Magnavox 557, 537, 535, 533, 515, 513, 2160A, 2160, 2080 & Philips 3576, 3575 - Page 933 - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
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post #27961 of 27986 Old 06-09-2019, 04:28 PM
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Originally Posted by jjeff View Post
I've had real good luck with a Grex, off Amazon and while I don't use it on a cable STB I have used it to copy DVDs and even Blue Ray discs to my DVDRs. I believe the old MV removers were simply analog devices that just removed MV, the Grex is supposed to be digital and again seems to remove the digital CP used on DVDs and BDs. Note I've also had good luck with my Sima CT2's to remove digital CP but they are no longer made.
Kind of a funny looking thing, looks like some sort of medical device but sure seems to work good and isn't priced too bad IMO.
https://www.amazon.com/XDIMAX-GREX-7...s%2C164&sr=8-2
Thanks. My cable provider must have done something new. Heck, I get a lot of recordings now with the little disc icon with a line through it. The Grex is a bit pricey, but might be worth a try.
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post #27962 of 27986 Old 06-09-2019, 09:47 PM
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Weird. I replied. The thread shows I replied. The post isn't here.
To try again, thanks jjeff. The Grex is a bit pricey, so I might hold off on that.
I have also in the past 6 months gotten a lot of the disc icon with a slash through it on recordings. Whatever my cableco is doing, they definitely know what screws with these DVRs.
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post #27963 of 27986 Old 06-10-2019, 03:51 AM
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Weird. I replied. The thread shows I replied. The post isn't here.
Your post is there. Try going to your User CP, click Edit Options in the left column then change the posts per page to 100.
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post #27964 of 27986 Old 06-10-2019, 08:12 AM
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I was stuck too. I just added this post and it did something since I was able to get to this page. The post count is messed up too.
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post #27965 of 27986 Old 06-10-2019, 04:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Ken.F View Post
Your post is there. Try going to your User CP, click Edit Options in the left column then change the posts per page to 100.
Early this morning I could see you had made a post to this thread, it was the most recent one but when I went into this thread to look at it, my post was the last one
Seeing everyone's posts now
DoctorM, I haven't found anything the Grex hasn't let me copy to my DVDRs but I'd imagine since you'd probably be purchasing it off Amazon if it didn't work you should always be able to return it
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post #27966 of 27986 Old 06-11-2019, 02:02 PM
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Red face Magnavox MDR535H HDMI function does not work no signal being sent from the MDR535H

Hello,
Is there possibly an answer to this problem: I purchased a Magnavox MDR535H new, when it first came out. I've always used only the component terminal connections to connect it to my Panasonic Viera plasma TV (2011 model.) I recently thought I'd try out the HDMI connection to see if it produced a better picture than the component connection. I was not able to get any signal to output from the HDMI connection to the Panasonic TV.
I did try a reset by shutting off both the TV and the MDR535H, - unplugging them from AC power, connecting and reconnecting HDMI cables etc.
There is no functionality at all in any of the MDR535H HDMI settings, adjustments etc. There is no signal output at all from the HDMI connection to the TV. The TV just displays: "No Signal"
This is always the status of the machine:
The MDR535H menus can only be read on the TV's screen by selecting the - also connected - MDR535H component output connection. There is no signal at all being received when TV's input is set to the connected HDMI output of the MDR535H.
In the MDR535H HDMI setup menu, the following setup options are grayed -out and non functioning: 1. Format, 2. HDMI Audio, 3. RGB Range.
The #4 "fun link" (HDMI CEC) is active, and "on or off" can be selected. I tried both options but neither made any difference in trying to get an HDMI signal output from the MDR535H.
The HDMI button on the remote does nothing when pressed. Nothing is changed or displayed on the MDR535H display window or the TV.
Again, there is never a signal output when using the HDMI connection on the TV - Nothing appears - not even a Magnavox screen saver etc. And there is no sound either.
Yes, I do know from testing the HDMI input on the Panasonic TV that it is "on". - and it is set to auto detect. The connected TV's HDMI input works perfectly when other HDMI devices - ROKU, a computer, or a blu-ray player are connected to it. The TV's HDMI input's automatic connection and identification functions work perfectly with all other devices. The HDMI cable is fairly new - premium quality and it works perfectly when using it to connect other HDMI devices.
I also tried getting a signal with the HDD drive running - playing an HD recorded title, also tried a dvd playing a movie - still no signal at all is being sent. All of the MDR535 HDMI functions appear to be dead.
Thank you for any helpful replies to this problem. Sincerely, Dennis
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post #27967 of 27986 Old 06-12-2019, 02:36 PM
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Dennis, not sure if you've seen the OP to this thread but here's a link to the section on HDMI, note the author Wajo doesn't seem to like HDMI and really suggests using anything but
https://www.avsforum.com/forum/106-d...l#post12298409
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post #27968 of 27986 Old 06-13-2019, 10:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DENNIS NOVAK View Post
Hello,
Is there possibly an answer to this problem: I purchased a Magnavox MDR535H new, when it first came out. I've always used only the component terminal connections to connect it to my Panasonic Viera plasma TV (2011 model.) I recently thought I'd try out the HDMI connection to see if it produced a better picture than the component connection. I was not able to get any signal to output from the HDMI connection to the Panasonic TV.
I did try a reset by shutting off both the TV and the MDR535H, - unplugging them from AC power, connecting and reconnecting HDMI cables etc.
There is no functionality at all in any of the MDR535H HDMI settings, adjustments etc. There is no signal output at all from the HDMI connection to the TV. The TV just displays: "No Signal"
...
Thank you for any helpful replies to this problem. Sincerely, Dennis

It sounds like you've tried all possible combinations of swapping out devices and cables, and I doubt this is it, but did you try it WITHOUT the component connection? Could it be that if there are multiple connections, it's only sending the signal through one? And I'm assuming you double-checked that the HDMI was fully connected on both ends...

I also have a 500-series (515, I think?) and I recently got a new tv that had an HDMI connection available. I switched to using that, and I don't recall having an issue with the HDMI signal (after I got all the cables connected to what I thought they were connected to ) I do notice that almost every time I go to use the Magnavox, it's defaulted back to the lowest HDMI setting, and I have to cycle through with the button on the remote to get the best one. I'm not sure if that's how it works for everyone, or if there's something going on with either the tv or the Mag. I tried all possibilities on the CEC/funlink settings - no difference.

So maybe if there's still anyone out there with a similar setup, they can shed some light for both of us.
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post #27969 of 27986 Old 06-14-2019, 10:00 AM
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Originally Posted by TV123 View Post
It sounds like you've tried all possible combinations of swapping out devices and cables, and I doubt this is it, but did you try it WITHOUT the component connection? Could it be that if there are multiple connections, it's only sending the signal through one? And I'm assuming you double-checked that the HDMI was fully connected on both ends...

I also have a 500-series (515, I think?) and I recently got a new tv that had an HDMI connection available. I switched to using that, and I don't recall having an issue with the HDMI signal (after I got all the cables connected to what I thought they were connected to ) I do notice that almost every time I go to use the Magnavox, it's defaulted back to the lowest HDMI setting, and I have to cycle through with the button on the remote to get the best one. I'm not sure if that's how it works for everyone, or if there's something going on with either the tv or the Mag. I tried all possibilities on the CEC/funlink settings - no difference.

So maybe if there's still anyone out there with a similar setup, they can shed some light for both of us.
Hello TV123,
Thank you for your reply.
Yes, I had also tried to get the HDMI function to work, by connecting only the MDR535H's HDMI output to the TV. It made no difference. Everything remained as posted originally - no signal output was ever detected by the TV and the HDMI button was still dead. I noticed upon reading a previous post # 11 from 7558037 Guest, that you can have more than one output connected to the same TV and the Magnavox units will still work normally. Essentially, the HDMI functions on my unit are all dead. It could be a factory defect, as I never tried to setup or use the HDMI feature until now. I would like to have been able to use the MDR535H's HDMI because my vision is poor. I do notice the picture quality difference when using the MDR535H's "component" output for playback, vs the HD picture quality of other (HDMI) connected devices that I have, such as my 1080i ROKU player and my BluRay player. Please forgive things I might be doing wrong when posting. I'm 68 years old, and I've never posted to a forum like this for help before.
Thank you all for your kind and helpful replies,
Sincerely,
Dennis
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post #27970 of 27986 Old 06-14-2019, 10:37 AM
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I agree that your HDMI output is dead, likely for quite some time if not since new. Any new electronic device should be fully tested within the free return period to avoid surprises such as this.

There is a slim possibility that there is a solution. These units were manufacturers using electrolytic capacitors marginally spec'd to task. If any of them outright failed, any kind of failure is a possible result. I've had cap failures in two of my 5 units. I replaced the bad ones myself. Visit badcaps.net to learn how to recognize obvious failures and/or perform self repairs. Of my 5, all are currently fully functional except for the DVD drive in my oldest, which sounds like a mechanical failure (clunking continuously if any disc is inserted).

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post #27971 of 27986 Old 06-14-2019, 12:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DENNIS NOVAK View Post
Hello TV123,
Thank you for your reply.
Yes, I had also tried to get the HDMI function to work, by connecting only the MDR535H's HDMI output to the TV. It made no difference. Everything remained as posted originally - no signal output was ever detected by the TV and the HDMI button was still dead. I noticed upon reading a previous post # 11 from 7558037 Guest, that you can have more than one output connected to the same TV and the Magnavox units will still work normally. Essentially, the HDMI functions on my unit are all dead. It could be a factory defect, as I never tried to setup or use the HDMI feature until now. I would like to have been able to use the MDR535H's HDMI because my vision is poor. I do notice the picture quality difference when using the MDR535H's "component" output for playback, vs the HD picture quality of other (HDMI) connected devices that I have, such as my 1080i ROKU player and my BluRay player. Please forgive things I might be doing wrong when posting. I'm 68 years old, and I've never posted to a forum like this for help before.
Thank you all for your kind and helpful replies,
Sincerely,
Dennis
The only other thing I can think of to verify that the HDMI output is indeed dead - do you have access to another tv with an HDMI input? Maybe a friend or neighbor has a small one they could bring over? If you hook that up to the Magnavox and you do get a signal, that would tell you the Mag is not the issue (or not the whole issue).


Having said that, I'm not sure you'll see too big a difference between the component and HDMI connections anyway. The Mag only records in standard def, so even with the best connection to the tv, it isn't going to compare to high def like you're seeing from the BluRay player.
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post #27972 of 27986 Old 06-16-2019, 12:38 PM
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Originally Posted by TV123 View Post
The only other thing I can think of to verify that the HDMI output is indeed dead - do you have access to another tv with an HDMI input? Maybe a friend or neighbor has a small one they could bring over? If you hook that up to the Magnavox and you do get a signal, that would tell you the Mag is not the issue (or not the whole issue).


Having said that, I'm not sure you'll see too big a difference between the component and HDMI connections anyway. The Mag only records in standard def, so even with the best connection to the tv, it isn't going to compare to high def like you're seeing from the BluRay player.
Hello TV123,
Thank you very much for your reply. I double checked the owner's manual and you are 100% correct. This machine does not record in HD - it downgrades all input signal sources to standard definition, 480i. I was completely mistaken when I originally read (misread) the manual. I really appreciate your pointing this out for me. I can now continue using the machine's component hookup without feeling that I'm missing out on HD quality playback.
My sincere thanks to you and to everyone who offered suggestions and solutions. This is a wonderful and unique forum. I will look to it in the future for answers to other electronic problems.
Sincerely,
Dennis
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post #27973 of 27986 Old 07-11-2019, 10:59 PM
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Magnavox H2080MW8 was just verified to work under IsoBuster, recordings readable by their original Title and dates that appear in the Title Lister of the recorder.

They export from the recorder over a USB 2.0 and USB 3.0 hdd bridge to a Windows PC running XP, W7, W10 and MacOS or Linux.

That covers just about all of the Mag recorders in the titles of this thread, except for the 2160A (but the 2160 "no A" has been verified to work).

I've had a request to obtain and test a Philips HDR 3500, and have one on the way.. but after that, the well runs dry. All of the Toshiba DVRs, all of the Pioneer DRVs and all of the Panasonic DVRs that were sold in North America have been tested. I have not personally tested any of the Sony DVRs but reports from Europe are that the Sony models based on the Pioneers work just like the Pioneers when it comes to reading their hard drives in a PC.

Its been a long time since I bothered testing the DVD burners in any of these models.. not needing "blank" media or a chunk of time to edit the video and fit it to disc has been nice.

Since Verbatim DVD media is basically retired.. or being re-imagined by the new owners. I've been thinking since the files are known to be exportable now to a PC at the highest speed of the drive.

Maybe its best to leave the video on the hard drives and export a recording list with the hard drive serial number.. and collect those like a searchable catalog on your PC. I think at this point I've a procedure worked out to replace every hard drive in every model with a different one.. not Upgrade mind you to larger capacity.. thats a different task many other people have tackled.. but just swap out and return the recorder to normal use.

The hard drive serial number is already printed on the outside of the "video" drive and sometimes even barcoded. Then when you need a particular recording.. you can quickly search which drive its on in your catalog, and pull the drive off the shelf, then use IsoBuster to export it to your PC.

Storing big videos files on the same hard drive as PC data tends to take up a lot of space and requires on the spot decision making.. its much easier to just save everything and treat a DVD recorder hard drive like a Big VHS tape cassette. Its not archival quality.. but we don't archive everything really.. I mean 20 year old VHS tapes? We get around to it when we can.

Blue boxes for video drives, Red boxes for data drives?

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post #27974 of 27986 Old 07-13-2019, 06:07 PM
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A note on Cataloging "video drives" with IsoBuster 4.4

The author of IsoBuster informed me its (already) a feature in the product. There is a rich command line reporting language built in. It can be automated by script or accessed by using the GUI interface to collect and export a list of the the drive and its contents.

There is not a tutorial on how to do this (yet) but it could be written. Several webpages describing the command language and how to use use it are already online.

.. scooped again.

IsoBuster has been developed for a very long time, since before DVD recorders even existed, so it has accumulated many features. Its not just a one trick tool.

I've used it for exploring hard drives, making raw disk images of hard drives, and restoring those images to different drives, or extracting and replacing specific sectors from a hard drive. It understands many file systems that people tend to collect different "device drivers" to try and understand. But IsoBuster simply understands hundreds by itself without a separate device driver.

It uses windows, but it does not depend on the file system support built into Windows. It looks at hard drives as a bit bucket and can inspect them as 2K, 512 or many other types of bytes per sector low level formats.

IsoBuster can also created image level backups of hard drives and then open those raw disk images as if they were physical devices and treats them exactly the same. And these are "real" raw disk images, not some proprietary compressed format. Other tools that use raw disk images can use them too.. so its infinitely flexible in that if you make images with it and then need to use a specific inspection tool for forensics or other reasons.. there is nothing in your way to stop you.

And it does have forensic features I do not understand compliant with many other agencies.. its simply way over provisioned for simple DVD recorder file extraction.
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post #27975 of 27986 Old 08-24-2019, 06:59 AM
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Exclamation Mayday!! My Magnavox MDR535H won't burn DVDs

Lately I've had occasional problems burning DVDs. I would try to start a burn and get an error message. Popping the DVD out and in would fix it. The problem has been progressively happening more often. But now it won't burn at all. I tried a couple of different (new) DVDs, but no joy.

I get these messages:

E 3 54043e02
E 4 54043e02

Hubster is going to open the box and see if he can clean out any dust or dog hair or dead insects that might be lurking in the mechanisms. If that doesn't help, should we try to replace the DVD drive?

FWIW, I only use Verbatim AZO +R media. If there's something better, I'd like to know.

Thanks for any suggestions. I'm in a heightened state of panic.
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post #27976 of 27986 Old 08-24-2019, 08:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mallo View Post
Lately I've had occasional problems burning DVDs. I would try to start a burn and get an error message. Popping the DVD out and in would fix it. The problem has been progressively happening more often. But now it won't burn at all. I tried a couple of different (new) DVDs, but no joy.

I get these messages:

E 3 54043e02
E 4 54043e02

Hubster is going to open the box and see if he can clean out any dust or dog hair or dead insects that might be lurking in the mechanisms. If that doesn't help, should we try to replace the DVD drive?

FWIW, I only use Verbatim AZO +R media. If there's something better, I'd like to know.

Thanks for any suggestions. I'm in a heightened state of panic.
Try a different brand of new DVDs.
That always seems to work for me...

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post #27977 of 27986 Old 08-24-2019, 08:55 AM
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Try a different brand of new DVDs.
That always seems to work for me...
Thanks for your response.

The hubster opened up the Maggie and cleaned it up a bit. We keep the Maggie in a cabinet with a glass door, and there was surprisingly little dust and dog hair in it. Guess that glass door does its job. Just burned a DVD with no probs.

Anyway, if the problem crops up again, I'll try another brand of DVDs. Do unused DVDs go bad? I've got a bunch of unopened packs that I bought many years ago. I think I still have some old ones made in Japan (Sony, I think).
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post #27978 of 27986 Old 08-24-2019, 11:00 AM
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Thanks for your response.

The hubster opened up the Maggie and cleaned it up a bit. We keep the Maggie in a cabinet with a glass door, and there was surprisingly little dust and dog hair in it. Guess that glass door does its job. Just burned a DVD with no probs.

Anyway, if the problem crops up again, I'll try another brand of DVDs. Do unused DVDs go bad? I've got a bunch of unopened packs that I bought many years ago. I think I still have some old ones made in Japan (Sony, I think).
It really depends on the DVD drive's alignment.
I had been using HP's CD-RW discs for a while, but I believe I had to format them in the Magnavox's DVR first.

I honestly haven't archived shows onto DVDs in a while though because most shows are available in streaming format now...

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post #27979 of 27986 Old 08-24-2019, 07:24 PM
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DVD-R based on organic dye essentially never stops oxidizing.. its simply a matter of when they can no longer be burned, or the media burned on them can no longer be read. Metal-AZO is "better" at resisting oxidation but its reflective layer also can go bad.. so eventually it all goes bad sitting on a shelf. It may be as long as 50 years in a cool dark place, or as little as 4 years on a window sill under sunlight.

Mag DVD recorders generally don't care about their media type like the older recorders, but their firmware can be a little wonky and if the drive gets full or too many edits occur on the recordings on the drives.. that can lead to different types of failure or inability to "finalize". Its best to finalize a recording as soon as you can fill the disc or have everything on it you want to burn to that single disc.

They can also get dirty.. as you discovered. And the DVD burners eventually fail.

The Mag 535 is one of the "tested" DVD recorder with IsoBuster, if the DVD burner fails, the hard drive in the Mag 535 can be taken out and connected through an IDE or SATA to USB adapter to a PC and the recordings "copied" off the DVD recorder hard drive and direct to a folder on the PC. As long as you do not allow windows to initialize or "write" to the DVD recorder hard drive while its connected to the PC. It can generally be put back into the DVD recorder and continue to be used normally.

IsoBuster is a licensed program, but runs in demo mode until a license is used to activate the Copy feature. But it will let you check to see if there are any recordings it can see on the DVD recorder before purchase.

Its also a data recovery program.. so even if the DVD recorder thinks the hard drive is corrupt or unreadable, IsoBuster may still see the recordings and let you copy them off. IsoBuster knows nothing about the firmware of a DVD recorder and uses its own methods to read the recordings off the hard drive.
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post #27980 of 27986 Old 08-25-2019, 07:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jwillis84 View Post
DVD-R based on organic dye essentially never stops oxidizing.. its simply a matter of when they can no longer be burned, or the media burned on them can no longer be read. Metal-AZO is "better" at resisting oxidation but its reflective layer also can go bad.. so eventually it all goes bad sitting on a shelf. It may be as long as 50 years in a cool dark place, or as little as 4 years on a window sill under sunlight.

Mag DVD recorders generally don't care about their media type like the older recorders, but their firmware can be a little wonky and if the drive gets full or too many edits occur on the recordings on the drives.. that can lead to different types of failure or inability to "finalize". Its best to finalize a recording as soon as you can fill the disc or have everything on it you want to burn to that single disc.

They can also get dirty.. as you discovered. And the DVD burners eventually fail.

The Mag 535 is one of the "tested" DVD recorder with IsoBuster, if the DVD burner fails, the hard drive in the Mag 535 can be taken out and connected through an IDE or SATA to USB adapter to a PC and the recordings "copied" off the DVD recorder hard drive and direct to a folder on the PC. As long as you do not allow windows to initialize or "write" to the DVD recorder hard drive while its connected to the PC. It can generally be put back into the DVD recorder and continue to be used normally.

IsoBuster is a licensed program, but runs in demo mode until a license is used to activate the Copy feature. But it will let you check to see if there are any recordings it can see on the DVD recorder before purchase.

Its also a data recovery program.. so even if the DVD recorder thinks the hard drive is corrupt or unreadable, IsoBuster may still see the recordings and let you copy them off. IsoBuster knows nothing about the firmware of a DVD recorder and uses its own methods to read the recordings off the hard drive.
I did not know that reflective media was so sensitive ...
I always try to keep mine in the original spindle inside my computer cabinet.

I've have to check out ISOBuster too...

Thanks for the info!

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post #27981 of 27986 Old 08-26-2019, 11:12 AM
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I use only the Taiyo Yuden (JVC joint venture, made in Japan only) brand of DVD +R @ 8X. They are very high quality-controlled, archival quality, and if properly stored (22° C & dark & dry) are reputed to last 100 years. Use no higher speed than 8X for minimum/no write errors. Make sure to buy only "Made in Japan" ones, as JVC also makes some crappy ones elsewhere. Also, do NOT buy the Taiyo Yuden "ValueLine" discs- they are not as good!

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post #27982 of 27986 Old 09-01-2019, 06:29 AM
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I use only the Taiyo Yuden (JVC joint venture, made in Japan only) brand of DVD +R @ 8X. They are very high quality-controlled, archival quality, and if properly stored (22° C & dark & dry) are reputed to last 100 years. Use no higher speed than 8X for minimum/no write errors. Make sure to buy only "Made in Japan" ones, as JVC also makes some crappy ones elsewhere. Also, do NOT buy the Taiyo Yuden "ValueLine" discs- they are not as good!

http://rima.com/TYFAQ.html
Do you have a link to the +R DVDs? I'm only finding the -R.
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post #27983 of 27986 Old 09-01-2019, 07:21 AM
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Do you have a link to the +R DVDs? I'm only finding the -R.
Unfortunately, no. I last bought them several years ago from Supermediastore, which has become Linkyo, and sells only their own branded DVDs, made in Taiwan.

What I bought was: Taiyo-Yuden silver thermal, 8x dvd, +R, 100 pack, for about $36...

Apparently, the Taiyo Yuden technology was acquired by CMC in 2015:
https://www.mediasupply.com/taiyo.html (scroll down to read their explanation).
I have no idea if they're as good, but I did not see any +R format either. And they mostly seem to be 16x.

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post #27984 of 27986 Old 09-26-2019, 01:39 PM
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Transfer / clone from smaller drive to larger drive Philips 3575H/37?

Is it possible with the Philips 3575H/37 to clone the original 160 GB hard drive to a larger hard drive via one of those drive cloning programs that copy data sector by sector ignoring the file system and then expand the partition using a program like GParted for Linux without setting a file system or formatting the larger drive that I'm upgrading to? I'm thinking of buying a 250 GB PATA Hard Drive or maybe a 320 SATA drive if it's possible to install one in the Philips 3575H/37 that is PATA and not SATA but maybe with an adapter it would work unless there is some kind of power consumption requirement issue?


Thanks
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post #27985 of 27986 Old 09-26-2019, 01:58 PM
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Is it possible with the Philips 3575H/37 to clone the original 160 GB hard drive to a larger hard drive via one of those drive cloning programs that copy data sector by sector ignoring the file system and then expand the partition using a program like GParted for Linux without setting a file system or formatting the larger drive that I'm upgrading to? I'm thinking of buying a 250 GB PATA Hard Drive or maybe a 320 SATA drive if it's possible to install one in the Philips 3575H/37 that is PATA and not SATA but maybe with an adapter it would work unless there is some kind of power consumption requirement issue?


Thanks

You can install up to a 500GB HDD into the 3575. If it's a PATA drive no adapter is required. If it's a SATA drive then you would need a PATA to SATA adapter. Once installed you would have to format the drive using the skip code 0,7,9. The drive that you have now is formatted with the Linux operating system and you need someone well versed in Linux to copy what you have now to the new drive.
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post #27986 of 27986 Old 09-26-2019, 02:13 PM
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These machines don't have partitions, or filesystems that any PC would be able to understand. There's a thread here I've used several times to replace a 160G or 320G disk with a 500G. The sector "cloning" process is not straightforward, because most of the old drive's content needs to be shifted up disk a bit to provide larger space for addressing the recordings. The instructions for sector editing require extreme care to enable use of all the extra space. A 500G disk would work as is, but you'd have no more space available without the shift and edit.

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