Magnavox 557, 537, 535, 533, 515, 513, 2160A, 2160, 2080 & Philips 3576, 3575 - Page 920 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #27571 of 27974 Old 03-21-2017, 08:51 AM
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2080 Machine, DVD drive, on start up will click and clack for long time and them will display error that "Media is unreadable and please eject".

This happens in all cases i.e. No disk, blank disc, Prerecorded movie, etc. So it seems the drive is unable to detect any media or no media.

Opened the unit up, and cleaned the laser lens, the spindle/hub gasket. On viewing the DVD unit on start up, it does spin the disk, start and stop about a dozen time and then fails. All other HD and tuner functionality works. Is it indicative of failure of Laser emitter???

I am curious as how the unit detects if their is media inserted in the drive or it is empty, as currently even when drive is empty it thinks there is an "unreadable disk". I have reset the unit using all possible ways, and it does not change this behavior.

PS: I have many other DVR units, but I am trying to fix it as to understand how the unit works, will appreciate any input, particularly from Master Wajo.

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Last edited by vmalhotra; 03-21-2017 at 02:50 PM. Reason: reset confirmation
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post #27572 of 27974 Old 03-22-2017, 12:19 AM
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Is it indicative of failure of Laser emitter???

Yes, that is exactly what is indicated. The recorder cannot even tell if there is a disk present in the drive or not. The multiple read attempts suggest that the machine is attempting to determine if a disk is present and after a number of tries, it gives up.

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post #27573 of 27974 Old 03-22-2017, 08:07 AM
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Originally Posted by Church AV Guy View Post
Yes, that is exactly what is indicated. The recorder cannot even tell if there is a disk present in the drive or not. The multiple read attempts suggest that the machine is attempting to determine if a disk is present and after a number of tries, it gives up.
Is it safe to remove the cover and check the laser-beam. It points straight up, so viewed from side should be safe, am I right.

If I disconnect the data cable of DVD, will unit operate only using HD? And or it is possible to buy replacement drive unit.

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post #27574 of 27974 Old 03-25-2017, 12:03 AM
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Lightbulb Well, If It Were Me...

Quote:
Originally Posted by vmalhotra View Post
Is it safe to remove the cover and check the laser-beam. It points straight up, so viewed from side should be safe, am I right.

If I disconnect the data cable of DVD, will unit operate only using HD? And or it is possible to buy replacement drive unit.
[THINKING OUT LOUD MODE ON]

Every CD / DVD Reader / Writer that I've ever owned had some sort of 'Protection' for the user. i.e. portable CD players wouldn't even attempt to read a CD if the cover / interlock was open.

Even if the Magnavox, of which I personally own 6 but never opened (or had reason to open) any, doesn't have any 'Protection', you're correct in that the laser (a very narrow beam) is pointing straight up and thus you could hold a digital camera over it to see if there's any output. (I'm basing this on the methodology for checking the output of an IR transmitter - as I said, just "Thinking Out Loud" since no one else replied. :bulb: :thinking:

[THINKING OUT LOUD MODE OFF]

Good Luck!

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post #27575 of 27974 Old 03-26-2017, 12:24 PM
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We bought a brand new Magnavox MDR513H/F7 HDD / DVD recorder back in 2011.

It has worked great over the years, but we are starting to have issues with it and decided to do some research.

While researching, I found that the back of my unit shows E2S01UD, but the firmware displays E2S00UD.

In addition, the combination of model (E2S00UD) and BE firmware (HD6A26972AH1E) that appears on the screen do not seem to be a valid combination (according to an earlier post in this thread).

Anybody ever seen anything like this before?
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post #27576 of 27974 Old 03-26-2017, 01:14 PM - Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by YHWH_777 View Post
We bought a brand new Magnavox MDR513H/F7 HDD / DVD recorder back in 2011.

It has worked great over the years, but we are starting to have issues with it and decided to do some research.

While researching, I found that the back of my unit shows E2S01UD, but the firmware displays E2S00UD.

In addition, the combination of model (E2S00UD) and BE firmware (HD6A26972AH1E) that appears on the screen do not seem to be a valid combination (according to an earlier post in this thread).

Anybody ever seen anything like this before?
A known combo for the unusual history of the 513. You appear to have an "Orig. Late-513" model with the unchanged FW from the "Orig. early-513 model," as described in the first two sections of the help file here. Details repeated below:


513's may have EITHER ONE of the "Early" or "Late" Model #s shown below on their back-left sticker... most likely as a result of a transition in production lots.


Orig. Early-513 OEM FW - Apr-Jun 2010

Model: E2S00UD
DTV-S: 0x2A
FE: R60_001_000*
BE: HD6A269718H1E**
TT: [email protected]*

*Same as 2160A.
**Same as 2160A with Oct 2010 FW Update.


Orig. Late-513 OEM FW - Jul-on 2010
Also released by Funai as a User Update for early-513's.

Model: E2S01UD
DTV-S: 0x2A
FE: R60_001_000
BE: HD6A26972AH1E
TT: [email protected]


Oddball OEM FW for 513 - Mysterious FW Found in Several NEW/REFURB 513 - Various Mfg Dates

Model: E2S00UD*
DTV-S: 0x2B
FE: R60_001_000
BE: HD6A269726H*1E or 726V*
TT: [email protected]

*There may be some of these "oddball" 513's with Model Name E2S01UD and BE FW 726V?.
Some 726H/V FW could lack the pre-titling of timer rec programs and program Skip features that SuperFW 727V has?


1st FW Update for ALL 513's (& 4th Update for 2160A) - 10/5/11

Model: E2S00UD or E2S01UD
DTV-S: 0x2A or Ox2B
FE: R60_001_000
BE: HD6A269727H1E
TT: [email protected]

Click here for the 727H (and SuperFW 727V) FW download file and instructions. Save ZIP file forever for possible future use, like FW corruption or reverting to this FW after a future User Update that you don't like.

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post #27577 of 27974 Old 04-15-2017, 08:52 AM
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I've been having some issues with my 2160A.

Sometimes playback hangs for 5-45 seconds, no changes in the seconds on the display, then it resumes.

A few times, I have recorded OTA and ended up with 55-58 minutes of a 60 minute show, with 1-3 abrupt
scene changes, obviously something is missing at those points.

A couple of SYSTEM ERROR POWER OFF messages.

It seems like the first two might be hard drive issues, not sure about the last one.

I have started marking these titles as DO NOT DELETE, in case there are bad spots on the drive.

Any ideas?

Thanks
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post #27578 of 27974 Old 04-15-2017, 09:00 AM - Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blgaarder View Post
I've been having some issues with my 2160A.

Sometimes playback hangs for 5-45 seconds, no changes in the seconds on the display, then it resumes.

A few times, I have recorded OTA and ended up with 55-58 minutes of a 60 minute show, with 1-3 abrupt
scene changes, obviously something is missing at those points.

A couple of SYSTEM ERROR POWER OFF messages.

It seems like the first two might be hard drive issues, not sure about the last one.

I have started marking these titles as DO NOT DELETE, in case there are bad spots on the drive.

Any ideas?
If you are able to delete all titles at some point in time, here's some advice that might help (from my help file):

We don't have a CHKDSK or other computer-like utility that we can invoke to read an entire disc w/o losing access to recorded titles. The best we can do is fill the HDD up with recordings to make sure we've "used" every bit.

To see if there are any adverse effects of this, I've been letting the HDD in my refurb'd 3575 with a "bad" HDD fill up with recorded titles and, when the HDD fills up, it just stops recording and won't record any more. This 3575 was always slow to start up, noisy, froze on playback of first three titles, wouldn't Initialize with Skip 079, failed Skip 013, etc. After several fill-ups, it now plays the first three titles and Initializes normally, so I think filling-er-up once in awhile is a good thing all around!

DanHuff tried my "fill-er-up" procedure to fix his "problematic" HDD... read all 6 posts to get the entire story of things he tried.

IMO, some people who don't do a lot of editing will benefit from letting their HDD get full yearly or every other year to keep all the bits active. You can do this slowly or quickly, as follows.

Slowly, During Normal Recording Season: Record your normal shows at 1-hr-HQ rec mode. Change all your timer rec programs to HQ and record as many shows as possible, watching oldest shows first (as usual) and Protecting them after watching to identify them as "watched" (with the lock icon), then Unprotecting and Deleting them at an appropriate time.

Quickly, During Summer Doldrums: Set one or more 12-hour timers (11:59:59) at HQ rec mode and fill up all remaining free space on your HDD with "anything" in the summer, then delete them all at once with one command. You can run these 12-hour sessions at night, while you're asleep! Even with a completely empty HDD, the number of "12-hr titles" needed at HQ to sufficiently "fill" a disk would be approx. (subtract existing title lengths from these):

GB. . # Titles. . Plus
160. . . 2. . . . 9 hrs
320. . . 5. . . . 0 hrs
500. . . 8. . . . 4 hrs
1000. 17. . . . 4 hrs

Either way, after you fill a disc, use either the Title List > Delete Multiple Titles command or the HDD Menu > Delete All Titles command, depending on whether you must preserve any titles or not.

Remember, this is only a once-a-year or every 2-year PITA, and it can be done in the summer, not during prime season!

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post #27579 of 27974 Old 05-05-2017, 07:01 PM
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Originally Posted by mrmazda View Post
One of my two 513s does not like being off. After it has been, its picture has an interference pattern in it that goes away only after warmup of several minutes. It's annoying when I'm not around to prevent a timer record ending from turning it off. I'd keep it on always but for the timer behavior.
This 513, manufactured May 2011, which I purchased as a refurb, while in use around 3 hours ago, powered itself down dead. I took its cover off and immediately spotted the failure: 3 bulged 10mm X 20mm ENERCON brand type GS 3300uF 6.3V 85° capacitors on the PS board, C2203, C2205 & C2216. All other caps on the PS board are Su'scon brand. I replaced the three with Panasonic type FR 105°, and my 513 is now back in normal operation.

Update:
I checked my #2 2160A, manufactured December 2009, which is still working normally. Its PS has mostly Su'scon caps, but C2210 is an 8mmX12mm Enercon GS 470uF 16V 85°, and C2207 is an 8mmX12mm Enercon GS 1000uF 6.3V 85°. The mainboard has mostly Su'scons, but also several 5mmx11mm Enercons that I can see without disassembly. I plan to take a look inside my other 513 and my 515, and replace any Enercons or other dubious brands I find on the PS board.

Update 2:
Sunday I opened up my April 2011 513 and my April 2011 515. Their PS boards have Enercon GS at up to 6 locations each, but not at C2203, C2205 or C2210 as had been bad in my May 2011 513. 8x12 Enercon GS 1000uF 6.3V 85° were on both at C2207 on PS board, and 5 locations on the main board. On the 515 mainboard, the 1000/6.3 at C1419 (closest to the S-VHS output) is swollen. Enercons are used on 19 other locations that I could see without disassembling on the 515. I'm going to buy all I need before trying to replace any on the 515. The other 513 I will leave as is until such time as some failure becomes apparent. My 515 refuses to write DVD+RW discs written by other Mags, and vice versa. I'm hopeful, but skeptical because of the C1419 location, that replacing its Enercons it will be fruitful.

Update 3:
I spent 10 or 11 hours yesterday replacing caps in my 515, 36 in all, 9 on power supply, balance on mainboard. 33 of the 36 were Enercon GS. The three 3300 uf 6.3v Su'scons on the power supply I replaced based upon recommendation on badcaps.net to use only 105° rated caps in power supplies of digital electronics, and the fact that all three in their positions in my #2 513 failed. The two largest on the power supply I kept in place, HEC LS 22x35mm 470uF 200V @C2104, Su'scon SL 12x25mm 2200uF 25V @C22 04. Many 5x11 and most 4x7 caps on the mainboard I kept, roughly half of which are Enercons, the balance Su'scons. All Enercon 5x11s kept were 100uf 6.3V, a type which I failed to inventory before ordering caps, and I had no suitable replacements on hand.

All replacements I used were Panasonic or Nichicon brand, most Panasonic and type FR. Other than one 0.33uF 50V, I replaced none with uF less than 10.

The DVD+RW write behavior in the 515 may have been improved, but more testing will be required to confirm. The first DVD+RW I tried to dub, record or erase, which was last written to by it, and more than 3 years ago, a Sony, caused the 515 to error. I moved that DVD to #2 513 and erased it successfully. Then I put it back into the 515 and was able to dub successfully and play in both 2160A and 513 but not play in Pioneer 460. Then I tried protecting the dub and playing in the Pioneer, but again it refused. Next I unprotected and dubbed again in the 515, and played it back in another Funai.

All post-recap HDD functionality remains as expected. I do not recommend attempting to recap the mainboard as a preventive measure, as it is a very tedious process, and the board has many sensitive pads that are easy to break by removing old caps. The OEM installation process bent the legs over before soldering, which makes it very difficult to remove enough old solder to completely release the leg. Attempting to break the remaining solder broke the pads completely off the board in three cases, two for a single cap, and partially in several others. I had to patch with wire as a workaround, and use dabs of glue to lock the replacements down solidly. Another difficulty is the ATA cable attachments to the daughterboard. They seem to be intended to be one-time use connections, fragile, difficult to get the ribbon out of without breaking the retainer, and difficult to reconnect with a broken retainer. Power supply recapping by comparison is massively easier.

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Last edited by mrmazda; 05-29-2017 at 10:09 PM. Reason: 515 post-recap update
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post #27580 of 27974 Old 05-10-2017, 08:48 AM
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Can I ask where you purchased the parts? Thanks.
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post #27581 of 27974 Old 05-10-2017, 11:11 AM
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Can I ask where you purchased the parts? Thanks.
I used what I already had on hand:
http://www.mouser.com/Search/Product...7-EEU-FR0J332L
The first two in this list are equivalent.

All the above are physically taller than the originals, but more durable than these, which are all 10mmX20mm like the originals.

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post #27582 of 27974 Old 05-16-2017, 05:57 PM
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Thunder storm knocked out 2 of my H2160As

Heard a very loud boom followed by a power outage around 2 AM last night.


Today, 2 of my 3 H2160As are lifeless. The 3rd is fine.


I unplugged them for over 2 hours and replugged. No help.


Then I found Wojo's "Soft Reset" post. It kinda worked on one, but didn't work at all on the 2nd. #1 came to life after the soft reset. But it does not send any signal to the TV thru the HDMI cable. The TV screen says no signal. #2 did not show any sign of life after the Soft Reset.


I would appreciate any help you can give me on getting 2160 #1 and #2 working properly.


I have a question on the "Hard Reset" procedure. I am not sure if I should press the four buttons ; skip, 1, 2, 3 all at the same time, or press one button after the other, or press skip while I press 1 then 2 then 3.
And I am not sure what "at FW Versions screen" means. I am at a disadvantage here bc I am not getting any signal to my TV screen.


Thanks a lot in advance.


Jer01
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post #27583 of 27974 Old 05-17-2017, 09:30 AM
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skip, followed with 1, 2 & 3 in quick succession, one key at a time (all within 3 seconds, if I remember correctly).

Yes, my one of the machines got hit with surge and DVD is kaput.
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post #27584 of 27974 Old 05-17-2017, 11:48 AM
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Thanks vmalhotra,


I did the Soft Reset in the method you described followed by hitting Enter about 2 seconds later -- on 2160A #1. I could not see anything on my TV screen; but I could see some things happening on the 2160 display. I'm pretty sure the Hard Reset was enacted.


Before Hard reset:


when off, the time was displaying to the current time.
When on, It looked like it was tuning channels properly, and advance them with ............the + - channel button. What I saw on the 2160 display looked normal. Again, nothing was showing on my TV screen. I tried this on all 3 HDMI ports on my TV and got the same result on all 3.


Does this make sense? Could the 2160 appear to functioning properly, BUT NOT sending a signal to the TV thru the HDMI cable????


After the Hard Reset:


When off , I could on longer see the time on the unit display, but just the dots . dashes.


When on, it did not look like it was tuning channels I entered. For ex, when I entered 56, instead showing 56.1 on the display, it showed " CH 56". When I tried to advance the Channel, it showed "CH 57".


Moving on to 2160A <a href="https://www.avsforum.com/forum/usertag.php?do=list&action=hash&hash=2%3A" target="_blank">#2 :


This is the one that was totally dead after the Soft Reset.. I let it set overnight unplugged. I tried the Soft reset again this AM and still no response.
I cant try the Hard reset on #2 bc it is dead.


If any of you have any experience with power surges on these Mags, I would appreciate it very much if you would share it with me. Positive or negative. If there is hope, I would like to try to revive them.
If it is likely that these are trash, I would like to know that so I can move on.

Thanks,


Jer01

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post #27585 of 27974 Old 05-17-2017, 01:16 PM
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If any of you have any experience with power surges on these Mags, I would appreciate it very much if you would share it with me. Positive or negative. If there is hope, I would like to try to revive them.
I don't have first hand experience with power surges as you describe, as all 5 of my Mags are connected to UPS units designed for computers, which work much better than ordinary surge suppressors. I do have vicarious experience through having read here for many years. We have had a fearless leader here named Wajo, who has maintained a help index via updates to the first post in this thread, and has very often provided answers to those asking for help as you have. It seems Wajo must have recently changed his handle to 7558037, as the handle Wajo seems to have disappeared from this site. There is a reset button on the inside of these Mags, but this name change and other reasons seem to have made it impossible for me to locate instructions for using it either in the index or otherwise. Maybe you can find them and apply them to both of your 2160As.

I very recently determined that this whole model line as been built using more than one brand of aluminum electrolytic capacitors, one of which, Enercon, came to light as having a poor reliability record. This discovery was a consequence of my #2 513 going stone dead without having experienced any power surge. I recently wrote here of my repair experience. Additionally, the type of caps selected for the PS design was called into question when I reported my 513 experience on Badcaps.net.

The same or a similar repair may be applicable to either or both of your 2160As. To find out, take the top cover off, and visually search for bad caps (Two screws on the sides, 5 in the rear, pull rearward and upward to lift cover off). Badcaps.net generically shows examples to look for, how to perform self-repair, and how to find someone to perform a professional repair. Overclockers has the article that explains the start of the bad cap plague that had been going on for several years about the time this Funai model line was originally designed.

Your cause of death cap(s) would most likely be on the board to the rear of the DVD drive to which the main power cable is connected. Any caps you find swollen or leaking can be a cause of death. A power surge can cause a marginal cap to cease to be useful.
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post #27586 of 27974 Old 05-17-2017, 01:17 PM
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Jer,

Have you tried using component or composite connectors, to diagnose further.

Also sent you a PM,

vm
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post #27587 of 27974 Old 05-18-2017, 08:43 AM
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Jer,

Have you tried using component or composite connectors, to diagnose further

vm

vm,


No I haven't. That's on my list of things to try on #1.


I'm kinda in a semi panic mode here. I lost my main -- 47" Smart TV -- at the same time. I watch /record a LOT of TV programs. And here we are at the time of the year when all the Finale's are upon us. Bad time for this to happen.


Jer
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post #27588 of 27974 Old 05-18-2017, 09:11 AM
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Hi mrmazda,


Thanks for all the good info. I will take one of the 2160's apart and see what I can find. The reset button on the main board sounds easy enough.


The capacitor replacement was made to sound pretty difficult, unless you know what you are doing and have the proper tools, on one of those links you gave me. And I think I read that the average life of a capacitor was 6 years? On a 2160, that would mean I would be having lots of problems upcoming on my Jun 2009 2160's.


You sound like you are very comfortable with replacing capacitors. I have never tried it and don't really have the proper tools. I do have a soldering iron and a dentist pic.


I took your advice and searched for some more info on this. I found:


https://www.avsforum.com/forum/106-dv...x-mdr515h.html


There were two people who had a similar problem as mine and replaced capacitors. One person replaced 3 caps himself and it did not fix the problem. A second person had the caps replaced professionally and it fixed the problem.


I did not have my mags/ 47" tv plugged into a UPS unit; but I did have them plugged into fairly good quality surge protectors [$35 -50 variety]. They are signaling that they are functioning properly. Maybe you could recommend a UPS unit to me. Do the batteries need to be replaced at times?


Thanks again. I will let you know what I find.


Jer

PS: I think wajo is lurking in the background here. He is the best.

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post #27589 of 27974 Old 05-18-2017, 11:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JER01 View Post
vm,


No I haven't. That's on my list of things to try on #1.


I'm kinda in a semi panic mode here. I lost my main -- 47" Smart TV -- at the same time. I watch /record a LOT of TV programs. And here we are at the time of the year when all the Finale's are upon us. Bad time for this to happen.
Have you cycled through the HDMI outputs via the remote HDMI key? I know I have had similar symptoms (no apparent HDMI out from 2160A) and that fixed it. If it doesn't, then agree try component outputs.

scott s.
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post #27590 of 27974 Old 05-18-2017, 01:19 PM
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Originally Posted by JER01 View Post
The reset button on the main board sounds easy enough.
The reason for looking for instructions is about when to use it, whether with power cable plugged or not, or whether to hold the power switch at the same time.

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...on one of those links you gave me. And I think I read that the average life of a capacitor was 6 years? On a 2160, that would mean I would be having lots of problems upcoming on my Jun 2009 2160's.
IIRC, the published life expectancy is from using the cap under full load. Installed caps rarely are exposed to full load. Their predicted lives grow exponentially as load and heat are reduced from maximum. Many devices made decades ago with this type of cap are still operational.

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You sound like you are very comfortable with replacing capacitors. I have never tried it and don't really have the proper tools. I do have a soldering iron and a dentist pic.
Needle nose pliers, fingers, phillips screwdriver and soldering implements are all the tools required. The PS board is slightly tricky to remove because the HDMI board needs to be disconnected from its mounts in order to get the power ribbon on and off of the main board, required to remove the PS board. Other than that, replacing caps on the PS board is quite straightforward.

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I took your advice and searched for some more info on this. I found:

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/106-dv...x-mdr515h.html
I read and commented there to link here.

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There were two people who had a similar problem as mine and replaced capacitors. One person replaced 3 caps himself and it did not fix the problem. A second person had the caps replaced professionally and it fixed the problem.
The failure could be because caps that didn't look bad were bad or because the power surge damaged other components, or because one or more replacements were installed backwards.

The Enercon GS caps used in our Mags seem to have been poor quality. It's possible the one that wasn't fixed had other caps that didn't look bad that were electrically damaged by the power surge or that simply hadn't yet manifested failure visually. There are Enercon GS caps on the mainboard too, one of which is obviously bad in my 515. Replacment is on order, due here tomorrow or Saturday.

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I did not have my mags/ 47" tv plugged into a UPS unit; but I did have them plugged into fairly good quality surge protectors [$35 -50 variety]. They are signaling that they are functioning properly. Maybe you could recommend a UPS unit to me. Do the batteries need to be replaced at times?
There are too many different brands, capacities and types to think about making any specific recommendation. What you need depends on what you connect to it and how long you want batteries to keep your system working while the power is out. There should be some kind of FAQ or howto here in avsforum or elsewhere to provide selection guidance. All I've ever been exposed to use SLA batteries that can last anywhere from a year to upwards of 5 years.
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post #27591 of 27974 Old 05-18-2017, 01:53 PM
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Originally Posted by scott967 View Post
Have you cycled through the HDMI outputs via the remote HDMI key? I know I have had similar symptoms (no apparent HDMI out from 2160A) and that fixed it. If it doesn't, then agree try component outputs.

scott s.
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Hi scott,


Thanks for the input. I believe you are referring to the HDMI button on the 2160 remote that changes the picture quality from 1080, 720, 480, etc. I just tried that with 2160 # 1 , on 2 different TVs and it did not make any difference. All I see is a blue screen with black box with the words " No Signal" in it. This also rules out the possibility of a bad HDMI cable bc I used a different cable. But does not rule out the possibility of a bad HDMI connector on the 2160. I can't believe a power surge would make the HDMI connector go bad.


Thanks again for sharing your experience.


Jer
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post #27592 of 27974 Old 05-18-2017, 02:12 PM
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Originally Posted by JER01 View Post
I can't believe a power surge would make the HDMI connector go bad.
HDMI connectors don't need an apparent reason to quit. One on my Vizio TV quit even though on a UPS and with no power surge. The repair required a board replacement that "upgraded" the firmware to a version with no TV guide. I have a third of the same model satellite receiver with a dead HDMI out. All have been on the same UPS as 20+ other electronic devices. The first two were replaced under warranty because HDMI their outputs quit.
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post #27593 of 27974 Old 05-18-2017, 05:18 PM
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Originally Posted by vmalhotra View Post
Jer,

Have you tried using component or composite connectors, to diagnose further.

vm

Well -- GOOD NEWS this time. I hooked up 2160 # 1 [ looked like it was working - but no signal to TV ] using component connectors and IT IS WORKING!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


THANK YOU vm for your suggestion. Many thanks to all of you who shared your experiences and knowledge with me. And special thanks wajo for all the work you have put in over the years, making this valuable resource available to people like me who need help.


I'm back up to 2 working 2160's and my life is starting to work its way back to normal.


--------------------------------------------------------------


But this is NOT OVER YET.


I still have a 2160 that is totally DEAD.


I will take that apart tomorrow and see what it shows.


Jer

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post #27594 of 27974 Old 05-18-2017, 05:29 PM
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Originally Posted by mrmazda View Post
HDMI connectors don't need an apparent reason to quit. One on my Vizio TV quit even though on a UPS and with no power surge. The repair required a board replacement that "upgraded" the firmware to a version with no TV guide. I have a third of the same model satellite receiver with a dead HDMI out. All have been on the same UPS as 20+ other electronic devices. The first two were replaced under warranty because HDMI their outputs quit.


Right again mrmazda. Here is another example to add to your list. Do you think I would find a bad cap in the HDMI out circuit if I took this one apart?


By the way, it is a Vizio 47" smart TV that I lost with my two 2160's.


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post #27595 of 27974 Old 05-18-2017, 06:25 PM
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Originally Posted by JER01 View Post
Do you think I would find a bad cap in the HDMI out circuit if I took this one apart?

By the way, it is a Vizio 47" smart TV that I lost with my two 2160's.
Where, in the Vizio? The 2160? My Vizio required the whole board with the HDMI sockets on it be replaced to restore life to all HDMI ports. My Vizio gave trouble more than once. I had to replace several caps in it to resurrect it at the time.

I don't remember seeing any electrolytic caps on the HDMI port's board in the Mags, or if there were any, they were small sizes which are typically more reliable but that generally fail without visible evidence if they do fail. But, that's no reason to think a bad cap somewhere isn't at fault with the 2160's HDMI output, as many Enercons as it has scattered about inside. Don't speculate. The cover is easy enough off and on, so look. If you see any that look bad, plan and act accordingly.
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post #27596 of 27974 Old 05-19-2017, 08:09 AM
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Originally Posted by JER01 View Post
Well -- GOOD NEWS this time. I hooked up 2160 # 1 [ looked like it was working - but no signal to TV ] using component connectors and IT IS WORKING!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


THANK YOU vm for your suggestion. Many thanks to all of you who shared your experiences and knowledge with me. And special thanks wajo for all the work you have put in over the years, making this valuable resource available to people like me who need help.


I'm back up to 2 working 2160's and my life is starting to work its way back to normal.



--------------------------------------------------------------


But this is NOT OVER YET.


I still have a 2160 that is totally DEAD.


I will take that apart tomorrow and see what it shows.


Jer
Now that you are getting output on component, test HDMI output again, and also test HDMI on some other device.

Other 2160, if you open the case, try reset button on the mother board.
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post #27597 of 27974 Old 05-19-2017, 03:14 PM
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Originally Posted by mrmazda View Post
The reason for looking for instructions is about when to use it, whether with power cable plugged or not, or whether to hold the power switch at the same time


I found the answer to these questions here:


https://www.avsforum.com/forum/106-dv...h-f7-died.html


at the bottom of the page.


"" I just had my 515 fail after a power outage. Symptom is that there is no time or any display on the front panel and the unit will not respond, even after leaving it unplugged for an extended period and then holding the front panel power button while plugging back in. Just looks completely dead.

I Googled this problem and found a solution on the Fixya site that said that there is a push button switch on the circuit board inside the 515 (and 513) marked "RESET" and that after pushing it the unit will function normally again. Since my 515 is over 6 months old and labor is no longer covered by warranty, I popped the top cover and looked for the switch. I found it on the main circuit board in between the DVD drive and the HDD, pressed it, plugged it back in, and OMG it is ALIVE again!!!

The push button has a square base and the button is a silver cylinder sticking straight up from the base. At first glance I did not think it was a switch. The word "RESET" is printed on the circuit board to the right of the switch.

If you have nothing to lose and a phillips screw driver this is easy to do and worth a shot before paying for service. Breaking the seal tape on the back of the unit will void your warranty, so that could be a consideration but numerous people said that this worked for them after the unit failed to respond after a power outage and it also worked for me. "" by Mike


So it worked for Mike by simply removing the 2160 cover and pushing the reset button. Then pugging the unit back in.


Well I tried that and it DID NOT WORK for me. I tried the other option also.


I waited 30 minutes with the power cord unplugged. I then pushed the reset button and held it down while I plugged the unit back in. That DID NOT WORK either.


I looked at the caps very carefully with a magnifying glass.. None of them are swollen or leaking. Some have a mottled appearance on the top surface - especially those in the area of the power cord. Bot not from leaking.


I took some pictures in case any of you would like to see what's under the hood. I would appreciate any feedback any of you might have.
OOOOps It rejected all of them. They are all too large a file size -- 977 kb max -- mine are around 2.5 to 3 mb.


By the way, finding the Reset Button was not easy for me. It is small and inconspicuous and the lettering is not on top -- it is on the board and is very small and light. I might not have been able to find it with my aging eyes, without the explicit directions form Mike.


There is a fuse very near the power cord. At first, I got very excited by this -- but the fuse showed 0 ohms across the ends.


I wish I could publish the pics -- especially the mottled ones near the power cord to see if your experienced eye thought they might be bad. Many of them show some mottling -- so it would be difficult choosing which ones to target.


Jer

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post #27598 of 27974 Old 05-19-2017, 03:29 PM
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Originally Posted by vmalhotra View Post
Now that you are getting output on component, test HDMI output again, and also test HDMI on some other device.

I did try 2160 #2 with a HDMI cable after it worked with the component. It did not work with HDMI. I did not try it on the original TV it was connected to when it was damaged. I moved it and tried it on a different TV and different HDMI cable -- the one where the 3rd 2160 -- that was not damaged - was working. I did not try it with the original HDMI cable.


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Originally Posted by vmalhotra View Post
Other 2160, if you open the case, try reset button on the mother board.


Yeah, I did -- thanks -- see my other recent post.


Jer

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post #27599 of 27974 Old 05-19-2017, 04:34 PM
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I wish I could publish the pics -- especially the mottled ones near the power cord to see if your experienced eye thought they might be bad. Many of them show some mottling -- so it would be difficult choosing which ones to target.
Pictures can be made smaller either by reconfiguring the camera before shooting, or by resizing those already taken with any of many different image manipulation programs, such as Irfanview, GIMP, Photoshop or whatever was on the media that came with your digital camera. We need to see what you mean by mottled. Note too that lack of swelling or leakage is no guarantee the surge produced no hidden damage. A weak or failing cap can easily be reduced to useless via electrical overload.

Also, make a list of the brand names you see on each along with each's 5-character position stenciled adjacently on the board. The more Enercons you find, the more likely cap replacement could be a solution. Skip the little ones C2201, C2206, C2214 if you want. The name on the one under the DVD drive you might not be able to see.
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post #27600 of 27974 Old 05-19-2017, 06:41 PM
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Pictures can be made smaller either by reconfiguring the camera before shooting, or by resizing those already taken with any of many different image manipulation programs, such as Irfanview, GIMP, Photoshop or whatever was on the media that came with your digital camera. We need to see what you mean by mottled. Note too that lack of swelling or leakage is no guarantee the surge produced no hidden damage. A weak or failing cap can easily be reduced to useless via electrical overload.

Also, make a list of the brand names you see on each along with each's 5-character position stenciled adjacently on the board. The more Enercons you find, the more likely cap replacement could be a solution. Skip the little ones C2201, C2206, C2214 if you want. The name on the one under the DVD drive you might not be able to see.

These old eyes may not be up to doing what you asked for unless I tear the whole thing apart first. Looking at an angle with the glare, it is very difficult for me to read.


But at a quick look:


They are almost all a bluish purple [ maybe all] and I think I see: Su'scon on the side. Even the biggest one near the power cord looks like this. Plus a couple medium size ones in the area. The ones near the power cord have the heaviest mottling.


The tops of new caps have a uniform fairly shiny surface. By mottling, I mean that shiny surface is no longer uniform -- parts of it have turned into an oxidized non uniform looking surface. So a mix of shiny and various shades of oxidized. But NOT starting at the edge of the cap top.


There's a few under the HDMI circuit board that look the same purple color as the exposed ones. But they are pretty small. There are not any hidden by the DVD drive as far as I can tell.


Here is a PRELIMINARY list of caps in the power circuit:


C2223, CC2204 [ the largest], C2206, C2205, C2216, C2201, C2207, C2204, and further on the side C 2210. I am not seeing the method to the madness here. No correlation between the size and the number?? I am assuming D is for diode, R is for resistor??


I will get into this more tomorrow.


Thanks for your help on this mrm


Jer
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