. I have an ON TOPIC question. I own 3 Philip 3575s and 3 Mag 513s and have just started farming. The question: How in the er... dickens do you get the DATA cable glued to the hard drive OFF?! I thought about a hair dryer, Goop Off (I think that's the name of it), but I worried about melting the cable. I did manage to get one off with my POCKET KNIFE! That was a bit of a challenge and I haven't tested the unit yet to see if I damaged the cable.


So you die hards, someone PLEASE tell me the secret.. Is there a GURU in the house?


BTW Thanks in advance for anyone's help.

Last edited by SoloBeau; 02-24-2015 at 04:28 AM.
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post #26302 of 27971 Old 02-21-2015, 06:11 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by SoloBeau View Post
Well, Hi Guys,
I see this thread is drying up. Ad blockers, scripts, etc. I have an ON TOPIC question. I own 3 Philip 3575s and 3 Mag 513s and have just started farming. The question: How in the er... dickens do you get the HDMI cable glued to the hard drive OFF?! I thought about a hair dryer, Goop Off (I think that's the name of it), but I worried about melting the cable. I did manage to get one off with my POCKET KNIFE! That was a bit of a challenge and I haven't tested the unit yet to see if I damaged the cable.

So you die hards, someone PLEASE tell me the secret.. Is there a GURU in the house?

BTW Thanks in advance for anyone's help.
I searched the procedures posted by our HDD-replacement pioneers and they generally just say, more or less, gently pry the cable from the HDD, which is held on by double-sided tape," like this pioneer's step-by-step procedure.

Other pioneers' stories are listed here.

Others may be able to offer more help.

All my links will work if your AVS Options are set for 30 posts per page, the default.
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post #26303 of 27971 Old 02-21-2015, 06:54 PM
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Hello Wajo, I've read a few of your posts over the years. Kudos for your posts and perseverance. 10 years man! Thanks for your reply.


Well, I just pulled a bit of the bottom off one cable. I went slow but these units are mighty old and the tape is stuck good.


Now I shall to see if I can find a couple of broken units for parts. LOL. I'll wait a bit and see if anyone else pops up with a brainstorm.


Thanks again
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post #26304 of 27971 Old 02-21-2015, 11:22 PM
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Originally Posted by mrmazda View Post
This one works. Whether it was made with quality caps or not I have no idea. When you replace caps in an original with quality caps, you know if it quits again it isn't likely due to cheap caps.
I was talking about the HDMI to composite/s-video converters themselves, not their power supply. 'It'd be nice to know if any of the newer ones do the same job as the ones some of us got a good while back.'

Oh good grief...
That stupid Nissan ad is playing again every time a new page loads here...
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post #26305 of 27971 Old 02-23-2015, 09:14 AM
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I just had something weird happen, and would like to compare notes with you guys.

I had a DVD, home-created using the software AVStoDVD, coded as 16:9.

On the 515 it plays into my 4:3 TV as letterboxed (the 515 is set to "letterbox" under its video settings). (In the other room, it plays off my other 515 as normal widescreen into my HD television.)

I hit "dubbing" while playing the DVD, and naturally it restarted the DVD playback, and began recording the DVD's recording to the hard drive.

Once that was done, I knew what'd happen. Since the 515 can't stamp a recording as widescreen (16:9) I knew it'd play back filling the 4:3 TV screen, with everyone looking tall and thin.

Wrong.

The recording played off the hard drive LETTERBOXED. (Even the restart of the playback once "dubbing" had been pressed showed up as 4:3 fullscreen, with the expected distortion, but not the playback from the hard drive!)

I know if I were to re-burn this to another DVD, it'll likely end up as fullscreen 4:3 and will have the "stretched" distortion, but HOW IS IT STILL CODED AS 16:9 ON THE HARD DRIVE, ON A MACHINE THAT CAN'T CODE THAT WAY?

Anyone got any ideas? Anyone seen the same thing before yourselves?

The only time I've seen this happen is when the tuner is used to record an HD channel off air. Not even off a widescreen cable channel. And yet, here it is, preserving the widescreen coding from a DVD on the hard drive.

Again, anyone else seen anything like this?
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post #26306 of 27971 Old 02-23-2015, 08:06 PM
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Question Do Funai DVD/VCR use same remote codes/conflict with Magnavox MDR series?

Might be given a used Funai-manufactured DVD/VCR combo (either a Funai ZV427FX4 or (Funai) Toshiba-branded DVR620).

Want to use in same location as Magnavox MDR HDD/DVDs. Would anyone know if the remote control codes for these units (with many of the same functions) conflict or overlap with Magnavox 515s, 537s, etc.?

Thanks.
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post #26307 of 27971 Old 02-24-2015, 12:24 AM
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Might be given a used Funai-manufactured DVD/VCR combo (either a Funai ZV427FX4 or (Funai) Toshiba-branded DVR620).

Want to use in same location as Magnavox MDR HDD/DVDs. Would anyone know if the remote control codes for these units (with many of the same functions) conflict or overlap with Magnavox 515s, 537s, etc.?

Thanks.
If memory serves, the Philips remotes didn't interact with the Magnavox machines, even tho' Funai made both.

Maybe any they make under their own name also have a unique set of remote codes, different from the other two?
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post #26308 of 27971 Old 02-24-2015, 04:27 PM
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Thanks for the real-life experience gastrof. It would be great to not need yet another IR-receiver cover. (Would also be great if the Maggys had user selectable remote-code sets to choose from, like the Panasonic "Diga" DVDRs...)

Looks like I might be getting the Funai-branded unit in a few weeks. I'll post the cohabitation results for the Maggy+Funai DVD/VCR in the "remote" case anyone else is interested in that model .
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post #26309 of 27971 Old 02-28-2015, 10:53 AM
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Originally Posted by Rons2 View Post
Our cable company has decided to require us to use DTA. AS you would guess, the recording quality is terrible.

There is a HDMI output on the DTA and I was thinking of getting a HDMI to S-Video converter since there is a S-Video input on the 537 and from there I can go with the HDMI on the DVR to the TV.

What do you think? Will it work? Will I get a better recording quality?

Thanks
=======

I figure I'd update my experience on this.

I purchased the Keedox for no better reason other then it had free shipping.

It came is on Thursday and I promptly installed it and turned on the TV. To my surprise I was getting a 4:3 picture. I doubled checked all my connections and settings and everything looked right. I then decided to view the TV directly through the HDMI output from the DTA.

Still 4:3

Thinking I might be nuts I asked my wife if we were getting 16:9 yesterday. She confirmed that I am nuts but we were getting 16:9 yesterday. I'm not so sure I feel any better...

The SOB cable company changed what they were transmitting!

Anyway, the image from DTA > HDMI > Converter >S-Video > DVR > HDMI > TV degraded. Going direct from the DTA to the TV via coax produced a better image.

Time to cut cable

Last edited by Rons2; 02-28-2015 at 10:57 AM.
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post #26310 of 27971 Old 02-28-2015, 04:47 PM
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RonS:

If your experience is like mine (FiOS), the DTA will output a 4:3 picture. Traditionally, DTAs are meant for people with older 4:3 television sets. Whether that means it'll only tune the Standard Def versions of channels, or it'll letterbox all widescreen channels, I don't know.

I'm surprised it EVER was giving you widescreen output.

Suggestion?

If you know for a fact that DTA was originally giving you a widescreen (not letterboxed) picture, call the cable company, demand to speak to a supervisor in technical, and complain. You know it can handle widescreen. Demand it be put back the way it was.

The only other option for you is do what I did when I found out our DTA couldn't even tune the widescreen channels as letterboxed. (EVERYTHING was coming out cropped to 4:3.)

I told them 'I don't want to lose widescreen; I want a regular cable box'.

In the meantime...

Did the Keedox get rid of any pesky nonsense that would have prevented you from making harddrive recordings that can be burned to DVD? (I mean, that WAS the whole point, right? )
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